F1 2011 Logitech G27 settings

F1 2011 The Game (Codemasters)
Hey all,
After messing around with the steering wheel settings for about 6 hours I still haven't found a comfortable set-up.
Currently I'm using 330 degrees in the profiler and 0% in all settings in-game (FFB is 50-70-100)
The on screen wheel matches my movements great but I cant help feeling its still not dialled in.
In slow corners it seems ok but in faster ones and on the straights my car is all over the place with oversteer. Id like a little more resistance from the wheel at higher speeds tbh.
Anyone else found a decent set-up yet?
Cheers.
 
Saturation is just a multiplier of the wheel profiler settings, therefore setting something like 320 in the logitech profiler and 0 saturation in game will be more or less the same as choosing 900 degrees in the profiler and setting the saturation to 75.

I prefer to keep my profiler set to 900 degrees and just alter the saturation in game.
 
@ Eifion Evans Setting the in game saturation to 0 will only work if you set the logitech profiler to around 200-300 degrees

setting the rotation to the default 900 makes the car impossible to steer at 0 saturation, you need like 65 to make it match on screen.

@ Christopher Woods Try playing with the dead zone and saturation sliders, the dead zone (somewhat obviously) creates a percentage of the pedal movement that is not registered. the saturation will decrease the sensitivity of the registered movement, making it less sensitive (supposedly) I haven't ever messed with these settings as I found that it felt alright to begin with, but that's why they're there, different strokes xD

My wheel is only set to 200 rotation though. Even then I have to set ingame saturation to about 50% or the wheel feels totally unresponsive and will not make turns.
 
These are the best settings for G27.

Profiler..
rotation 315
strength 107%
all other settings 0 and centering spring unchecked.

(the 107% strength setting was found be an iRacing member to be the perfect setting to reduce the light feeling at the center in logitech wheels. Any higher and you get unwanted oscillation, any lower and you get lightness at the center.)

(download this file to fix awful vibration error on wheel.. http://www.racedepartment.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=5708
And place it in the forcefeedback directory in the game install directory.)

Ingame..
environment 20%
force strength 80% (higher and you loose fidelity)
weight 30%

set controller type to g27 and leave all advanced controls like linearity and saturation as they are at 0
If you need to remap the dpad controls from the shifter to the remaining red buttons on the wheel it will set profile to custom, so then you need to put override type to steering wheel.

(setting linearity and saturation to anything higher than 0 will ruin setup. They are more designed for pads or if you can't change wheel rotation. All wheels should be setup to be linear, and 0 gives linearity in f1 2011.)

To prevent lockup of brakes, set brake balance in car to 52% forward.
After doing extensive testing I find these to be the perfect settings.

Hope this helps.
 
I never understand why people put on any environmental effects at all. It adds 'noise' to the steering, making it harder to feel what's really going on imo.
Same goes for force feedback strength. I tested some of those setups around here and it feels like you're playing a truck simulator! I like my steering wheel to be light and responsive, not like a brick you have to pull left/right to get around the track =)
 
My wheel is only set to 200 rotation though. Even then I have to set ingame saturation to about 50% or the wheel feels totally unresponsive and will not make turns.

That sounds like you have linearity set higher than 0. If you do you will have to balance it out with saturation.
Linearity makes it less responsive, saturation makes it more. So it's like adding too much salt to something , then having to add sugar to balance it out, but you make it too sweet so you add more salt :D

Best to leave all at 0 and set rotation to 315. This solves the issue.
 
I never understand why people put on any environmental effects at all. It adds 'noise' to the steering, making it harder to feel what's really going on imo.
Same goes for force feedback strength. I tested some of those setups around here and it feels like you're playing a truck simulator! I like my steering wheel to be light and responsive, not like a brick you have to pull left/right to get around the track =)

There is an error in the default environment which adds unwanted noise and makes it unusable. The file I linked above fixes this so you can set environment to 20% which gives you rumble from the curbs and a few other useful feedbacks.
The wheel weight makes it heavy, not feedback really.
I think that feels light enough.F1 cars don't have power steering so they won't be that light to steer :)
Trucks will probably be lighter as they have lots of power assist steering :)
 
These are the best settings for G27.

Profiler..
rotation 315
strength 107%
all other settings 0 and centering spring unchecked.

(the 107% strength setting was found be an iRacing member to be the perfect setting to reduce the light feeling at the center in logitech wheels. Any higher and you get unwanted oscillation, any lower and you get lightness at the center.)

(download this file to fix awful vibration error on wheel.. http://www.racedepartment.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=5708
And place it in the forcefeedback directory in the game install directory.)

Ingame..
environment 20%
force strength 80% (higher and you loose fidelity)
weight 30%

set controller type to g27 and leave all advanced controls like linearity and saturation as they are at 0
If you need to remap the dpad controls from the shifter to the remaining red buttons on the wheel it will set profile to custom, so then you need to put override type to steering wheel.

(setting linearity and saturation to anything higher than 0 will ruin setup. They are more designed for pads or if you can't change wheel rotation. All wheels should be setup to be linear, and 0 gives linearity in f1 2011.)

This is awesome! That spot in the middle with no resistance is finally gone! I made a couple of changes. I know 315 rotation gives perfect 1:1 with you and the ingame steering wheel, but I wasn't used to having to turn the wheel that far after 2010, so I use 230. Also, I have my in game wheel strength at 10% because even that is a bit heavier than I'm used to, and I think my arms would get tired.
 
These are the best settings for G27.

Profiler..
rotation 315
strength 107%
all other settings 0 and centering spring unchecked.

(the 107% strength setting was found be an iRacing member to be the perfect setting to reduce the light feeling at the center in logitech wheels. Any higher and you get unwanted oscillation, any lower and you get lightness at the center.)

(download this file to fix awful vibration error on wheel.. http://www.racedepartment.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=5708
And place it in the forcefeedback directory in the game install directory.)

Ingame..
environment 20%
force strength 80% (higher and you loose fidelity)
weight 30%

set controller type to g27 and leave all advanced controls like linearity and saturation as they are at 0
If you need to remap the dpad controls from the shifter to the remaining red buttons on the wheel it will set profile to custom, so then you need to put override type to steering wheel.

(setting linearity and saturation to anything higher than 0 will ruin setup. They are more designed for pads or if you can't change wheel rotation. All wheels should be setup to be linear, and 0 gives linearity in f1 2011.)

To prevent lockup of brakes, set brake balance in car to 52% forward.
After doing extensive testing I find these to be the perfect settings.

Hope this helps.

Thats a pretty good setup, I tried this one and i liked it but i have a few questions if not a problem..

1. So you set 315 degrees, in 2010 I used 270 'cause it's the realistic F1 wheels turn. And till now in 2011 I used it too, so in the game the 1:1 isn't 270 but 315 degrees?

2. When I use this setup and i turn my wheel all the way to 315 degrees either on the left or right side, i don't know how I exactly could say it, but the wheel kind of feels to pop in place, and when I start to straighten the wheel from that position it feels like it pops out. Is that normal? Anybody else experiencing this? For example when in the profiler I enable spring centering in 100% it doesn't happen, but it seems the spring centering kills the environmental effects...

3. In the logitech profiler what do we get if the spring effect strenght and the damper effect strenght is set to 0%?

Thanks for the answers in advance!
Cheers!
 
Ok, I found it at nogripracing, an explanation of the profiler settings by Sobol..
Maybe it will help us to fine tune our settings, or give an idea how to start setting up our wheel...

When "Overall FFB Strength" is set to 100% and is the only FFB parameter enabled:
a) It provides curbs vibrations, obstacle impact pull, gear changing pull, uneven surface shake.
b) Provide Tire grip:
- When you skid, slide, drift and then there is no grip on the tires. You will get no heaviness, resistance or pulling force from the wheel.
- When you drive on straight, have tire grip and decide to pull wheel into left or right you will feel resistance, counter steering will have no resistance.

Adding "Damper Effect Strength", 100%:
a) It provides heaviness on the wheel when you counter steer it.
This should be same as "Overall FFB Strength" for soft feeling of wheel. Easy on hands, easy for drifting.
The real word simulation setting would be about 90% stronger than "Overall FFB strength".

Adding "Spring Effect Strength":
a) According to Logitech it does following: "Spring forces are the effect of the wheel/stick being pulled into a certain direction by the game/software.
The farther that you move the handle away from the direction that the force is pulling in, the stronger the force effect will get."
In case it's there I set it to equal to "Overall FFB Strength".

Adding "Enable Centering Strength":
a) Set it to 100%. When car is parked, you pull the wheel and it comes back to center quick and produce resistance if you're trying to stop it.
Set it to 0%. Pull the wheel either side, it will not try to come back.
b) This one is very important for driving, especially on the corners when you're in the drift and trying to counter steer.
If it is set too strong it will kill your precision and feeling of the grip on the wheel, also tire your hands on windy tracks.
I wouldn't set it to more than 80% of "Overall FFB Strength".

 
They way I understand this is that the values in the profiler are overrides, as in forcing vsync on a graphics card.
Seeing as games have all their own settings for these values it's best to set all to 0 and tick allow game to change settings.
That way the game will have full control to set anything.
 
Using the profiler to add steering effects is like running your music through a sound equaliser/processor adding extra bass, treble etc. Sure it adds more punch, but these additions can hide the subtleties of the original production. :D
 
And do you get this strange feel when turning the wheel fully to left and right? Like the wheel is heavy till halfway and then reaching the full rotation degree it gets light and the wheel kind of pops in place... Why is that?
 
Any idea how to solve the lost of feel midcorner in my steering wheel.
For example in Parabolica i turn in. All good but when i turn abit more the wheel gets very light. Very annoying.

Yeah, I do have the same problem... Any solution to this? I get this when in the g27 profiler the spring centering is turned off, but when it's on i don't have that problem, but then the environmental effects don't work properly...
 

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