Fanatec 2.5?

[Inouk]

I just got a 2.5, V3 pedals, with Porsche wheel. Out of box it's way to strong. What setup would you suggest I try, and any tips on the setup?

 

[Brandon Wright]

First, on your wheel settings turn your DPR and SPR settings to 0/off. I think the DRI setting is different on the 2.5 than my V2 but I believe you want to be in the middle of the available options to get unassisted rotation (adjust to taste), someone please correct me if I'm wrong on this one. SEN should be set to Auto so the game can set your wheel rotation based on what the car has in real life. I've always heard it's best to keep your FF at 100 and lower the in-game gain if it's too heavy/strong. You can also try turning the FOR down a bit but I generally leave that at 100 and do my adjustments in game.

In AC you adjust the strength with the gain slider and then use the road/slip/curb sliders if you want to amplify those individual feelings a bit, so if it's too strong try turning the gain down. And don't forget you can adjust the FFB of each car by using the +/- keys on the number pad when you're on track.

 

[Emery]

My v2 wheel settings for AC:
SEN = AUT
FF = 100
LIN = OFF
DEA = OFF
DRI = OFF
FOR = 40 (This was the key setting that kept me from enjoying AC FFB until I got it right, some people like 30 better and that might be more appropriate for v2.5 wheels)
SPR = OFF (unneeded artificial effect if turned on in most sims)
DPR = OFF (unneeded artificial effect if turned on in most sims)

In-game, use the FFB tool to set in-game force and avoid clipping. Remember clipping occurs before the wheel sees the signal, so that automatic tool is very helpful.

 

[TheFlying5]

Hi Inouk,
I have a V2.5 too. I believe from the wheel setup from the V2 to the V2.5 differs in a few things (also depends on the firmware your are on)

My settings are:
SEN = AUT
FF = 100
SHO= 100
ABS= 50
DRI= -05 (the biggest difference from a V2 setup. Here -05 its similar to 0 in a V2)
FOR = 100
SPR = OFF
DPR = OFF

In game I only set the gain to 65, the rest just as it comes as default

I also agree with having the FFB tool makes a big difference. Especially when you drive different cars often. And read the manual because there are really good explanations on how every setting affects the force feedback feeling of the wheel.

 

[Inouk]

Thanks, this will help big time.
I'm faster with the new wheel on just stock setup.
I can't wait to try your settings.
The cars are alive, and I can do things that I could never do with my G25.

 

[jkoppenhaver]

Hi Inouk,
I have a V2.5 too. I believe from the wheel setup from the V2 to the V2.5 differs in a few things (also depends on the firmware your are on)

My settings are:
SEN = AUT
FF = 100
SHO= 100
ABS= 50
DRI= -05 (the biggest difference from a V2 setup. Here -05 its similar to 0 in a V2)
FOR = 100
SPR = OFF
DPR = OFF

In game I only set the gain to 65, the rest just as it comes as default

I also agree with having the FFB tool makes a big difference. Especially when you drive different cars often. And read the manual because there are really good explanations on how every setting affects the force feedback feeling of the wheel.

 

[jkoppenhaver]

Hate to show my ignorance, but just where are you putting the settings you mention above? Also, what FFB tool are you using.
Thanks for your help.

 

[Inouk]

Hate to show my ignorance, but just where are you putting the settings you mention above? Also, what FFB tool are you using.
Thanks for your help.

The V2.5 has input on the wheel to set FFB in game and it's way cool.
The FFB tool http://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/ffbclip-app.7910/

 

[Inouk]

Thanks guys. I think I have a real nice setup with your help.
Having this wheel feels kind of like cheating.

 

[TheFlying5]

Hate to show my ignorance

No worries jkoppenhaver, we all started not knowing, good thing that you are asking and trying to improve

Haha I felt the same, you get quicker but more importantly, more consistent...
Good luck with it!

 

[Inouk]

My lights and shaker on the pedals work out of the box after I installed the drivers from Fanatec. Do I need Fanaleds for any reason?

 

[Emery]

My lights and shaker on the pedals work out of the box after I installed the drivers from Fanatec. Do I need Fanaleds for any reason?

Fanaleds offers more ways to configure the LEDs and supports other games.

 

[Inouk]

Fanaleds offers more ways to configure the LEDs and supports other games.

Ok. Thanks.

 

[Mascot]

First, on your wheel settings turn your DPR and SPR settings to 0/off. I think the DRI setting is different on the 2.5 than my V2 but I believe you want to be in the middle of the available options to get unassisted rotation (adjust to taste), someone please correct me if I'm wrong on this one. SEN should be set to Auto so the game can set your wheel rotation based on what the car has in real life. I've always heard it's best to keep your FF at 100 and lower the in-game gain if it's too heavy/strong. You can also try turning the FOR down a bit but I generally leave that at 100 and do my adjustments in game.

In AC you adjust the strength with the gain slider and then use the road/slip/curb sliders if you want to amplify those individual feelings a bit, so if it's too strong try turning the gain down. And don't forget you can adjust the FFB of each car by using the +/- keys on the number pad when you're on track.

Question for v2.5 owners: how do you eliminate wheel oscillation when driving straight? My wheel is constantly see-sawing left and right with considerable force on the straights in Assetto Corsa.
Thanks!

 

[Tberg]

You guys might wanna try DPR back to 50-100%, as it only works when the car is standing still and driving under 3km/h, simulating some weight. There's no damping in AC while driving.

 

[RasmusP]

Question for v2.5 owners: how do you eliminate wheel oscillation when driving straight? My wheel is constantly see-sawing left and right with considerable force on the straights in Assetto Corsa.
Thanks!

The simplest way would be to lower minimum force. If you already have that at 0% you need to reduce the force feedback in general.
If you don't want that, you need a look up table (lut) that sits between the game and the wheel driver and works like this:
X% game output - > Y% wheel input.
The shaking happens due to too high forces at the first few degree of your wheel. Normally it shouldn't happen with 0% minimum force, 100% in assetto corsa and 100% (default) in the wheel driver.
Normally everything is coded and leveled to not clip or shake or do anything "bad" with these settings.

 

[Mascot]

The simplest way would be to lower minimum force. If you already have that at 0% you need to reduce the force feedback in general.
If you don't want that, you need a look up table (lut) that sits between the game and the wheel driver and works like this:
X% game output - > Y% wheel input.
The shaking happens due to too high forces at the first few degree of your wheel. Normally it shouldn't happen with 0% minimum force, 100% in assetto corsa and 100% (default) in the wheel driver.
Normally everything is coded and leveled to not clip or shake or do anything "bad" with these settings.

Thanks - I'll check all of that and keep experimenting.
I'd really appreciate it if people could share ALL of their on-wheel and in-game (Assetto) settings. I'm still a little lost as to what's subjectively 'best' to give me a good starting point.

 

[Tberg]

Thanks - I'll check all of that and keep experimenting.
I'd really appreciate it if people could share ALL of their on-wheel and in-game (Assetto) settings. I'm still a little lost as to what's subjectively 'best' to give me a good starting point.

As @TheFlying5 said, check this setting:
DRI= -05 (the biggest difference from a V2 setup. Here -05 its similar to 0 in a V2)

If you have DRI more or less activated, the forces will make the selfaligning torque go nuts and oscillate on straigths. My V2 is setup so if I jerk the wheel left or right quickly and let go again, while going straight, the wheel settles really quick by itself and the car keeps going straight.

 

[Mascot]

As @TheFlying5 said, check this setting:
DRI= -05 (the biggest difference from a V2 setup. Here -05 its similar to 0 in a V2)

If you have DRI more or less activated, the forces will make the selfaligning torque go nuts and oscillate on straigths. My V2 is setup so if I jerk the wheel left or right quickly and let go again, while going straight, the wheel settles really quick by itself and the car keeps going straight.

Many thanks. I'm hoping to get good strong FFB forces but eliminate most (not all - I like a little fight on the straights) of the oscillation. At the moment if I let go of the wheel on the straights then it'll see-saw violently and the car will soon spin off.

 

[Tberg]

Many thanks. I'm hoping to get good strong FFB forces but eliminate most (not all - I like a little fight on the straights) of the oscillation. At the moment if I let go of the wheel on the straights then it'll see-saw violently and the car will soon spin off.

Yeah, that is usually too high ffb gain, DRI setting to high or mix of both.
I don't recommend FFB-tool vs. proper gainsettings once and for all, but that's something you have to experiment with yourself