Tactile Immersion - General Discussion - Hardware & Software

[Deleted member 197115]

but GV can be enjoyed with or without Mr. Latte.

Rules:

• use your real name “first name”
• be polite
• respect others and their opinions
• willingness to share and help
• introduce yourself
• no personal attacks
• no offensive messages nor harassing others
• no commercial usage out of gained material/information

Sounds boring.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Sounds boring.

Sounds like we want people to get along and feel safe having conversations without worry that someone is going to jump all over them.

 

[Deleted member 1066209]

Yes

Interesting. I've never considered doing that, but will certainly try it sometime soon. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[Mr Latte]

Stop comparing motion vs tactile, it’s just not a topic.
Neither does both motion and tactile _best_ by them selves.

If you got the money and time, get both, and learn to use/setup properly. Thats the best solution.

The rest of the discussion is about personal compromises of economy, labour, level of competence, system complexity, and what you want to achieve in the end.

With respect, I think you will find I have constantly tried to put across the idea that more time is spent seeking how to "combine" the best of motion haptics in what it can offer (with different systems) also in conjunction with additional tactile. What seems very hard to get is any info from owners on how certain haptics their motion uses operate.

My discussion is nothing to do with Motion Vs Tactile.

In some scenarios, the "motion haptics" may have advantages over additional tactile. Mainly with its high energy output potential.

Even Mark before getting his delivered understands that it makes some sense to consider using the motion haptics for suspension and road surface response.

Yet as I tried to point out, the solutions do not necessarily need to be 1 or the other used. Why not both, who has seriously tried to do that? Why can you not have additional detail elements from advanced tactile, and operate with the motion haptics? Can we extend the stereo representation, can we bring even finer or more range to the detailing of curbs or road surfaces?

If we are to do that if it interests any motion owners. Then we need to determine how certain effects are operating via the motion and from that if we have a better understanding of the frequencies some of those effects use. Then it is feasible that something even dirt cheap like $25 exciters used with budget amps installed directly onto the seat could very much help to improve and increase the enjoyment or felt experience.

Why, because it's not just about having extra tactile installed, it's being able to create and use the controls and effects options that Simhub makes possible, that are not possible on motion haptics. Also sensations can go directly into the users body regions and these are independently controlled.

Very few people have experienced perhaps the potential of more advanced effects, including Boosted Media (it seems) but they give no indication of what effects they used on previous tactile they have tried and IIRC they have never even done a detailed look into tactile and Simhub.

 

[Beano iRacing]

Greetings from Melbourne/Down Undah.

I had 4 BK Advances sitting in their boxes for a number of years, and finally, a year ago, I fitted one under my pedal tray, the other under my seat mounting plate. Other two remained in the boxes, sigh.

For those of you on iRacing, you might have seen pix of my 8020 monstrosity. Anyway, been driving the two Advances with my old Emotiva UPA500. But, as we all know, once a GAS nerd, always one.

Grabbed a couple BK LFE’s from Pagnians /AUS last week, as well as a NX3000D to drive them. Redid the seat mounting plate and fitted the LFE in the middle, one Advance on each side, and did a quick dirty SimHub basic profile, and very simple dsp settings for the LFE.

Pretty happy with the level of vibration the big LFE produces, my butt is still tingling 30minutes after taking the Moocedes GT3 around Nordschleife /iRacing.

Will do proper profiling for the 3 shakers under the seat, but will most likely order 2x Nx1000D’s online, as sadly, DJCity in Dandenong /Melbourne had none in stock yesterday.

Will post a few updates along the way, as well as a few pix - more later.

ps: Funny enough, I thought the shakers are to close to each other, but doing a signal test, both from SimHub, as well as from my signal generator, one can very clearly distinguish left and right side effects. Probably 70/30 amplitude split.

Doesn’t mean much in practice, as one’s senses very quickly adjust to the differential, if one assign, let’s say, RPM, to the one Advance only.

Anyway, off to play, I suspect it will take me many hours to build the low freq effects. At some point, I will start mounting the small Dayton Exciters directly to my RCC seat, and use my Emotiva to drive them.

More later, cheers for good ideas in this thread.

Beano /Simucube 2 guy

edit: Hopefully Mr Helicopter sees my pm wrt Good Vibrations /Discord

 

[F1Aussie]

hence wasted tactile energy
Rotate shakers 45 degrees,
anchor pairs of diagonal corners in extrusions.
Two corners into extrusions > 4 corners in wood.

If those extrusions are not isolated from the chassis,
energy is wasted trying to excite the whole chassis.

Don't they need to be mounted flat and not angled? I assume you could not mount them flat against the the horizontal rails on your rig, meaning they would be at 90 degrees?

 

[OlaGB]

With respect, I think you will find I have constantly tried to put across the idea that more time is spent seeking how to "combine" the best of motion haptics in what it can offer (with different systems) also in conjunction with additional tactile. What seems very hard to get is any info from owners on how certain haptics their motion uses operate.

My discussion is nothing to do with Motion Vs Tactile.

In some scenarios, the "motion haptics" may have advantages over additional tactile. Mainly with its high energy output potential.

Even Mark before getting his delivered understands that it makes some sense to consider using the motion haptics for suspension and road surface response.

Yet as I tried to point out, the solutions do not necessarily need to be 1 or the other used. Why not both, who has seriously tried to do that? Why can you not have additional detail elements from advanced tactile, and operate with the motion haptics? Can we extend the stereo representation, can we bring even finer or more range to the detailing of curbs or road surfaces?

If we are to do that if it interests any motion owners. Then we need to determine how certain effects are operating via the motion and from that if we have a better understanding of the frequencies some of those effects use. Then it is feasible that something even dirt cheap like $25 exciters used with budget amps installed directly onto the seat could very much help to improve and increase the enjoyment or felt experience.

Why, because it's not just about having extra tactile installed, it's being able to create and use the controls and effects options that Simhub makes possible, that are not possible on motion haptics. Also sensations can go directly into the users body regions and these are independently controlled.

Very few people have experienced perhaps the potential of more advanced effects, including Boosted Media (it seems) but they give no indication of what effects they used on previous tactile they have tried and IIRC they have never even done a detailed look into tactile and Simhub.

Just for the record, you where not the one my post was intended to, as i think you know what i mean about these comparisons.
In general i just want people to stop comparing the two as comparable options..

They are two different systems, and the buyers end goal/wishes and economy will decide which way to go if not getting both..

Both combined is definently best if you want it all (my opinion).

I have both, one of the better motion systems, and a high-end tactile that i am very happy with.. (Using profiles both from you and other`s)
As you say, i think few have experienced both great motion and high-end tactile.

But i don`t put the system up against each other, as none of them is best at doing both motion and tactile.

SO; if you want motion, they will provide quite good rumblestrips, road surface and engine vibs, but not as good as a high-end tactile system.
If motion isnt a option, tactile is awsome on it`s own as well!

 

[RCHeliguy]

edit: Hopefully Mr Helicopter sees my pm wrt Good Vibrations /Discord

"Mr. Helicopter" was sound asleep when you posted that, but saw it when he woke up.

 

[Beano iRacing]

Haha, cheers RC, appreciated See you there!
ps: Nice Chopper!

 

[DaMaDo]

Hey all, to use NX3000D amps in the US that are made for 220V, do I need a 5000W (>=3000 x 1.5) transformer or would I be ok with a lower wattage? The back of the amp by the power input says 350W, even though it's a 3000W amp - so I'm confused.

 

[RCHeliguy]

You would need a power converter to use that with 110V. Personally I won't get 220V devices for use in the US unless you are running 220V circuits.

The following is a device that could work, but I've never tried one so this isn't an endorsement or recommendation.

https://www.amazon.com/Yinleader-Voltage-Transformer-Converter-DT-500VA/dp/B07PS3NKWS

I have a Behringer NX4-6000 that very optimistically suggests it is capable of pushing 1500W into 4 channels for a total of 6000W.

A 15A 120V circuit is only rated for a maximum of 1850W.

These ratings are only for peak values sustained for very short bursts so internally they use Capacitors to store energy and they will top off the capacitors between these peaks.

 

[DaMaDo]

Ah gotcha, so it's the caps that produce the peaks. So the 350w shown on the back is the max continuous it will consume.

Thomanmusic has the 3000D for $350 shipped. US models are $479, which comes out to $522 with tax - so I'd save a good amount.

If I got two of those 3000D and put them on a $100 transformer, it's $250 savings, which gets me an EPQ304 and an exciter free.

 

[RCHeliguy]

I wouldn't want the additional clutter and conversion losses, but it's your money.

 

[metalnwood]

Hey all, to use NX3000D amps in the US that are made for 220V, do I need a 5000W (>=3000 x 1.5) transformer or would I be ok with a lower wattage? The back of the amp by the power input says 350W, even though it's a 3000W amp - so I'm confused.
View attachment 594202

If you are wiling you can also look at something like this

Behringer NU3000DSP Volt mod 110v to 220v

www.avsforum.com

It seems the amp can do it but rather than just a switch on the board like some you would have to manually alter the board.

 

[DaMaDo]

That's awesome, and super easy to do, thank you!!!

 

[F1Aussie]

Hi all, I have swapped out some dayton bst-1 50w rms shakers for some reckhorn 100w rms and max 200w for 2 seconds.

I am driving them with some behringer dsp amps where you can set the maximum output to each channel. With the reckhorns should I max it out at 100w per channel or 200w then on the amp?

Cheers

 

[Novopaine]

Hi all, I have swapped out some dayton bst-1 50w rms shakers for some reckhorn 100w rms and max 200w for 2 seconds.

I am driving them with some behringer dsp amps where you can set the maximum output to each channel. With the reckhorns should I max it out at 100w per channel or 200w then on the amp?

Cheers

I don't own any Behringer amps, so I can't speak on any internal settings to limit the power. What I would do is use a multimeter and a formula to determine the gain settings. To do that you need to know the RMS power output of the amp. Unfortunately Behringer doesn't post the RMS numbers, only Peak. You might be able to guesstimate the power output. Here's a video to illustrate the point, and maybe help you deduce the RMS output power:

For setting the gains you can check out this next video. It's aimed at car audio, but the methodology is the same.

 

[Petterio]

Hi,
I'm in progress of updating my seat and thought I'd move my exciters to a better location on it. I'm wondering what people have found out to be the best method of removing and reattaching exciters?

 

[Peter Winkler]

some heat, plastic knife, and never pull the housing
just use the knife to peel it off
did it 20 times

 

[Benzaah]

some heat, plastic knife, and never pull the housing
just use the knife to peel it off
did it 20 times

Ill reinforce this by saying ive lost 2 exciters to impatience so please take your time, use heat and never pull the housing. Those little metal fingers are not repairable