RF2 FFB. WTAF

[SPEED-DEMON]

So I reinstalled RF2 and tried to give it another shot. The ffb is absolute crap. I've tried all sorts of settings on my DD2, I then tried adding some smoothening in game.
Am I doing something wrong here?
I drove the bykollis lmp1 and got this to an ok level. Then jumped into a m4 gt car and the steering weighed a tonne.
What in the name of God is going on?
How does this stuff go on sale?
I also have issues where the wheel will start moving side to side even when the car is stopped.

 

[Bob Gnarley]

Not a DD user so can't offer much but for the side to side thing try disabling Hold Brakes in options menu.

 

[Rebel_488]

It’s resets to 100% with every car change. Lower it as preferred each time

 

[davehenrie]

As posted just above, EVERY car has it's own ffb setting. Even the same cars with different skins. You have to adjust each one.(so if you drove the RED M4, and then jumped in the BLUE M4, you would need to reset the ffb for each of those) Generally settings of around 70 to 80% are common for most users.

If you could, upload a screen shot of your Calibration screen. All the sliders should be close to the center for linear travel. And smoothing is meant to dull your ffb responses especially for older wheels that tended to lurch whenever a small crack was driven over. Your wheel should rarely need smoothing, unless you are comfortable with some of the ffb being diminished.

 

[SPEED-DEMON]

It’s resets to 100% with every car change. Lower it as preferred each time

I've lowered the ffb in fanatec to 35% or so. It's still quite strong. So should I be turning down the car multiplier from the controls menu each time?

 

[SPEED-DEMON]

As posted just above, EVERY car has it's own ffb setting. Even the same cars with different skins. You have to adjust each one.(so if you drove the RED M4, and then jumped in the BLUE M4, you would need to reset the ffb for each of those) Generally settings of around 70 to 80% are common for most users.

If you could, upload a screen shot of your Calibration screen. All the sliders should be close to the center for linear travel. And smoothing is meant to dull your ffb responses especially for older wheels that tended to lurch whenever a small crack was driven over. Your wheel should rarely need smoothing, unless you are comfortable with some of the ffb being diminished.

Are referring to the car specific ffb multiplier.?

 

[Durge Driven]

Yes set the Multiplier every time you drive a new car
Any car you changed settings will automatically be retained
For mine rF2 FFB is one of the best and simplest to use
Are you using Fanalabs ? if not grab it

 

[Durge Driven]

This is for DD1 and CSL DD
rF2 is @ 28:10

 

[Durge Driven]

 

[Rebel_488]

I've lowered the ffb in fanatec to 35% or so. It's still quite strong. So should I be turning down the car multiplier from the controls menu each time?

Yeah set yer ffb in fanalabs then adjust the ffb multiplier per car. Smoothing should be low but on some cars I’ll go as high as 3 or 4. Open wheelers ffb multiplier I’m at 80 ish, tin tops 50-75. Set buttons for both on keyboard to make adjs easier. It will remember your settings once u set them however

 

[SPEED-DEMON]

Thanks for the replies guys. I downloaded AMS 2 this morning for my GTE/LMP fix. The FFB is way better, and much more consistent out of the box too. Sensitive brakes on it though!

 

[SPEED-DEMON]

Just to revive this thread. I really want to give RF2 a shot. I've spent hours messing about with individual car ffb on fanalab. Also adjusting the ffb multiplier in game.
Ive reduced the jolt to 0 in the json.
I've reduced ffb intensity on fanalab to 40/50 for most cars. Force effects (which is what RF2 runs the ffb to is set to 80ish, gain is 45 to 75 depending on the car profile.
I have my fanatec damper at 28% for most cars.

All of this is being done to maintain weight to the steering, while at the same time not rattling my rig to pieces from just looking at a kerb.
Kerb contact causes crazy high spikes in output, far more than holding high G through a corner.
Kerbs at Le Mans for example can be very aggressive. Even the first 5 corners or so can cause severe spikes in the ffb.

I'm am trying to understand what the "great RF2" ffb is all about.
Driving the ligier LMP2 car for example, steering is very light in that car, but as soon as I run a kerb, the dd2 base wants to make use of its warranty and take the steering wheel with it.
This cannot be normal...or is it?

 

[rand777]

I have a Bodnar DD wheelbase and RF2 using it has by far the best FFB of any other title I've tried. It was superb out of the box with all default settings. I then applied the settings recommended by Bodnar for RF2 which smoothed things out slightly which I prefer.

Given that RFactor Pro is the gold standard used by F1 teams for their own in-house training, I suspect this is likely a configuration issue perhaps or some other technical anomaly is at play. If you can find someone with your wheelbase they may have RF2 settings to share.

 

[Rebel_488]

Devs in the discord just a few days ago in the hardware section talked about fana tec wheels being the worst for rf2. Fanatec Drivers where blamed, jolts where mentioned, fixes past or present where not offered. FEI I think u might wanna look into….Everything else, short of a link for an sc2 pro lol. I asked about the vrs dd they said basically any osw but fanatec is NOT recommended for rf2. The users responded with various levels of success and enjoyment they have with csldd/dd1 or 2. I personally only discovered the jolt recently on my csldd when I bought the bmw m2 and it’s the first car I don’t enjoy driving oddly I love it in ac and r3e. I agree about the kerbs and the wheel testing the warranty even when at 60% and 4 smoothing. I prefer to run very low smoothing but after a flat spot the game is undrivable on csldd. I have a love and hate relationship atm. Wish I’d know they don’t recommend fanatec before I upgraded as the reported best ffb, best ai (lol) and the fact that it works fairly well in vr was the main reason for moving over from acc and the **** show that it is on vr. Long story short all sims r **** in their own way.
What did u edit in the json for jolt? Or is it that obvious lol

 

[marklar]

I also have issues where the wheel will start moving side to side even when the car is stopped.

These oscillations are caused by a bug in Fanatec driver. You need to turn off NFR in Fanalab. In recommended settings it's set to 4.

 

[acrox999]

Devs in the discord just a few days ago in the hardware section talked about fana tec wheels being the worst for rf2. Fanatec Drivers where blamed, jolts where mentioned, fixes past or present where not offered. FEI I think u might wanna look into….Everything else, short of a link for an sc2 pro lol. I asked about the vrs dd they said basically any osw but fanatec is NOT recommended for rf2. The users responded with various levels of success and enjoyment they have with csldd/dd1 or 2. I personally only discovered the jolt recently on my csldd when I bought the bmw m2 and it’s the first car I don’t enjoy driving oddly I love it in ac and r3e. I agree about the kerbs and the wheel testing the warranty even when at 60% and 4 smoothing. I prefer to run very low smoothing but after a flat spot the game is undrivable on csldd. I have a love and hate relationship atm. Wish I’d know they don’t recommend fanatec before I upgraded as the reported best ffb, best ai (lol) and the fact that it works fairly well in vr was the main reason for moving over from acc and the **** show that it is on vr. Long story short all sims r **** in their own way.
What did u edit in the json for jolt? Or is it that obvious lol

I finally decided to play rFactor 2 for real and my God isn't it scary. It doesn't rattle my bones as I have quite strong hands myself but it sure as hell is going to break my CSW V2 one day when I hit another curb in rF2.

The spikes are way too strong. Even when cornering, it feels like the game is trying to dismantle the whole belt column in my Fanatec wheelbase.

AMS2 to me feels like what rFactor 2 FFB would've been but stable and consistent. The feeling is the same but I don't have to be scared of my wheel getting dismantled during a lap.

 

[davehenrie]

I have the 2.5 CSW and have never felt overpowered by jolts. Run the Fanatac or Fanalab settings at 100% and then in-game reduce that to around 70 to 75%. One of rF2 oddities...AND THERE ARE MANY...is that each skin needs to be adjusted.

 

[davehenrie]

Are referring to the car specific ffb multiplier.?

Yes, I was, sorry for the late reply.

 

[wolftree]

I finally decided to play rFactor 2 for real and my God isn't it scary. It doesn't rattle my bones as I have quite strong hands myself but it sure as hell is going to break my CSW V2 one day when I hit another curb in rF2.

The spikes are way too strong. Even when cornering, it feels like the game is trying to dismantle the whole belt column in my Fanatec wheelbase.

AMS2 to me feels like what rFactor 2 FFB would've been but stable and consistent. The feeling is the same but I don't have to be scared of my wheel getting dismantled during a lap.

You can edit the Controller.json file to reduce the jolt effects without losing anything on the FFB fidelity of the cornering forces. This will reduce the violent bump steer from road imperfections that overloads the default FFB. I ended up with the following values:

"Jolt magnitude":0.015
"Off-road multiplier":0.03

 

[mrhogan]

You can edit the Controller.json file to reduce the jolt effects without losing anything on the FFB fidelity of the cornering forces. This will reduce the violent bump steer from road imperfections that overloads the default FFB. I ended up with the following values:

"Jolt magnitude":0.015
"Off-road multiplier":0.03

wot this guy said, worked a treat - no more broken wrists and knuckles.
thank you.