The Nissan Nismo GT-R GT1 is newly updated to v1.6! This update is primarily an update to bring the tire model (CPM – contact patch model) into this car, but there were a number of other tweaks and fixes done on what is actually quite an old base model. Improved shaders should help the car look a little more comparable with other recently updated content, but the vast majority of changes will be in the driving experience; our testers really enjoyed this one…
Download v1.6: 83.6MB
– Brand new tyres (CPM).
– Reduced Max steering lock and moved to new steer lock method (as per other newer cars, which attempts to keep your steering ratio correct).
– minor increase in CG.
– Allowing a bit more freedom in anti-roll bar ranges, softened default.
– Slightly less ‘randomness’ in engine lifetime.
– Minor aero tweaks.
– Slower real road rate.
– Recalculated brake system.
– Cleanup of old params and updated others to newest params based on build changes.
– Reduced graphical helmet movement (when looking AT the car)
– added tv style onboard cam,
– Fixed the hood glitch
– updated shaders
– moved the dash sticker up
– added new head light glow
– updated body shaders
– Fixed a bad shadow at the back of the side window
– Newer driver model
In GT racing, GT1 class cars are obviously the fastest available non-prototype cars, with carbon brakes, high downforce and plenty of power, they lap much quicker than the other GT categories. For many it is the ideal balance of raw speed and drive-ability.
Capable of producing 2200lbs of downforce at top-speed, the car weighs just under 3000lbs and develops up to 600hp (447kW) and 480lb-ft (650Nm) of torque from it’s 5.6L V8 engine. Shifting is handled by a Ricardo six-speed and a 5.5″ carbon-fiber triple plate clutch. Brakes are carbon-ceramic discs with six-piston calipers.
Designed to compete in the FIA GT Championship, the Nissan Nismo GT-R GT1 (R35) is based on the GT-R road car. First competing in 2009 for an initial four outings, the car entered competition full-time in 2010.
Allied with JRM Racing (under the Sumo Power GT banner), the car went on to claim the 2011 drivers’ title and four outright race wins, before a change in regulations forced GT1 teams to switch category, racing the GT-R in GT3 configuration for 2012.
We ship with a single configuration Nissan Nismo GT-R GT1 based on the 2011 season.
We do not believe an easy setup is required for this car. The standard setup should be very drive-able.
With a reasonable amount of downforce (around 2200lbs at top speed), but still nothing compared to most open-wheel cars, the GT-R GT1 is a very stable machine that can be made unstable mainly due to driver input. Drive carefully out of the turns, especially in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear, where wheelspin is common.
The car has a sequential box, so you’re free to flat-to-the-floor up-shift. Peak power is near redline RPM, so short shift only to save fuel or when traction is low.
The GT-R has significant power, nearing the 600hp mark. A smooth approach to acceleration is therefore needed at lower speeds to minimize throttle-on oversteer, especially in 1st and 2nd gears. This becomes less of a problem in 3rd gear, where it becomes relatively easy to get the power down, and by the time you are in 4th you can more or less mash the throttle as downforce increases and torque delivery decreases. The car can still bite if you don’t treat it with respect, especially on a bumpy surface.
Carbon brakes do require a little bit of warm up time, they perform best around 400-700°C and offer excellent fade resistance, but it is best not to exceed 900°C frequently. As the car produces significant downforce, about 3/4 the weight of the car at top speed, you’ll find you can apply more brake pressure at higher speeds and have to reduce your braking force gradually as the speeds reduce. Locking an inside wheel is somewhat easy at low speed, move the bias rearward at lower speeds, and try to brake in a straight line.
With around 600hp, it is very easy to spin and overheat the tires. Manage throttle control carefully in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear, short shifting if lacking grip. Locking an inside wheel under braking is very easy, you may need to move the bias rearward at lower speeds, and try to do most of your braking in a straight line. Front tires are 30/68-18, rear tires are 31/71-18. Optimum temperatures around 80-100°C.