Mobile Driving/Flying Cockpit with Motion and Tactile ( Build )

[RCHeliguy]

This mount easily attaches in the same place as my Virpil flight throttle. I just reverse the side that I bolt from.

It feels pretty good where I have it which is lower and much closer to where an actual Helicopter collective stick tends to come out of the floor next to the seat.

When I plugged it into my computer it was immediately recognized as "Collective". Now I need to configure my Huey in DCS to use it and give it a test run.

I also found out that early May is only going to be the pre-order data for the AH-64 Apache. Still no idea when it will actually be released.

 

[RCHeliguy]

@Wmacky So far I like the stick I spent a couple hours in the DCS Huey AH-1h this morning. It registered as Collective and Windows immediately recognized it. In DCS I had to Tune the Collective and Throttle Axis to get full range. It appears to have a 14 bit A/D for both axis which seems like overkill.

The Throttle is smooth and holds very well. Since the Huey has a very narrow rpm range where the turbine is happy, you pretty much take off at full throttle and then back it off slightly and then only when dropping or flattening the collective in fast turns. The collective is very smooth and I had no issues what-so-ever with sticking.

I was a bit rusty and overcorrecting with both the collective and stick when landing. After I started to relax the landings became much better.

I may pre-order the Mi-24 Hind as soon as it is available through steam. I need to get my black hawk transferred over since I own it, but ran it outside of Steam many years ago.

It's worth mentioning that Virpil is working on a collective stick that will have replicable grips. I just found out about this, of course... Their initial grips shown are the SharKa-50 and VPC Hawk-60. If they release an Apache grip I might get itchy. That said there is no telling how long they will be or how long the wait will be.

VIRPIL shows new line of collective controllers, seeks for testers • HeliSimmer.com

The company is showing off the new products, which replicate the Ka-50 and UH-60 collective kits.

www.helisimmer.com

 

[RCHeliguy]

I just ordered some 2 pole Neutrik female connectors arriving tomorrow. I'll be 3D printing a mount for them and use them to plug in my foot plate transducers since I may end up removing my driving pedal deck when I'm flying and I just have to unplug a USB cord for the pedals and disconnect my front transducers when I lift it off.

I'm currently on the waiting list for both the Pro Sim Lockout ( expected June ) and the HRS Sprint Pedal faces ( expected May ).

H Pattern and Sequential Gear Shift Lock - Pro Sim

Our unique shift lock system to simulate the real life action of the gearbox on the simulator requiring the need to use the clutch to change gear for realism.

www.pro-sim.co.uk

HRS 3pc 3D Machined Sprint Pedal Faces

NOTE: Australian customers - 10% GST will be added at checkout NOTE: International customers - import duties into your country will be at your expense, and will be your responsibility. The HRS billet aluminium 3D machined Pedal plates are a direct replacement for the Heusinkveld Sprint Series...

hrsims.com

 

[Tom_Hampton]

I'm currently on the waiting list for both the Pro Sim Lockout ( expected June ) and the HRS Sprint Pedal faces ( expected May ).

Wait, wut?....you're not printing pedals? I just ordered a spool of ASA to see how it prints, and how strong it is.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Typically I have to wait for a part to arrive before I design a mount for it, but Neutrik provided a 3D model of their 2 Pole female receiver that imported directly into Fusion 360 and I was able to design a mount around that. So I've got two of these mounts printing right now and they should be ready when the parts arrive today.

I already have some M3 bolts with beveled heads to secure the receiver to my mount.

I designed it to take a single bevel head M8 bolt to secure it to my profile.

All set to go whenever the receivers arrive.

 

[RCHeliguy]

The 2 pole receivers are running late and will arrive today, but I've ordered some 4 pole connectors and receivers that will be here on Wednesday.

Having two plugs where only one is needed bothered me. Luckily Neutrik's 2 pole and 4 pole receivers have the exact same dimensions, so I can use the same 3D printed mounts for them. Since the receiver will be soldered, I'd like to do this right the first time.

 

[RCHeliguy]

This Neutrik 2 pole connector fits perfectly, but I'm waiting for the 4 pole before I break out my soldering iron.

In Fusion 360 I was able to just create a block and subtract the 3D model I imported for the receiver from that block leaving me with a perfectly sized hole. I enlarged the hole by 0.1mm all around for any 3D printing delta. The M3 holes are slightly undersized, but chamfered at a steep angle to make starting the machine screws easy.

It would be quite easy to create a custom patch bay this way.

Neutrik 2,4 Pole mount by RCHeliGuy

This Neutrik receiver mount will fit the 2 and 4 pole Neutrik recievers. I use it as interconnects for speaker wire for the transducers on my rig. It uses 1 M8x16 bevel head bolts like these to mount to 40 series profile https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z3FXR8L It uses 2 x M3x12 bevel...

www.thingiverse.com

 

[MarkModdy]

Nice and neat

 

[GagarynGaribaldi]

This Neutrik 2 pole connector fits perfectly, but I'm waiting for the 4 pole before I break out my soldering iron.

In Fusion 360 I was able to just create a block and subtract the 3D model I imported for the receiver from that block leaving me with a perfectly sized hole. I enlarged the hole by 0.1mm all around for any 3D printing delta. The M3 holes are slightly undersized, but chamfered at a steep angle to make starting the machine screws easy.

It would be quite easy to create a custom patch bay this way.

Neutrik 2,4 Pole mount by RCHeliGuy

This Neutrik receiver mount will fit the 2 and 4 pole Neutrik recievers. I use it as interconnects for speaker wire for the transducers on my rig. It uses 1 M8x16 bevel head bolts like these to mount to 40 series profile https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z3FXR8L It uses 2 x M3x12 bevel...

www.thingiverse.com

View attachment 459688View attachment 459687

You probably know about these, but if not you should check out the Miniware TS80P USB soldering iron, absolutely fantastic piece of kit. It's my go too iron now due to the convenience of using it anywhere within seconds with a power bank. Amazing how capable it is, performs way better than its 30W rating would suggest - can't say enough good things about it. I have barely used my soldering station since I got it, was wiring a guitar the other day, was about to get the station out to solder ground wires onto the pot casing which is a good test due to the way pot backs soak heat away but the USB iron managed it like a champ.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Test printing an shorter extension pipe out of PLA and only 15% infill just to see if it fits.

If it fits correctly and I like the height, then I'll try PETG with 30% infill and probably more wall thickness.

 

[RCHeliguy]

You probably know about these, but if not you should check out the Miniware TS80P USB soldering iron, absolutely fantastic piece of kit. It's my go too iron now due to the convenience of using it anywhere within seconds with a power bank. Amazing how capable it is, performs way better than its 30W rating would suggest - can't say enough good things about it. I have barely used my soldering station since I got it, was wiring a guitar the other day, was about to get the station out to solder ground wires onto the pot casing which is a good test due to the way pot backs soak heat away but the USB iron managed it like a champ.

Interesting looking:

Amazon.com: NovelLife TS80P Portable Electric Soldering Iron with PD 45W Wall Charger USB Type C Silicone Cable Kit,Adjustable Temperature,Digital OLED Screen Display,Fast Internal Heating,TS B02 Solder Tip: Home Improvement

Amazon.com: NovelLife TS80P Portable Electric Soldering Iron with PD 45W Wall Charger USB Type C Silicone Cable Kit,Adjustable Temperature,Digital OLED Screen Display,Fast Internal Heating,TS B02 Solder Tip: Home Improvement

www.amazon.com

Do you solder with lead? I've moved away from it and the solder I use now requires 750 degrees to flow well.

 

[RedBull48]

@RCHeliguy Completely off topic but I am starting a new project with that Galaxy black PLA. I just received a vocore display that I plan on replacing my nextion with. The foot print is significantly smaller. Designed a new housing and just printing off the last bits now. I also designed a somewhat dashboard solution similar to what you have done on your rig. It's not as sophisticated but it will allow me to migrate away from an external button box and have more of an integrated feel if that makes sense. Will send you some pics when things are in place!

 

[GagarynGaribaldi]

Interesting looking:

Amazon.com: NovelLife TS80P Portable Electric Soldering Iron with PD 45W Wall Charger USB Type C Silicone Cable Kit,Adjustable Temperature,Digital OLED Screen Display,Fast Internal Heating,TS B02 Solder Tip: Home Improvement

Amazon.com: NovelLife TS80P Portable Electric Soldering Iron with PD 45W Wall Charger USB Type C Silicone Cable Kit,Adjustable Temperature,Digital OLED Screen Display,Fast Internal Heating,TS B02 Solder Tip: Home Improvement

www.amazon.com

Do you solder with lead? I've moved away from it and the solder I use now requires 750 degrees to flow well.

Yes, I solder with leaded mainly but do use lead free when I have to. Lead free should flow at a much lower temp than 750 F though (had to google it to find out thats 400 C! I very rarely go over 320 C. That is way too hot, I suspect there is another issue at play.
Are you sure that either
a) your tip is struggling to maintain temp so you are having to compensate by dealing in a higher temp , or
b) temperature is being incorrectly reported?

The TS80P strength is it accurately monitors actual tip temperature and is able to very quickly modulate power to maintain that temp. I think you'd be able to get good flow way below the temp you are currently using - although it will maintain crazy hot tip temps should you really need them.

 

[RCHeliguy]

The problem may be that I have historically been soldering 10 and 8 awg copper wire to large plugs and they can suck away a LOT of heat and I just got used to using using that temperature. I'm using a pretty decent Weller station.

Those batteries and ESC can handle peaks of 58V by 300A and that 14S battery pack can be sucked dry in a little over 2 minutes when doing speed runs. So the wire needs to be 10 awg or larger and as short a run as possible.

ure.

 

[GagarynGaribaldi]

The problem may be that I have historically been soldering 10 and 8 awg copper wire to large plugs and they can suck away a LOT of heat and I just got used to using using that temperature. I'm using a pretty decent Weller station.

Those batteries and ESC can handle peaks of 58V by 300A and that 14S battery pack can be sucked dry in a little over 2 minutes when doing speed runs. So the wire needs to be 10 awg or larger and as short a run as possible.

View attachment 459786ure.

Yup, the greater the mass of the components the harder things get. The problem with many stations is they measure the temperature half way down the iron - by the time the sensor sees that the temp is dropping the tip is much cooler, the smaller the tip the bigger the problem. The wee USB iron is probably not the best choice for bigger jobs like that but I have been really surprised at how effective it is - I think it could actually manage with the largest available chisel tip but it would be pushing it. But for stuff like the jacks on your rig and other stuff you want to do away from the bench it's amazing. It's a handy tool to have in the arsenal. If you do get one make sure you have a power bank that can supply it with the 30 watts it requires.

 

[RCHeliguy]

I was told that my arm should be resting on my leg when I'm using my flight stick.

So I started down the path of making a shorter extension tube, which worked BTW. However I ended up removing the extension tube and that guy was right it is more comfortable. After lowering the spring tension in both axis it feels great. This is a great example of not knowing what I should want.

I also found out that with the range of motion of the Virpil CM2 base that it is better this way. For extension tubes, having a smaller range of motion works better. So my base is designed to be used without a extension tube.

I also learned what the stubby allen key wrench that came with the CM2 base is for.

When I was looking at a 3D printed extension tube I realized that I was only using a couple threads to hold my grip on. It turns out that the CM2 base has a feature to keep the grip from unscrewing. There are 3 grub screws that tighten a cap down. You are supposed to back them off so they are flush with the top of the retaining ring. This exposes just over 4 threads or twice what I was using. After you have screwed it on firmly but not too tight, then you tighten the 3 grub screws from the top to put additional pressure between the grip and the top of the pipe it is attached too.

 

[RCHeliguy]

The 4 Pole Neutrik Connector cleans this up nicely and will make it easy to remove the pedal deck when I set it up for flight mode. There are now just lever bolts, the USB cable for the pedals and this transducer plug.

A few things to finish off my Collective stick mount.

1. 3D printed 40x40 profile end cap with an open slot on top.
   
   
2. A stop so I can immediately position the stick where I want it fore/aft without any futzing.
   
   
3. The collective stick is now shimmed level. The seat bracket isn't at 90 degrees at the front of the seat so the stick was moving slightly away from the seat when I pulled it up. Now it is straight up and down and that feels better.

 

[blekenbleu]

I also went with the trackball after I saw your posts.
Best thing I ever did. So much better for sim racing.
For mine, I mounted it directly to the right side of my seat.
Just used some strong sticky pads. Essentially on its side

Thanks for that; I had never considered a trackball mounted vertically.
I was going back thru Mark's cockpit odyssey,
looking for more about horizontal haptics from vertically-mounted transducers
when I stumbled over this bonus gem; thanks!

 

[blekenbleu]

I think I need to be done with this for a while.

I just reread the entire thread to sort (heel plate) transducer orientation.
It and your rig are awesome; more care went into your fan than my entire rig.
It is probably used too often for dust collecting on HMD lenses to be an issue,
but have you considered designing a hanger that inverted it?

 

[RCHeliguy]

I just reread the entire thread to sort (heel plate) transducer orientation.
It and your rig are awesome; more care went into your fan than my entire rig.
It is probably used too often for dust collecting on HMD lenses to be an issue,
but have you considered designing a hanger that inverted it?

The headset spends VERY little time hanging lenses up. It is just a place to stick the headset when I'm setting up or using the bathroom. The way it hangs is very easy to grab and the orientation works well because the heavy part is hanging down.

I have a head shaped VR Headset holder that I store my headset on when I'm not using it.