Mobile Driving/Flying Cockpit with Motion and Tactile ( Build )

[RCHeliguy]

That's it! The design is complete!

Here it all is.

 

[Atak_Kat]

Impressive. What is great about your design is that even if in a few months you decide something is not perfect, you can just print a new panel and install. Very nice.

I have to ask though (been doing some 3d printer research, unfortunately.......). I see many of your panels have a really nice sort of textured finish that does not show the usual layers from 3 prints. Is this some sort of option with the Prusa's? Or related to the material/base you print on? Looks very nice either way.

(side note, I just ordered/received a 3d printed item and I was really unhappy with it re the texture. I did not expect injection molded smoothness, but it was really a lot worse than I expected, so what I see you printing is far, far better .... so I'm curious. I also tried to do a bit of filing/cleanup on the part I received and it was a real PIA... not something I would sign myself up for re: every part, if I ended up investing in a 3d printer.....)

 

[RCHeliguy]

Impressive. What is great about your design is that even if in a few months you decide something is not perfect, you can just print a new panel and install. Very nice.

I have to ask though (been doing some 3d printer research, unfortunately.......). I see many of your panels have a really nice sort of textured finish that does not show the usual layers from 3 prints. Is this some sort of option with the Prusa's? Or related to the material/base you print on? Looks very nice either way.

(side note, I just ordered/received a 3d printed item and I was really unhappy with it re the texture. I did not expect injection molded smoothness, but it was really a lot worse than I expected, so what I see you printing is far, far better .... so I'm curious. I also tried to do a bit of filing/cleanup on the part I received and it was a real PIA... not something I would sign myself up for re: every part, if I ended up investing in a 3d printer.....)

I have two plates. The first is a smooth plate. To get that textured surface I use the Textured print plate. What happens is that the first layer is squished into the texture and hides the layer lines. Of course I can only use it on one surface, but I very much like the results I'm getting with it.

Double-sided Textured PEI Powder-coated Spring Steel Sheet - Prusa Research

Double-sided textured PEI powder-coated spring steel sheet for the Original Prusa i3 MK3/S/+ and MK2.5/S.

shop.prusa3d.com

Prusa recently announced a new "satin" sheet which I assume is halfway between smooth and textured.

The thing about Prusa is that they have seriously dialed this printer in over the years. They also use a huge farm of their own 3D Printers to print many of the parts. So they eat their own dog food so to speak and have worked hard to make the printers reliable and consistant.

I'm very sure I'll iterate on the controls and layout over time. I'm also playing with the Labels. Having standard magnet spacing that allows me just move labels around all I want will help me iterate on the best logical layout of controls over time.

I have the next two 7 hour prints ready with the first printing now. The enclosures are the BIG print jobs 19 hours up to 1 day 20 hours. However the panels are all 7.5 hours or less AND the largest only uses about $2 in materials. So I can design a change, have it the same day and only be out a couple bucks. I'll also go through some M3 threaded inserts.

There is still a bit of time to swap all the controls over and insert the magnets.

My hope is that there is just enough effort that think about my changes and accumulate a few before redesigning things or that I make a number of design changes before going to print again.

I just realized I still have a lot of labels to make. <sigh>

 

[RCHeliguy]

As far as 3D printers go. I think some people like a toy that requires fiddling and becomes a project in itself. I just wanted a reliable tool.

I've seen people argue about saving money on the printer and Creality has a strong following. But getting a printer like that is just the start of the adventure. Most people buy a Creality with a list of upgrades already in mind.

A friend of mine started explaining why he purchased a Creality recently. He started by going on about how great it was to have a standard Marlin board that he could write custom firmware for.

I asked him why he cared about that. Then he listed features he added to his printer. My Prusa already had those features.

Then he explained the other upgrades he made for auto-leveling. Great, I already have that feature. Filament sensor, yup, already have that.

Then he had to deal with a build surface that creases and wears pretty easily. So he upgraded the build plate with something from Matter Hackers.

The Prusa magnetic build plates are GREAT! They are a fantastic feature. They are double sided. The parts release easily, but stick during the print. Importantly they are metal and you just flex them a bit to release the parts. And as you mentioned the textured plate creates an excellent result.

I've had a number of people tell me about all the trial and error I was going to have learning how to adjust temperatures, settings feed rates etc.... Nope! I just used PrusaSlicer and Prusa filaments and profiles. Everything just worked like clockwork.

BTW I buy all my filament directly from Prusa. The prices listed on Amazon for Prusament filament are a complete rip off and scare some people away.

At the end of the day a 3D printer can be a time sink or not. I'm spending all my time in Fusion 360 and it is a lot of time, but it's all part of the creative process rather than a waste of time.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Trying out my high tech enclosure

It doesn't seem to be causing any interference and it is a bit warmer inside.

I'm hoping when I start my nearly entire build plate sized print that runs for 1 day and 20 hours that this may help prevent warping.

 

[Atak_Kat]

As far as 3D printers go. I think some people like a toy that requires fiddling and becomes a project in itself. I just wanted a reliable tool.

I've seen people argue about saving money on the printer and Creality has a strong following. But getting a printer like that is just the start of the adventure. Most people buy a Creality with a list of upgrades already in mind.

A friend of mine started explaining why he purchased a Creality recently. He started by going on about how great it was to have a standard Marlin board that he could write custom firmware for.

I asked him why he cared about that. Then he listed features he added to his printer. My Prusa already had those features.

Then he explained the other upgrades he made for auto-leveling. Great, I already have that feature. Filament sensor, yup, already have that.

Then he had to deal with a build surface that creases and wears pretty easily. So he upgraded the build plate with something from Matter Hackers.

The Prusa magnetic build plates are GREAT! They are a fantastic feature. They are double sided. The parts release easily, but stick during the print. Importantly they are metal and you just flex them a bit to release the parts. And as you mentioned the textured plate creates an excellent result.

I've had a number of people tell me about all the trial and error I was going to have learning how to adjust temperatures, settings feed rates etc.... Nope! I just used PrusaSlicer and Prusa filaments and profiles. Everything just worked like clockwork.

BTW I buy all my filament directly from Prusa. The prices listed on Amazon for Prusament filament are a complete rip off and scare some people away.

At the end of the day a 3D printer can be a time sink or not. I'm spending all my time in Fusion 360 and it is a lot of time, but it's all part of the creative process rather than a waste of time.

Thanks for all that. Actually, it confirms all the things I've been researching and what seems to be the consensus. Yes, there is cheaper alternative, and I passed up a fairly hefty sale on a Creality 5 Pro. I do admit I like tinkering, but I also admit that I'm not so good at it (example, i recently fried an arduino nano and need to get another one.....) And the more I research, the more I think the Prusa is a good option. I also appreciate that the price point is not accessible for everyone, but once all the other 'stuff' gets added in, it's probably not far off.

Haven't quite hit the purchase button yet. Still trying to figure out how much I will really use it. It's in this 'cool/intriguing' place for me right now... And it seems quite clear that the technology is moving rapidly.

Will watch and learn for a bit.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Let me also add that my friend made a big deal out of having a color touch display and when I was researching building one from scratch I had selected a large color touch display never having used one.

I've found that I barely use the front display except for the following:

1. Select something to print
2. Unload/Reload filament
3. Toggle between the smooth and the textured magnetic boards
4. Check the time remaining if I forgot when the print should end.

That's it! And these are very fast and easy to do with the existing little LCD display.

So it seems people get hung up on features that don't matter to me or my prints.

 

[mechsicko]

I'd love a Prusa but went with a used rebadged ghetto knockoff of one, a Maker Select 2 Plus. It was only $160 in great shape though and at the time I didn't know enough about filament printers to have real preferences. I figured go with a cheap/bare bones unit with known upgrade paths that way through experience will make me aware of what features matter vs things people latch onto because brainworms. I don't mind tinkering so for me it was a good fit and probably learned a lot more about printers/printing than if I bought one that had most of the problems already solved.

If I ever start selling things/kits made with printed parts I'll likely try to get a Prusa for the workhorse but only if some of the projects I'm working on take off (TIE fighter yoke https://i.imgur.com/fFg5WeE.jpg https://i.imgur.com/CQsCE4g.jp , a few precision joystick gimbals with cam centering based on Olukelo's but with damping clutches integrated with Hall mounts etc).

As always though, it's a pleasure to see your projects unfold though, the printer has made your turnaround from concept to final version very streamlined even when you take the long route, though we're not around to see what are presumably an ungodly amount of hours spent squinting at the computer screen in Fusion

 

[RCHeliguy]

@mechsicko Learning experiences are all good. One thing that many also don't realize is that Prusa has kept their printers open source so people can build them from scratch if they want to.

The silver 30mm button is not staying. I'm still waiting for two 30mm backlit buttons for HMD and Start as well as 3 x 19mm backlit buttons for the replay binacle.

I should have added notches for the switches and toggles so they wouldn't spin. I'll secure them fully vertical rather than as shown here with small angles, but I think the notches are worth adding.

This is my progress so far. I think I'm going to print the wiring enclosure next.

 

[RCHeliguy]

These M - F jumper cables in 4", 6", 8" lengths are working beautifully, especially for all the switches, joysticks and toggles that have screw on connectors.

It may look a bit messing, but so far it all screwed or plugged together.

The 30mm backlit buttons will require some soldering, but overall this will be very easy to tweak.

I ended up drilling a few 12mm holes out to 16mm with my stepped bit so I could put the metal buttons in place with screw on connections. These have a nice detent feel to them as well.

 

[RCHeliguy]

The Backlit buttons arrive tomorrow along with the 12V Male and Female ends. That's everything I need to complete the entire button box, but I'm still waiting for the internal 12V disconnects mostly just for the fan. I can wire that up temporarily while waiting for them to show up.

The wiring enclosure will be complete tomorrow night about 10PM. I'll run a 7 hour print (side frame rear cover) until Tuesday morning and then kick off a 1 day 20 hour print (side frame) that should finish early Thursday morning and that that will just leave a 3 hour print( wiring enclosure rear cover and a small 12V enclosure side mount point ( < 1 hr ).

I've drilled a number of the 12mm button holes out to 16mm and I ordered a bunch more of the 16mm red button with raised top. They have a great tactile feel to them and I love how they don't require soldering which will make this even easier to iterate with. I also am not completely sold on the joysticks I'm using so I ordered something I think I'll like better that should fit the same hole and space, but likely won't be here until mid-February.

 

[RCHeliguy]

The 36 hour print of the wiring enclosure went well.

I left the box closed over the printer for the entire print. I'm not sure if it helped but print did not warp and sits flat.
I did add a brim to it and there are some supports as well to help hold it in place.

The good news is that everything lines up beautifully and it all fits together.

I didn't leave enough room for the bolts that hold the vertical mount to the uprights, in fact that part is just too long, but I have a hot knife

That trimmed up like butter.

I found a couple other issues. When I made this box deeper to hold all the ribbon connectors and so I could shift the position of my button box, I made it so I can't reach one of the bolts with my Allen driver in that triangular piece upper right above. I also have access holes to screw through the triangle into the binnacle, but I needed to make the inner hold large enough for the bolt head to fit through. I can fix that with my 90 degree drill adapter.

However the biggest issue however has to do with the binnacle. I SEVERELY misjudged the lit buttons that I got for it, so I'll need to enlarge that section. Fortunately that is a fairly smallish print compared to some of the others.

I deepened the binnacle by 25mm and increased the height by 5mm, but I kept the same bolt holes. I'm trying to avoid another 36 hour print for a new wiring enclosure and keeping the same bolt holes should work fine.

The 6 button holes were moved up 5mm so there would be no interference between the bottom buttons and the top of the wiring enclosure. One of the buttons was to the side of the opening between them.

The binnacle is printing right now and will be done some time before dinner time. Meanwhile I'm now comfortable that I can make the Wiring Enclosure work, so I have a lot of work to do inside it.

 

[RCHeliguy]

This is about as far as I want to go until the new Replay Binnacle is printed, populated and secured to the top of the Wiring Enclosure.
I'll need room to secure it to the top.
After I print out the little 12V mount, I'll start the biggest print that should go for 44 hours!

All that will be left after that are the rear covers which can print at their leisure after I get the rest of this together.

 

[RCHeliguy]

These longer buttons fit much better now.

Got the new backlit buttons in place, also the 12V mount (in white)

Was missing a few more 16 pin and 20 pin mounts, so they are printing now. The 44 hour print will start when I wake up tomorrow morning.

While that is happening, there is some soldering and a LOT of wiring between the BBI-64 and various ribbon connector ends.

 

[RCHeliguy]

I was just trying to imagine how I was going to traverse a maze of wiring to reach the bolts on the far side that attach to the front face. That is going to be fun...

I did wire up the binnacle, except for the 12V power to the PWM fan controller and back out again. It bolts up nice and tight, so that will be solid. However I'm still waiting for the 12V quick connect wiring. I also realized that I need two more 16pin mount covers.

Ribbon cables are all labeled and it appears that they will in fact actually reach I thought they would, however I will have to put a couple on after the large front panel is bolted in place. The rest have plenty of slack.

The monster 44 hour print is going now... Fingers crossed it goes smoothly!
I also realized that I have been running through my 100 M3 threaded inserts pretty quickly and I ordered another bag of 100, I was going to be about 4 shy of what I need.

 

[RCHeliguy]

The big print is still going and due to finish early AM tomorrow. So I will be able to see what it will all look like put together.

The attachment bolts in front are a bit of a PITA to reach now and will be worse when all the jumper cables are in place connecting the edge connectors to the BBI-64 board. I also found out that the ribbon cables will not quite reach or at least not in a way that allows me to keep my sanity, so I ordered a couple M-F 16 and 20 pin 6 and 8" extension ribbon cables.

My 12V mount was lost in shipping and a new one should arrive early next week. The extension cables will be later on that week. My additional M3 inserts come Sunday. So I'll be able to look at the pretty button box, but not run the 12V wiring or connect the side buttons for a bit longer. Looks like it will be next weekend before I get to take it for a spin.

That will give me time to design up some magnetic labels etc..

 

[RCHeliguy]

Happy New Year!!!!

It completed well. Some of the supports were mush, but the overall print was fine.
I think the enclosure helps. This is a very large print and it was very flat. I also used a brim and a lot of supports inside to help hold it to the print bed.

First mistake. I didn't widen the backing holes for the front panel for threaded inserts. So I drilled them out. No harm done, but whoops!

Then when I put in the 5mm threaded inserts I put them in from the inside which is both harder and meant I head to clean the screw hole out. I should open them up so people can put the inserts in from the outside. Once again no hard done. It just took me a little while to clean the holes up.

I did design in a serious limitation. Unless the vertical mount is pulled forward enough the side button frame won't have clearance.
Once again works well for me, but someone else may have issues. I'll need to create a clearance guide for this. Someone could hot knife off that section or adjust the original design to make more room.

Here is the back showing the USB cable in place and a lot of work left to do. The wiring enclosure rear cover is printing right now and I should have the side button box rear cover done before the end of the day.

Now for the results !!!!!!!

I sat down in the seat and touched all the controls and felt around for things with my eyes closed.

Beautiful!!!!! I can differentiate every control with ease and everything falls to hand easily. Ergonomics Accomplished!!!!!

This is a bit challenging to assemble, but I'm loving it!

 

[Callsign BH]

Really nice job there! Great start to 2021 for you and your rig evolution.

 

[Atak_Kat]

Great to see it getting finished. Have learned a lot along the way.
Nice work. Thanks for sharing the photos and comments, that takes a lot of time too!!
Enjoy.

 

[RCHeliguy]

Here is a back panel in place.
It doesn't look too bad.

However for some reason this panel printed a bit warped and I ended up using a hand plane to square the edges up and get it to fit properly. As I've repeated a few times, I have manhandled my prints a bit with my drill, X-acto knife, hand plane, and hot knife. That's quite a bit of man handling. Now I have designed a lot of that away, but it's still part of the process when you have things that need to fit together like this.