Mobile Driving/Flying Cockpit with Motion and Tactile ( Build )

RCHeliguy · Sep 15, 2020

A little Bling anyone?
I'm not sure exactly where I might use these, but ordered some just I felt the need.

I'm still more likely to recess these bolts, but was just checking this out.

I also ground the front corner of my track mouse mount that is just behind my hand brake, just in case. I barely nicked it a couple times, and wanted to make sure it didn't happen again.

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RCHeliguy · Sep 15, 2020

OK, I went a little nuts, and used up all 20 black, 6 of 10 red, and 13 of 20 silver beauty rings.

But they really finish the appearance of naked socket head bolts.

I still may recess the top bolts on this.

However the red seems to go well with the ProSim Shifter.
I also replaced those 4 x rusting black metal oxide bolts by the base of the stick.

Put them on the seat, seat belts, casters, and even the buttkicker plate.

DrRob · Sep 16, 2020

Looks neat and tidy. I like them. Beautify your rig!

RCHeliguy · Sep 17, 2020

2nd iteration printed out cleaner and all the dimensions are correct now. The color is called "Pearl Mouse". I think it looks a bit better in person, but I'm still on the fence about it and wondering if I should have printed it in Galaxy Black like I was originally thinking.

The Magnetic bite took clip was delayed and won't be here until Friday. So I should be able to try the whole hydration solution out then.

PS. I built the table under the cup, too

It feels very solid with a full tank of water.
I'm not worried about this holding up. It feels more than up to the task. I'm actually surprised at how strong this stuff seems to be.

Wmacky · Sep 17, 2020

Nice! I'll take one that fits a beer can..........

RCHeliguy · Sep 17, 2020

Wmacky said:
Nice! I'll take one that fits a beer can..........

https://www.amazon.com/EZ-DRINKER-Beer-Guzzler-Helmet

I decided to put this up on Thingaverse. Apparently there is a 24 hour wait period before anything shows up there.

RCHeliguy · Sep 18, 2020

Today I decided to print PLA on the textured bed to make a simple 40x40 profile end cap. The textured bed is a bit thinner and I had to drop the first layer height down a bit.

The print detached only a couple layers thick. PLA doesn't appear to stick to the textured bed without help so I got to try out the glue stick for the first time and that worked like a champ.

However from the failed print I could definitely tell the textured look was perfect for this application.

This end cap is downloaded from Thingaverse, but I printed it so it would match my cup holder.

Glue, finished print, and the failure.

Matching End Cap for my cup holder

And this is why. I decided I MUCH prefer having this come over my shoulder so it doesn't interfere with my right arm at all if I'm rowing gears. The magnetic bite tube arrives today so I can try this out. I "might" create a custom aluminum angle to replace the two corner braces at the bottom.

I still need to do a motion check with my NLRv3 to make sure this is out of the way enough.

That is a 320mm or ~12.5" long piece of 40x40.
It seems to be a very good size and it's location does not interfere with the full range of NLRv3 motion with my installation.

LeeHetherington · Sep 18, 2020

Next up, wiring this to your drink button on wheel

RCHeliguy · Sep 18, 2020

I saw this and like the idea of having labels that can be easily changed out.
I think I'll consider that in my next button box design.
I'm looking to create a very 3D surface for my buttons and switches to make things easier to find in VR.

Atak_Kat · Sep 18, 2020

I haven't seen that video, but I've had a similar idea for years. Never followed through on it though.
Slightly different though.
I love my button box, but different games have different functions.
Post man just delivered some items that will help me move forward on my idea. Just a matter of time and motivation.

Emery · Sep 18, 2020

Labelmaker is quick-change. Peel off old label, print new label, stick new label on.

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Ruttman98 · Sep 18, 2020

Looks great! Not counting the amortization on the 3D printer, about how much did the end cap cost in material to print?

80/20 makes these things very dear at approx. $1.50 each.

Matching End Cap for my cup holder

View attachment 406991

RCHeliguy · Sep 18, 2020

I was actually thinking about how much I've paid for end caps when I printed this out.

Based on a spool coast of $25, Prusa Slicer estimated 11 cents as shown below.

BTW I consider this 3D printer a tool/toy so I don't worry too much about amortization

RCHeliguy · Sep 18, 2020

Emery said:
Labelmaker is quick-change. Peel off old label, print new label, stick new label on.

I've got a label maker which I do use, but I would like something more finished and maybe framed for appearances.

Ruttman98 · Sep 18, 2020

RCHeliguy said:
I was actually thinking about how much I've paid for end caps when I printed this out.

Based on a spool coast of $25, Prusa Slicer estimated 11 cents as shown below.

View attachment 407051

BTW I consider this 3D printer a tool/toy so I don't worry too much about amortization

I like the way you think!

RCHeliguy · Sep 18, 2020

My loop and magnetic clip got here and it all seems to work as planned.

The magnet is solid enough that it doesn't come lose on it's own, but it's easy to grab for a drink and then pops back pretty easily

Very happy with this solution!

Here is a link to my Thingaverse cup holder files.

SimRig Camelbak Cup holder by RCHeliGuy

Sim Racing hydration solution. This cup holder takes two M8 x 16 bolts to secure it to the base of a 40 series profile like the SimLab P1. Take a 1000ml / 32 oz Camelbak Eddy water bottle Add a CamelBak Eddy Hands-Free Adapter ( 28" long ) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B5EADCK And a...

www.thingiverse.com

Atak_Kat · Sep 22, 2020

Just wanted to show you an idea based on what I'm working on re:Button Box labels.
Basically, I got one of those craft-cutters (I got the Silhouette Cameo 4, but there are other brands as well) because I wanted to try my hand at making vinyl decals. I had this idea to make a template/overlay for the button box a long time ago, but never had a good/easy way to do it. The craft-cutter has opened some doors that I didn't think about when I bought it.

What I've done is basically use a white card-stock piece at the back, with cutouts for the buttons.
Then, I did an additional Vinyl cutout with the lettering (and the boxes where the white shows through), so the white shows through.

First attempt is below, which obviously needs improvement. Letters are a bit too small and imperfect, so more experimentation needed. The other idea is to make white boxes as I've done on many of the buttons, and just run the white page through a printer to print the text before putting on the vinyl overlay.

The idea is to make a separate template for each game that I use the button box. Then, just lay the template onto of the button box, easy. Probably add some magnets just to keep it tightly in place. If something needs changing, just edit the template, print, and doesn't take long before you have a new template.

Just a first attempt, so lots of things to improve here re quality. Pics below of the template, then attached to the button box, and then another just of a vinyl decal I made (just for fun)

Maybe it's helpful for some other ideas. Great to follow your build thread as I've gotten many ideas from it. Thanks

RCHeliguy · Sep 22, 2020

Nice work!

At the moment, I want to use my 3D printer for the front panels because I want to create something I've never seen before, a fully sculped button box. So I am very much going away from having a flat front panel.

For example I want to recess the joy sticks and I want to recess the switches. I love the dash that HoiHman has created that use D-rings between switches as tactile dividers when you are in VR and I'm thinking I can get that same effect by recessing the switches. I may actually extend some buttons out.

I could even see playing around with modeling clay while experimenting with different designs. It's possible that I prototype in clay then model in Fusion 360 and print a PLA mold to layup with fiberglass. I haven't tried to limit how I do this.

BTW I couldn't leave well enough alone with my hydration solution and ordered a new Camelbak eddy with black cap and some 3/8" black/red woven sleeving for the water tube. Maybe overkill, but I think the bottle will definitely look cooler and I think the sleeving will add, but won't know until I see it in person.

Atak_Kat · Sep 22, 2020

Looking forward to your solution. The VR part clearly isn't dealt with in my prototype, but maybe others will find it interesting.
I'm really liking the craft cutter. I'm looking around my house for things to cover in vinyl, or decorate with decals!!
Another one below, in the style of the driver flag/name that is usually on race cars (some white showing on the flag edge, will take care of that later). I have it on the long base rail under my seat on the P1. Lots of fun to make stuff like this and it's a LOT easier than I ever thought. These cutters have WAY more precision than I ever thought.

Good luck.

Atak_Kat · Sep 23, 2020

Another idea for you.

I really appreciate your thread and the build updates. Lots of great ideas, and thanks for sharing all that.

I remember that you have the Pro-Sim shifter. Which I also have (that's another story...)
But personally cosmetics are almost as important to me as quality/function. And one thing I really don't like is the RED parts that are on the pro-sim. It just clashes with all the rest of my equipment and annoys me.

So, again, vinyl to the rescue. I covered a good portion of it with matt black vinyl, including the areas that were red inside the plexiglass-window (that took a bit of time...)

Result is below. Hopefully you find it interesting, and just another idea to share that you or someone else might find helpful.