Mobile Driving/Flying Cockpit with Motion and Tactile ( Build )

This morning I started in iRacing with VRS got my time within 3 seconds of the VRS time.

Refilled my water bottle. Then I joined a busy practice session. The track conditions were a bit less sticky, after I adjusted for that I dropped another 1.5 seconds off my time. Have been trying to follow the line from faster drivers as long as I can keep them in sight.

Starting to get into a groove.

Really enjoying this, but need to start driving more frequently if I'm going to get anywhere.

Getting consistent lap to lap times and I'm staying on the track.

Fixed that picture! I feel much younger now :)

Ergos_6195.jpg


Edit: Going back in tomorrow morning and hope to get at least 2 races in. Hiked today and have a couple Margaritas in me now, so I'm officially done for the day!
 
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I did play a bit with angling the exhausts.

15 degrees.
AngledExhausts.jpg


Also thought about individual exhaust pipes where you could swivel them to make them point up, down, left, right or some combination.

exhaustexperiment.jpg


I do think many people would prefer to just place the exhausts where they want to so I made them available as individual pipes that can be positioned to taste.


I'm not printing any more exhausts out.
 
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I think I'm going to focus on my driving for a while.

One thing I've noticed is that when I start driving more frequently I start wanting to add more brake pressure and when it's been a while I want less.

There is an issue with this. The NLRv3 does have a limitation. I mostly hear this from people with HE Ultimate's running near 100kg of brake pressure. The NLRv3 will just stop mid race when you push too hard.

I'm running 55kg for 100% brake right now and the NLRv3 seems OK with that, but I think I have hit it that limit before when I pushed on the brake well past what I need for 100%.

I also end up adding configuring more force on my SC2 the more frequently I drive.
 
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Is that pedal pressure? If so, that's a LOT of pedal pressure.

In my spec miata (full racing slicks), I reach full-lockup at ~40kg (85 lbs) at the pedal. That amounts to ~180kg at the master cylinder pushrod (4.5:1 ratio brake lever), and ~1600psi in the hydraulics.

Those numbers are all from using a relatively non-aggressive / modulable pad. More aggressive pads require less pressure.
 
An F1 car uses 200-300 lbs of pressure which is why the HE Ultimates go as high as 140kg.

I've owned and autocrossed a Miata. Everything about it is very light weight.

I never had slicks on my car, but I did have some very sticky Yokohama's on it. Keep in mind it was a 91' Miata and this was in the early 90's.

The extra pressure helps you to modulate the brakes better.

From what I understand 95kg-120kg or 200-260 lbs is not an uncommon brake pedal pressure for many race cars.
 
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I think I'm going to focus on my driving for a while.

One thing I've noticed is that when I start driving more frequently I start wanting to add more brake pressure and when it's been a while I want less.

There is an issue with this. The NLRv3 does have a limitation. I mostly hear this from people with HE Ultimate's running near 100kg of brake pressure. The NLRv3 will just stop mid race when you push too hard.

I'm running 55kg for 100% brake right now and the NLRv3 seems OK with that, but I think I have hit it that limit before when I pushed on the brake well past what I need for 100%.

I also end up adding configuring more force on my SC2 the more frequently I drive.

Yeah, I occasionally get that. It will pause for a few seconds if I break too hard. Oddly only in ACC though. I think that might have something to do with the fact that I struggle to get a sense of deceleration in ACC so I keep pressing the pedal harder and harder but don't feel like I'm slowing down. Can't work out what it is about that sim that does that but every other sim is fine.

I run my HE Sprints at about 55kg fyi. Though it's worth bearing in mind that I believe that figure is the amount of pressure on the load cell, and will depend on the pivot point, so it's not necessarily showing how much force you leg is giving. Therefore comparisons with real cars are a bit irrelevant, as far as I know...

Edit to add: I've now set up a brake pressure bar on my dashboard so I know when I've got to 100% and don't keep pushing.
 
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I'm also running 55kg and in VR in iRacing I have a display showing my throttle and brake as well. But I don't look at it much.

The actual pressure depends on a lot of things including the lever arm multiplier by running the brake pedal face high or low.

But I have had times where I just slammed the brakes as hard as I could. Not showing any composure doing that, but it happens.
 
So I was looking at this the other day and wondering if this is worth a try.


The issue I ran into is that my straps are much longer than his are, but I thought if I could find a way to connect this in a different way...

The Bottom Section looks pretty good. In fact I love how the seam between the two pieces disappears.
BungeeClamp_6226.jpg


The second part is printing now and will clamp over the belt buckle on the back and secure the bungee opposite to the bottom. I'll see if this will work in the morning.

BungeeBuckleClamp.jpg
 
The top part is WAY too bulky and ugly! But I like the bottom part.
bulky_6227.jpg


I think this will be much cleaner.
If I like how this works, I'll trim the hooks off the bungee cords and it should look very clean.

CleanerBungeeHolder.jpg
 
I definitely like this design better.

BungeeClamp_6230.jpg


I added M5 inserts in the spindle that fits in the webbing loop behind the buckle.
There are captured M8 nuts holding the front on.

BungeeClampAssembled_6232.jpg


This bungee was overstretched just a bit and went ahead and cut the hooks off of it to see how that would work. I have a lot of slack in the shoulder straps so I can tighten this quite a bit if I want. I expect to need to experiment with it a bit.

The bottom was just a little shallow for the 30mm bolts and needed washers, so I'm reprinting a new head to the base clamp that add takes a few mm to the bolt hole so I can mount them flush along with the 2nd base clamp and 2nd buckle clamp so I can test this out tomorrow.

BungeeSet_6233.jpg


BTW, you might notice that the faux exhaust pipes were in the way of this and had to at least come off for now.
 
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This morning's print.
BungeePrint_6236.jpg


Add the M5 threaded inserts.
BungeeClampParts_6238.jpg


Test fit everything.
BungeeParts_6239.jpg


The shoulder harness straps have about a foot of strap available on the front buckles, so there is a lot of room to add tension adjusting the back buckles. I just need to get an idea of how much travel I need to account for.

Compared to Will Ford's solution, I like the fact that my harness straps are still secured to the seat bracket and the tensioning mechanism is separately adjustable.

Now to test this out!

BungeeClampsInstalled_6241.jpg
 
This is a really beautiful RIG.

Is it possible to record a movie of the operation of the entire system and all its versions, improvements?

I've been planning to record a video tour for a little while. In fact I had tripods sitting in our media room long enough that my wife finally asked me to put them away.

A video covering the last two years of modifications would end up being a collage of pictures with voiceover description. Let me see if I can get a tour done first. It may have to wait until I have a bit more free time which currently looks like April.

tripods_6056.jpg
 
That's my round 330mm Rally wheel and I've never had any issue with it even with the seat mover. My legs are on either side of the wheel.

All I can say is that it works and it's comfortable.

I'm just a bit over 6' tall.
 
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The verdict is in. These particular bungee cords are WAY too stretchy and I couldn't feel a thing. I need to try something much stronger before trying this again.
 

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