Inexpensive transducers for simvibe

JeffL · Aug 20, 2014

Some of the guys in the club were asking about some affordable transducers for Simvibe.

I have $50 sub and the 4 pack 16 0hm minis ($44) drive in 2 zones by 2 - $20 lepai amps and not even close to using all the power. Actually just the large shaker and one amp would be sufficient but....

The company that makes the transducers is Dayton Audio but the best price is from Parts Express

http://www.parts-express.com/cat/tactile-transducers-exciters-bass-shakers/18
Have fun.

asteroulis · Jul 10, 2016

Yes indeed if you are not using really hungry transducers then it's a very cost effective solution with many uses.
I had mine two amps delivered a while ago and the courier had heavily damaged them. I had not inspected the boxes upon arrival and now they dont take responsibility.
It seems it will take a while for me to have my fun now.
Have fun with yours!

Mr Latte · Jul 27, 2016

removed as Simvibe related.

bunnsnow · Aug 20, 2016

OK, so I think my head is about to explode after reading through all the posts across the 17 pages

haha.

Big thanks to everyone for their input. Especially JeffL

I think I have sort of decided on the following but wanted to confirm the 2x transducers look ok for the amp

2x Sine Live Bass-Pump III Transducers (1x for pedals, 1x under seat)
1x Eaglerich Lepai268 100W12V Amplifier

Does it matter what guage speaker cable I use?

I have onboard motherboard 7.1 audio which I will use for simvibe. I then have a headset which uses it's own USB sound card which I will use for system audio.

If I am understanding things correctly. I connect 3.5mm jack to green audio output on motherboard into red/white RCA on the amplifier. I then connect the pedal transducer to amplifier right channel and seat transducer to amplifier left channel. Then configure simvibe in extension mode.

Many thanks for your input........

JeffL · Aug 21, 2016

WIre size ain't that important for short runs. wouldn't use a single thread of copper but you know.

For the last part all yes.

bunnsnow · Aug 21, 2016

JeffL said:
WIre size ain't that important for short runs. wouldn't use a single thread of copper but you know.

For the last part all yes.

That's great. Thanks very much Jeff. I will purchase the Transducers and Amp and get everything setup

DriftMachine · Aug 21, 2016

Don't think the amp will have enough power, but let me know.
I bought 3 Behringer iNuke 1000's and they are underpowered on my daytons.
For now I saving up for something a lot stronger.

That transducer seems similar in build to the Aura and Daytons so that seems like it would work fine.

bunnsnow · Aug 21, 2016

Thanks Drift machine. From my understanding power isn't really an issue with transducers, it's efficiency? I'm not clued up with this though. What sort of power do i need to run the 2x transducers I linked?

JeffL · Aug 21, 2016

DriftMachine said:
I bought 3 Behringer iNuke 1000's

sorry but that is crazy, crazy overkill.

JeffL · Aug 21, 2016

I could run dual quad 18" sub cabinets for whole band with one of those. LOL. You are doing something wrong friend if they under power your dayton transducers, seriously.

JeffL · Aug 21, 2016

Just a thought, if you are not getting powerful vibrations with those amps, you might be getting phase cancelling on your rig. If you have two of the same frequencies with opposite phase they will cancel as if there is no sound. That phasing can come from incorrect wiring, signal delay, hum cancelling, something to look into

DriftMachine · Aug 21, 2016

JeffL said:
Just a thought, if you are not getting powerful vibrations with those amps, you might be getting phase cancelling on your rig. If you have two of the same frequencies with opposite phase they will cancel as if there is no sound. That phasing can come from incorrect wiring, signal delay, hum cancelling, something to look into

Just one transducer with that amp bridged does not bring either my aura or dayton to its fullest potential. I am not saying I need to run at full power, but I have no head room. I could use my rmb 1066 and I would be set, btu Iam using that amp for my sound.

I am running 2 transducers per amp, because I need one channel per transducer to do what I need. It still clips at 60%. I am probably using about half the transducers potential. Bridge is not any more powerful because it clips like crazy unless wired in series. Then that's no good for what I need anyways. What you seen in my vid is the amp in parallel at 2 ohm at 50% and it was clipping.

Also when hooking up to my a 100 watt max rated sub the iNuke does not max the sub. According to my figures my iNuke 1000's are over rated and the true rating is probably only 40 watts rms a channel bridged at 4 ohms. My Rotel rmb 1066 has more power per channel than these crappy iNukes. I would say this is the worst brand name amp I have ever bought.

JeffL · Aug 21, 2016

If you are clipping that amp at 50% it's your input signal that is too high or distorted. and although Behringer isn't a macintosh and those amps may not handle massive overpowering they are relatively clean. Honestly it doesn't make a lot of sense but I will wish you luck. Just make sure your impedance is matched and you have a clean input signal.

JeffL · Aug 21, 2016

One other thing those amps should be fully cranked and your input signal adjusted most pa amps have a volume setup as attenuators.

JeffL · Aug 21, 2016

I haven't answered a lot on this thread lately, but remember I started this thread as a way for people to get into an entry level inexpensive solution. I spent way too many years doing audiophile level gear for studio and live venue applications and I get bored of that really quick. LOL. So keep having fun and don't spend too much money cause you don't need to.

bunnsnow · Aug 22, 2016

Quick question JeffL if poss

with the config i posted earlier. Do you think a low pass filter is a requirement? Seen some talks about these on other forums. Not entirely sure what they are/do or if required. Thanks

bunnsnow · Aug 22, 2016

I was looking at these

JeffL · Aug 22, 2016

I guess you are not using simvibe then. With simvibe it's not necessary. If just audio then some kind of crossover (sweep-able preferably ) could be helpful.

A low pass filter is just frequency block, exactly as stated "low pass" it picks a frequency point and only lets signal below that point thru. Sweepable means you can pick the point. Just a version of an equalizer. Turning off treble is a simple form of lowpass filter
'

bunnsnow · Aug 22, 2016

Ahh no worries. I intend on using simvibe so won't worry about it

DriftMachine · Aug 22, 2016

JeffL said:
If you are clipping that amp at 50% it's your input signal that is too high or distorted. and although Behringer isn't a macintosh and those amps may not handle massive overpowering they are relatively clean. Honestly it doesn't make a lot of sense but I will wish you luck. Just make sure your impedance is matched and you have a clean input signal.

The point of my post was these throw away amps like Behringer often overstate their ratings for the sake of marketing. I was not expecting Mac quality

I am certain my input levels are fine. I am also certain my wiring is correct. When I tested everything with my Yamaha HTR 5750 or my Rotel RMB 1066 both have enough to power it. Both amps are pretty weak, so I was disappointed the iNuke was not overloading the sub or transducers I was testing it with. Even more so it was clipping at half power. I can put 3 subs (1ohm) in parallel on my 1066 and not clip it at max power. I have toasted numerous subs with my 1066 which is only a 60 watt amp. Yet even at say the true 170 rms the behringer claims it cant max out a 50 watt sub. This would explain why I was so disappointed with the iNuke. I knew buying it it was not 1000 watts, but I seen a 170 rms rating which should make my 1066 seem weak.

That terrible youtube vid I posted was the iNuke amp at its max potential in parallel(2ohms). I like to be able to run at 40% to 60% power and be using 90% of any driver or transducers potential at that output level. If I have a 50 watt rms driver then I usually want a 120 watt rms amp or better. I am not sure you get what I am trying to do, but this works very well for heat and sound quality. You get get amazingly clean sound out of a low quality amp if you only use half of or less of its power. These behringer's have a lot of background noise if hooked to anything other than low frequency drivers. I will be selling these hunks of junk as soon as I find something to replace them with.

My rig works fine, I just want more power. I know I am not getting all my transducers are capable of.

JeffL · Aug 22, 2016

Most behringer stuff is rated higher than it is but not that much, no commercial consumer grade amp is rated properly. (If you think $150 amp is throwaway well than throw them over here lol). And if you trust speaker rating more than amp rating it just means your rationalizing your signal path.

You most definitely want to run those amps at 100 percent. They are attenuated single stage amps. meaning the amps are running full all the time and your lowering amp volume on the output, the volume knob isn't amplifying the signal it is attenuating it. So when the knob is on 10 it has least amount of processing. with least amount of THD

If you want to spend money, have at it. And also it sounds like your trying to convince me on how to use amps, with all due respect, I don't need to be educated on that. Thanks