Help picking 4 x small tactile transducers and 3 x amplifiers

super kermit · Jul 25, 2021

Hi All
I want to add 6 x tactile transducers on the cheap to my rig.
NLR Next Level Racing GTtrack Simulator Racing Cockpit.

I already have 2 x buttkicker mini LFEs that I will keep.
https://thebuttkicker.com/buttkicker-mini-lfe/

Software might be;
sim hub OR andres shop

I need
4 x other small tactile transducers
3 x amplifiers to run all 6 x transducers (all @4ohm)

Amazon, aliexpress or ebay as sources are perfect.
Thanks

StuyoDGr8 · Jul 26, 2021

Hello,

As I had the same issues as you, but did not want to spend too much money on amps I went the Aliexpress way - bought 3 C100H 24V4A 2x100 amps as they have 2 x TPA3116D2 amp chips. My decision was based on some Youtube test with 50W Auras - I should say that am pretty satisfied with them. I am running currently 4x 50W 4Ohm Auras in chassis mode powered by two of the amps, the third one will be used to power 4 Dyton 40W small exciters , two by two in series for additional effects.

As additional bonus these amps use USB connection (built in sound card) - directly controlled by SimHub as three separate devices. I am powering them with a big 24V Led lights PSU - the only thing I need to do is put the main switch on and everything works right away - SimHub remembers the amps by device ID so it always connects them in the same order as configured.

super kermit · Jul 27, 2021

Some great points StuyoDGr8

Main Q is the amplifier though I really like your idea.

One amp to drive all 6 or 3 x amps to drive two each (prefer one as easier and looks neater).

Is there a wiring diagram anywhere?

Does sim hub use just a stereo output or more? - Or as you are using USB is this just easier (I might need to use a USB HUB though)

Do you have a link and explanation of how to power them with a big 24V Led lights PSU and if possible a link to it?

Now going for ALL Buttkicker mini LFEs. (6 in all as the AURAS are too expensive to ship from the USA and are equally price to mini LFEs once postage is factored in)

https://thebuttkicker.com/buttkicker-mini-lfe/

One on each corner, one under the pedals and one under the seat.

Using SIMHUB licence paid

https://www.simhubdash.com/?sfw=pass1627251412#

StuyoDGr8 · Jul 27, 2021

For me selecting the Auras was easy - me living in Europe I can source everything from EU and they were much cheaper from Butt Kickers. I ordered everything from https://www.soundimports.eu/ . My setup is 4 x 50W Auras and 4 x Dayton Audio DAEX32EP-4 40W exciters.

You will have to calculate also power requirements on the shakers. As the LFE is rated at 50W you can drive it also from the smaller Amp which has 50W per channel, but price point being very close better take the 2x100 version - you will be better off with having some headroom in the wattage.

Based on what you wrote, you want 4 shakers in the corners and one below pedals and one below seat. For this you would definitely need 6 channels - two driving the front ones, two driving the rear ones and two driving the rest two shakers.

The proposed amp uses its built in sound card - you do need any sound output on your PC. SimHub recognizes it as separate sound device - you will need to plug in only the USB cable.

Wiring the shakers themselves is easy as you will have one per channel. In my setup is more complicated, as I will be running the small exciters 2 by 2 in series - they will have total of 8Ohms and 80Watts - this is borderline for the 2x100 Wat amp, but I think it will handle it.

Here is more on shakers wiring - https://www.aperionaudio.com/blogs/...-to-install-bass-shakers-in-your-home-theater

For powering the Amps you can use only 24V PSU. The main question here is to calculate how much drain you will need. Using 6x50W LFEs you will need 300Watt at minimum, this would mean at least 12A 24V PSU. Here also would be good idea to provide a little headroom, but either way the bass shakers in general will never run at full power.

Wiring diagram for power is simple - just connect the three AMPs in parallel to DC +/- in the PSU.

Bottomline here is that you need 6 channels - this would mean either 3 x 2channnel amps or single 6 channel one. I went the 3 amps way as this was much cheaper with the aforementioned amps.

This way you will have 4 channels for every wheel which can be used with stereo effects and you will have additional Front/Back channel for extra mono effects.

Mr Latte · Jul 28, 2021

@StuyoDGr8
May I chip in here, I would be interested to get your own personal experiences in how you personally find the Aura compares with the Exciters on your seat. How or what effects do you use on each (if any differently)?

Factors To Consider
Now I don't know if you are using DSP to better configure their output more to your taste or rig materials to help with reverb etc? Also my advice would not be to wire them in series. Firstly as amplification for them is not that expensive, it's worth considering to grow your configuration to become something better over time but from a plan, that it can expand in time and be much better than the traditional CM-based installations.

In applying the approach that you have, (of wiring in series) for the seat, then you defeat part of the purpose these units can be used for. An advantage that we cannot achieve with units like the Aura so easily.

What am I talking about?
Well if someone has 4-6-8 exciters on a seat installed. As Simhub is unlike other "Tone Generation" based software. It is not limited by the number of channels or how/where we map effects. So with Simhub and with the exciters concept, I shared in using them on a seat. We have total control of what effects we send to each individual unit.

If of course, you wire in series then those become a duplicate reducing this capacity of what effects you can route to each unit. The primary benefit of using more than 4 exciters on a seat is that we can keep RPM/SPEED separated from other positional or stereo effects. Therefore from an effects output perspective, we can avoid, like in typical installations multiple/highly constant effects operating on the same transducer which can kill the detail. This can be a big performance changer in how good the tactile you feel for different effects can be, letting the user feel in more detail a greater number of effects at one time, even with budget-based hardware.

Effects Mapping / Beyond The Norm
Now you can map units for specific roles but also map certain scenarios to output over whatever units you want. No restrictions in the creativity of the distribution of the effects. Applying delay or having effects start from the bottom to top of the seat. An example is of "speed-based" effect layers that move up the seat as the speed increases. and falls under braking/deceleration . Totally impossible with traditional CM-based installation.

The other benefit of having multiple transducers placed over a seat to different body regions is that we can achieve a better spread of a specific "effect layers" by mapping its output to multiple or all units. These specific layers could be for "impacts" or max "rpm" as examples and this avoids needing to crank the volume on a single set of units or cause a "hotspot" or discomfort with that higher gain. Instead "Max RPM" as an instance can be output to ALL units in a seat, not only 2 from a CM installation. So you can generate "highlight" scenarios with mapping to suit your own preferences.

One Installation / Multiple Mapping Profiles
It is possible with this approach to then play about with the mapping of effects. Trying different options for how where you want different effects to output. The user can create multiple configurations of how/what/where effects are being routed to the different exciters/transducers. Then easily load whatever profile they want. This gives the user much more variation and options over a typical CM-based installation limited to only 2 channels front and rear.

HOT TOPIC / DEBATE
A CM installation is ALWAYS limited by the performance capabilities of the units used and CROSSTALK affecting the vast MAJORITY of rig installations. So the user is not getting "good separation" or "independent/positionable" feedback felt in the pedals or seat. It is fantasy in most cases that they may believe this is the best approach and mainly as it has become a trend.

HIGH PERFORMANCE
To obtain what tactile can truly bring in immersion requires hardware that is capable of outputting the 1-200Hz bass range. It should be a primary goal to work towards, owning hardware that can accomplish this and combine it with multi-exciters for what they also can bring in effects distribution over a seat. Not just seeking to go out and have 4/6/8 units in a CM/EM-based combos.

These are key principles I found from testing multiple approaches to installing tactile in the last 2 years of tests/research that let us take "Tactile Immersion" beyond the old way of thinking like in how CM is supposedly the best approach when clearly it is not the best approach for performance and also not suitable to achieve/maintain multichannel output for most rigs anyways.

It is amazing the number of people, I see that have tactile or coming into it, 'that think' they have good tactile. In using budget CM installations, yet they are nowhere close to the potential in feeling from effects the "full dynamic bass range" and what this brings in the quality of immersion achievable.

Mr Latte · Jul 28, 2021

super kermit said:
Some great points StuyoDGr8

Main Q is the amplifier though I really like your idea.

One amp to drive all 6 or 3 x amps to drive two each (prefer one as easier and looks neater).

Is there a wiring diagram anywhere?

Does sim hub use just a stereo output or more? - Or as you are using USB is this just easier (I might need to use a USB HUB though)

Do you have a link and explanation of how to power them with a big 24V Led lights PSU and if possible a link to it?

Now going for ALL Buttkicker mini LFEs. (6 in all as the AURAS are too expensive to ship from the USA and are equally price to mini LFEs once postage is factored in)

https://thebuttkicker.com/buttkicker-mini-lfe/

One on each corner, one under the pedals and one under the seat.

Using SIMHUB licence paid

https://www.simhubdash.com/?sfw=pass1627251412#

Bad idea to spend the money on 6x BK Mini
Even people that go for the BK Advance thinking it will perform much better @anton_Chez
Neither of those can properly deliver the low bass which is "ESSENTIAL" if you want the best quality in effects immersion.

Only the largest BK Concert and BK LFE (when controlled via DSP) should be considered for a rig that is to achieve high tactile performance and properly deliver low bass sensations. Even the more expensive Earthquakle Q10B with the additional (torque bracket) will not achieve the low bass in Simhub that the largest BK can.

Key Factor = Compare the Piston Weights (THIS IS IMPORTANT)

BK Mini
0.375lbs / 0.17Kg

BK Advance
1.45lbs / 0.45Kg

LFE / Concert
3.25lbs / 1.48Kg Piston

The largest model has a HUGE advantage in the energy and low bass it can reproduce.

The largest BK has almost 9x MORE weight in moving force than the BK Mini and @ 3x MORE weight than the BK Advance.

The BK Advance has approx 3x the amount of the BK Mini but @ 3x Less than the Largest BK has.
So we see from this how their performances may step up.

Recommendation
Best low bass = Large BK
Pair With TST units for improved detail and timing for mid-upper bass 60Hz+
Install additional Exciters for multichannel mapping in seat and harmonic reproduction of high bass 100Hz+

Ultimately the choice is yours.....
Want the brutal truth, 6x BK Mini on a small rig frame such as you have is gonna be wasted and can never properly maintain what CM is meant to bring regards independent felt suspension/tyres. It also won't get close to delivering quality in effects that a "Stage 1" solution I offer as a "recommendation" for a front/rear based tactile installation will achieve.

StuyoDGr8 · Jul 28, 2021

Mr Latte said:
vast MAJORITY of rig installations. So the user is not getting "good separation" or "independent/positionable" effect feedback felt

Hi Mr Latte,

Thank you very much for your input - either way most of the information I could gather about tactile was based on your thread in this forum.

I have put detailed description of how everything is mounted and separated in my Build Log thread here. I managed to eliminate most of the crosstalk, but still am looking into better vibration isolators for the seat/pedals - the one that I have currently are OK, but not that great.

For the time being I have only the Auras in CM mounted - the exciters were out of stock long time so they arrived late. As I am away these two months, the project is frozen for some time - I focused on getting the build log up and collecting more information how to proceed when I get back.

Most probably I will order 2-3 more amps based on your suggestion (as they are quite cheap) so they come from Aliexpress on time. One thing that is worth mentioning for the Amps - I tested them, the lowest output they can produce is 30Hz - not that great, but for the price they are OK. There is no built in DSP, I rely solely on SimHub configuration and cutoffs. Good point here is that everything is controlled over USB - the volume button does not work in this mode - all the levels are set directly in SimHub, which made my life easier. I am running at about 50% volume and the Auras are quite powerful - if I boost it a little up it gets unpleasant and is quite unnecessary - looks like the Amps are working well with these shakers.

On the topic of exciters - they came in just before I left, have four of them ready to be mounted, but for now only one Amp. The idea for mounting in series is only to save some time and get them working to start testing with positioning and effects. Later my plan was always to separate them and add more DAEX32EP-4s when figure out if the work well and I need them in more places.

For now the plan to mount the 4 exciters is as follows:

1. Having a Bride Hybrid seat I am planning on mounting two exciters on the metal side plates holding seat/back support
2. One for sure I would like to mount someplace around the shifter/handbrake assembly for gear effects
3. The fourth one will be mounted somewhere on the pedal heel plate most probably
4. The back exciters being symmetrical made me think about putting them in series - this I except will not be satisfactory, as most probably they will have different vibration propagation throughout the seat, but still would prefer to try and test it so I can make difference in other setups

Effect wise, I had the tactile for only two weeks - spend most of the time testing and dialing in the volume and placement of the Auras. For the time being I put only "Road Vibration" and "Road Impact" effects on the CM Auras. Managed to get satisfactory results, but can feel I am long way from what can be achieved. Most of the Auras are the same level, but I have issue with the Rear Right one - it needs much higher volume to reach the same output level. Measuring vibrations throughout the rig I suspect I just have too much mass mounted on the right side (my modded computer which is quite heavy is mounted directly on the rig) - this would be the first thing I will try to deal with.

Next steps would be:
1. Put the two exciters on the seat and test them in series or in two channels before final assembly
2. Test different mounting points on the seat to examine difference in position
3. Test feedback on pedals / shifter, delivered by single exciter

Frankly speaking my first idea is to have only two exciters - one in seat one in pedals, but them being quite long time out of stock I decided to order two more - just in case I decide to expand. Thus now comes my confusion where actually to put them. Either way I enjoy testing and making most of what I have, I presume it would be quite fun experience finding out a good setup for my rig.

Hope this long thread makes some sense, as now I am starting to get lost myself in it.
Thanks again for the pointers,
Cheers!

super kermit · Jul 29, 2021

Some great help here all.

Thanks

super kermit · Jul 30, 2021

Thanks MR Latte

Taking your advice.

Would this be good for the seat and pedal deck then as a premade solution?

Elite SRS ShakeCombo (includes SRS License for Bass Shaker) | simracingstudio

Save when you buy the SRS Elite ShakeCombo Kits include the following: 1x ShakeBox Elite 1x ShakeSeat 1x ShakePedal 1x ShakeBack Extra Layer of Padding (removable) on ShakeSeat SRS License for Shaking All cables Just plug-and-race Shakers tuning guide...

www.simracingstudio.com

and use the amp from above for Buttkicker Mini LFE under seat and pedal deck?

OR

Should I go the DIY way and buy pucks and USB amps?

I would like the amp to be USB so I can connect multiple units to the PC and have simhub do the thinking vs another soundcard.

21.34€ 40% OFF|Douk audio Hi Fi Bluetooth 5.0 Digitale Versterker Stereo 2.0 Ch Mini TPA3116 High power Amp Draadloze Audio ontvanger DC12V|digital amplifier|amplifier stereostereo amplifier mini - AliExpress

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Page Not Found - Aliexpress.com

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Keep the buttkicker mini LFE (1 front pedal deck with rubber isolation)

Add pucks to the seat to sit on?

+ small pucks for the pedal mod

super kermit · Aug 1, 2021

Page Not Found - Aliexpress.com

Now need a power source to run 5 or 6 x of these.

Thinking I could sell the NX1000D and use a pair of XY-C100H to drive the two Buttkicker mini LFEs?

Mr Latte · Aug 1, 2021

I had began to write a response but it then turns into far too much of the same repeated things I keep sayin.

Cheapo budget amps with built-in soundcards which cannot deliver under 30Hz = NO
Selling the one amp you have that includes DSP and can power any transducer/shaker on the market = NO SILLY

Considering to focus on the seat tactile first as it may bring more added performance = YES
Sell most of the cheapo tactile you have to buy a 2nd hand or new large BK LFE/CONCERT = YES
Combine with 4-6 exciters on seat 1-200Hz capability & multichannel mapping of effects = YES

Later add TST to combine with seat = YES
Later improve pedal tactile = YES

Best Performance / Price
If you want the best performance you can get for a low budget.
Then it is not with an SRS Cushion kit like some go out and buy.

I get it not all seats lets a person attach exciters but if you do then buy 4-6 of the recommended exciters, add them to a seat in positions as illustrated by others and discussed on the forums. These can work fine with budget amps but adding multichannel effects to a seat with the recommended exciter is much better than the 15W Dayton Puc an SRS Kit uses.

The exciters are limited on their own, but I have never recommended using them with the intent as always being individual units. Instead, we incorporate them with other units gradually if the person's budget is a factor.

Unlike a Dayton Puc the SRS kit uses, when combined with a large BK then they can also be used for harmonic detailing to add more body to certain effects generated sensations. This is because they are not like the Dayton Pucs which are limited to @80Hz so they bring no benefits with harmonics and upper frequency detailing when we add a more capable unit for lower frequencies.

When you combine the recommended exciters with a large BK then you have the cheapest solution to achieving 1-200Hz full dynamic bass and if you if want to ignore the importance of achieving that then you will never feel the true potential tactile can bring.

I have tried to clearly highlight a BK Mini has 9x less moving mass, a HUGE difference so why do you want to get rid of the quality amp you have and use dual BK Mini with a cheapo amp. This is even before taking into account (piston pang factors).

The price of 2x BK Mini is not a great deal away from the best performing BK models that are essential if you want the best experience in felt immersion.

Multi USB 2.0 Soundcards
Not recommended, use a 7.1 soundcard. lots of people want to go cheap, I dont see why it's not worth investing in a decent card but thats just me. My advice regardless is to place exciters on their own card. Then use the Simhub crossover to limit their output to @200Hz. Also means within Simhub you can have one 7.1 card for exciters and another 7.1 card for all the other units used. It helps with keeping track of what effects you map to each unit.

Consider the 4 channel Douk Audio amp if you want to cut costs. This way you have only 2 amps needed (2 PSU/Plugs) for upto 8 exciters, simple tidy affordable.

super kermit · Aug 1, 2021

Thanks Mr Latte

So

Keep NX1000D and put one buttkicker LFE on the seat itself. (isolate seat from frame?)

Buy 1 x DOUK amp (4CH)

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Add 4 x exciters to the seat itself.

1-DAEX 32EP-4 40W (these?)
2-DAEX30HESF-4 40W
3-DAEX32U-4
4-DAEX25FHE-4
5-Dayton Puck TT25

USB 7.1 soundcard

Creative Sound Blaster X3 External Sound Card

Creative 70SB181000000 Sound Blaster X3 Digital Audio Converter - Black : Amazon.com.au: Computers

www.amazon.com.au

Mr Latte · Aug 1, 2021

super kermit said:
Thanks Mr Latte

So

Keep NX1000D and put one buttkicker LFE on the seat itself. (isolate seat from frame?)

Buy 1 x DOUK amp (4CH)

63.78€ 40% OFF|Douk Audio Mini Bluetooth 5.0 Digitale Versterker Hifi 4 Kanaals Audio Amp Voor Stereo installatie Auto/Multi kamer Power Amp 50W * 4|Versterker| - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

Add 4 x exciters to the seat itself.

1-DAEX 32EP-4 40W (these?)
2-DAEX30HESF-4 40W
3-DAEX32U-4
4-DAEX25FHE-4
5-Dayton Puck TT25

Is there a USB 7.1 soundcard I can use to make life easier?

The NXD1000 if we use the DSP to boost its lower frequencies can power okay a large BK.
We recommend the 3000D model more as a longevity factor as it has additional wattage which keeps the amp running less close to its max capacity or limits. Even with the BK Mini well we can better tune those with the DSP but seriously getting rid of the BK Minis
to upgrade to the larger unit should be a priority.

32EP-4 or known as the "Thruster" model is generally deemed the best option for what we are doing. The others still could perform decently and yes do have output differences in their characteristics but the idea I tried to put across 2 years ago was more to get people to stick to fixed hardware solutions so any effects created/shared would feel as intended on peoples cockpits using the same installation approach. That idea is thwarted when you start having people attaching exciters to a seat using 3 types of models.

I believe a lot of guys on the Discord buy a certain budget 7.1 card but forget the model, so maybe ask users. Personally, I opted for a performance card for more assurance which may be excessive but I found the X3 to be the best have tried 4-5 cards. It's unique in its design and is USB C so can be used easily with other portable devices as well for headphones etc.

super kermit · Aug 1, 2021

Thanks Mr Latte

So

Keep NX1000D and put one buttkicker LFE on the seat itself. (isolate seat from frame?)

Buy 1 x DOUK amp (4CH)

63.78€ 40% OFF|Douk Audio Mini Bluetooth 5.0 Digitale Versterker Hifi 4 Kanaals Audio Amp Voor Stereo installatie Auto/Multi kamer Power Amp 50W * 4|Versterker| - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

OR

Could I use a home theatre 7.1 amp with optical input that was used instead of the DOUK?

This way I can add exciters to the pedals (three here)

Add 4 x exciters to the seat itself.

Soundcard

Creative 70SB181000000 Sound Blaster X3 Digital Audio Converter - Black : Amazon.com.au: Computers

www.amazon.com.au

cables for the 4 exciters

3.5mm to 2RCA Audio Auxiliary Adapter Stereo Splitter Cable

UGREEN 3.5mm to 2RCA Audio Auxiliary Adapter Stereo Splitter Cable AUX RCA Y Cord for Smartphone Speakers Tablet HDTV MP3 Player(3ft) : Amazon.com.au: Electronics

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Mr Latte · Aug 1, 2021

super kermit said:
Thanks Mr Latte

So

Keep NX1000D and put one buttkicker LFE on the seat itself. (isolate seat from frame?)

Buy 1 x DOUK amp (4CH)

63.78€ 40% OFF|Douk Audio Mini Bluetooth 5.0 Digitale Versterker Hifi 4 Kanaals Audio Amp Voor Stereo installatie Auto/Multi kamer Power Amp 50W * 4|Versterker| - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

Add 4 x exciters to the seat itself.

Soundcard

Creative 70SB181000000 Sound Blaster X3 Digital Audio Converter - Black : Amazon.com.au: Computers

Creative 70SB181000000 Sound Blaster X3 Digital Audio Converter - Black : Amazon.com.au: Computers

www.amazon.com.au

Yes, that will give you a very good basis to experience three important factors I see as necessary to advance tactile...

Applying multichannel effects to the body in the seat
Better experience stereo effects
Enabling you to experiment with effects for discovering/feeling and using 1-200Hz

You could if you want temporarily keep a unit for some feedback in pedals to add with what the seat brings in immersion. Some people like that but my recommendation is to focus on the seat first if needing to progress in steps.

anton_Chez · Aug 1, 2021

Well, I found this thread by accident, and bought a BK Concert big boy for what I think is a pretty decent price.

Thanks Mr Latte, I finally ended up with the big boy.......

super kermit · Aug 2, 2021

Sorry, in regards to the seat and the pedals;

Add 4 x exciters to the seat itself.

3 x to the pedals

1-DAEX 32EP-4 40W (these?)
2-DAEX30HESF-4 40W
3-DAEX32U-4
4-DAEX25FHE-4
5-Dayton Puck TT25

I may have missed which exciters to go for.

No Depth · Aug 2, 2021

super kermit said:
Sorry, in regards to the seat and the pedals;

Add 4 x exciters to the seat itself.

3 x to the pedals

1-DAEX 32EP-4 40W (these?)
2-DAEX30HESF-4 40W
3-DAEX32U-4
4-DAEX25FHE-4
5-Dayton Puck TT25

I may have missed which exciters to go for.

Almost positive he recommends the DAEX32EP-4. Basically these:

Unfortunately, they have been really difficult to get and are constantly out of stock(next shipment looks to be in mid-Sep, but those dates tend to get pushed out further often). I had to wait a few months earlier this year to get my hands on four to pair with the Douk M4 amp for my sim seat. They do the job well though.

I know tests have been run on the other options in other threads here, and they all came up short from more technically minded posters, but it didn’t seem like any were useless either. Just not quite as well rounded in use. Many have just tossed pucks under their seat cushions or attached to pedals and have come across happy.

Probably worth waiting, but checking in on their release as they sell quick in the tight window they finally are avail. In the meanwhile if you can just mount a larger transducer to your seat and/or pedals, that would be a pretty good alternative to live with. I have four exciters on seat + two BK(under seat and pedal deck). The exciters add a bit of pop and are noticeable, but the two big boys are really the ones you recognize effects from the most.

anton_Chez · Aug 2, 2021

If I could offer my own opinion here, that might help save some time and/or money. I've used a variety of tactile units, ranging from the exciters, aura bass shakers, BK mini's, Earthquake mini unit (MQB-1) and now I've just ordered a BK Concert large unit to add to the rig, just to give a little background.

Go straight for a decent sized tactile unit, with a good 2 or 4 channel amp straight off the bat. The ease of use of mounting and running a single large unit, from a decent sized amp is way better than mucking around with 4 little exciters, little amps and a bunch of cables running all over the place. You should be able to add a decent amount of effects even to a single unit since there is a bunch of overhead in the amount of power it can handle before it reaches its limits and the actual sensation you'll get should be awesome. I say should, since I have yet to try my large unit as it has not arrived.

I've made the mistake of messing around with little units, trying to get a good result from a budget oriented build. Since sim racing is nearly all I do now, it makes sense to spend the money once and enjoy the best tactile that you can. So, if you actually do have the money and the intention to run a decent tactile profile, definitely grab a single BK LFE and something like an NX1000D. That amp should be more than enough to power the unit, you have DSP control to get the most out of its low end and even a potential bridge mode should you find that a single channel does not offer enough power. You could then, if you found the need, add another unit to that amp, either left / right or front / rear config, for a more complete feedback.

You'd be looking at a decent initial outlay, but it almost guarantees that you don't really need to buy anything else from this point. If you're only looking at adding a decent level of tactile, without going overboard, you just mount the unit under your seat and you're done. It's clean, efficient and has a tonne of power that you're sure to make the best use of when compared to those little exciter models. I ran them with 2 x BK Mini LFE's and when I disabled the LFE's, even mounted directly onto the seat the little exciters could barely be felt.

So I know intend to run 1 x BK concert on the seat from the NX1000D, and keep the 2 x BK Mini's running from my little SMSL 2 channel amp which has been more than enough for these units. Eventually I think I'll end up with all units mounted directly on the seat, but at this stage I have 2 units on the seat (one being the Earthquake unit) and 1 Mini LFE under the pedals. Might remove the pedal one and run them both in L/R config rather than F/R.

Just my 2 cents since there seems to be shortages of the units you're seeking. It might give something to think about.

If I were to know that I'd end up with the rig I do now, I'd definitely skip all the middle ground and just get one large LFE unit with the NX1000D amp straight off. See how that suited me and most likely call it a day.

Novopaine · Aug 4, 2021

This probably isn't for the beginner, but here's an amp I decided to try out:

https://www.parts-express.com/WONDO...50-Class-T-Audio-Amplifier-Board-Only-320-335

Some highlights:
WONDOM AA-AB33182 4x100W at 4 Ohm Class D Digital Audio Amplifier Board STA508 (TK2050)
• Minimum impedance (per channel): 3.2Ω
• Output power (using 30V power supply): 64W x 4 @ 4Ω (1% THD+N), 108W x 4 @ 4Ω (10% THD+N)
• Frequency response: 20 to 20,000 Hz (±3 dB)
• DC power supply range: 10V to 27V

The down side is there is no integrated Gain control, no enclosure, and no included power supply. I bought a 24v 350watt Mean Well power supply for providing the juice. I may eventually purchase a separate gain control when I put everything into an enclosure.

I'm currently setting my max gain with a multimeter and dialing it back for headroom. For anyone that's curious, the formula is the square root of watts (RMS) x impedance. This gives you the AC voltage on the speaker leads to measure. So 50w RMS x 4 = 200. The square root gives you 14.14 volts AC. I played a 60Hz tone and set my max levels via software (SimHub).

So far it's more than adequate for what I need, and can do 50watts at 4ohms with no issue. My only real concern is the longevity of the capacitors used, but I could always upgrade them if I want to. I won't be pushing the amp to it's limit, so it should last for a while.