FFB Setting Explanations

[2scoops]

Inverted FFB:
Enable it if your wheel pulls in the wrong direction.

FFB Intensity:
Adjusts the overall strength.

Smoothing:
Filters out peaks in the FFB, for example when driving over big kerbs.
Increase it if you think your wheel makes too much noise over kerbs.
Decrease it if you think the FFB feels washed out.
Recommended setting: between 0 - 50%



Steering Force Intensity:
Adjusts the forces generated from cornering.
Increase it to make the wheel stiffer and to get more feedback when the car is oversteering.
Decrease it if you experience clipping.
Recommended setting: between 100 - 150%

Understeer:
Controls how light the wheel will get when understeering.
Decrease if you loose force too quickly when entering a corner.
Increase if you can´t feel the grip loss when entering a corner.
Recommended setting: between 50 - 100%


Vertical Load:
Controls how strong vertical forces on the tyres are reflected in the FFB.
Mostly used to feel bumps on the road.
Increase to feel more details of the driving surface.
Decrease if bumps are too strong.
Recommended setting: between 100 - 200%

Lateral Force:
Controls how strong lateral forces on the tyres are reflected in the FFB.
Increase to make the wheel stiffer.
Decrease if the FFB looses too much detail (clipping).
Recommended setting: Between 25 - 75 %

Steering Rack:
Choose how much of the lateral forces are calculated using the steering rack of the car instead of the tyres.
Recommended setting: Personal preference





Engine Vibrations:
Intensity of vibrations generated by the engine of the car
Decrease if there is too much noise in the FFB
Increase to get more feedback from the engine.

Kerb Vibrations:
Adjust the amount of vibrations resulting from rumble strips (2D kerbs)
This setting does not affect forces coming from 3D kerbs (use vertical load & smoothing to adjust that).

Shift Effect:
Adjusts how strong the kick from shifting is.

FFB Meter
In the secondary controller settings you will find an option to bind a key for the FFB Meter.
Once enabled, the yellow line marks your minimum force setting, and the red line shows the maximum force.
The green graph displays the steering forces sent to your wheel.

If the graph exceeds the red line you are experiencing "Clipping"
Clipping means, that your wheel has reached the maximum output force and you won't feel any difference above that limit.

Minimum Force
The minimum Force Setting can be found in the FFB Settings Menu, and will allow you to amplify all the small FFB forces that your wheel might not be able to put out. That means small bumps and steering forces will be increased to a point where you can actually feel them through your wheel and thereby adding more details to your FFB.
This will also help eliminate the "dead center feeling" occurring with some of the wheels.

Slip Effect
This Effect simulates the shuttering of your tires as they struggle for grip,
which occurs for example during wheelspin, understeering, sliding and even on heavy braking.
Depending on the amount of grip as well as the rotation speed of your tires you will feel a vibration indicating that your tires are slipping.
The higher the rotation speed of your tires, the higher the frequency of the vibrations is.
The more grip your tires loose, the higher the amplitude of the vibration will be.


Stationary Friction
This will deal with the problem of wheels rotating by themselves if the car is stationary, for example in garage or on the starting grid.
This won't be an option you will find in the menu, and it only takes effect, if the car moves slower then a couple of meter per second.

FFB Multiplier
Since the FFB in R3E is based on the car physics (Tire load & grip + suspension geometry), different cars result in different FFB strength.
So in the past you might have found your perfect FFB settings for one car, only to find out they don't work as well with another car.
To avoid this, you are now able to adjust the cars individual FFB strength by changing the FFB Multiplier.
You will find this new Setting in the Car Setup>Steering Settings.
Increase the FFB Multiplier if a particular car feels too weak.
Decrease it, if the FFB of the car is causing heavy clipping.

Recommended Settings
1. Start by choosing the new default profile for your wheel in the Controller Profiles Menu. It contains presets for all the new settings.

2. To adjust the FFB strength individually per car, change the FFB Multiplier in the Car Setup>Steering Settings Menu

3. Depending on the Wheel you own, choose how much Clipping you want to allow.

• 
  
  
  • If you for example own a Logitech G27, you should aim for Mild Clipping values, in order not to loose too much of the overall FFB Strength.
  • If you own a high end, direct driven wheel you can easily set it up for Zero Clipping, for the maximum amount of detail.

 

[Dawks]

I've got a Logitech Momo wheel

Hey, PauL - I have the MOMO. Total n00b here and have found it great as a starter.

I've had problems setting up even the simplest thing, and the FFB ... because the way Logitech Profiler and In Game Settings interact ... that's just ... mysterious. Voodoo.
BUT after a heap of headache quality absurdity, I have it working about 80% sane.

What you're describing here is far more WRONG than anything I experienced.
Skip the subtle stuff. You have something basic out off wack.
Start from scratch. If you've created a custom Controller Profile, delete it.
Something very basic is nowhere near correct.

I appreciate your "stick at it" attitude!

At the risk of seeming rude: ReDo From Start.

p.s. whatever your OS is, can you see your wheel in Controllers? it's as though the game thinks that it is looking at a game pad or HOTAS.
BASICS!

 

[RasmusP]

EDIT: The ffb meter doesn't show The clipping of your wheel engine but of the inGame ffb range. I had high clipping so I lowered the ffb intensity to 30%. Wheel didn't have any resistance and I felt nothing but The clipping stayed!
So I lowered the other ffb parameters about 15% and I got no to mild clipping. I upped the overall strength back to 100% and had many more details as proposed.
So mix the the settings ti your liking but stay around or below the Red line! If you want to know what your wheel engine can do max: push the wheel Software (logitech profiler for example) to the max. I CAN'T EVEN HOLD THAT FORCE on my G27!

Original Post:
Thank you very much for this clean and very well done guide!
The German translations are a little bit confusing and I had no real idea what setting does what.
After reading your guide and have it open while I adjust the FFB (thank the r3e lord that we can do that while on track!) I found really good settings for me

 

[Manher]

Hi I have a question regarding inverted FFB, I have Fanatec CSW 2.5 and when i dont use inverted wheel after slight turn goes all way to left or right depends on turn. Is it normal?

 

[RasmusP]

Hi I have a question regarding inverted FFB, I have Fanatec CSW 2.5 and when i dont use inverted wheel after slight turn goes all way to left or right depends on turn. Is it normal?

Short answer: yes it is! I have to use inverted FFB too on the G27!
Some wheels are working the other way around. It's simple to find out which setting is needed. As you said the wheel is pushing to the outsides when going straight instead of centering. I tried it and it's so obviously wrong

Btw if you ever play Automobilista or rfactor 1 or 2: they have a FFB strength slider going from -100 to +100 %. You will need -100% there

 

[Manher]

Yeah and what bothers me for example there was video for GamerMuscleVideos where he shows FFB settings for RRE and he is saying that this inverted is actually bad one.
This the movie:

 

[RasmusP]

Yeah and what bothers me for example there was video for GamerMuscleVideos where he shows FFB settings for RRE and he is saying that this inverted is actually bad one.
This the movie:

Maybe he has somewhere a different setting or it got patched in the meantime?
I sometimes read that there is a difference in the FFB. No there isn't. It's just left and right swapped.
It's plain and simple like if you would steer to the left and the car goes to the right. It's a bit difficult to feel it because rumbling is rumbling but if the wheel wants to go crazy to one end while driving straight it's just wrong
AFAIK thrustmaster uses the non-inverted FFB.

 

[Manher]

Not sure about it, some time ago I own T300 and it was the same story

 

[RasmusP]

Not sure about it, some time ago I own T300 and it was the same story

Ah okay, I think I remember some post about that it got swapped but set as default or something...
Anyway: Don't let yourself be disturbed and set it how you think it's meant to be.

 

[Case_]

@Manher Regarding the GamerMuscle video, I can't find the exact timecode where he talks about inverted FFB, so not sure what he actually said, but to be honest, there's quite a few things in that video that are if not wrong, then at least debatable at best. Which is fairly normal for him. You really have to think of him more like an entertainer/comedian and less like a simracing expert that actually has deep knowledge of the things he's talking about.

 

[Manher]

Martin can you please tell in what part you think he is not right? It might help others who don't know what is his attitude.

 

[Case_]

Well, I'd have to watch the video again, it was just some random mentions here and there, but one thing that I kinda remember is he mentions that you should "never ever have any damper enabled on your wheel unless you're crazy" or something along those lines (and spring as well, if I remember correctly). Which is something that's subjective at best (hey, if you prefer a higher damper and a bit of spring, go ahead, I won't tell you it's crazy just because I like setting it a bit differently), and it also reinforces the old and on many wheels now also completely outdated notion of putting spring and damper in you wheel control panel to 0 for the supposedly best feeling FFB (while doing so might actually take away parts of FFB feel in some of the games).

So it was more stuff like that. Not right is perhaps a bit too strong, but debatable - yes.

 

[Manher]

Great thanks for replay, think this settings stuff is really painful for new ones in our hobby, I really like your point about damper. Actually yesterday i have discussion with my friend who is staring to simracing and he ask me nice question "why i cannot use some settings if they exist there, if someone put them there, it must be with some reason" that's why I started to ask about details because in can be very helpful to others.

 

[Case_]

I'd say that at least as far as R3E is concerned, starting with default wheel settings and default in-game settings for the given wheel will produce pretty good results. And then just go from there and experiment yourself, for example maxing out (or taking away) one setting at a time and see what has changed and how. Yes, it takes some time, but it's usually worth it if you want to understand the settings better and be able to dial in the FFB exactly the way you like it.

 

[UMC 22]

I might steal your settings as a baseline tomorrow though, since we'll have the same wheel. They seem to work for you as you've definitely edged ahead of me recently in terms of pace in most cars.

 

[Case_]

I blame my pedals for that as I finally have a more stable setup again tweaked more or less to my liking, following the few weeks of constant changes after I got rid of my modded DFGT ones - I got noticeably (and frustratingly) slower during that time.

Then again, I'm not really getting any faster in AMS or AC, so who knows

 

[UMC 22]

Then again, I'm not really getting any faster in AMS or AC, so who knows

Maybe it's me getting slower then?

 

[DND]

First thanks for the tips as it is amazing how my driving has improved by getting the wheel to feel more weighted and for me R3E provides an experience that is challenging and exciting. I recently found the FFB meter and have been monitoring my inputs that occasionally exceed the red but no straight red line readings. I have a Fanatec CSR wheel and pedals and noticed that running on the same track and sequence of turns with different cars get somewhat different readings and results, assuming I am taking a similar line and based on cars performance pushing it equally for my capability. Running the X-17 at Spa going through a rapid change of direction, as you would through 7-8-9, will occasionally be void of FFB and steering input and goes straight into the barrier while a lesser capable car has no issue.
Another issue is going from one car to another, the change of car sometimes looses it feel entirely. A simple power cycle of wheel seems to correct in most cases.
The wheel feels great..up to the point it doesn't.
I presume this is clipping, but what will reduce the effect without affecting the performance which is desirable for 99% of the time?
Please correct me, should I just adjust the multiplier for the car as the wheel feels good most of the time?
Should I just adjust the Steering Intensity down a tad?
How much does the response time between hardware and software factor into it?
Will upgrading to the CSW v2.5 for example correct the issue?

 

[Case_]

That doesn't sound like clipping. Clipping's where your FFB gets so strong you are no longer perceiving detail in the FFB, it doesn't completely disappear.

 

[DND]

Thank you Martin for the clarification, I was thinking clipping was interruption to the FFB. If the FFB meter is bouncing over and back above the red line, not constantly over, is this any need for adjustment?

 

[Case_]

If the FFB meter is bouncing over and back above the red line, not constantly over, is this any need for adjustment?

Depends on your wheel, how frequently you go over the red line (and under what circumstances) and also on your taste. Personally, with my T300, I can't really imagine my FFB going above the red line save on an occassion, since the FFB would be simply too strong for me if it did.