Dumbed down DD or Clubsport V2.5

I have a Next Level Racing F-GT. I really like the cockpit, and it is much sturdier than what it looks like in the pictures. They, NLR, state it can handle a direct drive wheel, but doing a web search shows mixed results. Some say they have no issue, and some say they have some flex. My question is this. Is it better to buy something like an Accuforce Pro V2 and turn it down to say 62% or get a Clubsport V2.5 and run it at 100%? This would produce 8nm of torque for each. Or is there more to it than that?
 
I just wanted to bump this as the wife is at least thinking about allowing me to upgrade my wheel. Would it be better to update to a direct drive wheel and turn the FFB down to a level my rig can handle (assuming it doesn't do fine with it), or buying something like the Fanatec CS 2.5?
 
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I have an SC1. IMHO it's very unlikely that you'll wanna run a 20+ NM DD wheel at 100%.
I'm using a DIY box section steel rig that I made 15 years ago and although I wanna upgrade to aluminum profile, I wouldn't go back to a belt drive for all the tea in China.
Just my 2c. :)
 
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While waiting for my TR80 to show up I mounted the new DD2 I just got on my Playseat Challenge and have left the torque key out. Man oh man is the DD worth it, the difference in detail is unreal, I'd heard about it but but always dismissed it as hype but this was like going from my CSL Elite with the feedback off to having the feedback dialed in perfectly. I can't imagine why I would but I'll never be able to not have a DD wheel again. Without the torque key it seems like the max output is about 8.5-8.9 NM so around what you are talking about which actually feels pretty nice to me right now. I'll have to see when I have the wheel mounted to something that doesn't want to fold over on itself when my cockpit arrives though.
 
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Without own experience with a DD Wheel i would take advantage of the "wife aproval"
and buy the better wheel.

it´s not all about the power, most reviewers state the "speed and fidelity" of direct drive wheels.
So set to the same force the accuforce should deliver the better experience.
So far the theoretic thought process.

And should you dislike the flex of your rig it should be neither complicated nor expensive to fabricate some crossbracing for the wheel carrier. Just an aluminum plate screwed to the uprights under the wheelcarrier shoud do wonders for the lateral stiffness.


Or start the process again and get your wife to aprove an aluminum extrusion rig ( Just kidding. Sorta ;))

MFG Carsten
 
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I have been sim racing for 20 plus years and over that period I have put miles on lots of wheels. I have driven the original Thrustmaster wheels, the Microsoft Sidewinder FFB, the Logitech G25, The Thrustmaster T300 with the Alcantara Ferrari wheel, The Fanatec Porsche wheel (I forget what the original Fanatec base was called}, and then I splurged on the Accuforce Pro V2. With the recent addition of cloud tuning, it has become a phenomenal value. So, I would clearly recommend it. Direct drive wheels feel great and communicate far more than the previous wheels ever could. Once you have tried them, you'll never go back. That said, they also generally have their own learning curve. As with most things in life, you get out of it what you put into it.

I have only ever driven the Accuforce so I cannot really compare it to other direct drive wheels. I can only say that it is a wonderful piece of hardware. Much has been written about competing direct drive wheels and because of the cost I encourage you to research alternatives. Try to buy the wheel want rather than stepping up one level at a time. It will save you money in the long run.

In the meantime, I run the Accuforce wheel on the GTTrack cockpit which is expressly designed for direct drive. I believe it will still run on the cockpit you have though you will likely be drilling your own holes to bolt it down and you will definitely experience a fair bit of flex when it is running (enough that you'll want to occasionally check the welds on your steering mount fairly frequently). You may also need to buy the angled mounting kit for it.

The only real negative to the Accuforce is that the fan on the power supply which is a few feet away from the wheel is the loudest part of my entire system. Fortunately, since it is white noise, it is pretty easy to ignore. Finally, I would also recommend ordering an additional coiled cable if you are able because they do break eventually.
 
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Certainly a DD, do it. My 2c for the actual wheel. If the wife is constraining your budget to the AF2 then get it over the fanatec, no question.

If you are constraining yourself to the AF2 based on torque and your rig then I suggest you look at other options as well. You don't 'need' that 20nm but it manifests itself in ways that are not necessarily huge amounts of torque trying to pull you apart. I think there are a lot of people not aware they are actually taking advantage of more torque than they realise, just not constant heavy torque that people seem to think the extra torque is only good for.

Once you have your DD set it up to your liking and if there is too much flex then turn it down a bit.

If you find that it is still flexing, turn it back up and relax your death grip you found you have acquired from the excitement of the wheel as you will find its you pushing the wheel around not the torque :)
 
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Thanks for everyones comments. The Accuforce V2 has been ordered. I just couldn't find many, if any, bad reviews. And with the price point it is hard to ignore its value. I did look at others that looked to be of similar value, but once I added in the same goodies I get with the AF2, even the other "cheaper" DD setups were 33% higher or even more. Plus I hear their customer service is fantastic, and for me that is worth a lot. I did notice that this YouTube video reviewing the AF2 was on the earlier version of my same cockpit, and it seemed to be doing well. Thanks again for everyones help.
 
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You made a good choice. I own a CS2.5 and it’s great for belt driven. Amazing really. But it will always have that “it’s great.... for a belt driven wheel”. Because no matter how good it is, it’ll never be as good as the least acceptable direct drive wheel.
 
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