Hello racefans I've built myself an analogue handbrake using my old, dysfunctional G25 shifter, an Arduino ProMicro controller, a micro-USB cable and an AMSTUDIO YouTube video tutorial called "How to make a USB analogue handbrake." Here's how: I was going to buy a Driving Force Shifter and use that, but came across a pre-owned G27 shifter on a local online forum. The bottom half of the G25 and G27 shifters are identical, down to the last screwhole, so I transplanted the G25 sequential gate and microswitch onto the G27 base. The only difference is the plastic sleeve design on the shifter shaft. The very top 3mm on the G27's is held on by two screws, and this needs to be removed or else it stops the shifter from getting into 1st and 5th gear. Easy peasy. I plugged the connectors from the bottom half of the G27 shifter into the G25's top half circuit board, screwed it all together, and now have a fully-functional G25 shifter. On to the handbrake. I removed the metal hard-mount points from the shifter, drilled a couple of holes through the bottom of the casing, and reattached them closer to the centre of the casing with bolts from the bottom, attaching two strong springs between them and the shifter shaft using zip-ties. Once I'd removed the G27 cable from the casing, I removed the connector attached to the end of the wires coming from the potentiometers (pots) on the shifter shaft. The wires are different colours, so it's quite easy to tell which is coming from where. The black wire is ground, as far as I can tell. Using a multimeter, I identified the wires coming from the pot that measures the up/down movement of the shaft (the one on the right-hand side of the shaft) and soldered these to a Arduino ProMicro board using amstudio's YouTube video as a guide. DON'T NECESSARILY USE HIS WIRE COLOURS. You must solder the correct wires to the correct connectors or you will get strange (not dangerous though) results. I gather that the pots have the same range and resistance as the sliding type that AMSTUDIO uses in his video, so the code included in his video description should work without any editing. I tried the Arduino Web Editor without success, and therefore recommend downloading the Arduino IDE. Here's the code I ended up with (you will need to copy the DynamicHID folder and the Joystick folder to the Arduino "libraries" folder in the Arduino installation folder on your computer, as the code refers to these libraries). I can monitor the input from the pot and I've added some dead zone at either end of the range. With the help of Martin Fiala and Dave Williams here at RaceDepartment I got it to work with WRC7 too, by getting it to fake a button-press halfway through the range. See their contributions in this post. I have tested Assetto Corsa, Automobilista, Dirt 4, Dirt Rally, Project Cars 2, Richard Burns Rally and WRC7. Finally I have some control at the hairpins!