Any Tips on the FFB

[Philip Grimm]

So I've had ACC since it released, and back when I started playing it I had no issues. Was on a t150pro at the time, I now have a t300 and played back then too with it and it was fine. Seems like now the FFB is so light its really bothering me. I play AMS2 and Iracing and have no issues. I prefer a slightly heavy wheel. I can only do so much with my t300, but iracing and AMS2 give me plenty of force. Yet ACC feels incredibly light no matter which settings I choose.

Is there any tips to increase the weight of the wheel? I dont care about realism I just care about having a decently heavy feeling wheel it makes me race better. I just cannot find a combination of settings to give me a heavy return to center and center at all. Unless you are turning really hard into a corner occasionally it will give some force. The center is non existent. The best settings I've found right now are 90 gain, and 30 road feel with everything else at 0. I just love this game a lot and cannot get why the wheel feels SO DAMN LIGHT. Like worse than a regular road car doing 10mph around a corner at the supermarket.

Any tips?

 

[Dethrone1427]

What are your spring settings at on the wheel? If you want to fight the wheel and stop it going back towards the centre then that'll be in the spring settings. Also if you want a heavier wheel up the damping in game. You'll lose road detail but you could try upping that.

 

[Herr Pietrus]

I don't want to start a new thread, so since the title is rather general, I'd also like to ask about FFB. I've got T300 too and I don't like having heavy wheel.

Currently I've got:

In game:​

Gain - 75%​

Dynamic Damping - 100%​

Road Effects - 3%​

In TM Profiler:​

Overall - 50%​

Constant - 60%​

Periodic - 60%​

Spring - 55%​

Damper - 50%​

Auto Center - By the game​

(temporary settings borrowed form CARS 1/2)​

​

Wheel sometimes feel slightly too heavy for my taste and in the same time I'd like to feel a bit more force during sharp turns, rapid direction changes and skids.

Does ACC use all TM profiler values? If I lower spring and damper while game is running, it totally ruins FFB, almost erases wheel resistance, in the same time after ACC restart reducing spring and damper by 5% seems to do almost nothing. Changing overall force to 55-60% doesn't help too, because it makes all effects stronger.

I also haven't noticed any change after setting dynamic (?) damping to 50/75% as someone suggested in my other topic.

 

[Deleted member 197115]

Make sure that Damper is off in game, and drop Dynamic Damping, you don't need much with belt driven wheel.

 

[RasmusP]

Is there any tips to increase the weight of the wheel?

In theory, the in-game "Damper", NOT the dynamic damping will give you weight. It also slows down the wheel in general, but I'm currently using 40% Damper + 35% dynamic damping with my Moza R12.
To not slow it down completely, I'm only using 5% damping in the Moza software, where I normally use around 50%.
But you seem to have a different issue...

Yet ACC feels incredibly light no matter which settings I choose.

That doesn't seem right. If you still need help with this:
Please take a screenshot of your ACC controls settings and your Thrustmaster settings. Maybe there's something wrong.

I don't like having heavy wheel.
[...]
Wheel sometimes feel slightly too heavy for my taste and in the same time I'd like to feel a bit more force during sharp turns, rapid direction changes and skids.

In general, you need less average force with more peak force to achieve this.
You get this by increasing the dynamic of the ffb. How to do this?
Turn down the in-game gain and increase the wheelbase strength.
So:

Currently I've got:
In game:Gain - 75%Dynamic Damping - 100%Road Effects - 3%In TM Profiler:Overall - 50%Constant - 60%Periodic - 60%Spring - 55%Damper - 50%Auto Center - By the game

Ingame gain = 75% and TM Profiler overall = 50% means:
0.75 * 0.50 = 0.375 "nominal torque" and 0.50 "peak torque".
To get a lighter but more dynamic wheel, you need to lower the nominal torque and increase the peak torque:
0.40 * 0.75 = 0.30 nominal torque and 0.75 peak torque.

That should help

Does ACC use all TM profiler values? If I lower spring and damper while game is running, it totally ruins FFB

Yes and no. I would recommend to keep everything at default in the TM profiler and maybe increase the "overall" setting.
Constant and Periodic are mixing the ffb with some fancy algorithm, I never really tested this or understood this. Just keep them at default.
Spring is NOT used by ACC and I don't think by any modern racing title.
Damper is used for the standing still resistance in AC and ACC. As soon as you're above rolling speed, it doesn't matter if you set the TM damper to 0% or 100%.

 

[Deleted member 197115]

Different types of dampers in ACC:
- Dynamic Damper aka Gyro, implemented with Constant force DI effect depends on front tires speed
- Damper, classical DI effect damper, slows down wheel proportional to wheel rotation speed, always active

Depending on the wheelbase you can have control for DI Damper, you can only scale up and down what is fed by the game itself, not create one.
In Simucube for instance you also have "Constantly operated Damper", which is active all the times and does not depend on game feed.
I am pretty sure TM supports only DI damper scaling, so you need to have it enabled in game to have any effect.

I'd say start with both Dynamic Damper and Damper at 0, and then raise Dynamic Damper a bit if you deal with oscillation or too violent SAT return after sliding. Wheelbases with natural damping/friction like belt driven TM doesn't really need much.

 

[RasmusP]

Different types of dampers in ACC:
- Dynamic Damper aka Gyro, implemented with Constant force DI effect depends on front tires speed
- Damper, classical DI effect damper, slows down wheel proportional to wheel rotation speed, always active

Depending on the wheelbase you can have control for DI Damper, you can only scale up and down what is fed by the game itself, not create one.
In Simucube for instance you also have "Constantly operated Damper", which is active all the times and does not depend on game feed.
I am pretty sure TM supports only DI damper scaling, so you need to have it enabled in game to have any effect.

I'd say start with both Dynamic Damper and Damper at 0, and then raise Dynamic Damper a bit if you deal with oscillation or too violent SAT return after sliding. Wheelbases with natural damping/friction like belt driven TM doesn't really need much.

I'm not sure about this, but I can't prove it either.
My Moza R12 has no settings for the DI channels and AC1 doesn't have any resistance when standing still. The damper level and the minimum damper level (always on damper) have absolutely no effect.
However in ACC, both dynamic damper and the other damper both have a massive effect.

Does the just damper setting in ACC have an effect with your Simucube, if you set the DI channels to 0%?

 

[Deleted member 197115]

I'm not sure about this, but I can't prove it either.
My Moza R12 has no settings for the DI channels and AC1 doesn't have any resistance when standing still. The damper level and the minimum damper level (always on damper) have absolutely no effect.
However in ACC, both dynamic damper and the other damper both have a massive effect.

Does the just damper setting in ACC have an effect with your Simucube, if you set the DI channels to 0%?

Yes, it is DI Damper, just another way to expose minimum DI damper.
Dynamic Damper will always have effect as it's using Constant force independent from DI Damper effect.
As for no effect in AC, may be CM is messing things up, are you changing it via CM or ini file.

 

[Herr Pietrus]

Wow, thanks for so much info, I'll definitely check these settings out.

Edit: It really works and it seems that combination 63-65% in game and 55-57% in TM Control Panel is definitely better.
Thanks also for clarifying what different damper options means and does.