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About to purchase fanatec CSL elite LC

manu68

Premium
Hi.

I am back again, but with another need for advices and comment

I didnt purchased the fanatec pedals yet. After thinking about it, I prefer to invest first in a decent rig which could accept them well.
After all my Logitech G25 is working perfectly and I can wait a little more for the pedals, maybe until Christmas.

After looking and reading tons of videos and comments, and after evaluating of various rig including 80/20 rig in comparison with budget , I could confront the results to the "WAF"(Wife Acceptance Factor). :roflmao:This is a very important aspect to me.

It remains only two rig, after total elimination of alu rig (including simlab rig for example), evaluated as "horrible " after WAF approval .

In pole position , the Rseat RS1.
In second place, the simetik k2.

Is there any good reasons why I should absolutely go for the simetik k2 instead of the RS1 .
I like them both.

Thanks .
 

RasmusP

Premium
I'm not that sure about the rigidity of the rs1 due to one sided tubes but I have to say that thing looks sleak as heck! I love it :D
Yeah.... Not a very useful commend but if it doesn't vibrate etc (my wheelstand v2 with csw 2.5 is pretty horrible lol, but the construction is a lot different!), I'd say get one and get happy :)
 

manu68

Premium
Thanks.
In many review I have seen they insist on the global rigidity . (simpit review for example)
Of course maybe not with an extrem direct drive Wheel, but i think (hope) it should be no problem with belt driven Wheel like the fanatec (my future plan).

The simetik is really nice too for my needs
I have it in sight for a long time too.
Maybe a little more flexible.

I think i will go for the RS1. Probably a white with read seat.
The RSeat France is 10 km from my village. It may be useful if problem.
 
I almost went with those choices. The only reason why I didn't was for the fact I wanted something as modular as possible. I went with a GT Omega Art with a DD1 mounted onto it and a monitor. Having it double as a PC desk was important for me and if I really needed to, separate the seat from the whole unit. The only modification I did, was to add stability are two 2040 aluminum extrusion pieces to hold the mounting table in place.

The only other option I would have gone. Would have been a 2080 setup that was foldable I saw weeks after pulling the trigger on my current setup.
 
Whats the price difference? I've seen lots of people post very positive things about the rigidity of the simetik, it's pretty unanimous that it's rock solid. any other non 8020 rigs though you always see criticism. If this is a long term hobby for you then go the simetik imo.
 

manu68

Premium
There is about no price difference. This is why I selected these two models at one point.
I also selected two models made in Europe just because I am in France.

As my cockpit is located in a hobby room shared with the family, the design, and is important too (but not essential).

Thanks for all of your precious advices .
The simetik have been long my first choice for many reasons, but I changed my mind after readind about the RS1.

I will order a RSeat RS1 in white, red seat.
 

manu68

Premium
Sorry !

You are right. I should have given some feedback on my RS1 cockpit.

Well, this is easy. I am happy with it.
I dont know if it makes me quicker on the track, but at least I have at my disposal a reliable place where to seat and enjoy my hobby.

This thing is really robust and well built. The seat is probably not the most comfortable out there but it makes the job perfectly. It looks nice in my opinion.

I really dont regret my purchase.

Regarding wheel and pedals I will go probably for fanatec set, maybe around Christmas time.
 

RasmusP

Premium
To also drop something in again:
I ended up buying the csl elite loadcell add on.

I drive with socks in a wobbly office chair and am using the softest config for the loadcell.

Overall I'm very happy with it. My brake pedal is not spiking yet and my replaced throttle pot is not spiking either. Apparently they do have reliable pots somewhere between all the bad stories in the internet!

The loadcell leverage sensitivity problem, as I'd call it is no problem for me because I don't move my foot at all.
I've set a dead zone for the first 20% so I can rest my leg on the pedal.

It's not like a real car but it's better than a pot brake like I've had before. Pressure instead of travel distance made me drive a lot more safe around the Nordschleife! No braking errors in my two long races (90 and 120 minutes) .
Always did braking errors before this brake pedal!

So I can recommend this set if you can be bothered to contact fanatec probably 1-3x about failures but overall it's a nice and not too expensive set of pedals :)

The 2.5 wheel base is still absolutely amazing! Strong, detailed and very quiet.
At first I had some annoying coil whine but that went away with a firmware update :)
 
Overall I'm very happy with it. My brake pedal is not spiking yet and my replaced throttle pot is not spiking either. Apparently they do have reliable pots somewhere between all the bad stories in the internet!

Hi dude, still performing good the CSL? I'm also need to buy a new pedal set and I'm between the CSL's and the new T-LCM.
There are a few downsides to the CSL elite pedals:


3. The LC is badly designed!
Now this is a bit more complicated but I know you will easily understand this:
The loadcell is a standard strain gauge but instead of being placed in the "footprint" of the brake pedal, so really just the pressure on the elastomer-axis is measured, the loadcell of the CSL elite pedal is in the pedal arm, not measuring the footprint-pressure but the flex of the pedal arm!
Could this be due to the fact that a pedal is a "lever"? I mean, as you move away from the center of the lever you need to apply less force to rise same weight (output force). From this point of view, the pedal would be acting correct. It'd be interesting to check if the relation between distance from center and the output force you get is accurate according to the formula:

9UxLxt3xSF6H5l8eMqovfg.png


PS. sorry for refloating the topic...
 

SOLO59

Premium
Hi dude, still performing good the CSL? I'm also need to buy a new pedal set and I'm between the CSL's and the new T-LCM.

Could this be due to the fact that a pedal is a "lever"? I mean, as you move away from the center of the lever you need to apply less force to rise same weight (output force). From this point of view, the pedal would be acting correct. It'd be interesting to check if the relation between distance from center and the output force you get is accurate according to the formula:

9UxLxt3xSF6H5l8eMqovfg.png


PS. sorry for refloating the topic...

If it helps... I purchsed the T-LCM pre-ordered... And still waiting for them. It was an easy decision for me because I already have a Thrustmaster wheel TX...

Therez also the price difference. I got the T-LCM on sale for $269 CAD ($299 CAD regular price). CSL LC cost $349 CAD.

T-LCM uses hall sensors on all 3 pedals. CSL LC still on pots. Don't know bout you/y'all but I'm through with pots after G27 and now t3pa pros.

Lastly, durability. I know its too early to tell for the T-LCM's... But haven't heard anything bad from multiple reviews so far... CSL LC have reported issues that I world really like to avoid. We shall see if T-LCM have any issues moving forward..... But I'm of three belief that Thrustmaster had the opportunity to see how things went with all pedals available and maybe they could be the ones to improve and deliver a budget load cell hall sensor quality pedal set.

Can't freaking WAIT for mine! Had to order the T-LCM adapter separately and hope they arrive around the same time or at least the adapter arrives first! I'd be kind of disappointed to recieve the pedals before the adapter and having them sitting in the box beside my rig just looking at me sideways like fam.... What you waiting for????? Open me up and try me out already will ya!!!!! :roflmao:
 

RasmusP

Premium
Hi dude, still performing good the CSL? I'm also need to buy a new pedal set and I'm between the CSL's and the new T-LCM.

Could this be due to the fact that a pedal is a "lever"? I mean, as you move away from the center of the lever you need to apply less force to rise same weight (output force). From this point of view, the pedal would be acting correct. It'd be interesting to check if the relation between distance from center and the output force you get is accurate according to the formula:

9UxLxt3xSF6H5l8eMqovfg.png


PS. sorry for refloating the topic...
Hi,
sorry for the late reply...
Yes, my CSL pedals are still working fine :)

Your little drawing got me hooked but I couldn't find the time to properly think and calculate it but I now did it.

To give the answer up front:
Bottom, Middle (100%) and Top Foot position will give you these relative results in braking input:

CSL Loadcell Design:
50% ; 100% ; 150%

Clubsport V3 and other standard loadcell designs:
88% ; 100% ; 112%

Here's my lengthy reply, I'm not 100% sure if that's correct but I do think it gets the principles right:

Pedalarm.JPG


Basic_draw.JPG


1586520834205.png


Torque_CLS_1.JPG


1586521200371.png

Clubsport_Torque_1.JPG


1586522192812.png


Now let's just have fun and calculate with 0.5-8.0cm to show what happens when you might put your foot in non-standard positions:

CSL:
500N * 0.005m = 2.5Nm = 12,5%
500N * 0.040m = 20 Nm = 100%
500N * 0.080m = 40 Nm = 200%

Clubsport V3:
(500N * 0.130m) / 0.085m = 765N = 79%
(500N * 0.165m) / 0.085m = 971N = 100%
(500N * 0.205m) / 0.085m = 1206N = 124%

You see the CSL varies from -87.5% to doubled input while the Clubsport V3 only varies about 20-25% +/- :confused:
 
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