Whats the worst bit of kit you purchased?

What gear have you purchased for your simrig that was a waste of time or waste of money and hardly or ever used.

I think the worse every thing I got was a G29 upgrade from a G27, at the time I really wanted those extra buttons, but sadly it was not built as well, and the build quality was shocking compared to the G27 IMO, so it went back in the bock after a while and is now in the loft gathering dust.
 
RSeat S1. Can't hold a DD wheel to save its life, despite claiming it can. Pedal plate flex is beyond terrible.
Echo that. Had one as well, had to crank down hard for it to hold down a G27, which weighs around the same as a leaf compared to a DD. And yes, the pedal plate is utterly useless, so much I took it off and made my own.
 
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1. Richmotech phone mount - expensive product (especially with UK import duty) but cheap screw mounts mean it just doesn't stay together. Had to glue it which means if I change phone it will have to be exactly the same size which defeats their concept.
2. Oculus Rift, but only because I couldn't use it without affecting my transplanted corneas.
 
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Nothing as i have never bought anything from Fanatec:laugh:
I register a tendency in this thread :roflmao:

Let me tell you a story of a sim racer with sensitiveness for small changes in steering movement...this is going to be a looooncc one, so brace yourselves! (or skip it, i can't blame you, but man, was it a ride for me)

The piece of marvellous hardware, that i see as a major example for the quality assurance of a so called premium mainstream supplier: Fanatec CSL Elite PS4 Pack (Wheelbase and P1 Rim) for 500€ + UPS Shipping. The problem is on the wheelbase side.

BTW: I own the Fanatec CSP V3 and these pedals are very nice and they're not making any problems for quite a time, no adjustments needed, no decalibration or loadcell/halleffect sensor flickering, nothing...so fingers crossed, so no wasted money, there.^^

But let's stay on the wheelbase topic here:
I really, really like the FFB and driving feel of this wheel, it's silky smooth, it has some astonishing detail in FFB, many options to modulate your steering and force characteristics in a firmware dependent tuning menu/environment and it's fine to use, even if you're not on a 1000€ rig.

So why do i think, it's the worst bit of kit i purchased?
Let me tell you at first: This is no bashing for the support of Fanatec, these guys do a good job, it's more about the company and its quality standards (and awareness of that) itself.
The problem might be even not that big of a deal for anyone, but for me it really is in some occasions and maybe it saves someone of a wrong purchase. ;)

Well, the first time, i plugged it in (i'm not even talking about the main issue now, be aware of that ;) ) and started it, it had some annoying coil whine, so i looked for a solution and the solution is beta motor firmware v22. This firmware sometimes leads to a coggy feel, when changing the "Sen" value to different degrees of rotation, though, when not restarting the wheel, so room for improvement, there. But the whine is gone and it works, so far, but not having this adressed and selling it without mentioning it somewhere outside their forums is already shady...but let's have a look at the main issue, why i never recommend buying a CSL Elite to anyone:

I drove a longer period of time and after 2 months, my muscle memory was alarming something...the centering is always moving a bit in the direction of where forces are coming from and i notice it while driving smoothly out of corners (FFB and steering lock are both causing it), it's assumingly not a sensor problem.

So it got RMA'd after making several videos for the (really nice, fast and competent but also doubting) support and i waited 2 weeks, got code wheel sensor changed and motor pulley adjusted (i had also a slight grinding noise, but this got fixed) and got it back, just to see:

OH the problem is....still there (*australian old iRacing spotter accent*).

You wanna see it?
I made an absolutely empirical and scientifically valid experiment with a white line on the monitor and a standing camera on my scientifically advanced...telephone. :D

(Video before the RMA)
I oriented after 0° with 32767 notches (absolute center of the CSL Elite, using magnifier for better visibility).
Look, where the numbers on the LCD on the Rim allign with the white line, when the driver shows the center after turning it left and right into the softlock (Sen value on 009 what means 90°), maybe you notice it.^^

(Video after the RMA repair)
I have the wheel centered at the start of the video and turning it all the way into the left steering lock (it is the same with every angle of rotation) and back into the exact centering position, this method this time, because the support guy wasn't understanding my method quite well, i got the feeling...
The value changes from 0 to 1 at exact center, also the notches at the top change...

what does this tell? It seems, the wheel still wants to go in a slightly different direction now, even if it's not that much, but it's not even 4 months old now, so there are not many happy feelings about that. Maybe not everyone feels it, while driving but i do.^^

BUT CrimsonCringe, why are you not RMA'ing it again, to finally solve the issue you may ask? (i'm sure you stopped reading this wall of text by now, so no questions at all :D )

Well, i tried, even got a very knowledgeable guy on the telephone, because i got tired of emails, but they tell me now, this is a normal behaviour in the tolerances, a mail from a day later, after reconsidering the value of an issue there confirms this evaluation of the whole situation. :confused:

"There is no problem with the centering" and "It will not have an effect in any game".

Dominic Brennan, the official Fanatec Community Manager told me something different, though. I link the Sector 3 Forum thread here, where i also was posting the issue already and his answer to the video, i've made before the RMA:

https://forum.sector3studios.com/in...-general-discussion.10836/page-19#post-197089

So Fanatec seems aware of this problem, has tolerance charts for it and refuses to fix it (even if the CM of the company himself told me, there is something wrong with it), that's why the support can nothing do for me there. (Nothing against the support team, they're really fast, nice and competent, at least here in germany :) )

They would charge me the shipping, if they find nothing on their side, what is likely, cause they even tell me, that this is normal, despite some proof (in my opinion).
I think, driving wheels shouldn't change their calibration, even my G27 did a way better job there. :D

So if you made it until this point: Congratulations, after the whole thread and this way toooo long post, wasting your time, reading it, you finally got the awareness, of better saving your money for a bit better equipment or even avoiding Fanatec totally! :sneaky:

Also a side note:
If you want to have a probably more reliable and even less pricey shifter, than the Fanatec SQ, go with the Thrustmaster TH8A, but do not unscrew and screw it very often, the thread for the clamp has deformed a bit here, so it doesn't stick without a selfmade spacer anymore. But at least, the tech is working fine, and i must say, it feels very good after longtime G27 shifter usage! (TH8A is for quite a year in use now) :D

Thank you for your patience, if you made it through this post, sim racing community! :inlove:

P.S. We need more alternatives and competition on the market in this price range...we REALLY, REALLY need it.
 
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I register a tendency in this thread :roflmao:

Let me tell you a story of a sim racer with sensitiveness for small changes in steering movement...this is going to be a looooncc one, so brace yourselves! (or skip it, i can't blame you, but man, was it a ride for me)

The piece of marvellous hardware, that i see as a major example for the quality assurance of a so called premium mainstream supplier: Fanatec CSL Elite PS4 Pack (Wheelbase and P1 Rim) for 500€ + UPS Shipping. The problem is on the wheelbase side.

BTW: I own the Fanatec CSP V3 and these pedals are very nice and they're not making any problems for quite a time, no adjustments needed, no decalibration or loadcell/halleffect sensor flickering, nothing...so fingers crossed, so no wasted money, there.^^

But let's stay on the wheelbase topic here:
I really, really like the FFB and driving feel of this wheel, it's silky smooth, it has some astonishing detail in FFB, many options to modulate your steering and force characteristics in a firmware dependent tuning menu/environment and it's fine to use, even if you're not on a 1000€ rig.

So why do i think, it's the worst bit of kit i purchased?
Let me tell you at first: This is no bashing for the support of Fanatec, these guys do a good job, it's more about the company and its quality standards (and awareness of that) itself.
The problem might be even not that big of a deal for anyone, but for me it really is in some occasions and maybe it saves someone of a wrong purchase. ;)

Well, the first time, i plugged it in (i'm not even talking about the main issue now, be aware of that ;) ) and started it, it had some annoying coil whine, so i looked for a solution and the solution is beta motor firmware v22. This firmware sometimes leads to a coggy feel, when changing the "Sen" value to different degrees of rotation, though, when not restarting the wheel, so room for improvement, there. But the whine is gone and it works, so far, but not having this adressed and selling it without mentioning it somewhere outside their forums is already shady...but let's have a look at the main issue, why i never recommend buying a CSL Elite to anyone:

I drove a longer period of time and after 2 months, my muscle memory was alarming something...the centering is always moving a bit in the direction of where forces are coming from and i notice it while driving smoothly out of corners (FFB and steering lock are both causing it), it's assumingly not a sensor problem.

So it got RMA'd after making several videos for the (really nice, fast and competent but also doubting) support and i waited 2 weeks, got code wheel sensor changed and motor pulley adjusted (i had also a slight grinding noise, but this got fixed) and got it back, just to see:

OH the problem is....still there (*australian old iRacing spotter accent*).

You wanna see it?
I made an absolutely empirical and scientifically valid experiment with a white line on the monitor and a standing camera on my scientifically advanced...telephone. :D

(Video before the RMA)
I oriented after 0° with 32767 notches (absolute center of the CSL Elite, using magnifier for better visibility).
Look, where the numbers on the LCD on the Rim allign with the white line, when the driver shows the center after turning it left and right into the softlock (Sen value on 009 what means 90°), maybe you notice it.^^

(Video after the RMA repair)
I have the wheel centered at the start of the video and turning it all the way into the left steering lock (it is the same with every angle of rotation) and back into the exact centering position, this method this time, because the support guy wasn't understanding my method quite well, i got the feeling...
The value changes from 0 to 1 at exact center, also the notches at the top change...

what does this tell? It seems, the wheel still wants to go in a slightly different direction now, even if it's not that much, but it's not even 4 months old now, so there are not many happy feelings about that. Maybe not everyone feels it, while driving but i do.^^

BUT CrimsonCringe, why are you not RMA'ing it again, to finally solve the issue you may ask? (i'm sure you stopped reading this wall of text by now, so no questions at all :D )

Well, i tried, even got a very knowledgeable guy on the telephone, because i got tired of emails, but they tell me now, this is a normal behaviour in the tolerances, a mail from a day later, after reconsidering the value of an issue there confirms this evaluation of the whole situation. :confused:

"There is no problem with the centering" and "It will not have an effect in any game".

Dominic Brennan, the official Fanatec Community Manager told me something different, though. I link the Sector 3 Forum thread here, where i also was posting the issue already and his answer to the video, i've made before the RMA:

https://forum.sector3studios.com/in...-general-discussion.10836/page-19#post-197089

So Fanatec seems aware of this problem, has tolerance charts for it and refuses to fix it (even if the CM of the company himself told me, there is something wrong with it), that's why the support can nothing do for me there. (Nothing against the support team, they're really fast, nice and competent, at least here in germany :) )

They would charge me the shipping, if they find nothing on their side, what is likely, cause they even tell me, that this is normal, despite some proof (in my opinion).
I think, driving wheels shouldn't change their calibration, even my G27 did a way better job there. :D

So if you made it until this point: Congratulations, after the whole thread and this way toooo long post, wasting your time, reading it, you finally got the awareness, of better saving your money for a bit better equipment or even avoiding Fanatec totally! :sneaky:

Also a side note:
If you want to have a probably more reliable and even less pricey shifter, than the Fanatec SQ, go with the Thrustmaster TH8A, but do not unscrew and screw it very often, the thread for the clamp has deformed a bit here, so it doesn't stick without a selfmade spacer anymore. But at least, the tech is working fine, and i must say, it feels very good after longtime G27 shifter usage! (TH8A is for quite a year in use now) :D

Thank you for your patience, if you made it through this post, sim racing community! :inlove:

P.S. We need more alternatives and competition on the market in this price range...we REALLY, REALLY need it.
Addition:
The P1 Rim sometimes doesn't pick up shifter and button presses now, while driving. It isn't energy-management related, already tested it (also Down Shift Protection isn't the issue)...i don't even bother to whait for it to happen again by coincidence, while filming it, for being believed by the support.
I consider ebay or trashcan instead...

I'm done with Fanatec forever, don't buy their stuff, if you actually want to have fun for more than 2 months, driving pretend race cars!

The CSL Elite (PS4 Kit, used on a PC, though) is overpriced and made of low quality, Fanatec knows it and sells it this way, so be aware of their breaking "premium pretending" stuff.

It's probably the worst buy, i've ever made. (And i own the shi**y Saitek X55 HOTAS, where one throttle was saying good bye after 2 months due to bad wiring quality)
Edited due cooked down frustration*

I almost can't believe, that the CSP V3 are working flawlessly.
 
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Back in the the first Fanatec Clubsport Pedals and that orange Posrche wheel base from them as well. Had to send both of them back a couple of times to get them repaired. They were junk.

Recently, probably I bought two Buttkicker LFE's and just wasn't impressed with them for what they costs. Went with some Dayton pucks instead and they feel just as good for my purpose.....The LFE's are for sale if anybody is interested ;)
 
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Fanatec Clubsport v1 pedals. Have the whole alternative damper kit, too. They constantly need min/max adjustment on the clutch and often on gas. And if a USB devices needs a hard powercycle it is the Fanatec for sure.
I have a 'Love-hate' with those pedals.
Mine were shipped to me as new also in 2011...with somebody else's RMA return receipt in the box.
I still have a copy of that receipt as a reminder.
The first year was okay.
Second year....max throttle drift issue....sensor changed.
Third year....max throttle drift issue....another sensor changed.
Fourth year....max throttle drift....another sensor AND a full PC board changed.
Fifth year to approximately one year ago....numerous throttle drifts (fixed by unplug and reconnecting USB).
Within last year and after moving to Windows 10...few issues here and there.
 
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My CSP v1 does the same since first year (bought in 2011) until I isolated the PCB, looks like its very sensitive to EMIs or bad grounding at all.
Just take off PCB from chasis and put with velcro in wood or PVC. Years of mods and pleasure since then
 
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This was some time ago, it could all possibly be much better now but back then virtually everything they made that we had broke or was plain useless (despite costing a fortune)
 
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Fanatec Handbrake V1.5 hands down. Had an issue which would pretty quickly destroy the potentiometers even after some pretty advanced fixes. It was putting some lateral loads on the pot. Eventually I made a little HALL sensor conversion kit for the handbrake and don't have to care at all about the pots dying or being erratic. :D (it's really good now but that's not how it comes from the factory)
 
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Seriously? I couldn't be happier with it, for both racing sims and for many other games.
Well, I can partly understand him. On black friday sale I upgraded from my good ol' Pimax 4K to a Rift S.

Pros:
  • The inside out roomscale tracking is phenomenal. Period.
    Before, I only played sim racing in VR, so the 3DOF of the 4K were no real limitation, but with the Rift S I finally convinced my wife VR isn't nerdy bullshit and turned her into a beat saber addict. ;)
  • The controllers (which are my first VR controllers) are great and intuitive to handle. It was amazing to watch my wife who, during her first VR experience ever, knew what to do with them within minutes.
  • Again, the tracking is phenomenal. I had accepted the need to press the "VR center" button on my wheel about once per lap to cope with the 4K compass/gyro drift, but the Rift is solid as a rock here.
  • Passthrough is a feature I've always been looking for. Finally I can see what is happening outside (if I need too). Though I have to admit, I expected the image quality to be better, at least so I could read my keyboard, but there is too little resolution and too much lens distortion to do so, but as image quality is not the camera's primary task, that's no con.
  • Basically I like the halo. Having Koss earphones mounted to it (see cons), I can flip them aside to listen to the outside world or simply relieve the stress from my ears. The Pimax has good quality earphones, but as they are held by the headstrap, they apply a constant pressure to your ears.
Cons:
  • While the Pimax's display panel is not really top notch, its 4K native resolution had practically no visible SDE. Before the 4K i owned a Rift DK2, and once that "OH WOW VR IS UNBELIEVABLE" effect wore off, the SDE buggered me big time.
    To make things short: SDE-wise, the Rift S is a disappointment. I wish I could transfer the 4K's display panel to my Rift S.
  • While I basically like the halo, as written before, the knob at the back interferes with my racing seat and impales the sitting comfort. Hopefully there will be a proper alternative to that in the future.
  • Also, by the design of the halo, I expected a hinged mount for the goggles, so i could flip them up and down instead of taking the whole headset off. Meeeep, no.
  • The built-in speakers are crap. Which would not be so bad, if Oculus offered proper add-ons in the style of the CV1's earphones. Luckily I do have a friend with a 3D printer, who printed me these.
And finally the "I cannot belive they did not solve this yet" candidate: That damn "flickering and blackout" bug! M****F****! To be honest, I knew about this before from a YT review, but I (naive as I am) thought they'd sort that out with time.
The Rift S is extremely picky when it comes to putting it on your head for the first time of a session. If you do it while already sitting down in your racing seat (which is within the guardian barriers, btw) or in other totally random positions the HMD doesn't "like", the image comes up for a few seconds, then flickers and finally blacks out. Once that happened, you need to follow an unnerving plug out, plug in, wait (and finally reboot) cycle to get it working again.
Same thing happens if the Rift is already connected to the PC before windows has started, so simply leaving it connected to the PC is no option.
Only the remembrance of the price tag prevented me from smashing that thing on the wall in these situations.
 
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