Thrustmaster T-LCM pedals

My journey started with a T300 and the basic 2 pedal set, I wasn't sure if the racing bug would really kick in so I wasn't willing to invest all too much early on and ever since I have been chasing my tail in the Thrustmaster ecosystem. The dual pedals it came with sucked and I very quickly ended up getting T3PA Pros to replace them.

T3PA Pros
I bought a set of T3PA Pros and they were a decent improvement. The brake was still positional but the conical brake in the box was OK if a bit stiff. I found the BJS Conical mod about 18 months ago and the green rubber was actually quite a good feeling with a gamma of 1.4. I drove like that for nearly a year and I got a lot better. I had managed to dial in a mostly linear feel but I had two problems at each end. At the top end of braking, there were too few values to give smooth adjustments and secondly, I couldn't really feel where 10% was so coming off trailing was a bit hard. I figured I would work it out in the end but I never got the hang of it consistently.

6 months ago I got an SRS (https://www.simracingsolutions.co.uk/) loadcell mod. Unlike the Ricomotech one, this pushes directly horizontally into the loadcell via rubber grommet. It is really solid, the pedal barely moves with this installed. It's not configurable either, so all you can really do is increase the minimum and decrease the maximum in-game to dial it in. Supposedly it has a 20KG loadcell in it, I was mostly using it at 45% in AC. This took my braking up a notch and made trailing easier, but I couldn't really come off the brake smoothly and slowly, the lack of movement was a bit of an issue. Hitting the points (100, 80, 20) was all fine but if I came off the brake and then wanted a blip of it the minimum was about 10%. There was too much pressure to get things going at all, it felt like 50% to get the first 10% and then linear upwards to 100% and that was the biggest problem. I wanted the trail to be half the pressure I was using at least it was far too heavy from the outset. They did offer to ship me a 10KG loadcell and that might have helped but I think the problem was more inherent to the design than the sensor.

T-LCMs

Enter the Thrustmaster T-LCM pedals. The moment I saw reviews I figured the setup application combined with the configurable springs was likely going to be what I was looking for. I had a loadcell already and it had improved my driving but it wasn't easy to learn to use and I didn't like the pedal feel at all. I got them out of the box 3 hours ago (after leaving them for a week to de virus!).

I tried the initial medium brake setting, found about 60% brake pressure was similar, removed most of the minimum force and went for a drive. I drove the same car/track/grip I drove in an endurance race a few days ago so it was fresh in my mind for comparison. I dropped 1.5seconds at best, but more importantly I had a lap to lap variance of 0.2-0.3s. I managed maybe 0.6s with occasional bad laps with the SRS Loadcell, these things instantly fixed my inconsistency problem. Its one thing to eventually find the pedals help, but to instantly just find them amazing I was not expecting that. The confidence I have with these brakes within minutes of getting them out of the box is incredible.

The initial setup they have too much travel for my taste and I think I want to remove the preload motion, go a bit stiffer and get the throttle further away so I can heel-toe blip easier. But already I can see coming off smoothly is easy, hitting the key points for threshold was easy to learn and trailing was not a problem at all. I am impressed, as a combination its cheaper than the T3PA Pros and the Fanatec loadcell set which I nearly bought until these were announced. It is clearly better in every way than the SRS loadcell. Loadcells are not all equal and having that movement in the pedal helps with consistency just as the loadcell helps the muscle memory, I need both to race well apparently. My pedals were definitely limiting me and Thrustmaster has done a good job with these, hall sensors on the throttle and clutch and that smooth loadcell.

About the only thing that has irritated me is the need to unplug the USB for the pedals if you change a setting, but it's going to be an initial annoyance that disappears once I am done with the setup process.
 
The default power curve sort of makes sense for potentiometer pedals although it's rarely "correct" for any particular pedal. With an SRS Green conical mod on the T3PA's, for example, I felt 1.9 was right that gave the impression of linear. Maybe it makes sense for the Logitech rubber-based pedals although I have seen people go higher with those. It is hard to say if its a bad default or not, it is just something that needs to be changed once you know what you are looking for.

So much in sim racing is very much about finding the right settings for your gear.
 
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It took me some laps to get used to the longer brake pedal travel the LCM provides in comparison to my modded T3PAs.
But once I did, I found it way easier to modulate the braking force than before.
There's just a tiny issue I experience: When I max out the red springs, the pedal pushes "hard" against the load cell. See if I can find a matching piece of rubber / elastomer to smoothen the last 2mm of pedal throw.

Has anybody found a good solution to this issue? I reach the "end" of the double red springs too easily. That means I stop getting proper resistance at the end and basically just push directly against the load cell. Once that happens, the pedal itself almost completely stops moving - the travel between 75% brake input and 100% brake input is basically ~1mm, which is not possible to control.

Are there any stiffer springs that I can buy for the brake? I know about the Apex and Trackwerks mods, but these seem to reduce the throw a lot, and I would rather keep the full range of motion if possible. I just want it stiff enough so that I can't easily get to the end.
 
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But a loadcell, by its very nature, is designed to measure force, not travel. You brake harder by pushing harder, not further.
That's right, but the thing is: When you max out the LCM's springs there's no transition between "movement and pressure (via the springs)" and "just pressure". First there is a smooth pedal travel and next – BAM! – a hard wall.
So it'd be preferable to reach the desired maximum pressure before maxing out the springs.

Are there any stiffer springs that I can buy for the brake? I know about the Apex and Trackwerks mods, but these seem to reduce the throw a lot, and I would rather keep the full range of motion if possible. I just want it stiff enough so that I can't easily get to the end.
As for me, I've just gotten used to the lower forces the red springs require in comparison to my old pedal, and I'm totallaly fine with it.
If you nee more stiffness, you might want to check out this thread.
 
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Anyone here use these pedals with the 2020 version of Sim Labs GT1-Evo?

I'm sure I had read somewhere that the T-LCM muounting holes are unconventional and do not line up with the Evo pedal plate holes.
 
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@Eifion Evans

I have a set on my gt1 evo.

There are 4 bolt holes on the pedals but you can only get ether the front or back holes to match the evo plate.

I just use the 2 front holes on the pedals to mount to the evo plate and it works fine.

Don't use the back holes, use the front. If you use the back holes the pedals will lift as you push hard on the break. But using the front holes works fine because as u put weight on the pedals you push them down on the plate so they don't move this way.
 
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Thanks for the info.

I really need a pedal upgrade and would like a set of HE Sprints but you can buy 3 T-LCMs for the price of one 3-pedal Sprints.
 
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Just want to reassure people doing research for LC pedals that own a Playseat Challenge that these pedals will absolutely work. The velcro strap that comes with the seat to hold the pedals is all I use. I did, however, superglue a piece of the fuzzy bit of velcro onto the blank space of the strap. It has held up to about 4ish hours of racing today and is comfortably holding them up with the seat folded.

For reference, my spring combination is White-no washers-Red. I like the light preload and the hard resistance as it helps to prevent lockups for me. I find it really helpful for driving without ABS. Considering what the Playseat Challenge is, under hard braking, I can feel the chair flexing but not to a degree I'm concerned about. With my TX rumbling the frame of the chair and the creak of the Alcantara seat, it makes for a really immersive experience! :D

As for getting comfortable with them and the LC it only took about an hour. I went through a couple of setups (standard medium, Black-no washers-Red) until I found the combination that works best for me. The calibration tool is great and as was mentioned near the beginning of this thread needs to be set before you drive. For brake pressure, I press on the pedal as hard as I feel I will in a race then slide the adjuster until the bar flickers 98-100%. I found it again allows me to prevent lock-ups but it still happens.

I believe they are still in stock on Amazon and ordered them Thursday and received them Saturday. I finished the AC Club GT3 race about an hour ago and am completely satisfied with my purchase! I am more consistent and have a lot more fun rather than being frustrated due to inconsistent acceleration and braking. The T-LCM pedal set makes me want to drive rather than it being a chore. Also, I set a new personal best of 1:33.2 at the Red Bull Ring today! :cool:
 
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Just want to reassure people doing research for LC pedals that own a Playseat Challenge that these pedals will absolutely work. The velcro strap that comes with the seat to hold the pedals is all I use. I did, however, superglue a piece of the fuzzy bit of velcro onto the blank space of the strap. It has held up to about 4ish hours of racing today and is comfortably holding them up with the seat folded.

I can confirm this. Been using the Playseat Challenge with LC pedals for three years now. But I had two issues in the beginning: The thumb screws you adjust the tray's length with were too weak to withstand the brake pressure, so I simply drilled holes in the tubes and screwed them together to a fixed length.
Also those nylon brackets holding the pedal tray to the seat let go the other day in an emergency brake maneuver. I contacted Playseat about this issue, and they sent me not one but a whole bag of extra brackets.
Now I'm using three of them and never since had the issue again.

If you want to get rid of the velcro strap, I recommend these brackets.
 
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what do you estimate the required force to fully compress the brakes with the easiest springs? is it suitable for a desk + office chair setup? i currently use the t3pa pro pedals. would it feel similar or is it a lot harder?
 
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The the spring that's comes standard in it is pretty easy to press all the way, but that's not 100% breaking. Once the spring is all the way you can then press more to get to 100% as it's measuring the pressure not the movement as such.

I think you would need them pressed tight to the wall so they don't move but then you may push yourself back in the office chair.

Maybe you could fit them to a board with holes in it that you pop the wheels of the chair into so it's all sort of one connected setup.

I don't really think it's much harder to get 100% break on these than the t3pa pedals (I've never use the t3pa pro) but if stuff is moving about I think you will really miss out on the extra braking accuracy you can get.

PS - If you get them, expect to be crap at using them at first. I needed a few days to get use to them and build up a new muscle memory for them, now there great :)
 
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@Eifion Evans - something I forgot to mention about setting these up on my gt1 evo.

I flipped the front pedal plate the other way round so I would have the long slots at the front so I could get the front mounting holes on the T-LCM to match up with something. There's no other holes that match. This also let me slide the pedals left or right. I have mine all the way over to the left because I just want the break and accelerator pedals in the middle as I don't really use the clutch.

See the pic.

Swapped-Plate-Around.jpg
 
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what do you estimate the required force to fully compress the brakes with the easiest springs? is it suitable for a desk + office chair setup? i currently use the t3pa pro pedals. would it feel similar or is it a lot harder?

On the white and grey spring it is about as light as the basic T3PA Pros unmodified without a conical mod. That is quite a bit lighter than the default grey and black. But these pedals are do not grip the floor at all well. They would work up against a wall or a solid box without too much lifting but not just on the floor.

As a minimum, I would say get some plyboard to go to the wall and then attach the pedals to that. The bare minimum to make this set of pedals work under a desk.
 
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I have a few noob questions for you guys;

-When do you connect the pedals with the wheel?
I have them connected through USB, only use the wheel connection when checking the firmware, which was done at the beginning of course
Same goes with the calibration, only connect with the USB
Is this the correct way?

reason I ask this is this
- When I play iRacing I look at the telemetry (VRS) and I can't get the brakes to a 100% (60-70% max)
it does however register a 100% input in the calibration tool when pressing 52%
 
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