TLCM Brake Mod

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Hey y'all,
I shared this on Reddit few days ago and thought my fellow RD members with these pedals would like to know too.

After using the amazing Thrustmaster TLCM pedals for a few months now, I wanted the load cell to be more firm. Looked around online for mod options and came across a few below.

https://www.trackwerks.ca/products/trackwerks-t-lcm-brake-mod


https://www.apexv2r.com/products/apex-v2r-realistic-brake-feel-mod-for-thrustmaster-t-lcm-pedals


https://www.3drap.it/product/brake-pedal-mod-thrustmaster-tlcm-pedals/


https://www.nox3d.net/shop/cranckse...e-mod/brake-evo-t-lcm-rubber-mod-upgrade-kit/

I decided to go with the first link above from Trackworks in Ontario, Canada where I live. Only took a couple days to arrive. I am thoroughly enjoying this new mod and quickly adjusted to the new feeling. Overall, I can now focus more on making a turn and almost subconsciously apply the right amount of breaking needed.

Because the TLCM's (stock) are not firm/stiff enough, you can still hit %100 not easily, but very much possible to do so and still lock the brakes. With a mod like the ones above, should be more difficult to achieve %100 braking.

The ability to adjust the braking force in the TLCM software comes sooooooooo clutch with this mod. Using a car with ABS, simply turn down the braking force, because you'll be using a lot of brakes since locking up ain't much of an issue. Driving a car without ABS, turn up the braking force as you'll only need to reach 60% max of the breaks and comfortably lean on the extra 40% of brakes that's becomes too difficult to push at that point. This is similar to how those high end load cells work.
When I tried a load cell for the first time, it was impossible to hit full 100% braking. But comfortably mashed on the brakes to only achieve maybe 40-50% breaking and still slow the car in time.

Currently using the medium stiffer mod (green) and adjust the TLCM brake force accordingly. Absolutely amazing! TLCM owners, definitely recommend!
 
I was like that at first. Felt the supplied red springs were stiff enough. But now I've "broken-then-in" after a few months, I feel the need for something stiffer. I'm a light weight guy, but still can manage the firm/stiffer mod without issue. Did a club race the other day with them and felt no pain or discomfort
 
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the nox3d for the price is very good haha ;-)
I do not really need a harder brake pedal, but would like to have some extra buffer at that point where the springs are fully compressed.
As it is in fact the cheapest offered option, I ordered one out of curiosity. But to be honest, I can't tell by the product pictures how it actually works. Can you shine some light on this?

Telling by the "nox" in both your username and the offer's, I assume you are the manufacturer, right? ;)
 
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OK, yesterday I got that NOX3D mod. Shipping was very fast, as economy mail from france to germany took only three days.

Initial situation:
As described before, I was basically totally happy with my brake pedal, using two red springs. The only thing that bothered me was the point, where both springs were fully compressed and the pedal got hard (almost with an audible, but merely imaginary "clonk").
I wanted to have a smoother transition at this point, achieved by some elastomer part or such.

In came the NOX3D BRAKE evo T-LCM rubber MOD upgrade kit. Including shipping, I paid a total of EUR 19,85, which makes it the most affordable of all four mods in my region.

First impressions and setup:
As I wrote in my previous post, I found it hard to tell from the product pages how exactly the mod needs to be installed resp. works.
Against my expectation the mod came without any type of guide. And to be honest: The first impression was rather underwhelming. You get one 3d printed part (the biggest "crown style" thing) with a rubber ring attached, as well as five rubber rings; four thick and small in diameter, one thinner and with bigger diameter.
I was even more disappointed when I found out that the mod won't work with my dual red spring setup, as the red springs have a smaller diameter than their white, gray and black counterparts.

By studying the product images as well as some trial and error, I finally figured out how it was meant to be installed and tried the proposed setup with one white and one black spring.

The result was almost like my old LC modded T3PA, a very stiff pedal with very short throw. Not exactly what I was looking for; I wanted something in between.

So I finally ended up with a half and half setup with a red spring on top:
nox3dsetup.png
Thaaaaaat's more like it!

Driving and conclusions:
I immediately felt "at home" with the new setup. The pedal has less throw than before, but exactly enough for my taste. When the red spring is compressed, the mod's show starts and offers a good feeling for brake modulation. That's what I was looking for!

Is it worth the price? Well, to be honest, measure by the assumed material costs it's still expensive, but let's not forget we're moving in a very niche market and even the tiniest product needs r&d.
So let's forget about material costs and rather ask whether it's worth the investment, and the answer is a "Yes, definitely".

I still would strongly advise the manufacturer to add more information regarding usable springs and setup (options), but apart from that: Nice product that works as advertised.
 
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hi, thanks for the review, Normally, you would have received the notice by e-mail

there must have been something wrong.... strange...

the ideal installation is here:

this configuration is the one that will be the closest to a real gt3 brake pedal, we were measured in a track situation compared to a real gt3.

this includes the pedal attack distance, the preload of the master cylinder, and the maximum pressure at the feeling for your crankset, I suggest to set the soft to 88/94% in the thrustmaster software.

test it ;-)
 
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hi, thanks for the review, Normally, you would have received the notice by e-mail

there must have been something wrong.... strange...

the ideal installation is here:
Now you mention it, I remember you asking for my mail address to send me the manual, but it never came, there's nothing in my spam folder as well.

However, I initially managed to setup the mod as intended by you, but for my liking (and my playseat challenge) it was a bit too stiff, so I'll just leave it as it is right now, because I like it that way. :)
 
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What is it about them that doesnt work for you?

Nothing, in pretty happy with this pedals. After some months I'm now on two red springs with five washers to eliminate the preload and works fine. Just looks like this kind of mod improves the curve of the brake force and also the feeling, at least this is what people says. So I'm curious about it but concerned about its durability against springs
 
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After some months I'm now on two red springs with five washers to eliminate the preload and works fine.

Damn both reds and 5 washers? I know it helps but a mod like the ones above really improves the load cell by providing progressive stiffness without the feeling of stepping on a rock. Before the mod, I put just one of those washers in and that's what it felt like, a "rock!" I believe that all those mods and others maybe not mentioned are all good improvements for your T-LCM's. I simply chose the one closest to home lol... And happy it worked out great! But with mods like these, might need some kind of grease for the brake as lub because the added pressure may cause some minor squeaking over time, but so far over 2 months of use, load cell working perfectly without issue. No damage to report. It just works!

My advice, check reviews if any, or just get one that's close to home. They all look really good anyway. Glad there's a variety to choose from.

I thought this mod would be way too stiff, but when you have it setup, with the brake pressure set accordingly in the software, you shouldn't at anytime be using full braking travel while braking. The last 20-25% of breaking Should only be used as a max pressure point. You aren't using memory distance, still using muscle memory, but just like a real car, unless you need to emergency brake you never really stomp 100% of the brake just to slow the car. You make damn good use of that final 20-25% of pressure to lean on (maybe a little less/more depending on how you have brake pressure setup in T-LCM software). Absolutely love it! Unveiling controlling non abs cars like the LMP2's in RF2 simply just feels so rewarding lap after lap
 
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I just installed the NOX3d mod on my T-LCM pedals. I only used one rubber on the top stack and the improvement in pedal feel is significant. I sim race with left foot braking IMO Thrustmaster has provided almost too many options. I did not see the full reply to this post until after I got the kit and set my pedal force at 80. It is one thing that is not stated in the instructions provided by NOX. Going to re-set it somewhere in the 88-94 range recommended.
 
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So I adjusted the brake force to 90 and promptly lowered my time at Monza on the Forza 7 Rivals part of the game by almost half a second. And as always where one issue fixed begets another issue, I have my rig located to the sofa I sit on by a couple of wooden blocks and now I find that the cushions are too soft and interfere with my braking. I think that the NLR GT lite might be my next investment...
 
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NLR GT lite
is this compatible with DD2 wheels?
Next Level Racing does not explicitly specify.
In their online catalog, DD support is enumerated for 4 cockpits and
explicitly described unsuitable for GTULTIMATE COCKPITV2,
with no mention in descriptions for CHALLENGER, F-GT LITE, WHEEL STANDs RACER & LITE.
A conservative interpretation would have those 4 products incompatible with direct drive;
two customer reviews report F-GT Lite flex with DD
 
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