T300 best settings. There must be.

[kralavci35]

Hello guys. I just bought a Thrustmaster T300. Before, I was using Logitech Dfgt. Does anybody can give me the ideal settings for the T300 if you have. Also, a link or other guide source would be perfect. I tried a little, but my biggest issue is, the wheel is weighty, and the wheel is forcing too much to go back to the center position when I turn it. It is unnatural.

 

[RasmusP]

Profiler:
overal strenght 80 (not shure here)
constant 100
periodic 100
spring 0
damper 100
min damper 0.0 (is that a pfrofiler or game setting?)


auto center 12% (through game)

Looks good. However you can keep the "spring" at 100. It's just the directInput Spring FFB channel. Like the damper ffb channel, it's not doing anything at all if the game doesn't use it.
If a game uses these ffb channels, it's probably for a reason!

auto-center is the one that puts the wheel to the center no matter what the game says (but it's overwritten by the "through game" checkbox).
It's confusing because it's called "center spring" in the Logitech profiler...

In game:
FF strength 100 (I can lower that for each individual car by just pushing +/- on trak right? Seems like a good thing to assign a key on the wheel)
filer 0
minimum force 3

kerbs 5
road 8
slip 25
abs15

enchanced understeer, half ffb - OFF

Looks good too! I'm not sure that you can assign a key.. I guess content manager can do it.
Do you use content manager yet? It's awesome.. And there's the CSP (custom shaders patch) with rain and night and what not..

I have most of this stuff disabled apart from the performance optimizations, TAA (which looks phenomenal in AC) and the new FFB tweaks extension!

I say this because the ffb tweaks extension from CSP replaces the standard gyro, which has some issues regarding realism.

And put slip to 0, I'll tell you why later on

My CM and CSP settings regarding this advanced stuff:
CM:

CSP:

So the kerb setting is only for tracs without 3d kerbs. So there is no fake effekt on kerbs wich are implemented as 3d model or do both effekts take place in that case? And what about the other way - If there is no 3d model every Curb rattels right? Even if its a flat one. Not shure if I would like that. I´m driving Nordschleife most of the time.

It's easy to understand this when you know how the "road" and "kerb" vibrations are activated.
In the track folders, you'll find a "surfaces.ini".
In that ini-file, you'll find entries for every type of surface this track has. Looks like this:

[SURFACE_5]
KEY=CURB
FRICTION=0.95
DAMPING=0
WAV=kerb.wav
WAV_PITCH=1.3
FF_EFFECT=1
DIRT_ADDITIVE=0.0
BLACK_FLAG_TIME=0
IS_VALID_TRACK=1
SIN_HEIGHT=0
SIN_LENGTH=0
IS_PITLANE=0
VIBRATION_GAIN=0.3
VIBRATION_LENGTH=1.5

So whenever your tyres touch the KEY=CURB type of surface, you'll get a vibration sent to your wheel.

Independent of this surface type => vibration, you have the actual physics calculation from the 3D-model of the kerb geometry.

This is why I have this setting so low. I want to know when I'm on a kerb-surface, since the grip is reduced there and I just want the feedback.
But the vibration is low enough to not interfere with the rest of the ffb and especially not with the actual physics from the 3D kerbs.

I am confused why you should want an ABS car feel the same way as a non ABS car. Would you mind to clarify? If I get slipping front tires due to brake bloking I would like the steering to feel extremly light and quit diffrent from the experiece of an only partly blocking ABS brake.

When driving as fast as possible, you need to trailbrake and keep the tyres on the edge of the traction circle.
As soon as your tyres lock up or go into the abs, you won't be able to steer without exceeding the limit.
Of course it's unrealistic to get vibrations from lock ups, it's just feedback so you know that it's happenening. The moment I start to feel the lock-ups in my wheel, it's already too late... The vibrations start earlier though.

So basically:
ABS car: vibrations = needing to lift the brakes to be able to steer
Non-ABS car: vibrations = needing to lift the brakes, and definitely needing to lift the brakes to be able to steer

I simply need the feedback from the vibrations to know when I lifted enough to steer again.
But if you're not driving competitively, setting slip to 0 would be more immersive and realistic. It's fun to have this weird feeling in the wheel when locking up. It's not the fastest, but it's fun

I do not care for competitive driving. All I do is lonesome rounds on the Nordschleife just for fun. In generell my driving style is one with a lose tail. I´m not drivfting all the time but like the feeling to do it in a reasonable maner on at least some corners. Is 20% the right value for me or not?

As written above, put slip to 0 then. Your reasoning makes sense for me

Some additonal Questions:

Should I use the FFB clip application? Seems a good combination with the +/- keys bound to some keys on the wheel. Any good links for a how to?

No, I wouldn't recommend it. At 100% gain in the game you won't have "too bad/much" clipping. It's the default value from Kunos, they don't put garbage as the default.
You get more dynamic though with lower gain values, which is nice if you have enough ffb power in your wheel to make this more dynamic ffb feel good.
With a G27, the ffb would become so light that it wouldn't be fun anymore...

So my advice would be to start with 100% and then lower each car to your liking (or even raise it, if a car is weak..).
But I'm going to "correct" myself under your next quote...

Not so shure about the base and in game gain strength for my t300? Should I go for 100/100 or 80/100 or 100/80? I like it harsh and strong but not unrealistic in my small experiance in the real world there are forces at work my g27 could not even come close to display.

80/100 or 100/80 will result in exactly the same AVERAGE force in your hands.
But 80 game and 100 wheel will give the headroom for the game to go up to 100. So you end up with 80/100 average and 100/100 peak forces.

With 100 game and 80 wheel, you end up with 80 average and 80 peak.

Note: you won't have 80 all the time! The ffb will be around 0-10% on the straights and go up between 60-100 when cornering.

I would say going with 80/100 is better. The wheel should be able to take some higher force peaks

If I use a high value how likly is it to harm my wheel? Is forcing the fan allways on helping and how do I do that?

I don't know.. some say it's fine for multiple years, some say it broke their wheel.. There's no reliable statistic about this.
Putting the fans to always on will help though, yes!

For how to force the fans on:

Little dilema, what would you do...

When I got back into sim racing awhile back, I blew my budget on the computer so I have been using my old T150 with t3pa pedals while I save for a Fanatec. As luck would have it, the T150 is going south in a hurry and I don't have the funds for the Fanatec yet. I can afford a T300RS now to go...

www.racedepartment.com

boomRoasted put the part of the manual in there

 

[FabianX2]

Ok thanks @Tassos @ @RasmusP. Now I´ll have to wait for the T300. As soon as it arrives I´ll try both ways. I´m really happy with fast responses and clear instructions. Very helpful! Thanks again.

Do you use content manager yet?

No didn´t know it. Trying the free version right now or do I need the full version?
I cant find the Experimental settings of your first screenshot. And what about all the other settings especially the CSP setting? Do I keep all but the things you did show in the screenshots on default?

To be shure about strength: 100% in Profiler, 80% in game or the other way arround?

Any suggestions for other settings like Grafiks, Mods etc.? Im using 3900XT, 1080gtx (still waiting for the 3080 ), 64gb ram playing direktly in fornt of a 65oled 4k. Distanz is the space I need for the Playseat Challanger. I´m new to all of this. Befor I was playing only ocassionally with the G27 tabelmounted on my normal pc screen. Initialy I wanted to start my comeback with ASC but no Nordschleife no Deal

 

[RasmusP]

No didn´t know it. Trying the free version right now or do I need the full version?
I cant find the Experimental settings of your first screenshot. And what about all the other settings especially the CSP setting? Do I keep all but the things you did show in the screenshots on default?

Not sure if you need the full version for the experimental settings.. Did you select "Unlock experimental options" to make them visible or is the full "Experimental:" missing?
Anyway I'd recommend the full version either way. Give that guy 1-5€ for his work

About CSP settings: everything that's red is NOT default, everything else is default.

Any suggestions for other settings like Grafiks, Mods etc.? Im using 3900XT, 1080gtx (still waiting for the 3080 ), 64gb ram playing direktly in fornt of a 65oled 4k. Distanz is the space I need for the Playseat Challanger. I´m new to all of this. Befor I was playing only ocassionally with the G27 tabelmounted on my normal pc screen. Initialy I wanted to start my comeback with ASC but no Nordschleife no Deal

Plenty of AC settings guides out there, just google

What is ASC?

To be shure about strength: 100% in Profiler, 80% in game or the other way arround?

100% profiler + 80% game will give you "better" FFB but might hurt the wheel, nobody really knows.

80% profiler + 100% game will give you "worse" ffb but will definitely not hurt the wheel.

Your choice

 

[AmazingReflex]

The first part of Rasmus' FFB guidance is from the Assetto Corsa tab of CM for controls. You will have to enable Custom Shader patch in CM for the 'FFB Tweaks' section I think.

As he said, put your wheel driver properties to 100% outside of the game and dial down 'in game' to something like 70% overall force gain to start with. As he said, the game then has the headroom when it wants to go beyond the 70% force limit, which it will when it spikes occasionally.

You can fine tune FFB for each car using +/- numpad keys when driving. Each car feels different. I found some cars give a good responsive FFB and others seem a bit flat.

I found the Maclaren P1 GTR a good car to dial in FFB with. Personal taste though. Each to their own. Just looked it up. £2 million pound when it was new

 

[FabianX2]

Plenty of AC settings guides out there, just google

Ok will do.

What is ASC?

I meant ACC. Sorry,

The first part of Rasmus' FFB guidance is from the Assetto Corsa tab of CM for controls. You will have to enable Custom Shader patch in CM for the 'FFB Tweaks' section I think.

Got it. THX

Ok perfekt. Thanks again. I feel set for Monday. Still hoping by refreshing the delivery page it will somehow arrive tomorrow I´ll start with the Z4 Gt3 that was my favorite years ago. Perfect to compare the old wheel. After that ill Hop in the P1. I´ll sum up my experiance and post my settings.

 

[AmazingReflex]

The Z4 Gt3 is a monster car. Try it round Nordschleife and the front will lift.

 

[Bob Gnarley]

@RasmusP

Your settings have been transformational for me. Fantastic job man, many thanks!

 

[FabianX2]

Update:

I did test and generally like the T300. So I will keep it. But I still need some help with the FBB settings. Biggest issue is the feel of the front wheels while loosing grip. In grippy Situations they feel good build wheight nicely but do not nearly get light enough when losing grip. Understeet still feels gripy even decreasing the corner angel feels still like there is lots of grip left. Dont get me wrong the wheels get a bit lighter but only marginaly. Same story for loing grip while breaking. I did provoke it by disabling ABS and setting brace balance itentionaly horrible. Front wheels fully sliding still feel gripy and not nealry lose enouth.

Here are my Settings:
FBB in Game Settings
CSP Settings
TM Settings (1080)

 

[RasmusP]

All settings are looking perfect!
For more understeer "feel", activate the "enhanced understeer effect" in your first link (CM FFB settings).

It's "fake", but it should do what you want

It's really helpful when starting with simracing. At some point many people get annoyed by the way too massive drop-off of FFB, since you actually need to just slightly dip into the "too much turning" when going for the best times.