Static to Motion Moxley's Way 2Dof to 3Dof

Hey Guys, Finally a compilation of what i came from and where at right now. There's been many guys over the years who have helped with small thing's to Big thing's and want to thank them all the utmost. Without You the Rig wouldn't be what it is today.

I Started out life as a KB racer playing F1 2011 and soon Stepped up to a G27..Wow what a Difference. So worth the 270$ or w/e it cost But as time went on racing in a Desk chair Sucks as im sure All of you will attest to. I tried a few different unique ways to hold the chair in place form Towels to little blocks of wood cut to raise the wheels up of the carpet. While functional to a point there had to be a better way, So I asked a Tuner buddy who builds Crazy turbo Hondas if he had any old race seat's kicking around. 20 minutes later i had a Genuine Sparco Fighter for a whopping 25$....Now here's the catch, It was beat to Shi* and essentially needed a Bed sheet to cover it and forget all the battle Scars, tear's and Poor ass leather patch jobs the seats endured over the years. So build a Basic square box which was eventually modded into this. Legs were attached when the COG became too far back and the seat would fall over. Lol









At this stage i had already dismounted the Stock G27 wheel in favor of a Stripped down Steelseries SRW-S1 which was mounted with a simple CF plate with threads and 4 holes in the wheel base I also retain the stock Shifter's as the S1's are pretty poor and have a weak link in the spring they use, More pics on that can be found here if curious. here


Note, If you want your S1 to survive a decent amount of time under a FFB base, Do this.








Old Bed Sheet Seat with the AeroDesigns Arges which was bought when i realized the Fighter's padding wasn't up to snuff for the long races. yes i could have sourced some Foam or something to freshed it up, But i Always wanted a "wrap around" GT style seat like this and when i found one locally for a decent price it was Far too hard to pass it up. Sparco was sold off to a buddy who also build a static sim for playing GT6.












Next was the Stock Logi pedals, When searching and bring a noobie I saw all these Hydraulic and Load cell brakes and wanted to play with some Rc shock which i happen to have a Whack load of and eventually came up with this. Stock Logitech spring opened up a hair to clip onto the shock collars and 4 of 6 holes glued shut on the pistons on 45wt oil. I also added some AKA tire foam donut onto the shaft to have a real hard point at the end of the stroke while still maintaining Full travel.



While it somewhat worked i felt again there had to be a better way, So after searching a few For sale threads on a few forums, I found Jon aka Basherboards selling a B.N set of clubsport V2's which i promptly snatched up.



Now from having a Rc Racing backround, I knew the stock Fana shock was a POS the second i took it apart to inspect and fill with oil. promptly decided it was to be tossed in favor of something from my 1/8 racer's. The 1/8 Mugen 6 line use the same length shocks for buggy and truggy and I had a spare set of shocks i bought a while back and turns out the rear's almost Drop right on with a Slight bit of modding to the mounting point, which I have to admit I already modded for the stock Shock as the Top of the shock cap was slowly being worn away by the mount. CHECK your shocks I wouldn't doubt if they All have the same wear spot.
After a few days of testing i settled on the stock pistons with 35wt oil and a Kyosho Hard blue spring.

thread for the mounting details can be foundhttp://racedepartment.tv/forums/topic/12267-club-sport-pedals-v2-shock-replacement-suggestion/ or

http://racedepartment.tv/forums/topic/11365-clubsport-pedals-2014/








Ok so next dilemma was the fact that the Fana Load cell was overpowering my pedal box and basically making all sorts of creaks and cracks under load, The rear pedal box posts essentially butted up to the 2 corner angles of the back of the desk and would sometimes go a little crooked if you hammered on the brakes, I wasn't allowed to Drill through the carpet and into the Hardwood underneath so the next quest started, A new PC build, New 47" Samsung and New 5.1 Pioneer setup for my room downstairs which has room for an actual Rig. So the Rig build begins.


The Step Up, was to compensate for a Large Metal Shelving unit the TV sits on and to get the Rig as Close to the TV as possible.

Base and pedal box attached with new Raiser for the wheel base.
Base was left Long to allow a 8" powered sub to sit right behind the seat.






1000$ budget for the PC build and we got the Final bill to 999.95$ with a few extra manager discounts thrown in at the last minute, (Thanks MemoryExpress)

Tv also came from them, Samsung 47" 1080HD 120 for a whopping 450$ also after manager discounts due to being the Last one...>Score.

[/[URL=http://s150.photobucket.com/user/davidmoxley123/media/Sim%20Racing/preview_image_0_54407452x_zps0a569163.jpg.html]


I kept the PC upstairs and Ran a 24' HDMI and 2 10' USB extensions to my Room downstairs. Got a powered USB hub and have Just enough ports to do what im up to Currently, might need to add a 2nd Hub.


So here's the finished product basically what i had envisioned and it allowed me to get my eyes to within 26"(i think) of the TV for a decent FOV.



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Lol Kjell, Its a Pump enclosure for Ekretz Motor mod on my CSW.


This will also double as a stand for this Bad boy.
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Fan's mounted Tested a Work Freaking awesome,

Intake 120mm fan is 2000rpm and 70 CFM

Exhaust 80mm is also 2000rpm but only 31cfm



 
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If you want to run the Buhler's to the max, your going to need a Cooling solution, Thats part of Eric's mod, the little molded pieces that are pushing air Directly into the Motor Vs Heatsink cooling which is taking heat from the Outside of the motor which only does so much.

What i have Is a Medical Grade pump that flow's roughly 30 L/min, Downside is the sound/Vibrations which is now moot, Never ever will i hear the pump itself over the rig or even a Idle in the pits. Plus I needed a PC stand and this seems to have fit the bill nicely. :p
 
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Got the New Kill Switches in and got em wired up last night, The little LED light ensures u know WHERE to smash the kill button in the dark lol.

Needed the 4th "contact block" to control the 3 PSU turn on pins. the Yellow Block is strictly for the led, Also The Switch does not work the LED, the psu does however.

 
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So buddy's rig is somewhat coming along, Got a rough sketch drawn up and he just recently got to test fit the seat. He Fits, Success lol


Here's what i found myself building over Xmas, from a mere 90-100Fps in AC with More than adequate setting's to 250+fps with everything near max.......Amazing how much easier it is to drive at 300+km/h lol

 
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Looks nice! But.... shuoldn't the seat press forward when accelerating (car pushes body due to inertia), and fall back when braking (body continues forward due to inertia)? I haven't tested any of theese contraptions but physics is physics or what?
 
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Whats up with the hat?


Trying to display the very small oscillation you get from a quality laser scan and a Properly set up suspension can prove difficult, I first hit on it when watching an early beta video for some FCM stuff i was working on, the keyboard mount would do a little jiggle under oscillation. I thought about it and found a spring, added a little white poof ball and I haven't had anyone say it wasn't a great idea to display the fine detail we've build into the suspension and Kunos has into the track.



Looks nice! But.... shuoldn't the seat press forward when accelerating (car pushes body due to inertia), and fall back when braking (body continues forward due to inertia)? I haven't tested any of theese contraptions but physics is physics or what?


"Surge" is the Axis you are referring to and it may not appear like a lot of motion, Ask any Seat mover owner and they will confirm its not the BIG sloshy movements that trick the brain but rather Sharp Crisp Small motions.
Remember we cant simulate G's (within budget) so Fast quick ques do the trick very well. If your curious about more details on the mechanical side of thing's, Check out the Xsimulator forum. A Wealth of knowledge and Tonnes of great guys willing to help a fellow enthusiast get Something they never thought they could. (myself included)
 
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I just read through the thread again, just as impressed this time with your build, something tells me you enjoy building this just as much as you do using it :p
Have you seen the Pagnian Next Level motion add-on for their rig? Was just wondering if their approach to motion is similar to what you've made?
 
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Thanks Kjell, I do actually enjoy the building, As to liking it more than driving.....maybe, lol

Next Level is decent but completely different, Mine being a true Shoulder mount seat mover (with TL) and the Next level being a "desk racer" style with actuator's under the seat, Far less power to be gotten from the motor's due to their mounting position's. Leverage is your friend and sure my rig might be significantly larger foot print than a Desk racer, You sure ain't getting traction loss on a desk racer Nor will you have as violent and precise of an Overall setup.

In case i didn't add it anywhere in this thread, overall motion costs were under 1100-1200$ Not including all the little accessories ive acquired over the years.


3X JRK's 300
3X PSU's 70
3X Motors 270
3X Pots 60
Seat frame + all welding 200
3X Fans 30
Control box 5
wire 20
6X Rod ends 15
Nuts and bolts 40
Heat Sinks 5
3X Flex Couplers 10

plus all the applicable taxes(locally) and shipping to get it to me,
 
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So Recently ive been discussing with some of the Motion guys about the Traction loss frame requiring a little more support rather than just a lazy susan/bearing up front and a pair of Caster's out back. I noticed on my rig as well there was some "rocking" of the top frame at the front end on either side of the lazy susan. So without getting crazy technical with Caster's and plates to roll on, I fashioned this up with a pair of these roller balls, I had always wanted to play with them and actually found this pair in my shop so went to work with some Steel and aluminum angle.

I used a "wedge" to slightly lift the top frame so when i pulled the wedge, the balls have some tension on them.






 
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Good stuff mate, good idea to stop the rocking without causing undue friction. it always helps to save stuff you have that might be useful later. I have a box with lots of compartments filled with all sorts of do-dads, call it ''my box of tricks''

Cheers mate, AussieStig
 
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Decided it was time for a Handbrake. Looked at a few DIY versions and set off scrounging for parts in the work shop, Turns out i had everything i needed, Including a Spare "Axis and Pot " on my SRW S1 to keep thing's simple.

The parts, An old Door protection plate, M10 bolt and spring, 5mm Aluminum plate, SRW S1 Pot with custom Carbon Fiber servo arm, Length of 8mm Hardboard for supports, Large supply of 1/4" nuts, bolts and washers, High pressure Grease, Small Servo Link arm and finally an E-cig Drip tip condom to prevent the spring from catching on the M10 threads













Next problem was a potential big one, I do use my rig for other games that dont include the motion or the wheel and pedals so i need to have a proper mouse pad availible, The hand brake was going to be right in the way technically.....so i started to play with a few angles and Oh my lord its gonna work out perfect, Mouse pad fits JUST Sooooo. Wow its like i planned it out somehow. lol









In the end this cost 0$ and good session in the work shop playing around, Couldn't be much happier with the overall feel and position of the HB. one more project off the list.
 
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