My homemade FFB controller

Hi, simracer fans :)

I just wanted to show you my last project.
After seeing the Steph Bord and V8Ben videos I wanted an FFB Happ steering wheel too !

But, instead of hacking a logitech board, I built my own FFB controller:
42497761.jpg


It's based on a Blueboard LPC1768H (I have also a version for LPCXPRESSO), 34$.

The main specs are:
- 1 kHz refresh rate output signal (ie: for AMC)
- 1 kHz refresh rate for USB data coming from game (even if most games actually update the data only 60-100 times per sec.)
- incremental rotary encoder for the steering wheel position (I'm using a 2048CPR, 8192 position per rotation, on direct drive)
- compatible with G25 pedals (and shifter soon)
- configuration via OLED display (soon)
- FFB monitoring, to avoid clipping (currently via serial port, and on OLED soon)
- no need to any driver

To drive the motor, I'm currently using an AMC servo drive, but I will build my own motor controller once the firmware is finished (for brushed and brushless motors).

I also removed the mechanical stop of the steering wheel, since it's managed with the motor (the steering angle is configurable).

This setup is more strong and fun than my G25 (I rediscover rFactor that I disliked before).
I can have strong FFB effects without clipping.

I think to provide a firmware soon (maybe for few bucks or donation).
 
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All these configurations have been discussed on the RFR forum.
You're right, the mechanical power needed is around 200-400W, that's why these powerfull motors are under powered (48V-5/10A).
But you forgot the main criteria of the system (at least on RFR forum): final price.
Do you know any brand new servo motor - low backlash gearbox combo + suitable servo drive (usually with proprietary protocol for the encoder and directly connected on the high voltage electrical network), that costs $500 ? If so, please tell us where.

Pulley system isn't cheap either, look at the magicfr wheel.
 
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I just wanted to add that I am interested in building my own wheel as well and am following this thread with allot of excitement. Everything mentioned so far looks incredibly promising.

Are you looking to still make the software available or open source ?
 
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Hello,

Now it's alive :) !
A first little video of the wheel at work with rFactor2:



For this video I use a xBox360 for gas and brake, because my pedals isn't ready, but it just show that the wheel is working (and work nice :thumbsup: , the feeeling is great :inlove: , I owned a CSW wheel before, and without setting anything special the feeling is as good or better :cool: ! ) ...

No cogging, and very smooth FFB!

Be patient, and you can do it too ;) ...
 
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What about this as a budget DIY sim wheel idea?

This board(would it work?) http://www.ebay.com/itm/NXP-LPC1768...US_Ham_Radio_Transmitters&hash=item33694d56aa , A couple of car wiper motors with machined off wormgears, car engine toothed pulleys. And a DIY Aganyte board the french use as an amplifier? I mean this could fall under 200eur (and probably 60 hours of labour :)) and I'm seriously considering this. What you guys think?

What part is responsible for the registration of the wheel position?

The more expensive servo motor as described here can read any position and get it self in any position/ with a adjustable resistance they are programmed to do so by the driver.

For your solution i think the controler need to work very differently, more like a conventional FFB wheel.
 
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The problem with wiper motors is the cogging. It's very dificult to found low cost DC or AC motors with torque and low or no cogging. If the torque is too low, you must have big reduction with big latency and no precision...And there is the price of gearbox or pulley system too...

Our conclusion is that the Tortue G system with a big AC servomotor low cost and direct drive is the best combo for a price of a CSW. It is far better...
 
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Sorry to beg , But I'm looking to build a FFB servo wheel very soon is there a lose idea of time frame as to when this will be possible ? ( having control software available)

If I could build something for £350-500 that would be perfect , but I can stretch to £800-1200 if it reliably works.
 
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