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Just discovered RBR and have a few questions...

Discussion in 'Richard Burns Rally' started by Rob Carr, Oct 28, 2010.

  1. Hey guys, so a buddy and I stumbled across this title while checking out WRC 2010. I've bought the original PC version off Amazon, so I am wondering what I need to download while I am waiting for the delivery?

    BTW, here is my system specs:

    Windows 7 x64
    ATI 5850
    Fanatec GT3RS + Clubsport Pedals
    ASUS 26" Widescreen LCD

    Thanks guys!
  2. Hiya and welcome :welcome:

    There are two major mods that I know of, the Czech mod (http://rbr.onlineracing.cz/index.php?setlng=eng), which I have no experience with, and RSRBR, which we use for online rallies here.

    This post contains installation instructions for the game and RSRBR add on, with links to everything you need: http://www.racedepartment.com/richard-burns-rally/31470-rsrbr2010-installing-using-guidelines.html

    Have fun, ask if you get stuck, and hope to see you in rallies here :rally:
  3. Thanks for the reply, and welcome. I will definitely be downloading the RSRBR mod, and I may try the other one too. Any issues that you know of with my system specs? Does it run fine with Win 7 x64? Also, how is the online play? How does that work?
  4. There is also the Italian mod at http://www.rbr-online.it they run live rallies scheduled during Italian timezone.

    I have not used either the Czech nor the Italian mod, once I found RSRBR there was no need to even try them! I might in the future just to see what they are like.

    RSRBR2010 is really the one to have IMO, it can be overwhelming at first, but worth it.

    My top 5 mods:
    1) RSRBR2010 (cars, tracks, online racing - all in one) - http://rallyesim.com/accueil_en.html
    2) Camhack (comes with RSRBR2010) - http://www.tocaedit.com
    3) Numeric Pacenotes - http://www.kegetys.net/rbr/
    4) Guager (temeletry) - http://www.geocities.jp/v317mt/
    5) HDR - http://www.racedepartment.com/richard-burns-rally/21396-rbr-hdr-plugin.html
  5. If you're going to try the other one too, make a second install of the game. I believe they don't play nice together.

    No issues that I can see. I run the game fine in Win 7 64. The only thing you need to be careful of is to install the game somewhere other than Program Files.

    As far as online play goes, it's all done via the RSRBR application. A session is created at a certain time, people join, and drive the stages. You drive alone, no ghost cars or anything. When you finish the stage, you're taken back to the RSRBR application, and there you see splits and stage times other drivers did. Then you go to the next stage, and so on and so on.
    It's great fun, for me at least :)

    Have you found a way to run the gauger and HDR at the same time? :eek:
  6. Thanks for all the great info guys. I really appreciate your help!
  7. No, I haven't :(
  8. don't want to start a new thread but::wink:

    Is there a place to download setups for certain tracks.

    I usually prefer Subaru, but I'm like a 6-y/o when properly playing RBR. Is there some where to download car set up for certain tracks?:confused:

    Still trying to understand my G27 also.

    Is there a thread for n00bs?:confused:

    thanks :cool:
  9. LOL, unfortunately there is no quick fix for setups. As in real life the set up for each car, stage and (most important) drive changes. If you let us know what the car id\s doing and what you want it to do someone here will be able to give you some ideas.

    RBR is something you will always be learning, thats what makes it great;)
  10. I made a short video on what I'm doing wrong lately. I set my settings to default, so at least it comes down to my driving and not the car nor the games fault.
    then from there, maybe a setting can be made.
    advance thanks to all those who reply constructively :)

  11. Check the attachement, this is a .txt file with some useful benchmark values for each style of track, which I found on Rallyesim.fr(can't recall exactly in which section so I can't give you the link to the original thread). It's in french only unfortunately, but using google translate should be enough to understand the meaning of each value. Note that those should only used for set bases, obviously you will have to tweak a bit your set to make it feel with the car you are using.​

    From what I've seen in the video, it seems like you keep locking your tyres any time you are breaking(correct me if I'm wrong). I don't think the default break settings on WRC cars are that much wrong, I belive it's rather you being too aggressive with the breaks. Try to break earlier and carefully at first.​

    Also you are shifting up way too early, try taking more RPMs.

    I have to say I'm still pretty much learning on that game too, so maybe wait for someone more experienced to come for a more detailed and reliable analysis.​

    Attached Files:

  12. Thanks Yann
    Hopefully I can get some free time to go over these notes.
  13. Not really. Shifting around 5k, 5,5k tops is optimal in most WRCs (Focus being a slight exception, as it has 5 gears and revs up to just under 6k).
  14. Then I'm doing it wrong. Duh :p
  15. here's a shocker: I'm driving automatic

    I'm probably revving it around corners to make the car slip more, ala drift, vs keeping it at lower gear to spin tires more than need to.

    @Yanna, I think I understand what you mean by locking the brakes, hence loosing steering.
    I'll try to brake even more earlier and try to go stay low on the revs
  16. Save the handbrake for the really tight turns (or those "oh bugger I'm going to hit that tree!" moments). You can throw the car into corners a bit more; run through the Rally School lessons to see how to deal with different grade bends.
  17. Yep, handbrake use should pretty much come by itself. When the car understeers you can simply just lock the rear wheels for a split second and get it to face the correct direction. Don't do it too early and remember to let go of the brake at all times when doing so - otherwise your car will loose all the traction and just understeer like a brick, completely unresponsive.

    The default brakes in WRCs are pretty powerful, I find myself mostly feathering the left pedal while driving them, pressing it harder only in the early phase of braking/with good grip, on clear brakings. The higher the speed, the harder you can press, simply put.

    Also I advise you to try the manual ASAP. With the slower cars it might be possible to drive with the AT, but you loose the ability to drop a gear and hit the throttle when in a bad slide or just in need of more power, as the slushbox isn't the best downshifter in these situations.
  18. I totally agree with Lukasz, try to learn to drive with manual gearbox as soon as possible. You can control your braking and downhill sections much better by downshifting at the right time.
    Also, I have reduced the sensitivity of my braking response by adjusting the curvature in the Controller Options section. I use quite a lot of curvature so that I can get more sensitive control over lock-ups with lighter pedal pressure. I also brake early and lighter, more control into a turn allows you to power out of the turn better.
  19. Can I see your curvature(s) so I can get a baseline. I'm not sure how much I should shave off. Do I shave like 10pts or 20 pts to get a dramatic result?
  20. My settings (including curvatures) can be found in this thread (the third post):

    These settings may need to be varied depending on which controller you use, I use a G25 wheel.