FFB Setting Explanations



Inverted FFB:
Enable it if your wheel pulls in the wrong direction.

FFB Intensity:
Adjusts the overall strength.

Smoothing:
Filters out peaks in the FFB, for example when driving over big kerbs.
Increase it if you think your wheel makes too much noise over kerbs.
Decrease it if you think the FFB feels washed out.
Recommended setting: between 0 - 50%



Steering Force Intensity:
Adjusts the forces generated from cornering.
Increase it to make the wheel stiffer and to get more feedback when the car is oversteering.
Decrease it if you experience clipping.
Recommended setting: between 100 - 150%

Understeer:
Controls how light the wheel will get when understeering.
Decrease if you loose force too quickly when entering a corner.
Increase if you can´t feel the grip loss when entering a corner.
Recommended setting: between 50 - 100%


Vertical Load:
Controls how strong vertical forces on the tyres are reflected in the FFB.
Mostly used to feel bumps on the road.
Increase to feel more details of the driving surface.
Decrease if bumps are too strong.
Recommended setting: between 100 - 200%

Lateral Force:
Controls how strong lateral forces on the tyres are reflected in the FFB.
Increase to make the wheel stiffer.
Decrease if the FFB looses too much detail (clipping).
Recommended setting: Between 25 - 75 %

Steering Rack:
Choose how much of the lateral forces are calculated using the steering rack of the car instead of the tyres.
Recommended setting: Personal preference





Engine Vibrations:
Intensity of vibrations generated by the engine of the car
Decrease if there is too much noise in the FFB
Increase to get more feedback from the engine.

Kerb Vibrations:
Adjust the amount of vibrations resulting from rumble strips (2D kerbs)
This setting does not affect forces coming from 3D kerbs (use vertical load & smoothing to adjust that).

Shift Effect:
Adjusts how strong the kick from shifting is.


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FFB Meter
In the secondary controller settings you will find an option to bind a key for the FFB Meter.
Once enabled, the yellow line marks your minimum force setting, and the red line shows the maximum force.
The green graph displays the steering forces sent to your wheel.

If the graph exceeds the red line you are experiencing "Clipping"
Clipping means, that your wheel has reached the maximum output force and you won't feel any difference above that limit.

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Minimum Force
The minimum Force Setting can be found in the FFB Settings Menu, and will allow you to amplify all the small FFB forces that your wheel might not be able to put out. That means small bumps and steering forces will be increased to a point where you can actually feel them through your wheel and thereby adding more details to your FFB.
This will also help eliminate the "dead center feeling" occurring with some of the wheels.

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Slip Effect
This Effect simulates the shuttering of your tires as they struggle for grip,
which occurs for example during wheelspin, understeering, sliding and even on heavy braking.
Depending on the amount of grip as well as the rotation speed of your tires you will feel a vibration indicating that your tires are slipping.
The higher the rotation speed of your tires, the higher the frequency of the vibrations is.
The more grip your tires loose, the higher the amplitude of the vibration will be.


Stationary Friction
This will deal with the problem of wheels rotating by themselves if the car is stationary, for example in garage or on the starting grid.
This won't be an option you will find in the menu, and it only takes effect, if the car moves slower then a couple of meter per second.

FFB Multiplier
Since the FFB in R3E is based on the car physics (Tire load & grip + suspension geometry), different cars result in different FFB strength.
So in the past you might have found your perfect FFB settings for one car, only to find out they don't work as well with another car.
To avoid this, you are now able to adjust the cars individual FFB strength by changing the FFB Multiplier.
You will find this new Setting in the Car Setup>Steering Settings.
Increase the FFB Multiplier if a particular car feels too weak.
Decrease it, if the FFB of the car is causing heavy clipping.

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Recommended Settings
1. Start by choosing the new default profile for your wheel in the Controller Profiles Menu. It contains presets for all the new settings.

2. To adjust the FFB strength individually per car, change the FFB Multiplier in the Car Setup>Steering Settings Menu

3. Depending on the Wheel you own, choose how much Clipping you want to allow.



    • If you for example own a Logitech G27, you should aim for Mild Clipping values, in order not to loose too much of the overall FFB Strength.
    • If you own a high end, direct driven wheel you can easily set it up for Zero Clipping, for the maximum amount of detail.

rqiMTHK.jpg
 
I'm really struggling to get anything close to working with my new Simcube OSW wheel. I seem to have it close until I get an input from a kerb of similar and then it pulls to the left like I'm on 3 wheels, hit something else and it centres up again. Any help would be appreciated
 
Struggling to understand the differences between tire force vs steering rack, in terms of the different in FBB, I have been tweaking the settings on/off for weeks, I have got it set up so it is either amazing for closed wheel cars and lacking for open wheelers, or amazing in open wheelers but lacking for closed, I am looking for an answer to this question to work out what the best option is.

Thanks
 
I won't attempt to explain the technical differences other than the feeling from grip opposed to the resistance, or lack there of, of the steering mechanism. I found to tune FFB with a car I felt confident with and then adjust the multiplier for different cars opposed to trying to dial each one in individually.
 
I won't attempt to explain the technical differences other than the feeling from grip opposed to the resistance, or lack there of, of the steering mechanism. I found to tune FFB with a car I felt confident with and then adjust the multiplier for different cars opposed to trying to dial each one in individually.
The issue I have is the formula cars feel great when loaded up with downforce, but when they are going at lower speeds the steering is way too light.
 
The issue I have is the formula cars feel great when loaded up with downforce, but when they are going at lower speeds the steering is way too light.

If your wheel feels light at lower speeds something that will likely help you is increasing the minimum force feedback setting. This increases the low end forces and I find it very useful especially with Logitech wheels and probably TX/T300 as well (not sure about the rest).

I have got it set up so it is either amazing for closed wheel cars and lacking for open wheelers, or amazing in open wheelers but lacking for closed

If the multiplier isn't helping you with this and you found 2 completely different settings that work for you, a way around it is creating 2 different FFB profiles, one for closed cars and one for OW. The only thing you'll need to do is switch from one profile to the other in the settings menu (which takes you 5 seconds to do), but ideally you want to find just one and use the individual multiplier.
 
This increases the low end forces and I find it very useful especially with Logitech wheels and probably TX/T300 as well (not sure about the rest).

There's no real technical reason to increase the minimum force on TX/T300 as there's no FFB deadzone to speak of on these. You can obviously do it if that's what you like, but the default 2 % are really all that's needed.
 
There's no real technical reason to increase the minimum force on TX/T300 as there's no FFB deadzone to speak of on these. You can obviously do it if that's what you like, but the default 2 % are really all that's needed.

Yeah I wasn't sure about this since I own a Logitech but I mentioned them as a "probability" since they are also on the low-force spectrum of consumer wheels and even though technically it might not be needed, it could give him the feel he's looking for, since tire feel is where I find R3E lacking vs RF2 and AMS
 
The issue I have is the formula cars feel great when loaded up with downforce, but when they are going at lower speeds the steering is way too light.

This is an issue in every game, exacerbated by the widespread use of 'toy' wheels that simply cant output the extreme forces some of these cars are capable of creating.

As for steering rack, I would create your FFB profile without that one. So, I would highly recommend using 0%. Im not sure what the technical aspect of steering rack is supposed to do for the FFB, but using it on my G27 only ever adds vibration and it feels awful :p

Some people like it though, so it's of course personal preference.
 
This is an issue in every game, exacerbated by the widespread use of 'toy' wheels that simply cant output the extreme forces some of these cars are capable of creating.

As for steering rack, I would create your FFB profile without that one. So, I would highly recommend using 0%. Im not sure what the technical aspect of steering rack is supposed to do for the FFB, but using it on my G27 only ever adds vibration and it feels awful :p

Some people like it though, so it's of course personal preference.

Agreed. I don't get the vibration but the FFB goes very numb when I use steering rack. Setting it at zero makes it feel like I want it to. I also have pretty light FFB with open wheelers in slow speed turns but I figure that's somewhat to be expected since you don't have all the downforce pressing your tires into the track.
 
Agreed. I don't get the vibration but the FFB goes very numb when I use steering rack. Setting it at zero makes it feel like I want it to. I also have pretty light FFB with open wheelers in slow speed turns but I figure that's somewhat to be expected since you don't have all the downforce pressing your tires into the track.
I have tried both 100% and 0% steering rack, nearly everyone says 100% steering rack is the best, when I try 0% I have to turn the intensity down or i get loads of clipping
 
I have tried both 100% and 0% steering rack, nearly everyone says 100% steering rack is the best, when I try 0% I have to turn the intensity down or i get loads of clipping

Personal preference thing I guess, I can't stand the way it feels with steering rack because there's so much less information coming through the wheel. I don't really have any clipping with my settings, maybe an occasional spike over a curb but that's it.
 
I have tried both 100% and 0% steering rack, nearly everyone says 100% steering rack is the best, when I try 0% I have to turn the intensity down or i get loads of clipping

If you are getting a lot of clipping from turning steering rack down, it might be worth playing around with some of the other settings. I imagine you might be using a steering force intensity that is a bit too high. Generally, <100% is recommended as any higher than that will start clipping pretty quickly, and some of the more subtle forces will get drowned out.

You mentioned not feeling much when driving certain cars before, and while this wont correct that, it will improve some feel of the road surface. Both lateral force and vertical force would be something to play around with too. These too should not really go over 100%. I would recommend ~80% vert and ~60% lateral. Having a bit higher vertical compared to lateral will give you a bit better feeling of the road. Cranking those up over 100 will also start to clip rather quickly.

Maybe this would help :)
 
I actually seem to be having almost an opposite problem - the FFB seems so much stronger in R3E than in other games (especially AMS), yet I usually get nowhere near the clipping point. Don't understand it, really, I would've expected the strength of the FFB to be fairly similar between sims.
 
So played around using 0% steering rack (ie 100 % tires), the steering just has so much more weight, but at all times, regardless off speed it always seem to be at least 50% power, it is like there is a constant damper making it difficult to turn.
I have lateral force on 50%
I adjusted the FFB multipler so that it doesnt clip, but there seems to be a constant force, even in open wheelers at low speed.
Running Fanatec Clubsport v2 and using 3 drift setting
 
I actually seem to be having almost an opposite problem - the FFB seems so much stronger in R3E than in other games (especially AMS), yet I usually get nowhere near the clipping point. Don't understand it, really, I would've expected the strength of the FFB to be fairly similar between sims.

Pretty much the opposite for me, never clip in other games but in R3E I regularly get a few spikes above the red line. I always find it fascinating how we can all have such different experiences with the same basic software/hardware.

So played around using 0% steering rack (ie 100 % tires), the steering just has so much more weight, but at all times, regardless off speed it always seem to be at least 50% power, it is like there is a constant damper making it difficult to turn.
I have lateral force on 50%
I adjusted the FFB multipler so that it doesnt clip, but there seems to be a constant force, even in open wheelers at low speed.
Running Fanatec Clubsport v2 and using 3 drift setting

What are your other settings (both in game and on wheel)? Is your FFB Intensity really high? Getting the FFB in R3E dialed in can be a bit of a dark art but if you share your settings perhaps someone can help you figure it out.
 
I have been doing alot of testing, I have concluded that majority steering rack is definitely the way to go, I am running 100% steering rack again. Using only tire force has a constant damper regardless of speed, I have altered every setting both in game and fanatec settings and still i have a very heavy wheel, which has little different in weight throw the corners, with using steering rack the wheel really loads up through corners
I run
steering force intensity 100%
min force - 10%
understeer 50%
vertical - 60%
lateral - 60%
steering rack - 100%
 

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