FFB Setting Explanations

[2scoops]

Inverted FFB:
Enable it if your wheel pulls in the wrong direction.

FFB Intensity:
Adjusts the overall strength.

Smoothing:
Filters out peaks in the FFB, for example when driving over big kerbs.
Increase it if you think your wheel makes too much noise over kerbs.
Decrease it if you think the FFB feels washed out.
Recommended setting: between 0 - 50%



Steering Force Intensity:
Adjusts the forces generated from cornering.
Increase it to make the wheel stiffer and to get more feedback when the car is oversteering.
Decrease it if you experience clipping.
Recommended setting: between 100 - 150%

Understeer:
Controls how light the wheel will get when understeering.
Decrease if you loose force too quickly when entering a corner.
Increase if you can´t feel the grip loss when entering a corner.
Recommended setting: between 50 - 100%


Vertical Load:
Controls how strong vertical forces on the tyres are reflected in the FFB.
Mostly used to feel bumps on the road.
Increase to feel more details of the driving surface.
Decrease if bumps are too strong.
Recommended setting: between 100 - 200%

Lateral Force:
Controls how strong lateral forces on the tyres are reflected in the FFB.
Increase to make the wheel stiffer.
Decrease if the FFB looses too much detail (clipping).
Recommended setting: Between 25 - 75 %

Steering Rack:
Choose how much of the lateral forces are calculated using the steering rack of the car instead of the tyres.
Recommended setting: Personal preference





Engine Vibrations:
Intensity of vibrations generated by the engine of the car
Decrease if there is too much noise in the FFB
Increase to get more feedback from the engine.

Kerb Vibrations:
Adjust the amount of vibrations resulting from rumble strips (2D kerbs)
This setting does not affect forces coming from 3D kerbs (use vertical load & smoothing to adjust that).

Shift Effect:
Adjusts how strong the kick from shifting is.

FFB Meter
In the secondary controller settings you will find an option to bind a key for the FFB Meter.
Once enabled, the yellow line marks your minimum force setting, and the red line shows the maximum force.
The green graph displays the steering forces sent to your wheel.

If the graph exceeds the red line you are experiencing "Clipping"
Clipping means, that your wheel has reached the maximum output force and you won't feel any difference above that limit.

Minimum Force
The minimum Force Setting can be found in the FFB Settings Menu, and will allow you to amplify all the small FFB forces that your wheel might not be able to put out. That means small bumps and steering forces will be increased to a point where you can actually feel them through your wheel and thereby adding more details to your FFB.
This will also help eliminate the "dead center feeling" occurring with some of the wheels.

Slip Effect
This Effect simulates the shuttering of your tires as they struggle for grip,
which occurs for example during wheelspin, understeering, sliding and even on heavy braking.
Depending on the amount of grip as well as the rotation speed of your tires you will feel a vibration indicating that your tires are slipping.
The higher the rotation speed of your tires, the higher the frequency of the vibrations is.
The more grip your tires loose, the higher the amplitude of the vibration will be.


Stationary Friction
This will deal with the problem of wheels rotating by themselves if the car is stationary, for example in garage or on the starting grid.
This won't be an option you will find in the menu, and it only takes effect, if the car moves slower then a couple of meter per second.

FFB Multiplier
Since the FFB in R3E is based on the car physics (Tire load & grip + suspension geometry), different cars result in different FFB strength.
So in the past you might have found your perfect FFB settings for one car, only to find out they don't work as well with another car.
To avoid this, you are now able to adjust the cars individual FFB strength by changing the FFB Multiplier.
You will find this new Setting in the Car Setup>Steering Settings.
Increase the FFB Multiplier if a particular car feels too weak.
Decrease it, if the FFB of the car is causing heavy clipping.

Recommended Settings
1. Start by choosing the new default profile for your wheel in the Controller Profiles Menu. It contains presets for all the new settings.

2. To adjust the FFB strength individually per car, change the FFB Multiplier in the Car Setup>Steering Settings Menu

3. Depending on the Wheel you own, choose how much Clipping you want to allow.

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  • If you for example own a Logitech G27, you should aim for Mild Clipping values, in order not to loose too much of the overall FFB Strength.
  • If you own a high end, direct driven wheel you can easily set it up for Zero Clipping, for the maximum amount of detail.

 

[Brandon Wright]

Probably because of that steering force intensity at 100, like Natedogg suggested. But as long as you found something you're happy with that's all that matters.

 

[natedogg1867]

Those FFB settings arent all that different from my own, although Im only on a G27.

I dont think you mentioned what your FFB Gain is in game, so perhaps that is cranked up too high. Personally, I only use ~65% gain with the rest of my settings so I dont clip. Perhaps if you are using 100% gain, that is just too much.

Min force likely isnt needed at all on your Fanatec either, unless you prefer the feeling. That's really only useful for wheels that have a deadzone, since that will help minimize that phenomenon. On wheels that dont inherently have a deadzone though, adding min force may work against you. My understanding of how it works is that it simply shifts up the forces you feel. Basically, if the range of feeling was 0-100%, adding 10% min force would be like feeling 10-110%. So on high loads, you are going to be getting more force than if you didnt use min force at all.

Since FFB is so subjective, it can definitely be tough to find settings you are happy with. Other than the above, steering force intensity may still be too high. The cars that have been released or updated since the summer of 2015 do better FFB-wise when you use a lower steering force intensity. I really wouldnt go over 80% here. Then you could go a bit higher on the lat/vert forces, but if you have tried that already, then Im not sure I can offer any more suggestions. Unless you want to try my specific settings in game, although Im not sure how they would translate to a Fanatec wheel.

 

[MPortnoy]

the wheel really loads up through corners
I run
steering force intensity 100%
min force - 10%
understeer 50%
vertical - 60%
lateral - 60%
steering rack - 100%

Reducing the lateral force will reduce the load through corners. The devs suggest something between 25% and 75%. I personally keep it at 25%.

Min force likely isnt needed at all on your Fanatec either, unless you prefer the feeling. That's really only useful for wheels that have a deadzone, since that will help minimize that phenomenon. On wheels that dont inherently have a deadzone though, adding min force may work against you.

Just for the sake of argument, I don't think that statement is correct as the minimum force isn't just to eliminate deadzone. If you read again the first post (which i included below) you'll see that minimum force also allows to amplify small forces and add more detail to the FFB. Potentially a higher % is needed in a Logitech than a Fanatec but this is a setting that also exists in RF2 and for me it does wonders in both games to feel the tires at slow speeds.

Minimum Force
The minimum Force Setting can be found in the FFB Settings Menu, and will allow you to amplify all the small FFB forces that your wheel might not be able to put out. That means small bumps and steering forces will be increased to a point where you can actually feel them through your wheel and thereby adding more details to your FFB.
This will also help eliminate the "dead center feeling" occurring with some of the wheels.

Furthermost in terms of FFB Intensity, the devs recommend minimum 100% as this controls the overall force feedback and having it as low as 65% is potentially numbing down the overall potential of your wheel in terms of forces it can produce. In order to prevent clipping I'd look again at the other settings they recommend having below 100% and decrease those instead than the overall intensity.
FFB intensity is also a setting in PCars 2 and you'll find they also recommend it at 100% for the same reason I stated above.

These are just my 2 cents since as you stated, FFB is something of personal choice and everyone is free to use what feels good for them, but having a closer look to the devs recommendations transformed my wheel (Logitech G920 btw).

 

[Case_]

Regarding the minimum force, I think you`re basically both correct and pretty much saying the same thing. The minimum force *is* intended to eliminate the deadzone, it is expected to only be useful for wheels with a deadzone and if you raise it on a wheel that doesn`t have a deadzone, it might indeed work against you.

But the way it eliminates the deadzone is by amplifying the low forces, because that`s really the only way how it can achieve that. So technically, if you like the result, you certainly can use it simply as a boost of the low forces.

The two are not mutually exclusive

 

[natedogg1867]

Furthermost in terms of FFB Intensity, the devs recommend minimum 100% as this controls the overall force feedback and having it as low as 65% is potentially numbing down the overall potential of your wheel in terms of forces it can produce.

I would strongly recommend against using 100% gain in any game, regardless of other settings. I guess unless you turn other settings down far below where they should be I think it is quite a misnomer though, that people believe that you need to have gain at 100% to feel all the forces that the game wants to supply to you. And if you use less gain, you are somehow preventing the game from sending you all the forces somehow. Im not sure where this notion started, but having gain at 100% (in any game) usually results in instant clipping and loss of all detail.

The biggest culprit of this, and oddly enough, is Stefano from Kunos fame. A few years back he used to stream videos on youtube and would show his FFB settings. He uses 100% gain with basically everything else at 0 as I recall. Well, he had instant clipping the moment he moved his wheel from center. It was atrocious, yet he liked it.

In order to prevent clipping I'd look again at the other settings they recommend having below 100% and decrease those instead than the overall intensity.
FFB intensity is also a setting in PCars 2 and you'll find they also recommend it at 100% for the same reason I stated above.

Im not sure what FFB Intensity is in Pcars, but it may be different than steering force intensity that we have in RR. Beyond that, settings arent exactly 1:1 equivalencies between games, as the physics engines differ so greatly, and how the FFB is coded. Steering force in RR used to be recommended as optimal somewhere between 100-150%, but this is no longer the case. Physics changes a few summers back rather heavily altered how the FFB feels. And in doing so, the strength.

But the way it eliminates the deadzone is by amplifying the low forces, because that`s really the only way how it can achieve that. So technically, if you like the result, you certainly can use it simply as a boost of the low forces.

I believe this is what Automobilista calls that setting

 

[MPortnoy]

Im not sure what FFB Intensity is in Pcars, but it may be different than steering force intensity that we have in RR. Beyond that, settings arent exactly 1:1 equivalencies between games, as the physics engines differ so greatly, and how the FFB is coded. Steering force in RR used to be recommended as optimal somewhere between 100-150%, but this is no longer the case. Physics changes a few summers back rather heavily altered how the FFB feels. And in doing so, the strength.

Just to clear the point, I wasn't referring to Steering force intensity but the Force feedback intensity (what you called Gain). Which funny enough is called Gain in PCars 2.

 

[Brandon Wright]

@dave kirk I didn't catch the minimum force setting, that's way too high for a CSW. They really don't need any minimum force, anything over 1-2% can make it feel a bit odd. I'd strongly recommend turning that way down.

 

[RacingManiacGT1]

So something(a youtube video) brought this to my attention and I am just curious. It mentioned that games can do FFB based on forces calculated at the tire and also by forces at the rack. I've always left forces at the rack at 0% because to my mind the real forces that the driver received at the wheel is the result of the tire forces at the contact patch, the rack itself(aside from power steering and drag in the system) should not have been the "source' of the force(real world cars' Electric Power Steering is another topic altogether). But apparently other games does this as well(namely rFactor2, apparently) In the explanations of this thread it listed Steering rack as by personal preferences. Whats the typical way of doing this? I don't recall my detailed settings but with the rest of the settings(with the rack at 0%) I feel like I am getting pretty detailed FFB with good amount of signal from the tires as to when they are saturated and where the limits are. Any particular benefit to add more Steering Rack percentage?

 

[MeNoMoney]

Wow. Glad I found this thread. Just setup (with help) my Large mige setup and in R3E the ffb, kerb rumble and kerb pull into the walls is terrible.
0-30mph gives me huge ffb and kerb rumble.
Above 30mph the ffb seems 0% and very light floating steering feeling and hard to keep the car running in a straightline. Then there is the problem of when going over kerbs, the car gets pulled into the wall and only way to get off the wall is to slow to a near stop, only then does the steering start to respond again.

Hopefully all this GREAT information will give me the ingame ffb and kerb rumble I am missing.

AMS and RF2 FFB is working ok with just other minor issues.

 

[MeNoMoney]

Well.
Another day and a few more R3E ingame direct drive wheel setups and still cant get it do ffb or kerb rumble above 30mph.
So far 2 kind people have gonw out of there way to try help. They both have the same Larhe mige setups as mine and there settings just dont work for me yet work perfect for them. Were totally confused as to why my R3E just does not work with my servo kit as theres does.

 

[Fernando Deutsch]

So something(a youtube video) brought this to my attention and I am just curious. It mentioned that games can do FFB based on forces calculated at the tire and also by forces at the rack. I've always left forces at the rack at 0% because to my mind the real forces that the driver received at the wheel is the result of the tire forces at the contact patch, the rack itself(aside from power steering and drag in the system) should not have been the "source' of the force(real world cars' Electric Power Steering is another topic altogether). But apparently other games does this as well(namely rFactor2, apparently) In the explanations of this thread it listed Steering rack as by personal preferences. Whats the typical way of doing this? I don't recall my detailed settings but with the rest of the settings(with the rack at 0%) I feel like I am getting pretty detailed FFB with good amount of signal from the tires as to when they are saturated and where the limits are. Any particular benefit to add more Steering Rack percentage?

These exactly my thoughs. Not sure how much rack percentage to use and I do not understand the difference between the force from the tires and from the rack, as the rack forces should be dependent from the force generated from the tires.

 

[Noel Spence]

Wow. Glad I found this thread. Just setup (with help) my Large mige setup and in R3E the ffb, kerb rumble and kerb pull into the walls is terrible.
0-30mph gives me huge ffb and kerb rumble.
Above 30mph the ffb seems 0% and very light floating steering feeling and hard to keep the car running in a straightline. Then there is the problem of when going over kerbs, the car gets pulled into the wall and only way to get off the wall is to slow to a near stop, only then does the steering start to respond again.

Hopefully all this GREAT information will give me the ingame ffb and kerb rumble I am missing.

AMS and RF2 FFB is working ok with just other minor issues.

i have the same wheel as you ,and the same thing was happening to me , but now it is very nice after watching this

 

[MeNoMoney]

i have the same wheel as you ,and the same thing was happening to me , but now it is very nice after watching this

Thankyou Noel.

I foundout that the new simucube fw and program Im running does not work right on R3E as of yet. Next FW should have affects wprking again.

 

[Noel Spence]

Thankyou Noel.

I foundout that the new simucube fw and program Im running does not work right on R3E as of yet. Next FW should have affects wprking again.

ah ,good luck with it

 

[MeNoMoney]

ah ,good luck with it

New Simucube FW appeared lastnight. Tested it. FFB working as should now. Shame just hurt right arm when first hit kerb snd the wheel violently whipped to the left. Pop went something in my rightarm (old injury) again.

 

[Noel Spence]

New Simucube FW appeared lastnight. Tested it. FFB working as should now. Shame just hurt right arm when first hit kerb snd the wheel violently whipped to the left. Pop went something in my rightarm (old injury) again.

that is no good ,it should be not that strong ,try and edit the controller file as shown in the video ,also back up that file if you do not like it

 

[MeNoMoney]

that is no good ,it should be not that strong ,try and edit the controller file as shown in the video ,also back up that file if you do not like it

Thanks Noel,
Seems was a setting in the controller file (kerb or rumblestrip pull I think it was called)
Oh, and possibly the fact that I had ffb in simucube set to high and left the ingame FFB on 100% aswell and didnt think to lower it because I was just Sooo happy to have ffb, well that was until I touched the kerb/rumblestrip (lol)
Oh. Bloody went and joined Iracing, YET again typical me jumping in with both feckin feet first. Got a right shock when thought I go and buy the 2 nice new shiny 911's only to findout there like €15 each including vat. Or might of been $. I'm old so I forget stuff EASY, to easy.
Anyway,
I appear to have paid £90(That was 50% off aswell) just so I can read the IRacing forum for the next 2 feckin years (lol)
AND
, I think? That it might only be SQ/manual gearbox driving aswell, so as of now I cant even race or drive in it (lol)

Anway,
Here I am again, going off on a tangent (sp)
Soooo,
Back to this "R3E" FFB Thread....

 

[MeNoMoney]

Well. New 0.9.4 Simucube with latest 1.7.0 Granity is now out.

Shame still not fixed my issues. Bad sand effect/sound like servo straining too much and gear slip/cogs slip effects when turning and now even when driving straight and turning the wheel. Oh and the oscillations getting worse. Guess just need keep going and hope I find a fix for all of the above. Have tried LOTS of ingame and Simucube settings but still the same just bloody hope its not an issue with my new Mige kit.

 

[Terry Rock]

While it may seem like a plausible argument as to why RRRE chose to implement all of those settings...I just want a car I can drive out of the pit stall with minimal tweaking.
I don't want to spend hours messing around just trying to get the car to feel like a car.
That's me doing the job they got paid for.

Mod Edit: Don't swear on the forums, which includes subbing letters with * to get around the filter.

 

[smasha]

ignore