Any tips to drive Ferrari 458 Italia fast ??

Try search AC forum for this car driving tips but no result to be found .. currently doing this car vs Imola and i found this car act very weird to my taste, wondering if the car really act like that irl & if so i dont think i will buy it assume if i have the money of course :D Not even sure if its actually oversteer or understeer after few hours driving it.

By the way where is that FFB gain slider in the setup menu ?? I found the wheel become so much heavy compare to BMW M3 GT2.
 
Toe out on the rear in a RWD car is dumb, lol... I use 0 on my real life Miata, most RWD usually have a bit of toe in.
But thats not the case for many of those alien or even WR setups that i found here ..
By the way it's already v1.4.2 now; I hope i manage to complete RSR All Round with good result before the game change too much.
Still stuck with this 458 vs Imola though atm .. 2.5s to go :whistling:
 
Camber angle does not decrease longitudinal performance significantly, not in AC and not "IRL".
maxresdefault.jpg

This thing stops quite well even with quite a ridiculous stance. Always aim for big negative camber.

Regarding rear toe-in and toe-out:
Default setup:
Dflt stp R8LMS.PNG
Tweaked setup:
PB sstp R8LMS.PNG

Both with Audi R8 LMS.

RWD cars should have a little static rear toe-out and front toe-in, since the wheels will want to toe-in under power and toe-out under braking. Toe is not a constant, it is dynamic, in AC and "IRL".
 
RWD cars should have a little static rear toe-out and front toe-in, since the wheels will want to toe-in under power and toe-out under braking. Toe is not a constant, it is dynamic, in AC and "IRL".
A little static rear toe out ?? Lets say its true but how little is little ??

By the way here another articles about toe out:

Toe Out
Toe-out is when the leading part of the tire is turned outwards away from the center of the car. This makes the tires want to separate from each other. This improves “turn-in” response considerably but again, at the cost of tire wear. Running toe-out in the rear is generally not recommended since it will make the car want to pivot (oversteer) at all steering angles, but in the right setup it can help (auto-x / technical tracks).

Special Note – Due to the small amount of angle ran you have to take into account the dynamics of your particular car. For instance, under acceleration and steady state driving a RWD car will be pushing the front along, this means that when the bushings deflect in the control arms that the tire will want to toe-out. A small amount of toe-in in the front will allow the tire to zero out. For a FWD car, the front wheels are pulling and the opposite occurs. The bushings are compressed in the opposite direction and the tires will tend to toe-in, so a small amount of toe-out is necessary to zero the angle. In an AWD car this gets complicated since the front is pulling and the rear is pushing. Generally speaking a much milder toe deflection should be realized in this situation, requiring virtually no change.

Article Link
 
A little static rear toe out ?? Lets say its true but how little is little ??

Little depends on you, really :) The effects described in your link are correct. Try and find what you like. I´m just saying rear toe out is not wrong. I myself aim for 0 toe under power, or about 0.15 degrees static toe-out.

Special Note – Due to the small amount of angle ran you have to take into account the dynamics of your particular car. For instance, under acceleration and steady state driving a RWD car will be pushing the front along, this means that when the bushings deflect in the control arms that the tire will want to toe-out. A small amount of toe-in in the front will allow the tire to zero out. For a FWD car, the front wheels are pulling and the opposite occurs. The bushings are compressed in the opposite direction and the tires will tend to toe-in, so a small amount of toe-out is necessary to zero the angle. In an AWD car this gets complicated since the front is pulling and the rear is pushing. Generally speaking a much milder toe deflection should be realized in this situation, requiring virtually no change.

Article Link

It should state there that also the powered wheels change toe, and even more than the unpowered pair, and more still under braking.
 
Actually i believe that articles is saying it affect the front tire not rear tire. "under acceleration and steady state driving a RWD car will be pushing the front along, this means that when the bushings deflect in the control arms that the tire will want to toe-out. A small amount of toe-in in the front will allow the tire to zero out" Of course i might be wrong due to my limited edition english standard.

Anyway at least 458 italia has static rear toe no matter under power / braking / steady state.
The "Suspension" app show it never change no matter what the car is doing. Only front toe change, by alot.
 
The "Suspension" app show it never change no matter what the car is doing. Only front toe change, by alot.
For the 458 specifically, it has almost a positive value of toe at the front (-0.05º) on its default setup, first of all you have to increase that negative value to get rid of the oversteer. The rear toe was too much positive, making the car lose a little bit on power. Personally I aim for the point where the wheels never go below 0º on toe angle, meaning no toe out on the rear. In GT cars specially sometimes I have to put a value below zero when the car is static to achieve it.
Also, the front wheels should change because they need to steer your car after all.
Regarding rear toe-in and toe-out:
Default setup:

Tweaked setup:
What track was it Sak? Just out of curiosity.
 
Sometime aliens can make "mistakes" in their shared setups?
Err sometime i even thinking if they purposely change their setup to bullshit me :D:D:D (over -2.5 toe out for rear wheel?? WTF?? Thats consider extreme & not recommended IRL) :confused::confused::confused:

Anyway i just found something really unrealistic with this 458 italia in Imola:
RbOqVHs.jpg


All tires (25psi) still cold like hell after five lap of pushing ?? No wonder i 2.5s slower than WR :cry::cry::cry:
 
V5 tyre model is broken.
Yeah no doubt you're right cause no matter 18psi or 38psi the temp just stay the same regardless how many laps i do. I do feel much more grip using low pressure but result in much slower lap time. AC go arcade style now or something like that ?? :D:D:D

Confirm i wasted 4 days doing this combo, just found out those guys who make it into 1:52s is actually playing v1.3.4.

Stupid me :cry::cry::cry:

I done BMW M3 GT2@Imola so which other RSR All Round combo is using tyre model 6 ??

Thanks :)

(Decided to do Ferrari 599XX EVO @ Monza; Tyre model 6) :thumbsup:
 
Yeah no doubt you're right cause no matter 18psi or 38psi the temp just stay the same regardless how many laps i do. I do feel much more grip using low pressure but result in much slower lap time. AC go arcade style now or something like that ?? :D:D:D
No, but are unfinished tyres (unfinished as post 1.3 update that introduced new things for the model). You'll find cars with more tyres like that.
 
No, but are unfinished tyres (unfinished as post 1.3 update that introduced new things for the model). You'll find cars with more tyres like that.
Its ok i decide to leave this combo aside till it update to model 6 .. quite waste time trying to catch another 2.5s with this v5 broken model.

Just start doing Ferrari 599 @ Monza and what happen to Monza ?? Its so bright .. too bright :confused:
 
1.3.4 was on V5 tires for the Ferrari as well ;)
I found these in 1.3.5:
- Works on the tyre heating model continues with new surface rolling heat generation on some cars
- Performance optimization on car multithread physics

Should have already change something comapre to 1.3.4 i suppose.

I like to see if those guys do that time again with this 1.4.2 version to be really convince that the time is still achievable otherwise i still wont touch anything with model 5 again.
 
The difference now is that camber was fixed (as of 1.4.1)
Its ok i dont know how to deal with broken tyre model with weird tyre temperature like that, thats explain i cant feel any different from lap 1 to 10, just a waste of time. Will only do this combo again if this car ever updateit's tyre model.
Doing Ferrari 599@Monza now. Funny why some Ferrari already model 6 but some not yet.
 
1.4.3
- Fixed locked brakes during pitstops
- Weather colors now use colorCurves.ini HDR_OFF_MULT when PP effects are off to avoid super bright fog/clouds
- Fixed shadowmaps in showroom
- Fixed Lamborghini Gallardo S3 automatic gearbox and clutch
- Revisited p4-5/2011
- Fixed blurred rear rims on Lotus 72D
- Tiny improvent on materials of BMW M3 GT2, BMW Z4 GT3, Ferrari 458 GT2, Ferrari 599XXEVO, Alfa Romeo Mito QV, Alfa Romeo 155 DTM, Corvette C7R, McLaren 650 GT3
- acServerManager : added model shortcut panel
- ksEditor : improved node grid tool
- ksEditor : fixed control focus while moving camera

No tyre model fixed ?? Not important ??
 

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