1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Anti-Roll bar settings

Discussion in 'F1 2011 - The Game' started by dazzadp, Oct 19, 2011.

  1. Can anyone help me with setting Anti-Roll Bar settings.

    What are the pro's of having a stiffer Front?

    What are the con's of having a stiffer Front?

    What are the pro's of having a stiffer Rear?

    What are the con's of having a stiffer Rear?

    Or if there is a link to the pro's and con's of all the set-up options would be great.

    Also what's the best starting point to start the set-up:

    Put both to 11 and reduce? or
    Put both to 1 and increase? or
    Start on 6 (default) and tweak from there?


  2. Anti-roll bars, like springs, are torsion bars on today’s F1 machines. Here is how they work: theanti-roll bar ties the left and right side springs and dampers together laterally. Remember the picture of thefront springs and dampers where I pointed out how they traveled parallel to each other? Each end of theanti-roll bar attaches via a connecting rod to the same rocker arm as the damper and springs; one end to theleft side, the other to the right. When the car hits a dip in the road, both wheels reaction is roughly thesame (travelling up… then returning down), so the bar merely “rolls” equally in the same direction withlittle to no effect. However in a turn, the weight transfer is from inside to outside. The inside wheelstravels down (losing sprung weight) as the inside springs releases energy under weight transfer and theoutside wheels travels up (remember the car weight is rolling inside to outside) as the outside springsabsorbs more energy. This causes the anti-roll bar to twist its ends in opposite directions. This in turnlimits the chassis roll and suspension travel due to the anti-roll bar limiting the amount of opposingspring/damper energy loading/unloading, thus transferring some grip back towards the inside of the turn​
    and the inside wheels. In general front anti-roll bars, as well as springs, are stiffer than those in the rear of the car are. This facilitates better front-end turn-in response and rear-end traction under corner turn-in and exit acceleration.

    Anti-roll bar (Primary usage) ​

    Limit chassis roll under steady state corner loading.

    Anti-roll bar (front): ​

    Use as stiff a roll bar as possible for good corner turn-in stability.

    Anti-roll bar (rear): Use as soft a roll bar as possible for better traction under acceleration on exit.

    “To start with, the first thing a beginner should do, as far as setting up his car is concerned, iscomplete as many possible laps without worrying about other drivers. He must try to learn allabout the car, systematically changing key components to see how they affect it: try a differentanti-roll bar, softer then harder springs, adjust aerodynamic downforce, that sort of thing. Even in the junior formulae, driving skill alone is not enough, so you must know how to get the mostout of your chassis. At that skill level, you can probably gain a second per lap through skillfuldriving, but lose three times as much by setting up the car incorrectly.”​

    Alain Prost from his book “Competition Driving
  3. ummm i just made testss with this antiroll, 2 laps antiroll at 1 and 1 and 2 laps with 11 and 11, the differences between all laps where almost none, between -0.100 and +0.100, so i dunno if it actually does anything, i always leave them at 6 and 6
  4. Were you using assists? What were your spring stiffness settings? Which car did you use?

    ARB has a lot of impact on car behaviour if set up properly...
  5. traction control was set to medium
  6. I think I asked more then 1 question. :D

    You should always test setups without any driving aids, TC and ABS can mask major faults in your setup. ;)
  7. This is where i'm stuck because I only have X-box controller and with that its near impossible to race with TC off due to acceleration sensitivity. I thought I could compromise with TC set to Medium but fear that still masks set up faults.
  8. yes i only have tc on medium rest is off and yes i have controller also
  9. I use controller an dont use any assists. Its not hard to learn, jus takes practice.
  10. David O'Reilly

    David O'Reilly
    A bad quali means I can go forwards in the race.

    Guys, setup testing is def compromised with assists on.
    The above tech explanation does very well. I would poss add a dummies perspective like this.

    You need to consider springs and ARBs together a a little bit as they work together. EG running really soft springs and really stiff roll bars shouldn't work that well.
    In the real world when things are stiff the response is faster but maximum steady state grip is less and tyre wear is greater.
    In-game there is only a representation of physics and its not perfect. EG the 11/11 bug makes it grippier.

    The pit menu explanation in-game is actuially pretty good too. It talks the talk correctly however the game does not in all senses walk the walk.

    Different guys go fast with very different settings. One key in my view is to work out whether you prefer oversteer or understeer.
    For example I prefer understeer. I set the front ARB significantly softer than rear and the front wing less than rear. Springs I will leave out at as game physics don't replicate real physics enough for it to make sense but my max is 9.
    The understeering car will have a feel that its rotating axis is somewhere near your seat. An oversteering car will have a feel that its rotating axis is somewhere near your feet. Personally I like understeer as I don't want the front end making promises the rear end can't keep. Once turned in I can nail it and have good exit speed. With an oversteering car one needs to feather throttle or correct oversteer during exit more often.
    In real life you would soften rear springs for more accelleration but in-game it doesn't work.

    Once you find a spring and ARB setting that works well for you it will often transfer to different tracks pretty well so can be your "default setting" to start with.
    I would ignore any setups offered that feature 11/11 in springs or ARBs because who knows if anything else in that particular setup is helping get silly grip and laps.

    I've rambled a bit.

    There is an awesome guide called
    "Racer Alex's advanced Formula 1 setup guide" just google it.
    however remember that not all things real will work in this game.
    • Like Like x 1
  11. Alberto Casado

    Alberto Casado
    Premium Member

    This is my main problem when making a setup for myself, though I know how things work both in theory and in a real car, how they work in the game has nothing to do with that.
  12. Most people don't know but in the game the ARBs are also bugged, try putting 1(softer) in front and 11(harder) in the rear, the car get's a crazy good grip, now try to do this in a real car or in a game that have real(or nearly real) physics.

    In this game you sometimes have to forget what you know about setups and what each thing does to the car because it simply doesn't apply there.
  13. Well that at least makes sense in the context of the game. going by what it says at the bottom of the ARB settings, 1 front 11 rear should give you the most cornering grip with the least amount of car response. It should also give you more understeer.
  14. I've seen a lot of people going 1/11 on the ARBs and then counter the responsiveness with loads of camber and toe. Eats tyres, I know, but seems to work fairly good..
  15. David O'Reilly

    David O'Reilly
    A bad quali means I can go forwards in the race.

    The way I am setting up is to never go above 9 on ARB or Springs.
    I know its a subtle and theoretical differentiation but once you are using 11 its not really a setup but an exploit if I can draw that distinction.
    I want to at least in my head think I am doing a good setup.
    As soon as I see 11 anywhere I look somewhere else.
  16. Really? Well I learned from Shift 2 that a stiffer front roll/sway bar would make the car understeer, a softer would oversteer, and vice versa for the rear. This is why I get confused when commentators say teams soften the rear suspension to get the back end to rotate around corners.

    EDIT: Ok nevermind, I was right, I just got really confused when I read the description of the roll bars in this game, because I assumed better turn in meant oversteer.

    Anyway, OP, you want to know the pros and cons of the setting of each anti roll bar?
    - Softer front: Oversteer
    - Stiffer front: Understeer
    - Softer rear: Understeer
    - Stiffer rear: Oversteer
  17. The description is corret, but the thing You almost never want a too extreme of a gap between the front and rear arbs stiffness, It would make the car very unstable.

    the same with the springs, some pilots prefer a softer front, others a softer rear, but You'll almost never see a car with the the softer front possible while you have the harderst rear spings, the car would be incredibly difficult to drive.

    You can have a softer or harder springs/arbs in general with the front or the rear a little softer/harder to it's counterpart, but never the two extremes together.
  18. That's assuming the game physics work correctly at all. which we know the springs settings absolutely do not work correctly.

    But I don't know either way, I either set equal roll bars or very close to equal roll bars in my set ups.
  19. I got a question. Is it better to have both stiff front springs and roll bars, with soft rear springs and roll bars, or is it better to mix them?
  20. So far I've used hard rear ARB in all setups and changed front ARB in hope that ingame tooltip is correct, i.e. softer front ARB for increased traction on some tracks (like Turkey) and stiffer front ARB for increased turning response on track with many slow corners.