Wheel rotation...

[Abdul Al-Amry]

Been struggling to get consistant lap times in iRacing until I changed the wheel rotation to 900 degrees. Lo and Behold, times started to tumble and consistancy has improved by 100%. Getting to start falling in luv with this game

 

[Jamie Wilson]

The physical lockstopping mechanism is set with the Logitech driver at whatever point you define in the panel; iRacing has no control over that and nor does it have it's own FFB generated 'soft lockstops' as applying a very large force through fully loaded FFB motors, as you're likely to do if you're needing to panic-correct to that amount - is generally a bad idea as far as the hardware is concerned. Thus, the wheel freely turns after the car's max rotation point.

An argument could be made for setting your device lock to match the cars for the benefit of the hardware lockstops, but frankly I'd prefer to keep it at a fixed value as that way you're set up for everything. Frankly, if you're running out of lock trying to catch a slide then you're way past being able to save it most of the time.

One thing to note though is that the wheel may still appear to be slightly misaligned at 900 degrees in the handful of cars that in-sim have 1080 degrees of lock; but the compensation algo is such that you'll only notice it at extreme lock values.

 

[Pistonbroke]

Yes, the disadvantage is having to change it for every car. But that's just a few minutes to change the logitech panel, unplug and let the wheel reinitialise, and reconfigure in the panel. Actually, I think the iracing panel is remembering the settings. But I have to check it since it's now become a precondition for me.

Still when compared to changing cars in RL! ...

I don't know...you sim boys want it all on a plate.

 

[Abdul Al-Amry]

On anothe related topic, whats ur FFB settings guys?

I find it hard to control the car on extreme settings but also find it hard to control the car on soft settings. My margin so far is 8 on the Spec and 10 Barber. I am not even gonna start on the C6R as that beast is a nightmare to tame even on the softest or the hardest FFB setting.

 

[Steve Emmons]

People seem to be all over the map on this one, but generally towards the low side. I started at 40 and over the months have gradually kept reducing it. Now at 14-16 depending on the car & track. Seems about right for me as I like some resistance...

Edit: My favorite was around 24, but I tend to have tendonitis problems in my left elbow so I turned it down.

 

[Mark A Warmington]

100% profiler... 94 in game...

 

[Sander Hogendoorn]

100% profiler... 94 in game...

94, wow :eek:

If I do that to my Fanatec wheel (also 100% in the software) I'm sure my desk and wheel will break :tongue:

I've set it to around 10, depending on car.

 

[Mark A Warmington]

the Vette has power-steering, so I reckon that is why I don't have muscles like the hulk. In the LM I found it harder going around Lime Rock, but hey - maybe I'll dial it down if I start running a car with no power-steering .

 

[jnl.42]

I have 150% in profiler and usually 8-12 in game, I seem to get a bit more feel when I have logitech turned right up, then just tune it in game to get the right strength.

 

[Jamie Wilson]

FFB is translated to your device by a ConstantForce parameter within DirectX.

ConstantForce has a range of -10000 to 10000, hence those are the values for which your wheel will provide the maximum possible torque it can provide. The FF in game should be set so that you only hit ±10000 in the most extreme circumstances (crashes etc), because otherwise all you're doing is clipping the force - at 94 you're definitely just getting ±10000 the whole time, there's no variation, it's just a rotation resistance.

iRacing's FFB slider I've always thought to be a mistake, it should top out at about ±15. The clipping point varies per car; the Solstice has power steering for example and a value of 9-13 should give the most detailed feel. On the other end of the scale, the Indycar clips very early on the range at 2. Most cars start to clip in the 5-9 range, so you're better off keeping your values in that sort of ballpark.

You may argue that it feels weak in that situation, but if you scale it correctly, you should still get pretty meaty FF when you're loading the car up. When it's just clipping you lose that sense of weight transfer and it will be harming your driving.

Much in the same way as switching from 240 to 900 degrees feels strange and difficult to get used to at first, so will this, but equally, it will pay off in the end.

 

[James Yates]

Basically to sum up what Jamie said. Put your profiler on 101% and go between 4 and 12 FFB ingame. Anything higher than 12 in any car other than the Solstice will clip like crazy. The best way to set it is turn it down low enough before you cant really feel the car. That's somewhere around 3-4 in the IndyCar and is around 8-9 in the Solstice.

 

[Mark A Warmington]

I'll try, but I have kind of got used to the wheel just giving me a sense of resistance, rather than weight shifting around in the car. I don't really rely on it to tell me when weight is shifting around but I'll try it on 8-12 and see if it starts to kill me .

 

[James Yates]

I'll try, but I have kind of got used to the wheel just giving me a sense of resistance, rather than weight shifting around in the car. I don't really rely on it to tell me when weight is shifting around but I'll try it on 8-12 and see if it starts to kill me .

If you want the wheel to have a ton of resistance then your basically on the wrong game. The whole idea is to set it up so you feel what you would feel from the real car, not for it to be exactly the same resistance of your wheel at its max force all the time.

The highest I usually go is 7. I'm running 9 in the Solstice but that's because the steering is so light.

 

[Mark A Warmington]

Guess it is a case of different strokes for different folks . I tried 8 or something like that and it felt like driving the Soltice . I don't think I will drop it from 94 at this point (not at the beginning of a season: I can't afford to introduce another huge learning curve).

Perhaps I will try it again at the end of season 3. For now, the settings I have work really well for me: there is enough of a sensation coming through the wheel when I cross cambers, gradients, hit curbs, get tank slappers, etc. for me to have a good feel for the car. It has served me really well in 2010 and has helped me improve my performance tremendously.

Different strokes .

But thanks - as I haven't a clue about all the techy stuff .

Decided I may as well use the transmission adjustment season as the same season to get used to different FFB settings. Gonna take your advice (since you know what you're talking about) and stick it on 15 (feels much closer to what I am used to and might be an easier adjust than anything lower).

 

[Abdul Al-Amry]

The only way I could have competitive laptimes in the Skip barber at VIR was to reduce the FFB in-game to 6. I can catch the slides more accurately now and be smooth and fast around turns. This will be my first season in iRacing and I am trying to get accustomed to the car n track before the races start.

Test sessions penalties dont count so I get to push the car to its limit

BTW: anyway of changing the fuel from Gallons to Litres? I dont want to lose the mph reading to kph.

 

[Dario Jagar]

options/other/units --> metric

"I dont want to lose the mph reading to kph." - I think it is all or nothing

 

[Abdul Al-Amry]

options/other/units --> metric

"I dont want to lose the mph reading to kph." - I think it is all or nothing

Bummmmer. Thanks Dario

 

[Kevin Ascher]

Why don't you just switch it to metric before you fill in the fuel and put it back on 'English' afterwards?

EDIT: Checking in the race won't help much either because your race anyway will be ****ed if you have to make a pit stop

 

[Phill Routledge]

I to have struggled to get comfy with iRacing and my wheel... (G27) I went to 900 but found I had to turn the wheel to far to get lock to lock...

I dont like to turn the wheel much past 8 and 4 on the clock face for lock to lock implementation.... iRacing has made the sesnitivity difficult meaning the steering wheel turn speed in game was to fast and therefore jerky.

How to use this degrees (8 and 4 on the clock) with nice steady linearity of wheel speed feel?

 

[Sander Hogendoorn]

I'm not sure, but it is designed for optimal use with 900 degrees, so you get the correct steering ratio for every car you drive automatically. You can try to set your wheel to a lower rotation in the drivers and do the calibration in iRacing. It should be possible to make it feel better with a lower rotation, but not as good as with 900 is my experience.

 

[Simon Trendell]

If your turning past that in anything other than the Jetta & Solstice at tight hairpins the your using too much rotation and scrubbing the tyres