Thrustmaster TS-PC Issues

[Warren Dawes]

I'm hoping someone can help me.
I recently purchased a Thrustmaster TS-PC to replace my trusty G27. Unfortunately, it's turning into a frustrating experience.
When I first installed it, all went well and it was detected and calibrated as expected. I tested a few buttons and FFB's and all looked good. I then tried to use it in AC but while assigning the axes and buttons, it suddenly started calibrating again. I hopped out of AC, and disconnected and reconnected the wheel to my PC. After about 5 mins, it switched off, switched on again and calibrated again, without me touching it. After checking all connections, it just kept disconnecting and reconnecting.
So, I installed it to my other PC. Same problem, continually disconnecting all on it's own.

After contacting the distributor, we arranged for the unit to be returned. The distributor raised an RMA with Thrustmaster, who requested that the distributor test the unit. After testing, the distributor claimed it was working ok, and sent it back to me.

I've now received it back, and now things have gotten worse. I can't get any life out of it at all.
The wheel isn't detected after installing the driver. It is not detected in the Control Panel or the Firmware Updater. I've tried installing it to three different PC's (Win 7, Win 8.2, Win 10) but still it shows no sign of life. The power light never lights up at any time.
I've tried numerous actions, different power points, different USB slots, I've tried with newer and older driver software. Tried an alternate USB cable. Tried disconnecting / re-connecting the wheel to the base unit. Even tried the Thrustmaster FAQ option to wake up the wheel / update the firmware by holding the buttons 11 and 12 while connecting the USB.
Nothing I do gets it to show any signs of life.

My dilemma: The Distributor says he tested it as ok, for me it seems dead.

Has anyone here had similar experiences and can suggest what I might be doing wrong?

 

[aKy0001]

Can recommend the 599XX EVO Alcantara wheel. Driving this combination too, feels great and i love the 30cm diameter. For me, the 32cm rims (488 Wheel, Sparco) are too big. The 30cm wheel just fits perfectly, especially for gt cars

 

[thepharcyde]

Can recommend the 599XX EVO Alcantara wheel. Driving this combination too, feels great and i love the 30cm diameter. For me, the 32cm rims (488 Wheel, Sparco) are too big. The 30cm wheel just fits perfectly, especially for gt cars

Bar the Porsche GT3, in general the GT3 cars all seem to use a formula type rim that I personally prefer as it's easier lock to lock to get through tight corners.
I find the stock formula rim also translates the FFB better given its lighter?
I also have the 599rim and can attest it's a good wheel

 

[aKy0001]

In the end it comes down to personal preference I think. In iRacing I'm also switching between my rims, depending on the GT3 im driving (using the formula rim for the 488 and the 599XX for AMG and Audi in iRacing).
I'm not quite sure about the weight, don't think its so much different. I think the effect of better ffb is mainly because the formula rim is 28cm in diameter.

 

[Warren Dawes]

Time to update (and get us back to the main topic ).

Finally received my Fanatec CSW v2.5 / BMW Wheel yesterday. Very impressive kit.
First up, it actually works, what a relief after the long saga of TS-PC wheels . Only tried it in RRE so far, and will probably spend some time fine tuning things, but hugely impressed with the smoothness, quietness, and the ability to adjust so many settings directly from the wheel.

After more than 3 months since the initial TM order, I'd just about lost the urge to Sim Race but this wheel should get the spark going again.

It certainly seems to be high quality, so hopefully the reliability should be there. I hope so, it has ended up costing me much more than planned originally, but as has been pointed out to me, you get what you pay for.

Cheers, Warren

 

[nolive721]

Apologies Warren since I have participated to drag your thread OT I reckon...

I just wanted to balance your bad experience with a more positive opinion of this wheel for people who are in the market to decide which way to go in that price range of 400-500USD.

Enjoy your FANATEC one, I have heard its the best thing short of DD wheels

 

[Stan Marlow]

Sorry to hijack this thread but my TS-PC Racer died after 2 year and 4 months of good service. I do not know if it is the power supply or the base. The red light on the front is off. Is there anyway to check if it is the PSU?

 

[Miguel Batista]

Sorry to hijack this thread but my TS-PC Racer died after 2 year and 4 months of good service. I do not know if it is the power supply or the base. The red light on the front is off. Is there anyway to check if it is the PSU?

If you own a multimeter, yes.

 

[Stan Marlow]

Fixed the PSU for 25 eur and have my TS-PC Racer back working.

 

[HugoGarciaHidalgo]

Thanks guys for the supportive words!
I really wanted to give the ts-pc a chance. Ordered a replacement, which like I said is worse..
Apart from the noise it creates it really makes me feel uncomfortable to hear the coils and capacitors sounding like they would explode and fry me at some point
Also both of the Ferrari rims make cracking sounds randomly while driving normally. The button box is a hard-plastic box that just cracks when sliiiiightly looked at from a wrong angle
Problem here: I feel the cracks in my hands! I could live with the sound...
I think the formula rim is better in this regard by the looks of it.

If I could tell Amazon to send me one from a completely different batch.. I might do it. Really don't want to spend more than for the ts-pc but I won't pay the same for the csl elite base with that awful optical sensor!
So talked myself into the v2.5 bundle...

Considering though that I planned to buy the csl elite pedals at some point since I think I won't have problems with the pots (my room is very clean, almost no dust). The bundle price about 699€ drops to 610 (89€ for the pedals separately bought). That's only 60€ more for a smoother base.

Anyway, I can "talk it pretty" for me but in the end that's fecking expensive and I really do hope that it delivers. Otherwise I'll go insane, lol

hi, I have the same problem with the crackle with the ferrari rim, did you solve it? if you did... how? thanks!

 

[RasmusP]

hi, I have the same problem with the crackle with the ferrari rim, did you solve it? if you did... how? thanks!

I fixed it by buying a fanatec csw 2.5

Sadly there is no fix. The plastic of the rim simply cracks a little here and there. It's not breaking anything, just a bad design...
I loved that rim but that cracking.. Urghs!

I guess you could open the rim and fill it with some polymer or seal the currently "cracking" parts with some elastic glue.
The easiest solution would probably be to sell the rim and buy another thrustmaster rim.

Sadly the ts-pc Ferrari rim has the best buttons/rotaries and looks imo...

 

[Daga]

Hi all, sorry to light up this topic again but I received my TS-XW racer today (its basically the same as the TS PC).
I plugged both the power supply and the usb cable but NOTHING happens, its just plain dead.
I have a question for the owners to try and understand which component is fautly:
-If I plug the wheel just to the PC via the usb cable, should a sign of life still be visible? (like a light of something)
I have an old TMX and even if i dont plug the power into the wheelbase but just the usb, at least some lights are up and running (of course no ffb).
Thanks in advance.

 

[Fat-Alfie]

TS-PC owner here. If I connect the wheel to the PC via USB with no power I get no lights, no sign of life.

Good luck with it

 

[Daga]

TS-PC owner here. If I connect the wheel to the PC via USB with no power I get no lights, no sign of life.

Good luck with it

Thanks for the prompt reply! alright so It can be either the power supply or the usb cable.
If you instead plug everything BUT the usb cable to the pc is there any sign of life in some part? like a light somewhere, or a sign something is working...Thanks again.

 

[BrightCandle]

Thanks for the prompt reply! alright so It can be either the power supply or the usb cable.
If you instead plug everything BUT the usb cable to the pc is there any sign of life in some part? like a light somewhere, or a sign something is working...Thanks again.

If I just plug it into the power and not USB no signs of life. It doesn't calibrate or do anything, no lights. Looks identical to if I have the UBS in and no power, both are required to bring the wheel to life.

 

[Daga]

If I just plug it into the power and not USB no signs of life. It doesn't calibrate or do anything, no lights. Looks identical to if I have the UBS in and no power, both are required to bring the wheel to life.

Thanks a lot. So I'd be better send it back to Amazon then. Its so strange that a brand new, sealed wheelbase doesn't show signs of life straight away.

 

[Audii-Dudii]

Thanks a lot. So I'd be better send it back to Amazon then. Its so strange that a brand new, sealed wheelbase doesn't show signs of life straight away.

As another data point, when I decided to have a race before bed last night, my TS-PC racer was likewise stone, cold dead.

I broke out my multimeter and confirmed the PS was still working and when I would plug it into the base, the light on the front panel would briefly flicker green and the wheel would make a lazy effort to rotate, so I assumed the USB connection was good, too.

Except it wasn't, as I learned when I plugged a USB fan into a USB port on my computer and it didn't work. My computer was otherwise working fine, just not the USB ports, and rebooting it fixed this.

I don't know what happened, but this is the first time I've ever experienced this, so if you haven't been able to confirm your USB ports are working properly, you might want to confirm they are before you send your wheel back to Amazon.

 

[Daga]

As another data point, when I decided to have a race before bed last night, my TS-PC racer was likewise stone, cold dead.

I broke out my multimeter and confirmed the PS was still working and when I would plug it into the base, the light on the front panel would briefly flicker green and the wheel would make a lazy effort to rotate, so I assumed the USB connection was good, too.

Except it wasn't, as I learned when I plugged a USB fan into a USB port on my computer and it didn't work. My computer was otherwise working fine, just not the USB ports, and rebooting it fixed this.

I don't know what happened, but this is the first time I've ever experienced this, so if you haven't been able to confirm your USB ports are working properly, you might want to confirm they are before you send your wheel back to Amazon.

Thanks again, I'll try out a different computer then, I tried all the ports in my pc along with a couple of power socket plug in the wall. Thank god Amazon is very flexible and user friendly with that, expecially on faulty units like mine (apparently). I will even try a different usb B cable.

 

[Daga]

As another data point, when I decided to have a race before bed last night, my TS-PC racer was likewise stone, cold dead.

I broke out my multimeter and confirmed the PS was still working and when I would plug it into the base, the light on the front panel would briefly flicker green and the wheel would make a lazy effort to rotate, so I assumed the USB connection was good, too.

Except it wasn't, as I learned when I plugged a USB fan into a USB port on my computer and it didn't work. My computer was otherwise working fine, just not the USB ports, and rebooting it fixed this.

I don't know what happened, but this is the first time I've ever experienced this, so if you haven't been able to confirm your USB ports are working properly, you might want to confirm they are before you send your wheel back to Amazon.

just one more question, with your power supply NOT plugged, if you plug the usb into the computer does windows play the ''new device plugged'' sound?

 

[Fat-Alfie]

Nope.

 

[Daga]

Nope.

View attachment 450843

Ouch. I guess I'll never know why it did't work. Luckily I did't sell my tx458..