Setting up with Logitech wheel

[mutantaxe]

Pretty happy with the universal settings for the wheel . In Grid 2 the wheel does a good control job in an arcade game. In Race 07 even with the easiest of cars they tend to move a bit to much when in a straight line and sometimes turning the car is a chore. There are a lot of in-game settings that I am unsure of like :
Speed Sensitive Steering 0 - 100 Steering/throttle/brake sensitively 0-100.??? what do these do and what should you set them on ? The wheel just seems a bit loose in a straight line and cars dont turn in quick enough .
Wheel is G27 and I dont use clutch, just the paddles.

I am not that fast, like the Formula Masters at Monza ... best is 1m55.1 but average in the 1m 56 on clean laps.

btw: 1st post

 

[Tom]

Bram Hengeveld can surely help you, he's in love with his Logitech wheel and does know a thing or two about Race07 as well.

Tom

 

[Kennett Ylitalo]

You need to set the wheel from two places. First adjust your windows controller settings, this are the global values. Go to control panel, search for "game controllers", you should see similar page as this:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y252/Abraxis007/PC Games/7-27-2011-53150PM.jpg

Good values are:
Overall FFB: 101
Springs, dampers: 1
Enable centering spring, value 0, allow game to adjust settings = on
Adjust your degrees of rotation to fit your wheel.
Note! these settings will affect all games but personally using those settings i have never needed to go there again.

Then you go to the game and set the FFB.
- strength 75 and up, wouldn't recommend 100
- level "medium", it gives you full FFB effects without any of the artificial ones (throttle vibrations etc)
- Steering force is the force acting on your steering column, it's what you would feel in a real car, FFB is everything else like loosing grip. Personally i use it somewhere close to 90.
- all the vibration values are not functioning at medium FFB level so no need to touch them. Curb pull is personal, i use quite low settings.

Don't use any of the speed sensitive steering, you need a pure, linear steering. Throttle and brake sensitivity on the other hand are really important, most drivers use pretty low sens values, all the way from 1 to 30 is common to see. Then when all is set you adjust the steering lock in the car setup.

 

[Ariciuc Razvan]

Hi Mutantaxe.

I have a G27 wheel too, and I recommend you leave the sensitivity alone at 50% (which means that the peddals and wheel movement(in the game) is an exact copy of what the wheel /peddals do in real life).

Grid 2 is more of an arcade game where as race07 is sim, so don't try to compare them because they'll be very different whatever wheel you have.

For the feeling you get in the corner and in the straight line there are two things you can do:
1) Fiddle a bit with the force feedback settings (but not to much, the default is pretty good)
2) Car setup is much more important to the feeling (IMO). Try to see how it feels with a mini cooper or a WTCC car (low power and stable car), if you're happy there then your problems are most likely down to setup (especially with the high-power cars), if not try some different force feedback settings.

Just my toughs, hope it helps.

 

[Kennett Ylitalo]

There's one more setting to adjust.. It's buried in the controller file and you need to edit with notepad (notepad++ is the best). There are settings for FFB linearity so you can get tighter or looser wheel on straights but if you make it stiffer in the straights, it's harder in the corners.. Try those values i gave you in windows controller settings, they are really accepted as good default settings for all logitech wheels.

Also using 50 in brake sensitivity is not advised, there are very few fast drivers who can drive fast with high sensitivity, lower ones are million times more realistic.

High sensitivity, more lockups happening at the half way, pedal movement is just unnatural.
Low sensitivity and you have to press the pedal more and get lock ups at the very end, downside to lo sensitivity is that brakes come on slowly, first few centimeters will do almost nothing and you need to press the pedal faster. I use sensitivity of 5 so i really have stomp on the brakes but i'll rarely have lockups.. But just the fact that springs become increasingly stiffer at the end of the movement range makes bottom of your foot feel the pressure better and you'll get increased accuracy. If you need to implement 10% brake force, use high sensitivity but if you use 90% you'll need to lower it.. And in racing you tend to use quite sharp and high forces...

Same goes for throttle but you don't need to be so radical with it. There are people who use 50 but most have it lowered (me: 20-30 depending on car class). The goal is the same, to prevent spins at the corner exits. This will "pack" the most HP at the very end of your pedal range but once again, you are using the 80-100% of power a lot more than 0-20%. It's also a question of attrition as "soft" throttle is a pain to drive for long.

Digital and analog sensitivity should not work but keep them 50 just to be sure. We don't want anything affect the linearity of steering.

 

[mutantaxe]

a quick thanks .. will try all these

 

[mutantaxe]

do you mean 0% for speed sensitive steering ?

ok .. have gone with 0% and the car is slightly wobbly down the straights but steers better through the corners


previously Im 55.8 was the best but managed 1m 53.6 in 4 laps of thrying but mostly in the 54's which is a big improvement

now if the wheel just didnt feel so loose in a straight line......

 

[Tim Ling]

You could try adding a bit more positive caster http://www.anewtoronto.com/wheel alignment.html) to your setup. This will help keep the car from wandering, but too much will make the steering very heavy

 

[Dennis Phelan]

Wobbling on the straights could also be dampers or springs.

 

[mutantaxe]

i just increased the dead zone slightly and the ffb and its basically good enough

now its all about understanding car mods and thats another thread

 

[Kennett Ylitalo]

If your wheel doesn't have a huge gap in the middle, don't EVER use dead zone!! You need the most precision at the center. Wobbling on the straights happens with some cars. Mostly because they are tuned to make corners, stability in straights is irrelevant.

Personally, i don't care what the wheel indicates at straights, i just keep it steady and use cognitive skills to judge what to do. (think first, don't react). Don't start to make corrections, you get a pendulum effect and that can make you crash in a straight line, one of the most embarrassing mistakes to make in public Just keep it straight, make small and slow corrections, it WILL go where you want it to..

When the car is bouncing on small bumbs in great speeds, even a small bumb gets transferred to your steering column. If you ain't holding it still, this will introduce steering, you react and the car goes the other way, mass transfer happens with a delay, the car kneels and grip bites that correction you made and makes it larger, you correct again, this thing repeats and make the whole thing go wibblywobbly..

Mass transfer always happens after the steering input, it's a fact. In the corners you're compressing one side of springs, basically the only mass transfer happens on one side that automatically straightens the car, it's natural "loaded" process. In the straights you mass transfer happens on both side of central axis and there the springs work like a pendulum, one side drops, it bounces back all the way to the other side, springs compress again and push back. This all happens in a certain frequency, depending on suspension geometry, spring rates, dampers, mass.... The bad thing about this is that when you correct and get the pendulum effect, you are actually in tune with this frequency and each correction just amplifies the error.

Since you're problem went away with dead zone, i'm guessing that this was the error all along: you react to mass transfer/suspension movement in straights. Ignore what the car tells you and trust your eyes.