RasmusP's LUTs for G27/29 and DFGT

Misc RasmusP's LUTs for G27/29 and DFGT 2.0

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This LUT really improved my lap time in AC and ACC but can you tell me how you made the NoClipButStronger LUT using WheelCheck so i can tweak it for myself?
I made the LUTs without Wheelcheck!
The principle of Wheelcheck only works for the minimum force, but not for the rest. The issue is that a constant force against your standing still hands is not the same as "throwing" the wheel and seeing how far it rotated.
The rotation resistance of the Wheelbase isn't always linear, so you're adjusting the ffb to have a linear "throw" without constant ffb or your hands.

The big issue of the Logitech wheels is the big deadzone.
The minimum force settings in almost every game/sim are a hard edge for the beginning of the ffb.

My LUTs are simply a smooth curve at the beginning of the ffb. Manually shaped and tested in about 200 tries until I was happy with the result.
After about 20% ffb, my LUTs don't do anything.
I put the 100 value pairs into excel and let excel display the graph as visualisation.
I then typed in all the values until the curve looked like I thought it would drive nicely.
Then exported it, tested it, adjusted it again.

I handcrafted about the first 20 values and then simply selected the last handcrafted value and the "100" and let Excel fill in the other 80 values to make it a straight line.


So if you want to tweak it: open the LUT file with Excel (or Google sheets), maybe use the "text to columns" or whatever it's called in your language to get it into the 2 columns, 100 lines format with decimal numbers between 0.00 and 1.00, then draw the graph and adjust it how you think it would feel better for you.

I can help you here and there, you just need to figure out how the ffb should change for your liking.
 
still helpful in 2023 thanks a lot! Got one question though, FFB becomes "jittery" and rattling while understeering. Any ways to smoothen it?
 
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still helpful in 2023 thanks a lot! Got one question though, FFB becomes "jittery" and rattling while understeering. Any ways to smoothen it?
Glad it's still good :)
The rattling can come from multiple things. I'd try to put the "Slip" effect slider to 0% first.
It vibrates when your tires are slipping/sliding, which understeer is for the front wheels.
If that doesn't help, it might be simply the car geometry that makes the tires "skipping". I had this in real life with my old Mercedes C-Class.
Do you have the issue with all cars?

You can also use the "filter" slider in the ffb settings. It's a smoothing filter that takes multiple ffb samples and calculates the average, making harsh peaks smoother.
Set it to the maximum to instantly feel what it's doing. 5-10% will probably be enough.
 
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Glad it's still good :)
The rattling can come from multiple things. I'd try to put the "Slip" effect slider to 0% first.
It vibrates when your tires are slipping/sliding, which understeer is for the front wheels.
If that doesn't help, it might be simply the car geometry that makes the tires "skipping". I had this in real life with my old Mercedes C-Class.
Do you have the issue with all cars?

You can also use the "filter" slider in the ffb settings. It's a smoothing filter that takes multiple ffb samples and calculates the average, making harsh peaks smoother.
Set it to the maximum to instantly feel what it's doing. 5-10% will probably be enough.
I will need slip ffb for traction, I mainly drive GT3 and F1 cars. Gonna try adjusting the filter to see if it helps. Thanks.
 
I made the LUTs without Wheelcheck!
The principle of Wheelcheck only works for the minimum force, but not for the rest. The issue is that a constant force against your standing still hands is not the same as "throwing" the wheel and seeing how far it rotated.
The rotation resistance of the Wheelbase isn't always linear, so you're adjusting the ffb to have a linear "throw" without constant ffb or your hands.

The big issue of the Logitech wheels is the big deadzone.
The minimum force settings in almost every game/sim are a hard edge for the beginning of the ffb.

My LUTs are simply a smooth curve at the beginning of the ffb. Manually shaped and tested in about 200 tries until I was happy with the result.
After about 20% ffb, my LUTs don't do anything.
I put the 100 value pairs into excel and let excel display the graph as visualisation.
I then typed in all the values until the curve looked like I thought it would drive nicely.
Then exported it, tested it, adjusted it again.

I handcrafted about the first 20 values and then simply selected the last handcrafted value and the "100" and let Excel fill in the other 80 values to make it a straight line.


So if you want to tweak it: open the LUT file with Excel (or Google sheets), maybe use the "text to columns" or whatever it's called in your language to get it into the 2 columns, 100 lines format with decimal numbers between 0.00 and 1.00, then draw the graph and adjust it how you think it would feel better for you.

I can help you here and there, you just need to figure out how the ffb should change for your liking.
Oh i thought you used the wheelcheck for all of it. I read some of your previous replies and learned that you used a curve to get rid of the deadzone and to slowly transition to a linear ffb but I don't quite understand how a 50% in game ffb (which is actually 75% when i looked at the lut) files feels better than a 100% in game ffb with the same curve or maybe 80 to 90%ffb to deal with the clipping.

Sorry if this question is a little bothersome but it just seems really interesting for me
 
Oh i thought you used the wheelcheck for all of it. I read some of your previous replies and learned that you used a curve to get rid of the deadzone and to slowly transition to a linear ffb but I don't quite understand how a 50% in game ffb (which is actually 75% when i looked at the lut) files feels better than a 100% in game ffb with the same curve or maybe 80 to 90%ffb to deal with the clipping.

Sorry if this question is a little bothersome but it just seems really interesting for me
Hehe yeah I'm not sure about that either (anymore).
My thoughts were:
The clipping meter sits behind the ffb gain. And the LUT processing comes after the clipping meter.
It felt like if you'd even put 200% of ffb gain, that it was still weaker than if you put the Logitech ffb to the maximum.
So I thought that the Logitech driver software would allow for more ffb input than the AC clipping meter would allow as output.

The idea was that the clipping meter always cuts of at "100%".
But even with 50% gain, you can still reach these 100% if you crash or hit a really bad sausage kerb.
Ingame ffb gain is not taking 0-100% and tune it down. The ingame ffb gain is scaling down everything, but the limit is still at 100% output.

So while my LUT (150% basically) seemingly results in the same ffb as 75% ingame gain, it's truly scaling 50% ffb output to 75%, but it's scaling the limit, the 100% ffb output to 150%!
So my idea was to not get clipping from AC, while boosting ffb output like 90% (compression at Eau Rouge) way above 100%.

However, I don't think so anymore!
AFAIK, the wheel driver software, for all wheels, simply has a range of 0 to 1.
It doesn't matter if the AC clipping meter cuts off the ffb at 100% or if the LUT scales it to 150%.
The wheel driver also cuts off anything above 1 (100%).



The issue then was that my "recommended" LUT felt just too good to invest more and more time. I had already spent over two months tinkering with this at that point.
Way too many people liked that LUT so I just left it like that.

Another reason was the popularity of the app "ffb clip" and also more and more stronger wheels being sold.
For stronger wheels, the recommendation is to stay below 65% of gain to not have any clipping apart from when hitting sausage kerbs or crash.
And ffb clip at default settings also tries to minimize clipping.
So with 100% ffb gain, ffb clip was constantly adjusting the ffb to lower levels, which isn't great with weak wheels like a Logitech.
And also many people read in guides to not go too far above 50% gain for "the best ffb".

So basically it's a trick. I'm not convinced anymore that you can really get stronger ffb.


Which is why I created this thread:

I didn't link it in my LUT download page to not confuse people. I also sadly didn't get enough testers to be sure enough of it and update my LUT pack + manual.

But I would appreciate your feedback about it!
I simply scaled down the "recommended" LUT.
The good news is: I just got another G27 to test this myself. A friend bought a used G27 and I asked him if I could have it for a week to test exactly this :D

I'm not sure about this beta LUT though.. I need to look into it again.
Won't get to it until next week, so feel free to test the linked LUT with 100% ffb gain and tell me if it feels identical or not :p
 
Hehe yeah I'm not sure about that either (anymore).
My thoughts were:
The clipping meter sits behind the ffb gain. And the LUT processing comes after the clipping meter.
It felt like if you'd even put 200% of ffb gain, that it was still weaker than if you put the Logitech ffb to the maximum.
So I thought that the Logitech driver software would allow for more ffb input than the AC clipping meter would allow as output.

The idea was that the clipping meter always cuts of at "100%".
But even with 50% gain, you can still reach these 100% if you crash or hit a really bad sausage kerb.
Ingame ffb gain is not taking 0-100% and tune it down. The ingame ffb gain is scaling down everything, but the limit is still at 100% output.

So while my LUT (150% basically) seemingly results in the same ffb as 75% ingame gain, it's truly scaling 50% ffb output to 75%, but it's scaling the limit, the 100% ffb output to 150%!
So my idea was to not get clipping from AC, while boosting ffb output like 90% (compression at Eau Rouge) way above 100%.

However, I don't think so anymore!
AFAIK, the wheel driver software, for all wheels, simply has a range of 0 to 1.
It doesn't matter if the AC clipping meter cuts off the ffb at 100% or if the LUT scales it to 150%.
The wheel driver also cuts off anything above 1 (100%).



The issue then was that my "recommended" LUT felt just too good to invest more and more time. I had already spent over two months tinkering with this at that point.
Way too many people liked that LUT so I just left it like that.

Another reason was the popularity of the app "ffb clip" and also more and more stronger wheels being sold.
For stronger wheels, the recommendation is to stay below 65% of gain to not have any clipping apart from when hitting sausage kerbs or crash.
And ffb clip at default settings also tries to minimize clipping.
So with 100% ffb gain, ffb clip was constantly adjusting the ffb to lower levels, which isn't great with weak wheels like a Logitech.
And also many people read in guides to not go too far above 50% gain for "the best ffb".

So basically it's a trick. I'm not convinced anymore that you can really get stronger ffb.


Which is why I created this thread:

I didn't link it in my LUT download page to not confuse people. I also sadly didn't get enough testers to be sure enough of it and update my LUT pack + manual.

But I would appreciate your feedback about it!
I simply scaled down the "recommended" LUT.
The good news is: I just got another G27 to test this myself. A friend bought a used G27 and I asked him if I could have it for a week to test exactly this :D

I'm not sure about this beta LUT though.. I need to look into it again.
Won't get to it until next week, so feel free to test the linked LUT with 100% ffb gain and tell me if it feels identical or not :p
So i tested out this beta LUT and i must say that its definitle good that i can finally go above 50% in game ffb and even go 100% with more clipping though. I tested this for about 2 hours going back and forth between the two. Heres my what i found out.

(Test was in Spa)

Both 50% in game ffb:
Beta LUT seems to have less resistance than the recommended LUT and feel barely no details

50% ingame recommended LUT vs 75% ingame Beta LUT:
Definitely a lot better than before but I still feel more resistance and road detail in the recommended

50% ingame recommended LUT vs 80% ingame Beta LUT:
Starting to feel similarities between the two. but recommended still feels better for me

50% ingame recommended LUT vs 85-90% ingame Beta LUT:
This is where i found it harder to notice the difference between the two to the point i keep going back to the config file if i really did change the LUT but i did notice more clipping to the point I had to stare where the clipping was(mostly bumps and high speed corners with kurb exits).


50% ingame recommended LUT vs 100% ingame Beta LUT:
Beta LUT feels WAYYY better but sadly too much clipping to the point i keep spinning on corner exit.

so my conclusion is that the Beta LUT "can" be better for me but it still needs more work since i like the resistance from the recommended LUT since i like feeling the weight of the car and to feel road details and grip. would definitely keep testing this Beta LUT if i can change my mind on it since I know people like a lighter wheel but thats just me i guess.
 
Very interesting post, thanks for that!
50% ingame recommended LUT vs 100% ingame Beta LUT:
Beta LUT feels WAYYY better but sadly too much clipping to the point i keep spinning on corner exit.

so my conclusion is that the Beta LUT "can" be better for me but it still needs more work since i like the resistance from the recommended LUT since i like feeling the weight of the car and to feel road details and grip. would definitely keep testing this Beta LUT if i can change my mind on it since I know people like a lighter wheel but thats just me i guess.
Welllll, in theory, they should be exactly the same. At least they they are mathematically.
The clipping meter can be ignored, since in theory, it's irrelevant when comparing these two LUTs.
The final output of the game to the wheel driver is mathematically identical, but the clipping meter sits before the LUT so you just don't see the clipping with the "new" LUT.

However I'm not sure about the effects: Road, Kerbs, Slip, ABS. They scale with the ffb gain but I'm not sure if the LUT scales them too.
So maybe they need to be a bit lower with the new LUT.
 
I
Very interesting post, thanks for that!

Welllll, in theory, they should be exactly the same. At least they they are mathematically.
The clipping meter can be ignored, since in theory, it's irrelevant when comparing these two LUTs.
The final output of the game to the wheel driver is mathematically identical, but the clipping meter sits before the LUT so you just don't see the clipping with the "new" LUT.

However I'm not sure about the effects: Road, Kerbs, Slip, ABS. They scale with the ffb gain but I'm not sure if the LUT scales them too.
So maybe they need to be a bit lower with the new LUT.
Interesting

Sorry i couldn't reply been quite busy and ive been testing out these two LUTs the past few weeks. I notice that you said you wont see the clipping with the new LUT but i feel the clipping on high speed corners as I don't feel the details anymore and I notice that the new lut has this lighter feeling on the wheel compared to the old LUT where i can feel the weight of the car. Im not saying that the new LUT is bad its definitely better using the wheel with, 100 times better! But the old one has this nice feeling of making it seem like im using a wheel with more than 2nm of force. But definitely like the new one for making it able to adjust the ingame ffb to my liking in which the old one fails at.

One question. Is it possible to turn down the wheel rotation below 900 degrees while using this LUTs?
 
Sorry i couldn't reply been quite busy and ive been testing out these two LUTs the past few weeks. I notice that you said you wont see the clipping with the new LUT but i feel the clipping on high speed corners as I don't feel the details anymore and I notice that the new lut has this lighter feeling on the wheel compared to the old LUT where i can feel the weight of the car. Im not saying that the new LUT is bad its definitely better using the wheel with, 100 times better! But the old one has this nice feeling of making it seem like im using a wheel with more than 2nm of force. But definitely like the new one for making it able to adjust the ingame ffb to my liking in which the old one fails at.
Nice that you're coming back to this topic! Don't worry about time passing between replies :)

I've found some super critical typo in my previous post:
The final output of the game to the wheel driver is mathematically identical, but the clipping meter sits before the LUT so you just don't see the clipping with the "new" LUT.
This should've been "with the "recommended" LUT". The "recommended" LUT only uses 50% ffb gain, then goes through the clipping meter, which obviously won't show clipping with only 50% gain, and THEN the LUT boosts the FFB.
The "new" LUT on the other hand uses 100% ffb gain, so the clipping meter DOES show clipping.

However I've found that I did a mistake with the calculation of the "new" LUT. They are NOT identical!
When comparing the final ffb output to the Wheel Driver, we can't just multiply some values. We have to consider that with the 50% ffb gain, the clipping meter allows the game ffb to still go up to 100% before the clipping meter limits, which means 200% AC physics engine output * 50% gain = 100% into the clipping meter.

However if we take it as a given fact, that the Logitech Driver will still not allow anything higher than 100%, we have to look at the final values AFTER the LUT and consider that everything beyond 100% will get limited/clipped.

Important reminder just to be sure:
the LUTs look like this:
0.00|0.10
0.01|0.12
0.02|0.16
0.03|0.19
0.04|0.22

Left value is the "LUT Input", right value is the "LUT Output". It's NOT a multiplier, it's the final output to the Logitech driver.
And 0.04 means 4% (since the percent sign stands for "dividing with two zeros")

The "recommended" LUT goes up to 1.5, but the Logitech driver will clip off anything higher than 1.0, so all values between 1.0 and 1.5 could simply be "1.0". That's where my mistake happened...



Difficult with words, but here are examples:

"new" LUT, Gain at 100%:
AC physics engine = 8% -> LUT at 0.08 = 0.2
final output to Logitech = 20%

"recommended" LUT:
AC physics engine = 8% -> GAIN at 50% -> 4% -> LUT at 0.04 = 0.22
final output to Logitech = 22%

That's within the "anti-deadzone" part of the LUT and it's almost identical. However you can already see a small mistake... The "new" LUT has the 22% output for 10% AC physics output, not at 8% AC physics output like the "recommended" LUT.


Looking at 55% AC ffb output:

"new" LUT, Gain at 100%:
AC = 54% -> LUT at 0.54 = 0.6
final output to Logitech = 60%

"recommended" LUT:
AC = 54% -> GAIN at 50% -> 27% -> LUT at 0.27 = 0.55
final output to Logitech = 55%

Now you can see a real mistake. 5% isn't some "rounding error" anymore. First the "recommended" LUT was stronger, now weaker. So I definitely did a mistake in my thoughts.

To figure it out, we have to look at higher ffb levels!

At 110% AC ffb level, the comparison looks like this:

"new" LUT, Gain at 100%:
AC = 110% -> Clipped at 100% -> LUT at 1.00 = 1.00
final output to Logitech = 100% ; CLIPPING!

"recommended" LUT:
AC = 110% -> GAIN at 50% -> 55% -> LUT at 0.55 = 0.92
final output to Logitech = 92% ; NO CLIPPING!

But now it gets even weirder.
As we can see, the "new" LUT is now clipping and has reached 100% output to Logitech.
However the "recommended" LUT is not clipping. But it's close.

Let's find the point, where the "recommended" LUT will get clipped, although hidden to our eyes.
It's when the LUT reaches 1.00 as the output value.
The corresponding ffb level is 0.62, so 62% ffb from AC before the clipping meter.

Since the "recommended" LUT has 50% gain, we have to double that value for our comparison. So we have to use 124% ffb level:

"new" LUT, Gain at 100%:
AC = 124% -> Clipped at 100% -> LUT at 1.00 = 1.00
final output to Logitech = 100% ; CLIPPING!

"recommended" LUT:
AC = 124% -> GAIN at 50% -> 62% -> LUT at 0.62 = 1.01
final output to Logitech = 101%, CLIPPED at 100% ; CLIPPING!


When writing all this down and compare, I now know what to do for the real "new" LUT:

50% gain + recommended LUT:
30% AC output -> 50% GAIN -> 15% real AC output -> LUT at 0.15 = 0.4
final output to Logitech = 40%

100% gain + real "new" LUT:
30% AC output -> 100% GAIN -> 30% real AC output -> LUT at 0.30 = must be 0.4!!
final output to Logitech = 40% !!

So it looks quite easy, just put "recommended LUT value * 0.5" into excel for the real "new" LUT. And sadly, I did just that.. Plus some manual adjustments...
However that's extremely WRONG since the LUT is NOT a factor of multiplication like the GAIN. It's a Look Up Table, so left value is the input, right value is the corresponding output, not a multiplier.

Example lines of the "recommend LUT" (think of the 50% gain!)
0.05 | 0.24 (LUT Input = 0.05 <- 50% GAIN <- AC ffb level = 10%)
0.10 | 0.33 (LUT Input = 0.10 <- 50% GAIN <- AC ffb level = 20%)
0.20 | 0.46 (LUT Input = 0.20 <- 50% GAIN <- AC ffb level = 40%)

So "real new LUT" should be:
0.05 | ?? (LUT Input = 0.05 <- 100% GAIN <- AC ffb level = 5%)
0.10 | 0.24 (LUT Input = 0.10 <- 100% GAIN <- AC ffb level = 10%)
0.20 | 0.33 (LUT Input = 0.20 <- 100% GAIN <- AC ffb level = 20%)

Important here:
50% * 0.33 = 0.165 and NOT 0.24!!


What I should've done is taking "the output value of where the input of the "recommended" LUT is half of the input of the "new" LUT". And yes, that's a bit more complex than using a multiplier in Excel...

Here's what the "recommended" LUT REALLY looks like.
Vertical Y-Axis = Output to Logitech (Right value of the LUT)
Horizontal X-Axis = AC Output into the LUT (Left value of the LUT)
1702180226369.png

When creating a LUT that works with 100% gain, we have to double the values of the X-Axis, since the values in this graph are with 50% gain and the AC physics output are therefore 2x as high.
Looks like this:
1702180486204.png

And now we're running into a very ugly issue:
The AC clipping meter will cut off anything after 1.00 on the X-Axis.

The important thing here:
If we note down the facts at this point, we know that the "Recommended" LUT has the "Clipping Point" of 100% final output to Logitech at 124% AC physics output.
The critical issue here is that with 100% gain, it's simply not possible to do the same, since the "Clipping Point" is at 100% AC physics output.

Note: the physics output has no limit! It's just internal numbers that go into the gain multiplier. A massive crash could spike to 2000% physics output.
But to keep that crash spike below the clipping meter, you'd need:
100% / 2000% = 0.05% ffb gain. So such spikes will always be clipped off by the clipping meter.

Conclusion:
Apparently, I actually created something really cool with the "recommended" LUT, since I moved the clipping point to 124% physics output.
It's impossible to do the same with 100% gain.
Here's the "Recommended" LUT with 50% gain BUT with the X-Axis being the AC physics output instead of "physics output * gain" and ending with "100% final ffb output to Logitech" on the Y-Axis:
1702181553220.png

Now creating something similar but with 100% gain, but still with:
X-Axis = AC physics output and Y-Axis = final ffb to Logitech to show them in the same graph:
1702182194825.png
Now this "New 100% LUT" simply has the identical values until they split apart for the OUTPUT, but the INPUT for the LUT has a step size of 0.2, instead of 0.1.
That's the 50% to 100% transformation.

And a final alternative with the gain being "calculated so the ffb reaches 100% at 124% physics out":
100/124 = 0.806
So at 80% gain, we're hitting the AC clipping meter at 125% physics output. Close enough!

Now we "just" need to transform the LUT INPUT STEPS to match with 80% gain instead of 50% gain.

Calculation:
"Recommended" LUT is currently getting clipped by the Logitech driver Input at 124% AC physics output. With 50% gain, that's at a LUT Input of 0.62.
Instead of changing the output values of the LUT, we're adjusting the input values to get the identical graph with 80% gain.
Meaning a step size of 0.016.

Which btw is finally the REAL AND CORRECT calculation to do this!

50% gain = step size of 0.01 => 1% steps for the left values
100% gain = step size of 0.02 => 2% steps for the left values
80% gain = step size of 80/(50*100) = 1.6% steps for the left values

Doing a check for the 100% gain, just to be sure:
100% gain = step size of 100/(50*100) = 0.02

Looks like this in a graph:
1702184643456.png

To make the 100% gain and 80% gain LUTs smoother (since losing resolution due to the rougher step size), I asked ChatGPT to fill in the gaps, since it would need some complex interpolation.

Fun fact: ChatGPT simply codes a little Python program that uses Pandas Dataframes, which comes with interpolation and smoothing functions.
I just learnt how to use Python and Pandas Dataframes last month.
I had no idea about smoothing and interpolation though...


Anyway, here are, FINALLY, the "real" new LUTs for 50% and 80%!

One question. Is it possible to turn down the wheel rotation below 900 degrees while using this LUTs?
Not really. You can, but lowering the degrees is "compressing" the ffb, resulting in higher ffb levels. You can see this in the clipping meter. When using 540° instead of 900°, you'll see a lot more clipping.
The issue here is that the LUT only has a small range where it's the smoothest around the center. Lowering the rotation degrees will give you a notchy feeling around the center, since the ffb becomes too high.
BUT, you can simply lower the gain until the center is smooth again.

So yes, it's possible, but needs some adjustments.
 
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Oh an I've a got G27 to test these, so I might finally update my download :)
If you don't want to read all of that post, just try out the "Real New LUTs" with 100% gain and 80% gain linked in the previous post:

Drag & Drop as usual, ff_post_process.ini is pre-configured :)

And here's the link to the excel sheet, if you wanna knock yourself out :roflmao:
 
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Oh an I've a got G27 to test these, so I might finally update my download :)
If you don't want to read all of that post, just try out the "Real New LUTs" with 100% gain and 80% gain linked in the previous post:

Drag & Drop as usual, ff_post_process.ini is pre-configured :)

And here's the link to the excel sheet, if you wanna knock yourself out :roflmao:
So i should set the ingame ffb to 80% or 100% depending on what LUT im using, so 80% ingame ffb with "RealNew80Gain" and vice versa?
 
So i should set the ingame ffb to 80% or 100% depending on what LUT im using, so 80% ingame ffb with "RealNew80Gain" and vice versa?
Yes, exactly!
The 80% LUT should feel exactly identical to the "recommended" LUT, while the 100% LUT will feel identical around the center and during turn in but then get stronger and clip earlier than the "recommended" LUT.

I hope to test this tomorrow with the G27. But I'm pretty sure about this.
 
Yes, exactly!
The 80% LUT should feel exactly identical to the "recommended" LUT, while the 100% LUT will feel identical around the center and during turn in but then get stronger and clip earlier than the "recommended" LUT.

I hope to test this tomorrow with the G27. But I'm pretty sure about this.
Okay I already tested it before you even replied so here is my thoughts.

RealNew80Gain - you definitely nailed it on this one, it feels the same as the recommended Lut where i dont even have to change anything and I seem to catch more slides even though they are similar. Downside is that theres more clipping but thats normal since im used to the recommended lut not clipping

RealNew100Gain - this one is definitely stronger than the other but the clipping is more frequent to the point it clips on corners i dont realize it could clip in but it felt really nice to finally able to use all of the ffb

So in my conclusion you finally nailed it on this one, There is clipping but its doable. Goodjob dude!

Btw i also use a g27 to test this.
 
Thanks for the positive feedback and testing all this!
The clipping with the 80 LUT is identical to the recommended, you just don't see it with the recommended.
Or does it feel differently?

The 100 LUT definitely clips more, yep.
Like I've calculated, it's clipping when the physics output reaches 100%, the 80 and recommended start clipping at 124% physics output.

Gonna test this myself in the next days, but I'm very very happy that I got it right this time. Spent the whole night thinking about this all and finding my mistakes :D
 
Thanks for the positive feedback and testing all this!
The clipping with the 80 LUT is identical to the recommended, you just don't see it with the recommended.
Or does it feel differently?

The 100 LUT definitely clips more, yep.
Like I've calculated, it's clipping when the physics output reaches 100%, the 80 and recommended start clipping at 124% physics output.

Gonna test this myself in the next days, but I'm very very happy that I got it right this time. Spent the whole night thinking about this all and finding my mistakes :D
The 80 lut feels the same as the recommended for me when its clipping. It clips but doesn't stay there for more than .2 secs, It flickers up and down while clipping so i still get the detail similar to the recommended lut and doesn't stay clip for too long.
 
I have now tested the RealNew80LUT with one car, and although I went back to what I've been using, I liked it a lot. When I have time to test it with different cars, I might very well switch to using that.
I've been using your lovely G25+G27+G29_NoClipButStronger_recommended LUT, but with 65% gain. Occasionally my G29 sounds like 65% is maybe a bit too much for it, but I love the feel. With 50% it actually feels too weak with most cars, so I'll rather dial it down for some cars - instead of dialing up for most cars.

You are doing magnificent work with these, thank you!
 
I have now tested the RealNew80LUT with one car, and although I went back to what I've been using, I liked it a lot. When I have time to test it with different cars, I might very well switch to using that.
I've been using your lovely G25+G27+G29_NoClipButStronger_recommended LUT, but with 65% gain. Occasionally my G29 sounds like 65% is maybe a bit too much for it, but I love the feel. With 50% it actually feels too weak with most cars, so I'll rather dial it down for some cars - instead of dialing up for most cars.

You are doing magnificent work with these, thank you!
Thanks for the feedback! I really appreciate it.

Is the recommended LUT with 50% too weak around the center or too weak while really turning into corners?
If it's fine around the center, I would suggest you try the new 100 LUT with 100% gain.
It has the same "anti deadzone curve" as the recommended and new 80 LUTs have, but becomes stronger outside of the center zone.

The amount of clipping will look worse, but it's not more clipping than with the recommended LUT at 65% gain. You just don't see it with the recommended LUT.

I personally feel a "notch" in the center with the recommended LUT and more than 50% gain. But maybe you like the "over tight center"?
If yes, all fine. But if you just want a slightly stronger ffb while keeping the super smooth center:
Try the new 100 LUT with 100% Gain :)
 
Recommended with 50% was fine around the center, but every car felt too easy to steer. At first I kept increasing the car-specific FFB, but when everything I drove had that at 120-150% I decided to increase the default gain.
I'll try both of the new LUTs with different cars, so far I've only had time to test with Abarth 500 Assetto Corse at Battenbergring. I'm more interested in how the vintage cars will feel, and I wouldn't be surprised if the new 80 LUT would actually be my final choice.
In some ways it did feel better than the recommended LUT with 65, and that had two outcomes:
1. I seemed to be a bit faster with it, because it felt safer and I wasn't too cautious
2. I crashed more often, because it felt safer and I wasn't cautious enough :D

So I guess there's just a slight learning curve :cool:
 
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Recommended with 50% was fine around the center, but every car felt too easy to steer
Ah, then the 100% should feel good for you :)
At first I kept increasing the car-specific FFB, but when everything I drove had that at 120-150% I decided to increase the default gain.
Yep, that's how it should be done. No need to adjust every single car hehe
I'll try both of the new LUTs with different cars
Looking forward to your feedback!
1. I seemed to be a bit faster with it, because it felt safer and I wasn't too cautious
2. I crashed more often, because it felt safer and I wasn't cautious enough :D

So I guess there's just a slight learning curve :cool:
:roflmao: Great stuff haha
The 80 LUT should feel identical with the following gain:
50 to 65: 65/50 = 1.3
80*1.3 = 104

So lots of clipping, but 104% gain with the 80 LUT should feel absolutely identical to the recommended LUT with 65% gain :p
 

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