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Pointers on the FR3.5 requested

Discussion in 'rFactor 2' started by Richard Eriksson, Mar 16, 2014.

  1. Hello.

    I have recently switched to FR3.5 after ignoring these basically for all of my time with rF2. Also messing around a bit with the F2.

    I want tot ry something new, so the FRs seemed a good choice to dive into now. But i am struggling as always when learning a new car.

    Those here with experience on the FRs, can you give me some pointers on it? I find it hard to set up and unstable. Lots of snap oversteer on throttle and i am also finding it "bouncing" really hard as if bottoming out, regardless of shocks.

    What's the word on these, both setup and racecraft wise? Right now i am clocking seat time alone on Silverstone with the hope to run some club racing in them when i am up to speed.

    Also, no matter what i do i seem to lock up brakes OR find myself on a line giving huge understeer at turn in and snap oversteer at exit.

    Maybe one should rely more on aero grip and keeping the speed at turn in?
  2. David O'Reilly

    David O'Reilly
    A bad quali means I can go forwards in the race.

    Its a big topic and I dont profess to be the guru but....
    I found a solution to the1) turn in understeer and 2)snap oversteer tendencies.
    1) Lower springs and front slow bump shock absorber settings , this will allow more / longer weight transfer to front axle increasing turn in. Also lower front ARB. Poss lower diff lock on coast.
    2) Lower springs and fast bump settings on rear, bumps can unsettle it. Poss add some diff lock on power. Runnning -1.5 on rear.
    Set tyre pressures to min (maybe +5 on front)
    • Beer Beer x 1
  3. @David O'Reilly
    Thanks. Tried it a bit and i find rhat your advice of lowering the fast bump and arb made it a lot more stable. Also, i found that running more diff lock on power as you hinted gives some understeer balancing out the nasty tendency to overrotate mid corner.

    What tire temps should i aim for with the slicks for FR3.5? I seem to have a hard time getting them to any useable temp range when running them very soft, and harder gives less grip and uneven temp spread.

    Still easy to unsettle it, but i think a bit of aero work next, should iron it out a bit.

    I also found that it behaves best when pushing it aggressively, as in trail braking late and flicking it at the apex like a madman, carrying a high entry speed. It seems more stable on entry if speed is higher.

    So it is progressing. As always something of an enigma, going to a new car, but an interesting one.

    Any ideas for aero?
  4. David O'Reilly

    David O'Reilly
    A bad quali means I can go forwards in the race.

    Tyre temps I find a little puzzling at present.
    The motec plugin tool seems to access the surface temp which fluctuates a lot (like IRL I guess if the infra red BBC images are anything to go by).
    I have noticed that it can take 3-4 laps for the tyre temps to really come in (core and middle temp must take time).
    Also have noticed that mid coner you can have up to 30 deg difference between inner and outer reading. So guides that worked for race 07 dont work in this respect due to a radically more complex tyre model I guess. When trying to tune this temp differential down with less camber or more pressure to get the o/s of the tyre working more it actually starts to cost grip.
    BTW a tyre with lower pressure should in theory heat faster due to more sidewall flex and overall distortion.
    At present low pressures rule.
    sometimes a tiny bit more front pressure seems to yield better FFB due to "pneumatic trail" model. But prob costs grip so its a trade off. So get it gripping best as poss and live with the temps that occur. Also the fastest lap seems to have the most stable temps mid corner so over driving is slower as the surface temp will cost grip over say 100 deg.

    I knpow the least about this as I spend the least time on it as its seems it should be very preditable and is a fairly blunt tool. I so far have been trying to master the mechanical grip side.
    However be warned I am still 3 sec / lap away from our aliens!
  5. @David O'Reilly
    Thank you for the help so far...

    It's actually starting to fall into place now. I think i found a good base set and i have improved. Feels great. The diff settings were really crucial to this.

    I shaved 1.5 secs. off my time during the weekend. :)
    • Like Like x 1
  6. David O'Reilly

    David O'Reilly
    A bad quali means I can go forwards in the race.

    When you are in the mood maybe a round of Formula Renault R3.5 League?
  7. More seat time in F2 done, and i have to say, that one behaves MUCH nicer than the FR35. It is a lot less oversteer prone and has much nicer grip mid corner. Not jumping around as much either.

    Perhaps it has a better default setup...

    Also i just discovered that the only car that fails to match the steering wheel to the onscreen when using 'vehicle set' option is the FR35. Possible bug there, albeit minor.
  8. David O'Reilly

    David O'Reilly
    A bad quali means I can go forwards in the race.

    Funny thing.
    I really don't enjoy the F2 compared to the FR3.5. The 3.5 seems for me to have much more feel.