Strange thing was, he concentrated on earlier notes, which were later revised!! Oh well, I guess anything was a good start and better than default. Here is the actual "notes' section I sent:
Notes:
4/16/15
The most important parameter to check that it's set to 100 is the Force Feedback Strength parameter in the main controller menu. It defaults for many wheels at 75 and some wheels at 50 which is
completely wrong. Then make sure FFB damping saturation (the next parameter under FFB strength) is set to zero.
Or: UPDATE
actually I just reversed the games ffb and the TM profiler,. so 100 in TM and 70 in game.. and theres no difference. feels as good as above.
After this I suggest using Real Gain parameter (first value to 0.98, second to 0.1 and last value again t 0.98) unless you have a direct drive wheel (2000$+ wheel).. or even the Fanatec CSW v2.
Then finally
remove all smoothing in the car setup FFB menu. All cars default to 0.1 Fx Smoothing which is stupid.
Then I suggest setting the values for most cars like this (note that his is very subjective though. You need to adapt the FFB to your own type of driving):
Fx = 48
Fy = 44
Fz = 54
Mz = 100
Then the top parameter (master scale) to your preferred setting. I usually have it at around 34 to 40, depending on how heavy FFB I want.
Finally
one of the most important and one of
the most difficult to understand and tweak parameters is called Spindle Arm Angle (or just spindle arm). You can ONLY find it in each car's setup screen when you are NOT in the actual practice/qualifying/race session. So from the main menu go into car setup editing and you will find it as the last value. Many cars have this setting quite nicely set but some cars have it completely wrong. This setting is key to getting a proper feel of the forces
through the whole range of slip angles. If you set the value too low you'll have a very tightly centered wheel with little FFB once you cross over optimum slip angle. If you set the value too high the opposite happens.. the wheel is very light and "slow" in the middle and gets progressively stronger the more you turn the wheel. Set it just right and your wheel will be giving you amazing detail.
EDIT: One last note: My way of tweaking FFB is purely based on laptimes. I tweak until I get the ultimate consistent laptimes. I don't care at all about trying to get a wheel to feel "realistic" (which would be completely dead in a normal car) nor do I try to get it "heavy and bumpy". I just tweak it for ultimate
important physics information fidelity. I want to know exactly when I'm not at optimum grip levels. This is the only fairly OBJECTIVE way of tweaking FFB because I can directly measure it. I drive 5 laps around Silverstone with default FFB. Check my laptimes. I then tweak the FFB and drive 5 more laps then compare the laptimes. Did I do better? Did I do worse? It's like tweaking a car setup.
FFB can have a HUGE impact on your laptimes, especially if it is "wrongly set". It can truly work against you and make the car feel very odd if it's badly setup. But get it just right and you can vastly improve the laptimes and as an added bonus you wont be spinning and crashing as often either.
-- bmanic @ www.racedepartment.com
5/6/15
1) I recommend setting the ingame FFB strength setting to 100 (very very important!). Then instead set the FFB strength in the Thrustmaster CONTROL PANEL between 60 - 75, depending on how much of a workout you want.
2) Also make sure to experiment with the
car setup FFB settings that you find in the garage/edit screen of each car. The most important setting there is called Spindle Arm Angle and can ONLY be found when you are
not on the track/in the actual gameplay part but rather in the main menu (I have no idea why they didn't include it in the in-game garage/setup screen). The spindle arm angle is set a bit weird on many cars. For instance the Ginetta G40 has it default to 15 I think but it works much better when set to 21.
I also usually tweak the Fx, Fy, Fz and Mz settings to something like this:
Fx = 80
Fy = 50 to 70 range
Fz = 60 to 70 range
Mz = 100 to 110 range
Then also set the Spindle arm multiplier (first setting on this screen) to something higher than the default 26. I usually end up at around 32 to 40, depending on how much down force the car produces (more down force = stronger FFB)
-- bmanic @ www.racedepartment.com
5/7/15
By the way, which car are you driving? I keep mentioning this but I'll say it again:
one of the most important FFB settings is
Spindle Arm Angle and it can be found in the
car setup screen (but NOT from the on-track car setup screen!!). It's set separately for each and every car.
Example: Ginetta G40 feels extremely stiff and hard centered on my TX 458 with it's default settings. So I made these changes (note, these are from memory! I have yet to drive the release version of Project CARS.. stuck with too much work still
):
Spindle Master Scale = 36
Fx = 100
Fy = 60
Fz = 60
Mz = 110
Spindle Arm Angle (the last parameter in the FFB tab in the car setup) = 21 (instead of the default 15).
Please experiment with the spindle arm angle as it has such a dramatic impact on absolutely everything. Many cars I feel do not have it set optimally yet.
-- bmanic @ www.racedepartment.com
5/7/15
guys its easy....
I have a t300 GTE.
Ive set FFB in Thrustmaster panel to 100 (as I do all my sims)
I also set in Wheel Pcars menu
FFB 100
Dampening
15 (NOTE: I actually found that I prefer a high damper setting (
50-100) in wheel config. Just feels less snappy than without. )
Tyre Force 100
Then in each car specific FFB I set the master lower. For instance the Formula a car (f1) has the most grip so it produces the most FFB, ive lowered that Master gain to 10, and it feel lovely.
-- Msportdan @ www.racedepartment.com
