Overheating tires

[Dennis Phelan]

I seem to be pretty good at getting tires to overheat. Usually just one tire, just a car or a track here or there. When this happens to me I can't seem to find a way to eliminate or reduce it. What do you do when this happens to you?

 

[Craig Hume]

I go slower and usually end up off track

 

[Peter]

I slow down for couple of laps.
In the beginning of my simrace carreer I burned the tire with in 4-5 laps.
Now it never happens again.

 

[David Buxton]

Mine also overheat quite quickly.... The problem is if I go any slower I will end up going backwards

 

[Peter]

I did a saved race in Real time Racing agains real drivers at Zolder. After 2 laps I was 5 sec. in front of the seccond and i thought, what bunch of pussys. 5 laps later I was 10 sec. behind.
After this experience I changed my driving style by not winning a race after the first lap.

 

[Bram Hengeveld]

Slow in fast out when it comes to corners.

Also make sure you don't overdrive the tyres due to a steerlock that doesnt match your rotation of the wheel. Very important.

 

[Matthew Schofield]

The toe in/out setting can be used to move tyre temp from one side of the car to the other. If your left front tyre is overheating, add positive toe. It will decrease the temp of the front left, and increase the temp of the front right. I don't think it should work like that in real life, but it does in the game.

 

[Bryan O'Connor]

Also make sure you don't overdrive the tyres due to a steerlock that doesnt match your rotation of the wheel. Very important.

Explain to us mere mortals please

 

[Bram Hengeveld]

If your steerlock is set too high with too little rotation of the steeringwheel you will give easily to much input when cornering, resulting the tyres to overheat, scrub and eventually degrade faster.

I have my wheel set to 540 degrees rotation with 22 steerlock in game.

 

[Tom]

[medio]1109[/medio]

Look at them rear tyres!

I have to agree with Bram, tho. My rotation is set to 270° (F1 style rim) and the lock (in the car setup) is 19.0 or 19.5.

 

[Jamie R]

Making sure your tyre pressure isn't too low helps tremendously, as I found out yesterday.

 

[Knut Omdal Tveito]

As you turn the wheels you increase the cornering force, but only up to a point and then the cornering force drops off with more steering angle. On the other hand, the tyre-heating continue to increase the more you turn the wheels. So if you turn the wheels beyond the sweet-spot, you loose cornering force but start to overheat the tyres. Lose-Lose situation. With low steering ratio (high lock) it's harder to find that sweetspot

 

[Andrew Ford]

so in basic terms...the less you steer the better it is on your tyres except in slow speed corners such as hairpins where you want the turn done and dusted as quickly as possible?

 

[Mark Greenall]

I have the opposite problem, 3 tyres around 80-90c Then 1 blue on thats clap cold on the back. frustrates me as i cannot solve it.

 

[Ian Gethin]

I get same problem - on front wheel drive WTCC / STCC i struggle to keep temperature in rear tyres.

 

[Tim Ling]

[medio]1109[/medio]

Look at them rear tyres!

I have to agree with Bram, tho. My rotation is set to 270° (F1 style rim) and the lock (in the car setup) is 19.0 or 19.5.

Tom Endres I use 270° too, and I now use just 5-10 degrees of lock. I still get round the corners ok, and tyre wear & overheating are reduced.

 

[Knut Omdal Tveito]

One thing to keep in mind though is that setup work is about getting the best out of the tyres, but more importantly it's also about making the car handle the way you want.

Fwd cars will always have a problem with understeer because of weight distribution and the front driven wheels. To make the car more neutral you increase the rear roll-stiffness to increase the weight transfer on the rear axle. The result is that you reduce grip at the rear and increase front grip, making it more neutral. What also happens is that the inside rear wheel does much less work because the rear weight-transfer is increased (you can often see the wheel lifting clear off the ground). So naturally that wheel would be much colder because it's doing less work.

If you wanted to get similar rear temperatures you would have to soften the rear quite alot, but the end result would be much more understeer and a slower car overall. It's not all about tyre temperatures

On a powerful rwd car it's the opposite. To have good traction you run a softer rear suspension and stiffer front to keep the car stable under power. So the inside front wheel will be colder. If you tried to get even temperatures in these cars, it would probably end up with too much oversteer and difficult to get the power to ground.

 

[Jari Aikio]

i change slow bumpers (front and back) to less if overheated tyres when testing, that helps a lot

 

[Ariciuc Razvan]

Try not to accelerate as hard(especially after you hit the apex), i have 360 degrees on G27. And depending on track /car i go somewhere between 12 to 17-18 lock, and tires are ok.

For the 22 min WTCC club races i end up with about 60+% on front and 70%+ on rear at the end if i'm not fighting too much.
For mini i can do a 60min race and end up at the limit 55-60%.
But there are some tracks (Barcelona) that eat up tires like crazy. So track surface can make a big difference in tire wear, in the "stock" tracks from Simbin i don't really see a big difference from one to another. But in addon tracks things change.

The quickest solution is to slow down, break earlier so you don't break as hard but.. that's all counter performance when you're racing.

 

[Kyle Kaiser]

Mine also overheat quite quickly.... The problem is if I go any slower I will end up going backwards

Stop doing burnouts!