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My DIY CST pedal build

Discussion in 'Sim Racing Hardware' started by Barry Burke, Jan 23, 2012.

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    • Like Like x 11
  2. very great job,
  3. Nice, how much would you estimate the cost if you include everything like the hours that you have put in?
    Compared to what it would cost to buy a ready built set.

    I´m sure it´s cheaper but it would be interesting to see how much cheaper.
  4. Alex Ball

    Alex Ball
    Web Nerd

    Top work - they look great!
  5. These are really nice - very good quality work. Can't wait until my pedals are finished, probably much sooner if I stopped going on racedepartment :)
  6. That is nice. This has to go on the to do list, It will be a good excuase to not get work done in the shop
    ;) I will say for a guy wearing a onezy you sure are smart and good with tools
  7. Really nice job :D
  8. Very nice mate, I'm sure you'll love yours as much as I love mine. Once they're painted they will look awesome. When you starting the F1 Pedal build then?
  9. Thanks Will i'll probably do a hydraulic brake first but i have enough parts left to get a lot of the f1 set done.
  10. Not sure if you missed my post above, i would appreciate an estimate if you can since i plan to buy CST´s in the future.
  11. A little over €200 to build your own set apparently. In case anyone is interested in building their own.

    EDIT: Fixed, Barry. Ok good to know, but now we know in which ballpark we are talking about.
  12. I also got some of the parts free
  13. Well done Sir. Nice job. You should not forget the peddle stop on the brake peddle. It goes onto the load cell to stop over pressing and bending the bar... Ask me how I know...
  14. Hey George
    I'm not too sure what your talking about, could you post a pic of the pedal stop i dont think Todd has them on this type of pedal set.
  15. Very nice Barry!!
  16. Yes George, I remember you wrote about this some time ago, Forgot to ask you then....
    Would you be able to highlight or a couple of picks how you achieved this

  17. Rupe Wilson

    Rupe Wilson
    Senior HistorX club driver Staff Member Premium Member

    Somtimes its not about the money,, its about having a idea and following it through to a working model.. its the satifaction You get from this.. I MADE THIS.. (money canot buy this feeling):D
  18. [​IMG]hello iam fabien from switzerland , great job , i make a same but i search two pieces where i can find it thanks
  19. Looks great but i would fit the sealed dust free Potentiometer's, i can recommend the P260P that Leo supplies here. I fitted a set of these some time ago to my pedals and they are as accurate as you could wish for, every time i hit my brake now i feel the really stiff part of the pedal kick in at 90% of the travel every time.
  20. I have completed the rough build and testing has gone well. Still moving the pedals around for my feet. I need to settle on a lenght on the pedal arm chop off the extra and permamently mount the foot pedals.Todd Canon from CST gets all the props for designing these. But he gets a F for not sending the diy plans that I paid for. I built my set from the local hardware store and a Mouser order for the pots a Leo Bodnar load cell controller( JUST BUY THE CONNECTORS WITH THE WIRES) little bastards hard to solder.... and a China order for the 60 kg load cell. So going off some pictures the hard part is what size to make stuff. Made some shoot from hip measurements cut up metal and soon had a working pedal arm. I changed many things from org.design. The hard part is mounting in a Obutto this took the longest and several tries later found a way to do it. I OK (over kill) everything and the set weights a good bit. I used 3/4 inch rod for the support where the pedal slides 2 inch Heavy gauge c channel using some clutch springs from a motorcycle for the brake. This where I am at with the brake I have a good pressure feel and can feather the brake good to control lock ups.How much travel are you guys getting on the brake? Me I max out the load cell at a good travel but in the game the tires lock way early with less travel. It must be a calibration deal. The Leo controller is plug and play and iRacing picked up the pedals first time. I love the throttle and the clutch holeshot way better.I have done several races with them and will say it was worth the time. I know pictures well when I get the pedals attached propper and tidy up the spider web I will post them up. I guess I have about 350 USD in them and many hours. But they fit and work.