• "Auto racing began 5 minutes after the second car was built." - Henry Ford
  1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.
  2. Dear Guest. Follow RaceDepartment on Twitter, Facebook, Instagram, Twitch, Steam and YouTube.

Loadcell vs conical break mod

Discussion in 'Sim Racing Hardware' started by Kjell Eilertsen, Oct 17, 2017.

  1. Kjell Eilertsen

    Kjell Eilertsen

    Messages:
    3,800
    Ratings:
    +1,253
    Hello all,
    Anyone here have actual experience with loadcell brake pedal vs using a conical break mod?
    For further clarification, I'd like to hear from someone who has done some actual A/B testing moving back and forth between the two to see whether one really was better than the other, rather than someone having moved from one to the other and "think" one is better.

    I've run with loadcell brakes before but am now looking at a Thrustmaster wheel/pedal set and wonder if I have to factor in replacing the pedals right off the bat or not.
     
  2. dabinn

    dabinn

    Messages:
    1
    Ratings:
    +1
    I have both Thrustmaster T3PA with conical break mod & Fanatec CSL pedals with LC brake. The conical break is a cheap solution and the feel is not too bad, but the main issue is the max. break point always change because of the combination of rubber cone and potentiometer.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  3. Rodent

    Rodent
    Premium

    Messages:
    634
    Ratings:
    +274
    I ran the T3PAs for years before switching to a pair of CSL Elite LCs. Obviously the CSLs are better but the T3PAs are by no means bad.

    Personally I've replaced the actual rubber cone part of the cone brake mod and put a squash ball between the metal spacer and the brake pedal for what I feel is a more progressive brake feel, with this the T3PAs are perfectly acceptable for sims/games that have issues with multiple input devices. Like dabinn says above just remember to calibrate the brake when you start or T1 will be interesting ( This is easily done by braking as far as the pedal will allow you to go with your brake mod ).

    TLDR: Obviously I prefer my over twice as expensive pedals with a LC, but the T3PAs will serve you until/if you decide to replace them, and for when running separate pedals aren't an option.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  4. Kjell Eilertsen

    Kjell Eilertsen

    Messages:
    3,800
    Ratings:
    +1,253
    Thanks guys for your input!
    So what you're saying is that the max brake point is changing between gaming sessions? Or is it over time due to the rubber changing (getting stiffer over time i guess?)?
    Or is this purely down to the calibration as you mentioned @Rodent ?
    Don't want my brake pedal to be changing every time i start gaming, would make learning brake points so hard, as if i don't struggle enough with it already :p
     
  5. Rodent

    Rodent
    Premium

    Messages:
    634
    Ratings:
    +274
    Nah it shouldn't be constantly changing. Brake as hard as you can to calibrate the pedal and you'll be good to go.

    Like I said I'd invest in a squash ball to replace the actual rubber cone with but I think that largely comes down to preference, the rubber cone is somewhat adjustable but I could never get it quite where I wanted whereas cramming the squash ball between the metal spacer and the brake gives me a nice progressive feel and better initial resistance in the pedal.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  6. cr4wl3r0

    cr4wl3r0

    Messages:
    29
    Ratings:
    +18
    I can confirm T3PA PRO works quite well. Also you can purchase Leo Bodnar adapter cable for standalone (to gain more resolution..)
     
  7. Kjell Eilertsen

    Kjell Eilertsen

    Messages:
    3,800
    Ratings:
    +1,253
    Thanks for the feedback guys. :)