Like your FFB strong? Think again..

Niels_at_home

Reiza Studios
Heyas,

I've been around this simracing scene now forever and it seems the vast majority of folks like to run very high force feedback settings. Then you often read claims how great it feels and how they can even feel the effect of flies building up on the windscreen through these FFB settings (sarcasm = on). Some even feel when the coffee is done in the kitchen (sarcasm = still on)..

Force Feedback talk
Good sims will use complex physics engines to calculate the force feedback. Part of the feel is the tires, part is the suspension geometry, and this all changes with steering angle and things like how much weight (load) is on the tires.

If you'd only feel the tire part of the force feedback, the forces would be near ZERO by the time you've applied the optimum steering angle to get maximum grip. Thats just how tire physics (pneumatic trail) works, give or take some margins. Counter intuitive eh, but its often near true!

Suspension geometry usually adds a chunk of force, but still it is higly likely that the force you feel in a racing car drops off after a certain amount of steering and by the time you've applied the optimum steering angle for max grip, force through the steering wheel might be about half of the maximum.

That means when the steering goes light in a racing car, you might not be understeering at all, you might be right at the maximum grip levels!

Problems with sims
Even when your favourite sim has good tire and suspension physics, that doesn't mean your wheel (G25, Fanatec, Thrustmaster etc) will behave properly. The physics engine will just calculate a torque or a steering rack force, perhaps during a lap this value is between 0 and 5000 Newtons.

At some point the sim will have to tell your FFB steering wheel what force it has to apply. You can imagine there is some scaling required. Ideally the 0 .. 5000Newton that occur on the track should be the range where your FFB wheel responds between 0% and 100% of its capable force.

This scaling is NOT DONE AUTOMATICALLY by iracing / LFS / rFactor&Realfeel !! You have to scale this yourself. In iRacing and LFS its the force feedback strength in the menu, with rFactor&Realfeel there is the realfeelplugin.ini 'Max Force' entry to adjust.

When you scale the forces down too much, you get weak force feedback. When you don't scale them down enough, you're asking more from your wheel than it can do, so at some point the forces will be trimmed. This is called 'clipping'. If your wheel has a maximum of 100, you can't make it do 200. So anything you ask from it above 100, you won't feel a difference.

First chart: Scaling the force feedback

ffb1.png

The blue line is how a good simulator might calculate the force feedback strength versus your steering wheel angle. It is what it *wants* your FFB wheel to do.

Lets say proper scaling means you have to run the ingame FFB strength at 20% which is not uncommon at all. In this example, 20% strength matches the maximum occuring force feedback of the physics engine to the maximum feedback your wheel can put out.

If you'd use 100% ingame FFB strength, you would only have a small part of the desired curve fit below that line. That is bad.


Second chart: Results
ffb2.png


This chart is the results; what YOU feel on your wheel. You can see that running 100% FFB strength tries to make your wheel 5x stronger than it really is. It just can't do it, so you feel the red line. Apply steering, forces max out *very* quickly, and as you steer more, the force stays maxed out. It hasn't got the power to follow the desired dotted line. This is what many simracers do probably without knowing it. The force feedback isn't detailed at all, its almost on/off.

The green line is what you get with proper scaling. It follows the desired shape exactly, but now with the maximum occuring force nicely matched to your wheels maximum deliverable force.

Now why does 100% still feel stronger than 20%, despite the maximum force being the same? At 100% you have to grip the wheel like mad because any slight bump or minimal steering will result in maximum force. Once you're steering, the forces are mostly constant, but going near straight you feel strong jolts left/right as micro bumps / steering inputs cause these forces. Wheels setup like this are often unstable and will oscillate when you let go of the wheel on the straight. For some reason lots of folks think this feels good.

So how do I set this up correctly then?
Thats the hard part. Even on the same car if you change the car setup (caster, downforce) the numbers will change. On a flat street circuit the values will be different than in a fast banked oval.

Realfeel with rFactor is the easiest, you can drive the car on a track, look at the telemetry, and the 'Steering Arm Force' that you see in a hard corner is your desired Realfeel.ini "MaxForce" entry. Don't look at short spikes of force, go for a sort of average force you see in a fast bend.

With other sims its a matter of getting a feel for what your wheel can do. Once you know what its maximum strength feels like, lower the ingame FFB strength until you clearly are below this maximum force. Then add force slowly until you get to the point where it seems saturation occurs. I can't help much, the FFB strength will typically be between 1% and 100% :S. Try the maximum force in a steady corner, because on a straight, the sudden left/right jolts of too strong force feedback will make it feel subjectively stronger than it is.

Conclusions?
Current wheels like the G27 are fairly weak; they can't really deliver a strong force. It is very easy to try and ask too much from the wheel. It might also lead to overheating and faster wear!

I've tried to show you what force feedback scaling does and how running too strong force feedback settings can numb down the detail you feel, even when it *seems* like the effects are nice and strong.

Everybody is free of course to use whatever setting they like, but at least this shows that people running very high FFB strengths claiming they get lots of detail and a good feel for the car, are wrong from an objective point of view.
 
please excuse i am getting a little lost in all this i have t500 do i set the profiler at 100% then in game at50%and start from there or start profiler a 50% and in game at 50% as a starting point help as i am new to sim racing my sims are ac re3 and soon gsce
In AC if you set 100% in the profiler with 0% effects you just have to adjust the slider of force feedback until you don't see clipping in the pedal app.
 
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thanks for your settings i will try what you suggest profiler100% and all others 0% in game i think i will try 50% as a starting point
 
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thanks for the info......why does 100% not equal 100%and 72% equal 100% seems confusing to me ..but i will try what you suggest also do you link with let game decide thanks again
 
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I thought the T300RS and T500RS base were the same. Is there any major difference between them?
Totally different. T500RS has more outright torque/power and a higher rotation top speed, but the TX and T300RS have more reactive and lively FFB, more detailed, more alive, and smoother as well due to the different motor (most likely due to it being brushless).

Most people prefer the TX/T300RS due to seemingly quicker reactions and detail. More precision if you want to call it that. It's just more alive, however the T500RS does have more raw power/torque and a higher top speed.

The higher top speed may be important to drifters. In terms of the power/torque, I love powerful wheels and use them to their full potential, but even so, I'd take the TX/T300RS over the T500RS because it seems more "alive", and detailed, it seems to give more feel. It seems quicker reacting (possibly quicker acceleration and less internal resistance/damping) and that more than made up for the less outright power/torque for me.

Overall I'd definitely recommend the TX/T300RS over the T500RS. I believe, in the end, the TX/T300RS delivers a technically better racecar driving experience

P.S. I owned a T500RS for about two years and have done a decent amount of testing with the TX.

NOTE: The TX's stock cheapo rim (plastic and rubber 458 roadcar rim) is by far the lightest rim in Thrustmaster's range. It's only around 750 g (compared to about 1200 for the 458 GTE, 599xx Evo, etc. and around 1000 - 1100 g for the stock T500RS rim). The much lighter rim could be skewing the results slightly as a lighter rim will generally always make the FFB feel more alive on any FFB wheel system. Even so, I still feel that the TX/T300RS offers a more alive racing experience with more detail in feel.

thanks for the info......why does 100% not equal 100%and 72% equal 100% seems confusing to me ..but i will try what you suggest thanks again
I erased my original reply so as to avoid confusion, please see the post here --> http://www.racedepartment.com/threads/like-your-ffb-strong-think-again.30763/page-6#post-2074528
 
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ok will try in the next few days as i am away at the moment ...thanks again you have been most helpfull.. and do you link to let game decide.will let you know how it goes
 
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Thrustmaster T500RS

At 70% overall force, the T500RS uses almost the same amount of max torque as it does when set to 100%, however it outputs it's full range of torque in a much more linear manner. Someone on the iRacing foums said 72% was the ideal percentage.
t500graph1_zpsd394b45c.jpg


Thrustmaster T500RS Control Panel Settings
Overall Force = 72%
Periodic = 100%
Constant = 100%
Spring = 0%
Damper = 0%
Auto-Center Settings = by the game (Recommended)

You almost certainly want to keep all these settings as your standard settings for any sim.

Minimum Force - If your game has it (e.g. rFactor 2 and iRacing), around 3-4 % should be ideal when overall force is set to 72%.



Thrustmaster T300RS / TX

According to this graph, I'd say 70 - 80% with the T300RS. The TX and T300RS are apparently the same thing (motor, electronics, etc. besides the different console stuff) so should be the same. I'm not sure if different rims can affect these curve-shapes. The weight of different rims probably affects the shifting of the results which is fine as long as the curve-shape (linearty) doesn't change.

T300RSwheelcheckresults.jpg



Thrustmaster T300RS Control Panel Settings
Overall Force = 70% - 80%
Periodic = 100%
Constant = 100%
Spring = 0%
Damper = 0%
Auto-Center Settings = by the game (Recommended)

You almost certainly want to keep all these settings as your standard settings for any sim.

Minimum Force - If your game has it (e.g. rFactor 2 and iRacing), around 4% when overall force is set to 70% - 80%
 
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Thank you very much now i understand how ffb settings are done for t500.....you have been so helpfull to me ..as i am new to sim racing regards denis
 
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Interestingly my own T500 testing (using a T500 from December 2013) didn't give as linear result as Spinelli. 60-70% still tapers off.

This is a direct comparison of my T500 and T300, with the vertical axis left at degrees rotated in 300ms so you can see just how much faster the T500 spins. The graph is deliberately not flattering to the curve tapering off, to make clear just how things are:


I use the default 75% gain on the T300 as the best compromise and the default 60% gain on the T500 for the same reason. In the end it doesn't make too much difference as long as the game lets you set gain and minimum force accurately: Either way you want to use part of the wheel's response curve which gives you the most linear result, so for Thrustmaster wheels that means skipping the flat bit near the top, lowering gain in game down so you don't use that part of the range.
 
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Thrustmaster T300RS Control Panel Settings
Overall Force = 70% - 80%
Periodic = 100%
Constant = 100%
Spring = 0%
Damper = 0%
Auto-Center Settings = by the game (Recommended)

I came to this conclusion on my T300 GTE, feels fantastic on all my sims. No need for anymore overall force. Hardly any clipping in any of the sims and I don't have to keep changing wheel settings.
 
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thanks again for the help spinelli and skazz i am still away from home so when i get back my starting point 66% half way between 60 and 72 and will go from there THERE IS A LOT TO LEARN WHEN YOU ARE NEW TO SIM RACING
 
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