G27 "shimmy" at dead center

[RasmusP]

I edited my post a little with some numbers to make things clearer
The front wheels, chassis angle and steering wheel angle really is a bit complicated to understand. Took me a few years (I never got an explanation though.. )

It makes sense when you draw a car while cornering normally vs when drifting on a sheet of paper with all 4 wheels visible.

I questioned if I read someone else's post elsewhere correctly that said you have to change your wheel settings every time you change cars... but I assumed they meant the car set-up.

You don't have to change anything when changing the car in rF2, AC, ACC, automoblista 1 and raceroom.
I didn't use the other sims but probably same thing!

The issue is that almost no sim has a "soft lock".
What that means is:
You set your wheel to 900, you set the sim game to 900.
Then you select a car with 540° in reality and the sim game (rF2) will synchronize your G27 to 540°.

Now if you turn your wheel to 545°, the visual wheel in rF2 will stop turning at 540°.
The ffb will become "dull" after 540° but there is no "end stop" or anything.

Games like dirt rally have a setting for this so you can do something like "30% ffb strength end stop" that you will feel when reaching the maximum.

But rF2, AC, acc etc don't have this!

So a workaround is to set your G27 in the logitech profiler to 540° and you will have the end stop from the logitech driver.

But now you have to set a different gain (lower angle = stronger ffb = lower gain) for each car and it's a big mess.
Also the end stop from the wheel drivers are super bad.
The wheel will bounce back and forth violently when reaching it..

Also:
How often do you hit the maximum? I only do when spinning and crashing.
I couldn't care less to have to rotate my real wheel 80° more before the visual wheel starts to respond again.

I specifically ran my wheel tests & saved my Troy 1~6 with a 397 track & car, but now you made me wonder if I ran the calibration wizard while I still had a Spec Miata 2 & then I changed to the 397 car track & car & created my other saves...

The calibration should always work the same.
In fact you don't need the calibration at all, honestly.
Just select 900° in rF2 and the logitech profiler and it will work!

To do this just set it to manually and set it to 900.
Then set it to automatically by car.

I used - Indy 2020 + BMW M4 Class 1 2021

I'll hit the track with that combo tonight. Is this free content?
And then I'll post you all setting adjusted for your G27

 

[RasmusP]

I didn't manage to try any combo today, but here are the settings I used with my G27.
The car specific multiplier needs to be set per car. If you get oscillation around the center, lower this for the car you're using.
With some mods, I even used 200%...
The G27 is a pretty weak wheel, so the standard is 100% car, 100% ffb strength, 100% in the Logitech profiler.
This will give you some clipping, but the driving is still fine.
Clipping isn't really bad! It's not like audio clipping, where the peaks of the round sine wave are cut off and you hear distorted sounds!
FFB only contains LEFT/RIGHT & 0-100%. You can have Left 70% for a minute and you simply will have a constant force to hold against.

When you have an audio signal with +70%, the speaker will simply move to 70% and stay there, without making any sounds.

So if you experience wild rattling and shaking when going over kerbs, it's NOT clipping!
It's just a loud wheelbase

Clipping would actually make it quieter and calmer, since your ffb won't be dynamic anymore.
Example:
Not clipping, left turn, kerb. FFB would be: Right -> 80% ->95% -> 75% -> 90%

With clipping, left turn, kerb. FFB would be: Right -> 100% -> 100% -> 100% -> 100%

The issue with clipping is that you feel no details anymore. Like grip increasing the faster you're going with an aero car like F1.

Anyway, here are the settings. Device driver, custom, 900° and then set by vehicle ON.
This then works identically to AC and ACC and like I described earlier.
Below the "Range set by vehicle" will be the wheel angle for the car you're currently driving.
I didn't start a session, so it's dark.

And in the profiler:

 

[Durge Driven]

I set centering force so steering behaves like normal car when stationary.
Any car or truck I have driven the steering will spring back slightly when you rotate wheel
standing still. More tyre pressure more it will spring back less pressure it will feel less pronounced.
If I use no spring turning the wheel stationary has no force, does nothing which to me is very arcade feeling. Why worry about what wheel does stationary, why not.
So I am talking 5-10% center, no more.

 

[RasmusP]

I set centering force so steering behaves like normal car when stationary.
Any car or truck I have driven the steering will spring back slightly when you rotate wheel
standing still. More tyre pressure more it will spring back less pressure it will feel less pronounced.
If I use no spring turning the wheel stationary has no force, does nothing which to me is very arcade feeling. Why worry about what wheel does stationary, why not.
So I am talking 5-10% center, no more.

Is your damper ffb channel set to 0%?
Normally you should have this strong, rubbery force when standing still! (rF2, AC, ACC). Not sure about AMS/AMS2.
Dirt Rally 1&2 have inbuilt centering spring for menus to make sure your wheel is straight when starting a session.

The issue is that the driver centering spring doesn't switch off while driving. You really can not drift with it on at all.

 

[AMA_King]

Thanks again to all participants for the discussion & advice - I'm not going to quote replies, but I want to address a few items...

RE: I used the FREE "Indy 2020" Road Course version + BMW M4 - Class 1 - 2021 - because I wanted a track & car made by 397 so there would be zero chance my wheel issues were caused by a funky mod.

~ My fav track is Laguna, but screw 397 & their BS iRacing wannabe DLC sales model. I saw a "historic" version in Steam Workshop, but have not run it - YET! I could run Laguna all day w/ an endless variety of different cars.

Anyway - settings below allowed me to finally finish a 5 minute / 3 lap race (Novice) with the track / car noted above & I even won!! WHOO-HOO!

 

[AMA_King]

PS: I'm not thrilled with these settings, but will need some time to run them & then change 1 thing, document it & be more methodical vs the hammer approach I was swinging this time...

 

[davehenrie]

The workshop Laguna is a good conversion, if you like that track, you should have no issues. Just no DRS zones to take advantage of that feature on the Class 1 BMW. It will take some time to change your muscle memory reflexes, but soon it should be as comfortable as your previous experiences.