Hi I own a Thrustmaster T300 and I had deadzone on my pedals, as apparently so many others do in their TX and other wheels that come with these plastic pedals. Please remember that opening something that is under warraty will void it, although there are no warranty stickers in these pedals. I'm going to put some instructions on how to fix or improve this issue. The 1st thing you will need is patience as this is not likely to take less than 1 hour. Be aware that getting everything back together and testing is a pain so, again, you'll need patience and some basic DIY skills. Instructions: 1- Unscrew all the screws in the base. 2- Unscrew and remove the plates in the pedals 3- Carefully open the pedal base (It might be a good idea to also remove the brake's srping and keep it somewhere safe wrapped in paper) 4- Find the potentiometers/ sensors that are close to the base of the pedals 5- Take note of where the first tooth of the pedal's cog slots into the potentiometer's/sensor cog slot. This is crucial as if you do something wrong you can put everything back the way it was. Click to zoom. This is when the tuning comes into play, the potentiometer only starts to read movement after a certain position so you need to get as close as possible to that zone. From the 2 pedals sets I fixed I found that making the 1st tooth of the pedal slot into the 4th slot between the teeth of the potentiometer usually worked the best. It might not be so in your particular case you'll need to find the ideal slot for each potentiometer. You'll need to try and see where it works best for your pedal, slot it into a hole further down, reasemble the pedals, plug the the wheel in and open the Thrustmaster software, test the pedals at their full lenght to see how it's working, if you still have deadzone desasemble everything and try the slot further down in the potentiometer. If when the pedal is at it's resting point and the software already shows the pedal bar has input then you'll need to go to the upper slot in the potentiometer. It's unlikely you'll get rid of the deadzone entirely, all depends on the potentiometer you got. If you get stuck with some weird calibration the only thing that I found out that reseted the pedal was to rotate the potentiometer to a new starting slot. When reasembling the pedals the spring will be slightly out of place, you'll need to slide it into position with your finger during the process.