Bass shakers. Best for the money spent?

[Robin86]

So I tried out a FULL sim racing rigg with like every premium thing on it and comming home to my on felt kinda awfull ngl lol. But one of the biggest things I noticed is how much the bass shakers did for the immersion.

So I have a Simlab Gt1 evo rig and wanna build a bass shaker setup. Dont want the cheapest possible but cant go full out either.

This is the shaker I have my eyes on:
https://reckhorn.com/en/body-transducer/39/bass-body/shaker/transducer

Mostly because it seems like it could go down to 5hz? It sounds a bit to good for it to be true but maybe like 10-15hz?

Are there other better alternativs that gives some power in the low hz aswell? The guy who got me in to this had the buttkicker lfe under the seat and that like low hz rumble was really nice for the engine sounds and such.

Now for the amp and setup. I think I actually would prefer going for 4 shakers and was ondering how you think 3 around the seat and one at the pedal tray would feel? Since I really liked the "kick" you got when shifting and such and didnt care about the abs quite as much.

The amp is actually the biggest problem for me. Ive tried to narrow it down a bit

https://www.thomann.de/se/tamp_s150.htm

This is a 2 channel. Downside is that I will need two of them If i want 4 shakers

https://www.thomann.de/se/the_tamp_e800.htm

This is another. Still 2 channel but since it got 2x 350 W at 8 Ohm I should be able to run 2 at each channel if i wire them in a row? Downside of this is that its fan driven and that I need 2 of the 4 playing from the same channel and the other 2 play from the other channel and then i cant make all 4 handle different sound right?

Last. The mounting on the Gt evo . I dont want the vibrations just where I put the shaker like im guessing the mount to the seat will feel? So whats the best location for em to make the whole rig shake but not to isolated to one spot?

Im still new to this so every input is highly appreciated =) Cheers

 

[Elaphe]

I have that model of shaker you linked. They work great and are not very expensive. If you screw them to directly to your bucket seat, the results are very good (more direct and noticiable). I have one on each side of the bucket, one on the bottom, one on the lower back and one under the pedal deck. The shaker under the pedals is screwed to the DM sheet where I have my pedals installed. Since I have the volume of this shaker quite high to notice the vibrations it tends to heat up, so I installed a 12 cm fan. I have 3 amplifiers: one for the left / right, one for the bottom / back and one (mono) for the pedals. With SimHub you can set stereo separation or send specific effects to each shaker, as well as control volumes, frequencies, etc. The amps I have are these: https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B07DPKSKVQ?psc=1 / https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B076P2VS9H?psc=1 and the mono model which is a Nobsound NS-03G FR. They are really small and I have them on the floor of my rig. As regards the connections, you can use your motherboard audio channels or a dedicated sound card (I have a cheap external card). I'm using the front channels for one amp, the rear channels for the other one and the center channel for the mono amp.

 

[Robin86]

I have that model of shaker you linked. They work great and are not very expensive. If you screw them to directly to your bucket seat, the results are very good (more direct and noticiable). I have one on each side of the bucket, one on the bottom, one on the lower back and one under the pedal deck. The shaker under the pedals is screwed to the DM sheet where I have my pedals installed. Since I have the volume of this shaker quite high to notice the vibrations it tends to heat up, so I installed a 12 cm fan. I have 3 amplifiers: one for the left / right, one for the bottom / back and one (mono) for the pedals. With SimHub you can set stereo separation or send specific effects to each shaker, as well as control volumes, frequencies, etc. The amps I have are these: https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B07DPKSKVQ?psc=1 / https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B076P2VS9H?psc=1 and the mono model which is a Nobsound NS-03G FR. They are really small and I have them on the floor of my rig. As regards the connections, you can use your motherboard audio channels or a dedicated sound card (I have a cheap external card). I'm using the front channels for one amp, the rear channels for the other one and the center channel for the mono amp.

Thanks alot buddy! Liked everything you said aside from them getting hot lol. Do they give a "deep rumble" because I dont want that "playsation dualrumble" feeling that feels like a vibrator at full speed lol. Think Ill start with 4 of them and 2 amps. 3 on the seat and one under the pedals. Regarding the seat, if you where to remove the bottom or the one in the back, wich one would u be removing? And what amp do you prefer or feels like its giving the best response for the shakers? Any pictures on your seat ? I have the b550- motherboard. I will link a picture. Any chance I could use 2 amps there without removing my speakers wich is already in line out? Sorry for many and dumb questions.

 

[Elaphe]

Maybe it would be enough with one the back and do without the one on the bottom. Actually when I made my design I considered using one on the lower back and one on the upper back. As regards the amp, they are very similar to each other and they just work fine. The power they offer is more than enough. I'm not a technician so I can't go into details. If you have limitations with your motherboard, this tiny external audio card is just 40 bucks and works perfectly with a free USB port.

A picture of my rig:

 

[Robin86]

Maybe it would be enough with one the back and do without the one on the bottom. Actually when I made my design I considered using one on the lower back and one on the upper back. As regards the amp, they are very similar to each other and they just work fine. The power they offer is more than enough. I'm not a technician so I can't go into details. If you have limitations with your motherboard, this tiny external audio card is just 40 bucks and works perfectly with a free USB port.

A picture of my rig:

Thank you! And a super nice setup my man!

 

[Robin86]

Maybe it would be enough with one the back and do without the one on the bottom. Actually when I made my design I considered using one on the lower back and one on the upper back. As regards the amp, they are very similar to each other and they just work fine. The power they offer is more than enough. I'm not a technician so I can't go into details. If you have limitations with your motherboard, this tiny external audio card is just 40 bucks and works perfectly with a free USB port.

A picture of my rig:

Mind me asking what seat that is btw? Looks super comfy! Is it a tight fit or big?

 

[Elaphe]

It's a Sparco Grid Q Sky, not very expensive and quite comfortable. It also has some detachable cushions which you can move or remove as you like. It's not very tight. My former Mirco seat was much narrower, specially on the area of the hips.

 

[jeffnc]

I can see possibly adding something to/near the pedals, but all the other stuff seems pretty unrealistic to me. Think about it - the only thing that actually shakes on a car is the frame. Road vibrations are transmitted through the tires, to the suspension, to the frame. Engine vibrations are transmitted through the frame only. If you feel anything in your seat, it's because it was transmitted through the frame of your car into your seat frame, and up from there. I see no reason to put anything on the back of your seat. Even if you put it on one spot on your frame, if blindfolded you won't be able to isolate that, since if your frame is tightly constructed, you will feel it all over, and vibrating through the seat.

This conversation seems overly complicated. I would just get a single Buttkicker and attach it to your frame. I ended up getting the Pro version just to be safe, but honestly I think it's too much (i.e. I have to turn it down quite a bit) so I would just get the regular version (i.e. Gamer Plus) if I were to do it again.

The Buttkicker can work with your audio out (speaker out), but it works better if you simply connect it to the USB port. The Buttkicker software package then sends all the appropriate signals to the amp through USB. This is definitely a better solution since you don't want in game menu clicks or music playing through the shaker amp.

And by the way, I think a 5 Hz vibration from a unit that inexpensive is kind of BS. There's a lot of wiggle room and marketing here, by the way. It's the same as how they fudge music stereo systems. There is no real hard cutoff. It's a smooth curve. So yes, there might technically be SOME 5 Hz vibration coming through, but to compare apples to apples you have to specify what the range is all at the same "volume". I think 10 Hz is definitely coming through with the Buttkicker, and again obviously some lower but decreasing in force smoothly below that. (The Pro version does not claim any lower frequencies, just more power.)

 

[Robin86]

I can see possibly adding something to/near the pedals, but all the other stuff seems pretty unrealistic to me. Think about it - the only thing that actually shakes on a car is the frame. Road vibrations are transmitted through the tires, to the suspension, to the frame. Engine vibrations are transmitted through the frame only. If you feel anything in your seat, it's because it was transmitted through the frame of your car into your seat frame, and up from there. I see no reason to put anything on the back of your seat. Even if you put it on one spot on your frame, if blindfolded you won't be able to isolate that, since if your frame is tightly constructed, you will feel it all over, and vibrating through the seat.

This conversation seems overly complicated. I would just get a single Buttkicker and attach it to your frame. I ended up getting the Pro version just to be safe, but honestly I think it's too much (i.e. I have to turn it down quite a bit) so I would just get the regular version (i.e. Gamer Plus) if I were to do it again.

The Buttkicker can work with your audio out (speaker out), but it works better if you simply connect it to the USB port. The Buttkicker software package then sends all the appropriate signals to the amp through USB. This is definitely a better solution since you don't want in game menu clicks or music playing through the shaker amp.

And by the way, I think a 5 Hz vibration from a unit that inexpensive is kind of BS. There's a lot of wiggle room and marketing here, by the way. It's the same as how they fudge music stereo systems. There is no real hard cutoff. It's a smooth curve. So yes, there might technically be SOME 5 Hz vibration coming through, but to compare apples to apples you have to specify what the range is all at the same "volume". I think 10 Hz is definitely coming through with the Buttkicker, and again obviously some lower but decreasing in force smoothly below that. (The Pro version does not claim any lower frequencies, just more power.)

Thanks for your input. I get what ur saying I do, but I tried a kinda monster setup once and he had 5(!!) buttkickers in total. Did it feel "real"? well no.. Was it still badass and felt supernice - yes!! lol. But yea, the buttkicker route def seems easier. And I did some research on the hz. And not many in game settings seems to send out much under like 15hz so shouldnt be a problem =)

 

[Alvaro de la Orden]

I can see possibly adding something to/near the pedals, but all the other stuff seems pretty unrealistic to me. Think about it - the only thing that actually shakes on a car is the frame. Road vibrations are transmitted through the tires, to the suspension, to the frame. Engine vibrations are transmitted through the frame only. If you feel anything in your seat, it's because it was transmitted through the frame of your car into your seat frame, and up from there. I see no reason to put anything on the back of your seat. Even if you put it on one spot on your frame, if blindfolded you won't be able to isolate that, since if your frame is tightly constructed, you will feel it all over, and vibrating through the seat.

This conversation seems overly complicated. I would just get a single Buttkicker and attach it to your frame. I ended up getting the Pro version just to be safe, but honestly I think it's too much (i.e. I have to turn it down quite a bit) so I would just get the regular version (i.e. Gamer Plus) if I were to do it again.

The Buttkicker can work with your audio out (speaker out), but it works better if you simply connect it to the USB port. The Buttkicker software package then sends all the appropriate signals to the amp through USB. This is definitely a better solution since you don't want in game menu clicks or music playing through the shaker amp.

And by the way, I think a 5 Hz vibration from a unit that inexpensive is kind of BS. There's a lot of wiggle room and marketing here, by the way. It's the same as how they fudge music stereo systems. There is no real hard cutoff. It's a smooth curve. So yes, there might technically be SOME 5 Hz vibration coming through, but to compare apples to apples you have to specify what the range is all at the same "volume". I think 10 Hz is definitely coming through with the Buttkicker, and again obviously some lower but decreasing in force smoothly below that. (The Pro version does not claim any lower frequencies, just more power.)

In all honestly sir, you are missing a lot
The idea is attaching shakers to the main points of contact between the cockpit and your own body.
FFB wheel for hands.; at the pedals for foot; at the seat for legs, ass, back, even upper back or shoulders.
As you mention, isolation is mandatory, easy and cheap to achieve with rubber inserts in the pedal and seat frame., so the vibrations are not all over the cockpit.
Also your report about how vibrations remain in the frame, I have no real experience, but it´s of my understanding , a race car is WAY to stiffer than a road car. And the driving is much extreme. Even the seat and harness are so tight in order to help the driver to read car reactions.
Seriously shakers add much inmersion. Even a common action like ACC starting the engine before a race, means the world when the shaker in my back begins trumbling and with added white noise. Kerbs and bumps. Engine load.
For other sims (I mostly play ACC), ABS rumbling is very nice to dial lock threeshold. And so on.
Give it a try, a single Buttkickers is a very limited option. Valid, yes, but limited. And with an amp tend to overheat by the way, because the lack of isolation, means you need higher volume.

Like my wife says, vibrations are never enough.