Remove brake rubber G29 recommended?

it's easy to put back if you do not like it, as long as you have some spare time

the problem though is that you will have rather a large deadzone at the end. there is a simple hack to get around this with a resistor or trim pot if you feel inclined to play:


or you could get an adapter to bypass the wheel entirely:

https://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=187
 
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I took some voltage readings to see how the G29 wheel reacts on the PS4 (https://github.com/GeekyDeaks/g29-load-cell#g29-brake-levels). As you can see, it's only 1.1v, which is less than half the 3v supply across the pot. I wouldn't expect the whole voltage range to be used for reasons of tolerance, but I strongly suspect the restricted range is purely to accommodate the rubber block.

After using the G25, do you now have a preference for feel?
 
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Feels the same until i hit the hard rubber at about 70% then there is nothing on the G25 which just feels weird.
Atleast with the G29 there is something there afterwards even if it is hard as , i find the G29 pedals are great for AC as the cars use TC a lot and is a big feature, in AMS1&2 and AC with non TC cars its less than ideal i feel but not as bad as some make out.
My lap times are almost identical to my T300 alcantara with much better pedals but im not quick so maybe quicker guys really notice the G29 brake feature.
 
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I tried both with and without the rubber block - even modifying my pedals to give the full range without. Whilst it took me a little while to adjust, I didn't really find one configuration better than the other and was quite happy with either.

I decided to go full crazy and make a loadcell mod for fun. Again took a little while to adjust and I really like it, but other than a slight improvement to consistency (which might just be down to practice anyway), I have not really noticed a huge difference in my driving.

I'd probably recommend trying not to overthink it too much and just have fun - unless tinkering with stuff is also fun :)
 
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Logitech took some interesting approach when designing g29 pedals. The problem with progressive feeling in pot based brakes is that the feeling doesn't relate to ingame brake pressure. That's were usuallu load cells kick in. So that it translates always 1:1.
So logitech has internally in the base firmware impkemwnted a different curve. If they have calibrated the pedal with a load cell then even better, because it should behave exactly as a load cell would, in the specific geometry (with the tubber installed that is). That's why it behaves different when plugged into the g29 and in another way.

So, it is advised to keep the brake like it is if connected through the g29/920 base, and also if you do a load cell convertion to have them autonomous device though one of the leo bodnar solutions (I'd use the 16bit pedal board).
 
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I used GeekyDeaks load cell 3d print design to convert my G25 pedals along with a Leobodnar USB board to convert all 3 pedals (details in the comments/problems section of the Githib) and I'm really happy wth the end result. I've not tried G29 pedals to compare but for the G25 it's a massive improvement. Previously I always struggled with the long pedal travel and needing to modulate brake levels based on the position of my foot but now I find I can really hit the pedal hard during initial braking with perhaps only an inch of travel then modulate it accurately with a reduction in pressure without really having to think about what my foot's doing.
 
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