• This Website Is Not For Sale
  1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.
Abarthy Party! (LIVE)

reliability fanatec wheels (GT2 in particular)

Discussion in 'Sim Racing Hardware' started by Tim Meuris, Feb 18, 2013.

  1. Hi,

    Thinking about buying a new wheel in the future.
    I still wonder if the current fanatec wheels are still as unreliable as the early ones, the gt2 in particular.
    Or are these stories exagerated? and how is the customer support when you do have a broken wheel?
    And how is the feeling (ffb) of the wheel? happy about it?

    Is the shifter better / worse than the one of the logitech g25/27?
  2. According to Thomas, CEO of Fanatec, the reliability is getting much better lately. He said so on GTPlanet. The problem was the new technology of the Fanatec wheels. The people who assemble the wheels are getting acquainted with this new technology and thus the wheels are getting more reliable.
    Don't kill the messenger, I'm just repeating what he said on GTP.
  3. I have the GT3 and the CSPedals. Actually this is my second GT3 as the first one was broken. CSP had also a broken loadcell. So if you ask me, they do have issues!

    But!!!They replaced my broken wheel and loadcell in a week time (very quick). They do have a good customer support, so I wouldn't worry!

    I like the feeling (ffb) of the wheel. The wheel feels and looks fantastic! I wouldn't say the same about the shifter...

    If I had the money I would go for the CSW!
    (I upgraded from a DFGT)
  4. Had a GT3RS V2 a while back, not a single problem.
    CSP´s the same. Throttle messed about a little a couple of days ago but it was simply dust near the pots i think, solved now.
    2 years or something and still going strong.
  5. three different but very useful answers
    others with fanatec experience? enlighten me...
  6. Had a disconnection problem with my GT3 V2. To fix the problem I needed to change main board of the wheel.
  7. Boby Kim

    Boby Kim
    There is no spoon...

    I was thinking about replacing my G27 for the Fanatec Clubsport base with the BMW rim. Using my G27 pedals for a while and then also buy the V2 pedals. One of the issues that made me not buy it yet was the op's concern. The second issue i have with Fanatec is that they only sell at their website. Getting a fault device means a lot of trouble...
    With those kind of purchases, i want to choose for a domestic store instead of going foreign website shopping with Paypal. I guess i wait for another year to see how Fanatec develops .
  8. hmmm,

    hadn't thought about that yet
    I also prefer buying it at a domestic store instead of a foreign website.

    That site also offers the following below for one of their wheels:
    CSW Maintenance and Repair Service
    haven't seen other wheelmanufacturers do that afaik...
    is this a sign of doubtful reliability?
  9. Boby Kim

    Boby Kim
    There is no spoon...

    Actually i have emailed Fanatec with a lot of questions. I saw some YT vids where people explained some technical beta problems. I wanted to know if these problems have been fixed. I also asked for the CWS M&R service. All problems have been fixed in the latest builds.

    Here is the reply about the M&R service

    The Maintenance and Repair Pack that we offer on our website is a special offer for people you ran out of warranty.
    If a repair is necessary and the case is covered by the warranty period we will send out shipping labels to our costumer that they are able to send in the base without extra money.
    I`ve attached the return policy for European customers.
    This policy allows you to feel the base at home and refund it if you do not feel comfortable with it.
    I hope that I was able to help you with your decision.
  10. I have the GT2 and it's been fine. It was a replacement they sent because my 911 Turbo S had developed problems. They "fixed" the Turbo S and it actually came back worse. Then Fanatec said here take this brand new in the retail box GT2 instead. And of course I said HELL YEAH.

    My Clubsport pedals have been fine but they developed the faulty load cell problem. Since they were out of warranty I had to pay for a load cell. So I ordered 2 since the shipping was ridiculous just to order one (12 dollar shipping for a 15 dollar part).

    I have a G27 wheel set and was using the pedals from that till I ordered my load cell. Put it like this, the G27 pedals were HEAVY incentive to hurry up and order the load cells. A friend owed me some money so I had him order it when I was at his house and we were drunk so he wound up getting the better of the deal. Had him order two and told him we're even.

    The G27's shifter is a TON better than Fanatec's. Don't even bother with it to be honest. Wait until the new shifter comes out from them OR if you have a G27/25 laying around you could use that shifter but....
  11. I have a GT3RS v2 with CSR-Elite Pedals, no problems with either but I haven't had them all that long...
  12. It really seems to depend how reliable they are... I've had a GT3RS which works fine since 2010 now, and had the upgrade to a V2 wheel.

    My CSW recently seemed to burnt through an engine. After the slow service of Fanatec I'm hoping to get my wheel back this monday.

    My pedals (CSP V1) are the worst I guess. The brake and clutch are spiking all over and sometimes don't even work... Perhaps I have to contact Fanatec about that too...
  13. I've had my GT3 v2 with CSR elite pedals for about half a year now and this is my experience thus far;

    Pedals have been flawless, really enjoy these!

    Wheel has lost FFB a few times, from what seems like two different reasons. Sometimes it's as if it restarts mid game, maybe from running hot but this has not happened since I updated firmware about a month ago. When this happens I have had to restart the game because it would no longer work Ingame.
    Other times in SRW I've lost FFB when I join a race or event (rarely if ever mid race/event though), and reason I think this is a separate problem is partly because I don't need to restart the game to fix it, only leave and rejoin the race or event. Also because SRW support said the error might be on their side, so take it for what it is, a minor issue that happens very rarely (for me at least).

    Lastly but not least one or both fans on my wheel has become more and more noisy over time, it reached a point of annoyance last week (wed or thur I think) where I finally contacted Fanatec via their online form late in the evening. The day after I got a response asking whether I'm comfortable with replacing the fans myself and that it wouldn't void my warranty if I did, I said yes and today UPS tried to deliver the fans to me. Quite impressed and very happy with the swift response from Fanatec!
  14. I've had my Porsche 911 GT3RS + CSP since May '09 and the wheel hasn't had a single problem.

    The pedals for which there's a new version now did require a lot of tinkering to get them just right. They have quite a few tweaking options but that fact comes with the downside that they can be very fussy so if you really don't like to use wrenches and allen keys you should look for something that requires less maintenance. Sometimes I get a little bit of input without pressing the pedal or vice versa: not being able to get 100% throttle. Usually that's after you have tinkered with them but it means you have to take them apart again to fix it, which by now I'm extremely quick at doing. Now that after a few years I know exactly how I like them, I don't have to change anything anymore and I don't have problems with them anymore either. One worry I do have is that there used to be a rubber washer on the top end of the rod that's attached to the gas pedal. It stops it from going "CLUNK" when you put the pedal to the metal, literally. But because it's a little squishy, once you press it a bit harder, your game/Windows recognizes that there is more throw so then that new max pressure becomes 100% throttle. Net result: you have to always press on the gas a little more and you can't relax your foot/leg. Me having developed knee pain (mostly from lifting my leg though when letting go of the pedal quickly) I've replaced the rubber washer with a tiny piece of the soft (felt) side of velcro. This prevents the CLUNK sound but it doesn't compress much, which solved the problem. However, one day that piece of felt is going to fall apart or get lost in tinkering, so I should probably contact Fantatec for a proper solution. The sensor beside the gas pedal is cushioned in rubber mounts which means it needs semi-regular bolting down to fix a minor problem with the input. If my gas is a few % on without pressing the pedal I know it's probably that, or there is some dirt between the base of the pedal and what it's mounted on. Before I go racing I usually check the control panel in Windows to see if the pedals are functioning perfectly.

    The point I am trying to make is if you are not prepared to do that kind of thing... the CSP may not be for you. The Wheel is well above average but not brilliant. The leather feels great, the FFB is good, but the buttons on it feel plasticky and loose. The clamp is reasonable, the wheel is quite noisy when you turn it, especially when you actively turn against the FFB.

    I do recommend both the wheel and the pedals but only if you want something more fancy than the logitech toys, it is in the right price range for you (e.g. you don't want to spend THAT much more for the next step up) and you don't mind a bit of pedal tinkering.

    As far as wear goes, I may be lucky but the setup is more durable than the mass produced stuff for sure. It's already lasted me longer and for many more racing hours than any of my logitech / thrustmaster setups did.
    • Like Like x 1
  15. I have a GT3RS v2 Wheel and CSP Pedals.
    My experience:
    The pedals are very good, I prefer them to my G25 pedals, but they took some tuning and getting used to. When I first set them up, I had too much reading on the brake pedal when they were off (not being pushed). I was able to correct them by installing a new Firmware which allowed for lots more deadzone. This firmware is not easy to find (well it wasn't a year ago) and was only recommended for use with Win XP, which I had. Not sure if the firmware is still needed now, or if it will now work with Win 7.
    I find that the pedals still show a tiny amount of reading when at the untouched position, I get around that by using a bit of deadzone in-game if the game allows it. The only nuisance is when setting up the Controller assignments in-game. Often, because of the slight reading from the brake, when you go to assign a button to a command, the brake pedal is assigned. I usually get around that by physically holding the brake pedal back hard against it's off position, so I can then assign the other commands.

    The Wheel has been slightly less reliable. All was fine, except for the Paddle shifters. These are very flimsy, and more importantly, they failed after about 8 months. I'm not the only one who has had the Paddle shifters fail. I was able to fix it by getting a techo friend replace the internal switches and put some springs to help return the paddles to the off position better. There is a thread in the forums for how to do this.

    So my experience is mixed. I'm now currently using a G25 wheel (I just prefer it) with the CSP Pedals.
  16. Fanatec CSR is another wheel you could considering if XBox compatibility is important to you.
    It feels less damped than Gt3 and has better shift paddles.