Fanatec Podium wheel - dated for 13th July 2018

Exactly the reason I got the wheel deck as opposed to the front mount.

:thumbsup:

Yeah I’m glad I got the Wheel Deck mount now too, thought the Podium would have worked with either, and possibly still could but unsupported, and I really don’t see the Wheel Deck flexing, just checked now, and who has their DD wheel even close to full power, it’s more about the FFB detail and the smooth low resistance turning than the power to bend metal.
 
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Yeah I’m glad I got the Wheel Deck mount now too, thought the Podium would have worked with either, and possibly still could but unsupported, and I really don’t see the Wheel Deck flexing, just checked now, and who has their DD wheel even close to full power, it’s more about the FFB detail and the smooth low resistance turning than the power to bend metal.
Pull down or up on the wheel, it’s not hard to make it flex a bit just resting my arms on it is enough to make it move a little.

Running the wheel at 100% doesn’t mean it takes max force to turn all the time, that’s just a poorly setup wheel or game with no dynamic range in the FFB across cars. Properly setup and in the right scenarios however it should take the full force to turn. Setting up Assetto Corsa with 100% gain and 100% in the drivers is not accurate to anything and has no meaning all it does is make it take more force to turn the wheel.

However having iRacing or rF2 setup to know the max Nm of your wheel so that it either matches the car or scales it accurately if your wheel doesn’t have enough power to match is the correct way. Problem is most games are not designed with DD wheels in mind but budget consumer wheels which is what the gain sliders are really for.
 
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I think I've pretty much decided that I won't be buying a Podium wheel this year. I'm perfectly happy with my CSWv2.5 (yeah yeah, DDW owners - I don't know what I'm missing etc) and do I really want to spend a grand minimum for some marginal gains? Mmmmm. Not really. Not right now. Time to cool my jets and see how the whole situation develops, methinks.
 
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  • Deleted member 197115

Hope lack of front mount option didn't lead to that decision.
 
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I think I've pretty much decided that I won't be buying a Podium wheel this year. I'm perfectly happy with my CSWv2.5 (yeah yeah, DDW owners - I don't know what I'm missing etc) and do I really want to spend a grand minimum for some marginal gains? Mmmmm. Not really. Not right now. Time to cool my jets and see how the whole situation develops, methinks.


yeah i'm trying to do the same thing you are except i have a csw v2 lol...i got dd fever bad right now
 
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I was never even entertaining the though of DD, but since I basically overhauled my entire system, and I already had stuff like motion and the new chassis, I decided I'd just pull the trigger while I was doing everything at once. I tend to get like that, I work up some money, don't spend much for a while and then let loose when I decide to do something significant. I already laid out a fair bit for the room that I build, but since I saved a fair bit doing some things myself / with family, I decided to just rebuild the entire rig basically.

The question whether you need DD after already owning a CSW V2 / 2.5 is probably a pretty firm no. Do you notice once you do change over even though your wheel is already pretty good? Hell yeah. If I went back to the clubsport, I'd hardly be mortified. Not as much as I would going back to a G25 from my V2. I keep saying that THAT is the bigger jump, for sure. It's like going from walking everywhere to being able to drive, and then from being able to drive, to being able to drive a nice car. Nice, but not necessary. But walking? No chance.
 
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Pull down or up on the wheel, it’s not hard to make it flex a bit just resting my arms on it is enough to make it move a little.

Running the wheel at 100% doesn’t mean it takes max force to turn all the time, that’s just a poorly setup wheel or game with no dynamic range in the FFB across cars. Properly setup and in the right scenarios however it should take the full force to turn. Setting up Assetto Corsa with 100% gain and 100% in the drivers is not accurate to anything and has no meaning all it does is make it take more force to turn the wheel.

However having iRacing or rF2 setup to know the max Nm of your wheel so that it either matches the car or scales it accurately if your wheel doesn’t have enough power to match is the correct way. Problem is most games are not designed with DD wheels in mind but budget consumer wheels which is what the gain sliders are really for.


Then you haven’t got your wheel deck or rig tighten up correctly, I can literally jump and push down on mine and it doesn’t flex, doesn’t budge at all.
 
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Then you haven’t got your wheel deck or rig tighten up correctly, I can literally jump and push down on mine and it doesn’t flex, doesn’t budge at all.
:roflmao:, yes that must be it. Oh except the fact I have purposely attached it further back so it has 4 bolts all the way along rather than just two like in their images. I’m not talking about jumping directly on the mount, it would quite comfortably take someone standing directly on it, I said pull up or down on the wheel rim.

The metal is literally twisting, aka flex because of the lever point of the wheel acting upon it which you don’t get with the front mount as the moments of force aren’t acting through the same plane and there is no lever point, plus it’s 5mm thicker, basic mechanics my friend.

Of course you can’t twist it by hand :O_o:. I’ll post up a video of it since you find it so unbelievable and won’t push up/down on your own wheel.
 
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Do we know the underside bolt pattern for the Podium wheels? I'm wondering if flipping my P1 front mount through 90° would leave enough meat for redrilling.
 
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Do we know the underside bolt pattern for the Podium wheels? I'm wondering if flipping my P1 front mount through 90° would leave enough meat for redrilling.

Once we know more about the exact underside bolt pattern fella, (or confirmation that it matches that of the CSW 2.5 etc), I'm sure a strong 'L' bracket type solution can be engineered, (with consideration for wheel mounting), which can properly support the weight of the Podium without flex and can be affixed to the existing OSW mounting locations on the front mount we have.

You have form after all! :)

Would also be interesting to know what the weight and dims are of the DD1 / DD2 are in comparison to, let's say, an OSW 130ST, which we know can be attached without any issue whatsoever, albeit directly.
 
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Once we know more about the exact underside bolt pattern fella, (or confirmation that it matches that of the CSW 2.5 etc), I'm sure a strong 'L' bracket type solution can be engineered, (with consideration for wheel mounting), which can properly support the weight of the Podium without flex and can be affixed to the existing OSW mounting locations on the front mount we have.

You have form after all! :)

Would also be interesting to know what the weight and dims are of the DD1 / DD2 are in comparison to, let's say, an OSW 130ST, which we know can be attached without any issue whatsoever, albeit directly.

Yeah, I've already got a few ideas. I think it'll be a piece of p!ss to achieve, even if the bolts line up with the big circular gap. Flipping the front mount through 90 degrees with some 10mm MDF as a bridging plate might even do the job.

Edit: not that I'm buying a Podium wheel. No siree. Uh-uh.
 
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:roflmao:, yes that must be it. Oh except the fact I have purposely attached it further back so it has 4 bolts all the way along rather than just two like in their images. I’m not talking about jumping directly on the mount, it would quite comfortably take someone standing directly on it, I said pull up or down on the wheel rim.

The metal is literally twisting, aka flex because of the lever point of the wheel acting upon it which you don’t get with the front mount as the moments of force aren’t acting through the same plane and there is no lever point, plus it’s 5mm thicker, basic mechanics my friend.

Of course you can’t twist it by hand :O_o:. I’ll post up a video of it since you find it so unbelievable and won’t push up/down on your own wheel.

Well I have three bolts either side in my wheel deck and can’t make it flex no matter what, how or where. Not saying I don’t believe you as there might be some weakness in the metal of yours or something. If you want to do a video I’d be interested in seeing it.
 
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  • Deleted member 197115

Didn't sim lab update all decks to thicker 15mm metal not long ago.
That might explain the difference in experience.
 
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