Fanatec GT2 glitch

[Ryan Hieronymus]

I'm having a frustrating problem with my GT2. Occasionally (every minute or so) My wheel/CSR pedals/and shifter freeze in position, I have no control, the FFB goes away, and then about 2 seconds later everything comes back. This is impossible to drive around and really starting to bug me because everything I do to try and fix it doesn't work. Any ideas?

 

[Bernd Graf]

I have a sort of similar problem in AC, on certain cars when there is a brief clipping in forces, I get what I call "super clip:" the wheel looses all force control and becomes very light for less than a second (different in duration than yours) and then snaps back as it was before. Not sure why mine does this.

 

[Skazz]

never experienced that effect on any wheel (tried 2 with AC). First answer would be to try switching to a different USB port, preferably one on a USB controller not full with many other devices. See if the problem is USB-related.

 

[RaceNut]

For those that don't know; If the cause is clipping, try turning down the FFB gain in-game and monitor the FFB signal by opening the pedals app in AC. You'll be able to see if/when the bar on the right turns red with anything less than peak force signals - it's clipping. Reduce the FFB gain until the bar rarely or almost never flashes red.

 

[Bernd Graf]

Unfortunately no, not a USB issue. I honestly have no idea why my wheel acts the way it does...using the standard settings in AC recommended by the devs...it seems under the highest point of forces in certain turns where loads are their maximum, the wheel goes dead and thus jerks out of my hand, only to return to normal again...

 

[posimosh]

Sounds like clipping to me also... Turn down the ffb a bit (or/and a bit more) til the drop out doesn't happen anymore.
There is one other possible cause... But I have only read about it, but, never experienced it... Apparently , in a batch of fanatec wheels that went out a while back, there was some weak soldiering joints on the far end (from you, if you are driving) of the base. During especially long or sustained ffb action, the joint overheats briefly and the wheel clocks way back til the temperature and voltage recovers (which is pretty quickly). I've read that you can test for this issue by applying minor resistance against the wheel when u turn it on and it is calibrating itself. If the issue is present, the calibration will become "chunky" (like "chunk...chunk...chunk") after about a second or so.
Anyway, both problems are pretty easy to mitigate, and don't take long to fix... Also the fixes are permanent which is good (permanently less ffb in one instance)... Post back what the problem ended up being if u don't mind... I'm curious.