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Cockpit Build / Seat & Pedal Heights?

Discussion in 'Sim Racing Hardware' started by Mr Latte, Mar 5, 2017.

  1. Mr Latte

    Mr Latte
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    As progressing with an update for my own d.i.y build (using steel/chrome tubing/clamps)
    I am working on the new front/pedal section but curious what many of you 80/20 builders or owners of popular pre-built cockpits find is ideal regards heights for the pedals compared to the seat. This seems to greatly vary for various cockpits that can be purchased

    [​IMG]

    (w.i.p)

    Pedals will be attached to these lower up-rights and will have mostly independent foot/base platforms for improved Simvibe Left/Right tactile feedback. The build is specifically being built to maximise tactile performance and will use substantial tactile/audio hardware (hence the 2 front subwoofers) with extensive isolation materials throughout.

    Appreciate any feedback and help.
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2017
  2. IRobot

    IRobot
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    The bottom of my bucket seat is 13cm higher than my pedal base. Both are fully adjustable in height and the seat is tilted back (13cm is from the back of the seat - the lowest part).
     
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  3. Emery

    Emery

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    Variance is due, in part, on whether one is seeking to emulate the feeling of a formula car or a sports racer or a GT car or a stock car or you just want to be able to get in/out easily so the rig can be used for office work, too.

    So what is your preference?
     
  4. Mr Latte

    Mr Latte
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    My preference is whats comfortable, or try something commonly found to be a good balance.
    For my own rig it I am not seeking to try and emulate a specific car type. More of a casual racer anyways.

    Style and quality is important factor of the build as is comfort. I am only 5'6" but use a good high-end seat, purchased a few years back that feels great with seat slider and recline functionality.

    Coffees n Cakes were creating a problem with an older bucket seat that gradually became tighter with the introduction of passing 40 not helping. So I wanted something more comfortable with recline option.:D

    One of these
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2017
  5. Emery

    Emery

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    LOL, when I built my rig (circa 2009), I was in my late 40s and ease of entry/exit had become higher on my list than trying to create a duplicate of a real car interior.

    The floor of my rig, where the G25 pedal base rests, is 8" (20cm) below the lowest point of the seat (where your butt lands) and that's probably as high as you'd want to mount the seat unless one is interested in mimicking a big rig truck for ETS or ATS.

    The distance to the room's floor for the seat is the same as you'd have for a dining chair. If your seat has high side bolsters, like the one you linked, then you probably want slightly lower seat height so you can easily clear the bolsters when getting in.
     
  6. Mr Latte

    Mr Latte
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    Ahh good laugh, maybe I should consider some safety hand rail for mounting and dismounting the cockpit as well as nonslip rubber. :roflmao:

    Thanks for measurements btw, I previously owned a Playseat Evo as my first rig 10 years ago which was quite low and later a Gamepod. I notice also that many peoples rigs have the wheel rim just above the seat section.

    My current d.i.y is a bit high and was a bit too far back from the wheel deck.
    However, the whole seat section is getting revised with a better and cleaner installation for the high level of tactile it will incorporate.

    Old build (shown below) utilised separate supports to help avoid L/R tactile mixing prior to reaching their destination in the seat. Later to discover with my own research that only (Suspension) based effects in Simvibe operates in stereo.

    [​IMG]

    This early configuration was adapted 5 times over a few months with different testing/positioning and installation of the tactile. Much was learned from this and some surprises also.

    The new build will be much more effective and tidier but the seat alone uses $2000 worth of the best tactile models available which I have gathered up over the years. It will set a high benchmark for tactile performance but the whole build is focused on this purpose. Comfort is important as this is used for general PC usage and gaming also.

    [​IMG]

    I luv the simpleness of the chrome tubing, all it needs is some imagination, suitable clamps and a steel tube cutter. Less adaptable than 80/20 by all means but much prettier especially with LED lighting in the evening.
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2017
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  7. Takumi69

    Takumi69

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    Here are some measurements:
    Seatheight= 16.5cm (6.5") top of the sliders with a Recaro Style on top.
    Pedals= 1.2cm (0.5") above ground and 25degree angled.
    I´m also in my late 40s and coming from desk driving (for over 10 years), this position already feels really low to me, but is pretty close to an actual car.
    Where can i get this chrome tubing? What is it normally used for?
     
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  8. Mr Latte

    Mr Latte
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    Thanks guys for some measurements, helps giving me a perspective of what may suit best.
    Tearing down the current seat configuration soon to try a few options, part of the problem is having advanced isolation to support the seat well and maintain the tactile within the seat as best possible. Also trying to locate 5 tactile units within/under the seat area needs some thought in the build.

    Seems some configurations or people with higher seats may use more angle on their pedals.
     
  9. Mr Latte

    Mr Latte
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    The chrome tubing seems more available in the UK or possibly some parts of Europe.
    It is actually used within "shopfitting supplies", as 32mm and also available in thinner 25mm. Prices have increased since Brexit and while the tubing is affordable some of the fittings/clamps can vary from £4 - £15 each depending on the type and supplier.

    Example
    My finished build certainly won't be cheap (I already owned a lot of clamps) but much of the tubing/fittings I'm using is for style/character than just structural basic requirements. In some ways, it will have KTM X-Bow type elements but taking, style cues from Rennsport and a few others. I find when in the building phase playing around with options brings new possibilities. Although boxy/boring 80/20 rectangles are banned (lol) :)

    [​IMG]
    Some old clamps to replace and again this is just ongoing phase. Wheel deck will have steel plate and seat sliders used for different rim options. Unfortunately, this is very hard to bend, especially with manual tools so the design will be very angular/stealth shape.
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2017
  10. Takumi69

    Takumi69

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    Thanks for the info. I really like the chrome look. I will consider this when building my next complete rig.
     
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  11. Jim Cole

    Jim Cole
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    I am slightly taller than you, and have issues with my ankles if the pedals try and make my feet move past 90 degrees towards my body so I have specific requirements when it comes to pedal and seat placement. That being said, seat, pedals and wheel all need to be considered as a whole in the design.

    First you have to feel comfortable with how far your feet are from the pedals regardless of height difference. Elevation shouldn't make that much difference as long as you can sit down and stand back up in the rig, the seat height will be ok. The pedals just need to be comfortable enough to be able to be used for longer periods of time for racing. You also need to make sure that you can go from feet off to full depression without having to change your body location in the seat to achieve full throttle or brake. Personal preference or design aesthetics apply here as well.

    The wheel needs to be mounted in such a way that while racing you arms are relaxed and the wheel doesn't interfere with your ability to drive the cars. (most rigs fall short for me in this area) One other thing to consider is the wheel angle in relation to you. If you notice, different cars have the wheel at a slightly different angle. The face of the wheel is never perpendicular to the floor but the top will always be further from you than the bottom. You need to decide what angle will allow you to turn the wheel the entire rotation range without causing issues either with comfort or with hitting things with your hands. As a rule of thumb, there should be at least an inch gap between the lowest part of the wheel and the top of your legs. More room might be required if you have a wheel without a quick disconnect for the rim. Make sure you can sit and stand up without having issues while the wheel is in place if you don't have the quick disconnect.
     
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