Why do I struggle so badly to keep RWD cars on the road compared to...

Stefan Mizzi · May 5, 2015

This is not a thread to compare sim racing games, but I merely would like to know why I struggle so much to keep a RWD car in rF2 on the road compared to other sims.....

As an example, take AC, RE3, GSCE and pCars.....I can drive any RWD car in these 4 and go close to the limit and yet, somehow, I still keep the car on track.

I jump on rF2 RDW and I cant even make 1 lap without spinning. No, the track is not green but fully rubbered.

Maybe rF2 is into another league of its own, hard core stuff and I can't handle it....or is there some other freken reason that I am missing?

Yesterday, I had one of the most amazing races in RE3 with the Chevrolet Corvette Z06.R GT3...oh boy that was fun and I managed to keep with the fast ones.....

I would not be able to do 1 lap in rF2 with a similar car

Stefan Mizzi · May 7, 2015

Hmmmm...maybe I'm setting the FFB all wrong then! Mat, I just did a search and what you said and apparently by setting very strong FFB you loose out on many important feedbacks in the wheel.

Damn, I could be doing this all wrong. I'll do some more research and experiment with FFB to check if I see any differences.

I agree with that Emery

David O'Reilly · May 7, 2015

I never experienced the Logitech personally. As an Xbox user my ebtry to quality wheels was the Fanatec CSR (belt drive). It was the only choice if you wanted to move eventually to PC as it was compatible with all platforms.

Recently I upgraded to Fanatec CSWV2 and formula rim. RF2 felt like a different sim. The speed and accuracy of feedback and the lack of "noise" the other stuff that can come through a wheel meant that I am correcting slides before I see them on screen. First time I drove it I thought there nothing going on, but it was just cleaner-clearer. The rim itself feels like it could go on a real life formula car. But there is ceratinly a law of diminishing returns. A 25% increase in performace requires a 200% increase in budget.

I think perhaps I took your "Toy" remark to be more perjorative than you intended. If it was to mean fast, good value but toy like in feel" then fair enough.

Increase in camber will make a big difference to FFB feel.
It creates a mutiplier from wheel forces to steering rack forces.

David O'Reilly · May 7, 2015

Stefan Mizzi said:
Hmmmm...maybe I'm setting the FFB all wrong then! Mat, I just did a search and what you said and apparently by setting very strong FFB you loose out on many important feedbacks in the wheel.

Damn, I could be doing this all wrong. I'll do some more research and experiment with FFB to check if I see any differences.

I agree with that Emery

There is a tool to show if you are clipping.

Stefan Mizzi · May 7, 2015

Thanks David

...I will search for it

Ho3n3r · May 7, 2015

Last year I started with a pedal sensitivity of 30% because rf2's throttle does seem overly sensitive. Eventually I got used to it and I'm back on 100% again, but it takes a while to get used to.

David O'Reilly · May 7, 2015

@Stefan Mizzi
Dewalds tip above is a good one. I forgot about that. It will make early (partial) throttle inputs lower/softer.

Frederic Schornstein · May 7, 2015

Ho3n3r said:
Last year I started with a pedal sensitivity of 30% because rf2's throttle does seem overly sensitive. Eventually I got used to it and I'm back on 100% again, but it takes a while to get used to.

I guess that was mainly for the Formula cars? With GTs and Touring cars the throttle sensitivity was never an issue for me, but in the F1 cars it was at first.

Ho3n3r · May 7, 2015

Frederic Schornstein said:
I guess that was mainly for the Formula cars? With GTs and Touring cars the throttle sensitivity was never an issue for me, but in the F1 cars it was at first.

Yes. I only play F1 style cars mate. Try it with the FSR mod.

Frederic Schornstein · May 7, 2015

Ho3n3r said:
Yes. I only play F1 style cars mate. Try it with the FSR mod.

Yeah, I drove the Formula Master when it was released first and it had a tire bug the temps were below 50°C most of the time. That thing was undriveable after the tire fix it was a lot easier

Ho3n3r · May 7, 2015

Frederic Schornstein said:
Yeah, I drove the Formula Master when it was released first and it had a tire bug the temps were below 50°C most of the time. That thing was undriveable after the tire fix it was a lot easier

Damn I never had that issue... must have felt horrible. Ice skating, anyone?

Frederic Schornstein · May 7, 2015

Yeah, that was the very first version. You couldn't put any power down whatsover and massive lockups as you drove around with pretty much cold tires all the time. The very first version of the old FR 3.5 had a similar issue.

Stefan Mizzi · May 7, 2015

I honestly cannot drive the last FR3.5 for a couple of corners without spinning....and thats driving slowly too....

So, I'm really baffled right now...

David O'Reilly · May 7, 2015

Stefan Mizzi said:
I honestly cannot drive the last FR3.5 for a couple of corners without spinning....and thats driving slowly too.... So, I'm really baffled right now...

There is a set up or two in this folder which are OK for the FR 3.5. Give that a try., take it easy on your outlap and get some temps. Ensure you have aero set to High in the tuning Menu. If racing AI click on Force setup too this makes them use your aero choice.
Also!!!!!! are you getting some rubber down first????
Real road is critcal. Take say 5 AI and you. Set RR acceleration to X15 and do 10 laps. Or go and have a coffee and set accelerate time. This will put some rubber down. A green track is very slippery. Once you have a nice RR, save it.
When you set up a session later, provided you change a weather parameter you will get the option to use a saved RR.
If you are still having oversteer issues increase diff lock on power side a little as well as preload.

http://www.racedepartment.com/threa...i-camaro-bes-911-gt3-1992-open-wheeler.92120/

Mat Holloway · May 7, 2015

Stefan Mizzi said:
I honestly cannot drive the last FR3.5 for a couple of corners without spinning....and thats driving slowly too.... So, I'm really baffled right now...

^David's on the money, but any chance you could record a lap or two?

Mat Holloway · May 7, 2015

David O'Reilly said:
I think perhaps I took your "Toy" remark to be more perjorative than you intended. If it was to mean fast, good value but toy like in feel" then fair enough.

Increase in camber will make a big difference to FFB feel.
It creates a mutiplier from wheel forces to steering rack forces.

Absolutely, I tend to overthink my sentences in an attempt to make them clear but sometimes they come across... less flowery than I'd like.

You mean caster don't you?

Stefan Mizzi · May 8, 2015

OK, I did some tests yesterday with the F3.5 with David's set and also a new FFB profile given to me by someone. And I could race AI now

Still at the back of the pack with 95% so I was slow, but at least I kept it on track.

Though I noticed that I could not feel any feedback in the wheel when going on the kurbs, brake hard or skid sideways..is that normal?

David O'Reilly · May 8, 2015

Mat Holloway said:
Absolutely, I tend to overthink my sentences in an attempt to make them clear but sometimes they come across... less flowery than I'd like.

You mean caster don't you?

Yes indeed I did mean caster, good pick-up there.

Stefan Mizzi said:
OK, I did some tests yesterday with the F3.5 with David's set and also a new FFB profile given to me by someone. And I could race AI now Still at the back of the pack with 95% so I was slow, but at least I kept it on track.

Though I noticed that I could not feel any feedback in the wheel when going on the kurbs, brake hard or skid sideways..is that normal?

In your player settings there is a line where you can set the rumble effects of the kerb, the severity and also even the wave type. So that needs tweaking in that profile you were given. With a G25/27 you will need them fairly low or the plastic gears will rattle too much. In my wheel they are pretty high (poss too high as it nearly shakes out of my hands)
With good settings you should also be able to feel the grip let go. I will post my controller settings in a moment in case that helps. You may need to find and lower the "wheel maximum torque" figure. Its in there somewhere with an explanation in the json file.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/isg1xvszb3ev4j3/CSWV2.JSON?dl=0

Mat Holloway · May 8, 2015

Braking hard or skidding sideways should provide tension at least however the wheel will go light once traction is lost. The curbs though, 100% you should feel those. My G27 used to rattle the windows

In the Logitech profiler, I had set overall to 100 and everything else off(or 0)
900 degrees
enable centre spring and allow game to adjust settings.
In game, pretty sure everything was default, use vehicle set rotation and drop the multi from 75-90. Smoothing was off as that introduced a numbness I couldn't handle.

Stefan Mizzi · May 8, 2015

Very strange indeed...I have tried all suggestions but I totally cannot feel anything when I hit a curb, go offtrack or hit anything...no reaction, rumble or force on the wheel. Wheel though does not feel light, feels ok as usual..just no feedback coming in when something happens....

Not sure what else I can try

Mat Holloway · May 9, 2015

Ok, there may be several reasons. Are we talking about an ISI car and track?

If so, I'd recommend installing the lite build to another location on your drive and test with the new install. Don't copy any of your ini or json files over.

If the Logitech profiler is set as I mentioned then either a setting you have applied in player.json is interfering or the controller file you have set up may be the issue.

I've done a quick search for the issue, and I can only find posts where people want to reduce the effect.