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weird constant vibration/current feeling in sw20 v3

I've been dealing with a strange problem regarding my small mige motor and i was hoping someone may have some idea on what is going on.
The problem is that whenever FFB is turned on / power goes to the motor, there's this weird high frequency vibration feeling, as if you were putting your hand on a motor that is running or something like that. It's not FFB from the game, it happens even if the car is parked and the engine turned off, and it happens in all simulators.
Sim-plicity sent me a test unit to compare to, and the exact same thing happened on that. So it seems like it may be something in my environment that is causing it? Could it be a problem in grounding or something like that?
Any advice is appreciated
 
Did they send you a motor, a controller or a complete setup?
A complete setup except for power cable. But i tried with another power cable i had lying around and it didn't change a thing. The only thing that seems to effect the problem is the bandwidth setting in the software. The higher the setting is, the more intense the feeling is.
 
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A complete setup except for power cable. But i tried with another power cable i had lying around and it didn't change a thing. The only thing that seems to effect the problem is the bandwidth setting in the software. The higher the setting is, the more intense the feeling is.
Hmmm....

That suggests something about your setup. Computer, USB cable, etc. How long is your USB cable?

I assume you verified that both connections to the motor are good and tight. These screw type (aircraft style) connectors can be kinda sensitive to incomplete tightening. I work in aerospace... We usually wiggle and push while tightening the bayonette.
 
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Hello i replied to you in my topic where you asked read that first then come here i made pictures how i made grounding for wheel, maybe this will help.
But note again i too have small noise and my issue was ffb resets.
here pictures how i made grounding (sorry for bad quality my temporary phone)
but read my reply in my topic to understand what i mean

Hello,
do you use any buttonbox/buttonplate with paddles for wheel?

I noticed for my wheel when i mounted buttonplate that sound i dont remember if it apperaed or worsened (i dont remember if it was present before mounting buttonplate)
but for sure i can tell after mounting buttonplate my wheel started to reset itself mid race and cutting off FFB completely and i must restart game to have it back. That often happened after 20-30 mins of racing ffb was just cut off and in wheel setting telemetry tab i saw FFB RESET: 1
i contacted simplicity too but they didnt helped me, they told me to look them site troubleshooting page.
so i found resolve myself. at granite devices or simucube forums i think it was tutorial how to make simple grounding for wheel.
i dont know if it will help with your issue but for me it helped with ffb resets. Note that i myself also feel small noise at mode 9 but i use it cause i kinda like that little noise makes me thing its steering shaft noise. so i stil use mode 9.

My resolve was to buy copper cable at electrical shop, copper cable with rubber braid like that:
asdasdasdadsasdasd.JPG

split cable into 3 pieces
1 piece : connect one end to your motor bolt, another end to your rig bolt
2 piece : one end from your rig bolt, enother end to controller box bolt
3 piece : one end from your controller box bolt, another end to your PC case bolt close to PSU

i dint believed that will work but somehow it did resolved my resets.

this is page i found how to ground (ctrl+F: grounding)




Project BruteForce2 - IONI-based DIY DD FFB Wheel (Extensive worklog)


GENERAL INFO Please do not copy any of my work to other web-sites without prior approval and give credit where it is due. Hello Guys, After a rather short wait, here is the new Bruteforce2 project log, based on the newly released IONI Drive, by Granite Devices. This log will be a...

forum.virtualracing.org
forum.virtualracing.org




but my grounding is much simplier than that this guy made, i can post you pictures if you want
but note it didnt helped with noise but i think it may make it less noisy. at the end my resets was i think from electric noise thing.
 
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so here how make simple grounding

i numbered cables into 1 , 2, 3
1 cable goes to motor bolt as pictured, other end goes to motor mounting to my rig
Photo0548.jpg
Photo0549.jpg

2 cable goes from motor mounting (pictures above) to controller box bolt where fan is, just wrap it around bolt
Photo0550.jpg

3 cable goes from controller box other side, just wrap it around bolt,

Photo0551.jpg

and it goes to PC case and is wrapped around bolt holding PSU
Photo0552.jpg


these resolved my issue with usb resets (ffb disabling mid races)

but maybe it makes less electric noise too, as i think my usb resets was due to electric noise (?)
 
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Hmmm....

That suggests something about your setup. Computer, USB cable, etc. How long is your USB cable?

I assume you verified that both connections to the motor are good and tight. These screw type (aircraft style) connectors can be kinda sensitive to incomplete tightening. I work in aerospace... We usually wiggle and push while tightening the bayonette.
The USB cable is the 2 meter one that comes with the kit. I just tried to retighten the motor and encoder cables using the push method you described and it didn't help sadly.

Also i forgot to mention that the only thing i've found to effect the problem is the "bandwidth" setting. The higher the setting is, the more intense the fuzzy noise feels and vice versa
 
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so here how make simple grounding

i numbered cables into 1 , 2, 3
1 cable goes to motor bolt as pictured, other end goes to motor mounting to my rig
View attachment 506206
View attachment 506207

2 cable goes from motor mounting (pictures above) to controller box bolt where fan is, just wrap it around bolt
View attachment 506208

3 cable goes from controller box other side, just wrap it around bolt,

View attachment 506209

and it goes to PC case and is wrapped around bolt holding PSU
View attachment 506210


these resolved my issue with usb resets (ffb disabling mid races)

but maybe it makes less electric noise too, as i think my usb resets was due to electric noise (?)
I haven't experienced usb resets, but it is definitely worth trying to ground the system. Those pictures are quite helpful, thanks.

Edit:
Nevermind, i am actually getting some USB resets, although i haven't experienced a loss of FFB. And yes, i am using a wheel with button box on it.

In terms of grounding, you just wrapped the copper wire around the bolts and looped it around the wire itself, you didn't use one of those grounding cables with the "rings" at the end? like this i mean
1632930732415.png

"Note that i myself also feel small noise at mode 9 but i use it cause i kinda like that little noise makes me thing its steering shaft noise. so i stil use mode 9."
Yeah honestly having a little vibration in the steering shaft isn't unrealistic, problem is that on mine it's not a little, like i said it's as if you put your hand on some sort of machine that's running and you're feeling the high frequency vibrations. And the higher the "bandwidth" setting i'm using the worse it gets
 
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I haven't experienced usb resets, but it is definitely worth trying to ground the system. Those pictures are quite helpful, thanks.

Edit:
Nevermind, i am actually getting some USB resets, although i haven't experienced a loss of FFB. And yes, i am using a wheel with button box on it.

In terms of grounding, you just wrapped the copper wire around the bolts and looped it around the wire itself, you didn't use one of those grounding cables with the "rings" at the end? like this i mean
View attachment 506251
"Note that i myself also feel small noise at mode 9 but i use it cause i kinda like that little noise makes me thing its steering shaft noise. so i stil use mode 9."
Yeah honestly having a little vibration in the steering shaft isn't unrealistic, problem is that on mine it's not a little, like i said it's as if you put your hand on some sort of machine that's running and you're feeling the high frequency vibrations. And the higher the "bandwidth" setting i'm using the worse it gets
i use banwidth at 1.0 (highest level)
and mode at 9 (highest level)
well you tell you got usb restes but no ffb loss? i had ffb loss every time i get usb resets and i must quit and enter sim again to have ffb back. with my grounding i posted no more usb reset and no ffb loss im using my grounding for almost year now. i managed to solve that issue so quick:
1. about may-june 2020 my wheel came and i used no buttonplate on it for 2 weeks, no usb resets and no ffb loss (but i played less as i had no paddles then)
2. after 2 weeks my buttonplate came and it started to loss ffb and usb resets
3. after 1-2 weeks of playing and loosing ffb i made grounding, no problems since then

so maybe it will help.
i also read someting about electric noise and they tell grounding should be done.

cables you post in picture would be even better than mine
yes i just cut cable, made a loop and wire it around bolts (i mean i unscrew bolt, make wire it around, then screw bolt again to fit it tight)

BUT note that mine rig (i mean that thing you keep your wheel mounted on) may be different than yours , so grounding maybe must be done differently.. but giving it a try i suggest
tell me if that helps
 
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I use max bandwidth, and mode 0. I don't have any symptoms as described by the OP. I don't have a separate ground strap, but my power cable does have a proper path to ground.

I have my controller USB cable on a 4 port USB3.0 (powered-hub). This is connected to a dedicated USB3.0 PCIe card in my PC. My VR headset is connected to the same USB hub. USB devices:

1. VR Headset
2. External button box.
3. Sw20v3.
4. Pedals.

I do not have any usb resets....my VR headset would go dark (and has) when any USB resets occur.

My wheel is similated smooth leather (not alcantara).
 
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