I know this has been mentioned a lot since the demo, but I thought it might be a good idea to make a proper thread on it, as I'm having terrible trouble with it. I started a career with HRT and am at Australia. I've tried all sorts of combinations to get rid of it and it's not happening. Some of you may be getting the same feeling, but the car turns in to an extent and then makes that skid noise and just goes straight. I've tried a rear wing of 1 and a front wing at 10, spring settings of 7-8, 8-8, 10-8 or 11-11, roll bar settings of 1-10, 5-10 and 7-10. Nothing seems to work. I've seen threads at CM saying to turn in gently, but I do that and just go wide anyway. I use a Madcatz wireless wheel incase anyone wants to know. How are you guys coping with it and has anyone found a solution?
Do your wheel have FFB? Without FFB you won't feel the moment when front tires are losing grip. It's very progressive, you can almost predict that moment. I can only suggest to take corner slower and brake earlier.
It's not the setup it's your driving. Just try to be smoother with turning the wheel. Slow and smooth. If you turn in like you did it in F1 2011 the car just goes straight forward.
That's right, if you learn to drive the cars it's pretty good. I hated it the first few minutes but now I have no understeer or anything els.
I'm finding i need to pay attention more to Turn in points than i did in F1 2011. In the last version if you turned in too early you could correct easily, same if you turned in too late. But with this version I find if i miss the Turn in point and haven't slowed the car down enough there is no correcting the mistake. In F1 2011 i rarely had turn in points picked out, but in F1 2012 it feels like it's really important
Maybe there is limit but we're far from it Who's limit? I believe everybody have their limits but it's not the same limit
I guessed people would say turn in gently, I've tried it to some extent and not only do I feel stupid, but I tend to go wide and miss the apex because the turn in angle is not enough when I approach mid corner. Would altering the steering saturation on the wheel make a difference? if it's more sensitive to my movements, would increasing the saturation allow me to turn in more gently, or is the opposite the case? I have no FFB.
What settings are you using now? I'm using 3%, 5% and 50%(maybe 55%) 0 0 0 0 EDIT - Tom posted this in another thread the other day... maybe it'll help you Steering Deadzone The percent of rotation where steering is ignored. The higher this value the more you can more your wheel without it moving your car. Steering Saturation How quickly your wheel responds to your movements. Steering Linearity The amount of turn of your wheel compared to the amount of wheel turn in game. 100% is a 1:1 mapping. Throttle Deadzone The percent of throttle that is ignored. The higher this value the more you can press on the throttle pedal without applying throttle in game. Throttle Saturation The sensitivity of the throttle pedal. Set to a lower value to reduce sensitivity. Helpful if you like to push your throttle down a long way when exiting corners, as a lower sensitivity will reduce wheelspin. Brake Deadzone The percent of brake that is ignored. The higher this value the more you can press on the brake pedal without applying the brake in game. Brake Saturation The sensitivity of the brake pedal. Set to a lower value to reduce sensitivity. Helpful if you're applying too much brake and frequently locking.
I think my steering saturation is 10% and the linearity is around 30% off the top of my head. I tried the linearity at 50 and 75 but it feels a bit odd for me. I saw the post from Tom a couple of days ago, it's especially useful now that CM have taken out the descriptions of what each setting is.
Im not liking the under steer either. I play on an Xbox 360 controller on my PC. The under steer goes against my neurology of car handling and i mess up braking which also seems weaker than 2011. I am having a hard time adjusting to this game at the moment as i am clocking 1.31s at best in the Torro Rosso on Melbourne.
The game does have a lot of understeer, specially when you try to brake while steering the car, you have to be very smooth and "feathery" on the brakes, when you accomplish that it diminishes understeer considerably, as you are keeping the front loaded. An setup geared for oversteer ,and slight rear bias on brakes, might help as well. Take full advantage of the fact that the car never oversteers on entry and rarely on exit
I think zero is 1:1 (I think it was 100 in F1 2010 but they changed it in '11). I've got 300° (so my wheel corresponds to the in game one) and every setting in the game set to zero.
I'm in the mid 1.34's in a HRT and propping up the rest of the grid, I feel as though I have to coast through the corners and then make up the time on the straights at the moment. It's the only gripe I have about the game, the rest I like.
To elaborate on what leo said, get all your braking done in a straight line before the corner if you're using front bias, this way you can take the corner faster because you have more front grip. also be more accurate with turn in and make sure you open up the corner as much as possible. Lines are far more important in 2012 than they were in 2011, which is an awesome thing. If needed turn on the dynamic racing line and see if that helps, try to stick to the suggested line through the corner. If you feel like you're going to slow and have awful understeer I can almost guarantee you're turning the wheels too much.
I found a little way to overcome the under steer on my DFGT. Simply enable centre springing and push it up to 20%
I had massive problems when I first started this game, because the handling is just so different. In F1 2011, I was a notorious late apexer (I'd square off the corner most of the time). I'd increase brake pressure, turn in, almost certainly cause a bit of slide (2011 inherent off throttle oversteer bias, where the front wheels stayed locked to the ground), and then feather the throttle until the car settled, then progressively feed power. In F1 2012, it's almost like doing the exact opposite. E.g. turn 3 in Melbourne. 1. I had to learn to take a much more 'rounded' entry and exit to the corner. 2. Brake HARD (as in, full lock) at first, then maybe 20% brake until you reach mid corner (YES, you CAN trail brake this way) 3. You can generally give it way more power in mid corner than you could in F1 2011 (unless you unbalanced the car by hitting the kerb, but even then, its a lot more forgiving), but still not usually the full power. If you've dialled your car for oversteer, you will get SOME on throttle oversteer to help with turn in, but if you overdo it, you'll generally get snap, terminal understeer. 4. It is POSSIBLE to save it, if you stuff it up. I out braked myself coming into Melb turn 3 and was going wide. I hadn't locked up, just done it too late and missed the apex, and was pointed at the grass. I kept my foot on the brake a little (maybe 20%) turned in, and gave it a little power. That's kind of the only way I know to do a burnout style turn recovery that kinda works. I honestly don't know if I prefer 2011 or 2012's handling characteristics. I do believe that 2011 was more challenging overall (because high speed corners could be very frightening), but I do think that F1 2012 (with a FFB wheel at least) tends to give you more feedback so you can 'feel' your way around better once you know what to look for. my 2c
