F1 2010 TT Korea Nightmare cant make first corner

F1 2010 The Game (Codemasters)
Ok people having a issue here.

Ive been trying for days to complete a lap of Korea, and just fail on either the first corner or the second. I have managed to put a time up but its pretty slow.
I loaded Bortz's ghost for a reference on the corners, hitting the apex and breaking ect but cannot for the life of me get round the first corner and rarely make the second.

I understand Bortz, freddy, Koas and Herc are all better drivers than most of us, but the machanics of the game should be the same. Ive loaded Bortz and Victors set ups, even tried the stupid George blokes and i just cant seem to get round the corner. I seem to understeer and cannot get on the throttle. Ive tried being gentle, tried braking way infront of the markers ive even tried wearing my lucky bra.........

Just have a look and tell me what im doing wrong....:confused:

G27 wheel, No assists



Being feeling really negative about this game over the last 3 days and think i might just uninstall and pack my Pc up and just ship it, not fly it when i move to England in 8 days :cloudy:
 
Practise the turn a bit slower to get the angle of turn more correct, then pick up speed when you're used to it. Keep a bit further to the right towards the kerb as it seems you're not quite using enough track width before turning into the apex and therefore going wide. About 130 meters is where you need to start braking.

I would also turn the full racing line back on and learn the turning with that, staying exactly with it and at a slower pace to start. Then when you're ready, turn it off again.
 
Where is it on Hockerz that you are losing that 1sec?

Have you made a time at Korea yet? Ive not TT'd it (or done much racing there) so I may have a crack at your ghost.

But, im actually enjoying the Malaysia weekly TT at the moment, im into the 1:30's which is about 3secs away from the big boys this week. I was about 30mins behind them last week at Spa last week!
 
Where is it on Hockerz that you are losing that 1sec?

Have you made a time at Korea yet? Ive not TT'd it (or done much racing there) so I may have a crack at your ghost.

But, im actually enjoying the Malaysia weekly TT at the moment, im into the 1:30's which is about 3secs away from the big boys this week. I was about 30mins behind them last week at Spa last week!


Not sure mate, you ghost is just faster on the strights and i cant keep the car on the track........................

Ill have a look at Malaysia and see what i can do.
 
I can tell you now Chris, you take that corner abit to fast.


seems to work for the other 299 people above me, and look at the ghost, it screams away. just how the hell does it do it ?

I was thinking is it my crap PC, 2x 480hd gpu, 6g 2000mhz corsiar dominater, i7 920 @ 3.8, ssd drives in raid blah blagh blblblblbahah

I have tried that corner for 2 days and cannot get it, and the next and the others.
 
seems to work for the other 299 people above me, and look at the ghost, it screams away. just how the hell does it do it ?

Yep, I've got the same issue with 1 & 2 at Korea... If I try to follow the ghost of a top TT driver, it just flies through 1 and loops into 2, whereas if I try that on the same line and speed, I get pitched off the track and the lap is invalidated... Must be cause I'm driving a Ferrari and not a McLaren...
 
I was thinking is it my crap PC

You are understeering like a mad man and if car setup can not solve your understeering issues you really only have a couple of options left (neither of which will make you alien fast). Move your braking point back and/or try modifying your turn in point.

It's probably not your PC, but it could be your wheel/brake controller? Not all devices are created equal. I know when I watch Steve Stoops "Career on Expert" videos he calming says things like "and brake at the 80 meter mark" and if I try to brake at the 80 meter mark on my computer I don't slow down enough by the turn in point. It's not the car setup since I am using the same setup he has in his video. But it may be related to my wheel/brake controller (I have the G25 which is an awesome wheel, but I get zero feedback from my brake pedals). I have no other option but to move my brake point a little further back.

Oh and take what I say with a grain of salt. LOL I have yet to drive at Korea. I just finished my Japanese GP last night so in the coming days or weeks when I get around to the Korean GP, I will get to experience the joys of this turn. But one thing that we do in these games that we would never dream of doing in real life is trying to drive at our limits straight off the bat. In real life you would never approach this turn balls to the walls let's see how fast I can take it without first taking it slower and slowly building up to it. It's easy to push your limits in these games when there are no physical and financial consequences.
 
I have a few questions about who's setup your using if its mine as far as I can remember im breaking just before the 100 board. I also noticed your powering on a little too early causing understeer and then obviously the grass (my setup is very marginal on getting it right and dipping a wheel onto the grass)
 
Here's some further advice for chris. If you're finding it hard to turn in properly, go down to 1st gear. I think I did, and also, I pretty much did 1st gear at the end of turn 3. My strategy for driving yeongam that I posted elsewhere recently is below.

Current laptime achieved in Mclaren with Logitech DFGT wheel/manual gears: 1:33.658




Setup courtesy of GoldenBortz. :pray:

However, I changed brakes to medium pressure and large discs brake size, which I find comfortable to use.

Aerodynamics

Front Wing Angle: 1
Rear Wing Angle: 1

Braking

Balance: F 52% - R 48%
Pressure: High
Brake Size: Small

Balance

Ballast Distribution: F 70% - R 30%
Front Anti-roll Bar: 11
Rear Anti-roll Bar: 11

Suspension

Front Ride Height: 1
Rear Ride Height: 1
Front Spring Stiffness: 11
Rear Spring Stiffness: 11

Gearbox

Gear 1: 145 kph / 90 mph
Gear 2: 179 kph / 111 mph
Gear 3: 211 kph / 131 mph
Gear 4: 244 kph / 152 mph
Gear 5: 280 kph / 174 mph
Gear 6: 316 kph / 196 mph
Gear 7: 365 kph / 227 mph

Engine

Throttle map: Fast
Fuel: n/a

Alignment

Camber front: -1.50
Camber rear: -3.00
Toe front: 0.05
Toe rear: 0.35

260px-Korea_international_circuit_v2.svg.png


STRATEGY


Here's my strategy on how to drive Yeongam. This is just my way remember. Others with faster laptimes will no doubt do certain things differently. Hope it helps though! :)



TURN 1, soon as you go under the second yellow 'DHL' bridge, start braking pretty early, I would say just after it turns red around the 130m mark. You can get away braking a tad later but you may find yourself going wide and invalidating as you turn left into turn 1, because the car will touch the grass on the other side. Avoid touching the apex if you can as it can spin your car.

The following apex at TURN 2 is ok to ride over some of it though, just like the race line shows.

Long stretch leading to TURN 3, you can start getting towards the very left of the track around halfway or even earlier. Start braking from 7th to *2nd (*I always do better from 7th right down to 1st tbh, the car turns easier in 1st, but most videos show drivers going to 2nd only) at a little way after the line turns red as you approach the second blue 'Allianze' lookout box to your left, around 170m. Your mileage may vary depending on which brakes you use. Earlier braking is better for me since turning to the right at the end would often go wide onto the grass if I braked later. You need to absolutely avoid any touching of the apex curb to your right of turn 3 as you turn in, it's an almost guaranteed spin otherwise. :) The braking into turn 3 and getting the fastest exit is crucial for the best time for the rest of the lap, so it's worth practising this section a lot.


On to TURN 4, halfway down get over to the very right, you can stay in 6th or go to 7th very briefly and start braking down to 2nd or 1st around the 130m mark or just as you see the 5 slanted white panels on your left. Zigzag section coming up here. Start turning in to the left as you get down to 2nd gear just before coming off the brake pedal as you need to keep it tight here. You now need to use the outer edges of the track for the short tight turns. Out to the far left from turn 4, quick dab of brake to turn in tight to the right at TURN 5, then out to the right edge again but very quickly (or you'll go wide before you know it) turn in tight left for TURN 6.

Onto TURNS 7 & 8 .This bit's pretty easy, it's a sweeping right then left hander in 6th gear. Just keep it smooth and flowing here following the outer curves from right to left.

TURN 9. From turn 8, there's two ways to take turn 9. Either brake down two gears to 4th, or go down to 4th without braking. I do it both ways. Without braking you have to time it right so that you can throw the car around into turn 9 but without going too wide. It's risky as you can invalidate your lap but with practise it becomes quite easy. It's a great way to play catchup if your ghost is in front of you.

TURN 10 Now it gets hard. :p After turn 9, down quickly to 2nd gear, use the left outer edge to maximise your next right hand turn in, and quickly round to the right into turn 10.

TURN 11: THE PARABOLICA From turn 10, get over to the right quite soon and you will now be throwing the car into turn 11, a left counter clockwise but very short sweeping parabolica. You must be careful here or you'll go wide on the right of the parabolica and invalidate. From turn 10 my gears go from 2nd to 3rd to 4th and very briefly 5th, then quickly down to 4th and then 3rd again once in the parabolica. Getting the line right here is a bit of a knack. I couldn't get it for ages.

TURN 12. So then towards the end of the parabolica you have to quickly steer hard right to negotiate the right hand turn 12. The whole parabolica into turn 12 is like an 'S' shape I suppose.

Ok, these last few turnings towards the home straight are nasty, nasty, nasty! It's all very narrow from here, so it's too easy to spin the car, hit the apex kerbs, or touch the grass and invalidate.

TURN 13, get to the far right in order to be able to turn in very tight to the left towards the next right hand which is..

..TURN 14 Easy to go wide here from turn 13, keep it tight close to the left apex kerb. Can stay in 4th gear or even 5th if you keep it tight enough. Now move the car far left towards the white wall to maximise the right hand turn in at turn 14. Quickly down to 2nd gear here but can stay in 3rd also. Again, careful of not going wide onto grass on left.

TURN 15. From turn 14 to turn 15, move car quickly to far right to maximise left turn in to turn 15. Between turn 14 and 15 is a very short distance, so be careful to start going down to 2nd gear just a few seconds after you leave turn 14. Now be careful here, I've invalidated my laps or spun the car more times at turn 15 than anywhere else, it's very narrow, gotta keep it really precise, tight and smooth.

TURN 16 Once you're through 15, start moving up gears but take the left turn 16 carefully, try not to bump into the apex kerb, it'll undoubtedly spin you. I've also lost whole laps at turn 16 many times, very frustrating. Sometimes though I've gone over the apex kerbs at turns 13 and 15 and gotten away with it.

Nearly there!

TURN 17 From here, hug the wall on your right as tight as you can as it curves round to the right, you should be in about 5th gear and moving up now towards 7th.
Careful you don't hit the wall, I've done that a few times too, lol.

TURN 18 Heading into the start/finish line, skim over or around the left side apex kerb.

Now, take your all the way home!
 
It's probably not your PC, but it could be your wheel/brake controller? Not all devices are created equal. I know when I watch Steve Stoops "Career on Expert" videos he calming says things like "and brake at the 80 meter mark" and if I try to brake at the 80 meter mark on my computer I don't slow down enough by the turn in point. It's not the car setup since I am using the same setup he has in his video. But it may be related to my wheel/brake controller (I have the G25 which is an awesome wheel, but I get zero feedback from my brake pedals). I have no other option but to move my brake point a little further back.

take what i saw with a grain of salt too, when i say at the 80 meter mark, it's ofc an approximation. ;)

I got a G27 and afaik it's very similar to a G25 so don't think you need to look for the difference there.

something not mentioned yet here is your braking method which makes a huge difference. I find that if I stomp on the brakes and keep 'em fully depressed untill total release for entering the corner (like proper F1 drivers do if you look at the hud on onboards), I have to brake a fair bit earlier than when I do 'brake stomp, slight lift, other stomp, gentle liftoff - enter corner'. The latter method gains me at least 20 meters i can brake later in heavy braking zones.

Manual gears also help massively in reducing your braking distances as the quicker downshifts than on auto give you added engine braking.

Hope that makes sense, I'm working on getting hotlap vids out with pedal cams so you'll be able to see better what I mean.
 
Many thanks all, after ive done some work today ill have a crack and post the VID, ive just bought a new case to pack my PC up with on Tuesday, State Holiday here on Monday so can send my pc and wheel via UPS. oviously the packages will me maked 'personal relocation stuff'. just not to piss the warehouse guys off.

the new case [SIZE=+2]HAF X[/SIZE] (RC-942-KKN1)
top1.jpg


Thanks again, i feel slightly more positive today although i did fall from my roof space whilst getting my effects from there, so my arm is giving me some greif, thought id broken it last night and had a man cry.





IMG-20110303-000421.jpg
 

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