Authorised Vendor TrueBrake Brake Pedal Mod for Logitech G27/G29/G920

Hi, mine arrived today but I have a bit of an issue

It's plugged into a thrust master t300 through an adapter.

When I start Windows up everything seems fine but every few minutes Windows losses the whole wheel and pedals, then immediately re detects them but sets the wheel off on its resync again

This crashes whatever game I'm playing.

I'd never given a thought to whether it would work with a t300. Is this likely to be the cause of my issues?
 
That sounds like something is shorting to ground. Does it occur if you don't use the pedals and just have everything plugged in? My initial suspicion would be something got pinched on re-assembly as it's easy for the loom to get displaced
 
That sounds like something is shorting to ground. Does it occur if you don't use the pedals and just have everything plugged in? My initial suspicion would be something got pinched on re-assembly as it's easy for the loom to get displaced

Thanks. Yes it can happen when I'm doing nothing, bit seems more likely to happen when I'm braking hard.

I'll take it all apart again today. Didn't have the heart to do it yesterday as getting the pedals out of the rig and back in is more work than taking the pedals apart!!

I was a bit worried about shorts. The instructions said something about using a double sided sticky thing to stick the wire socket down but there wasn't one in the box and I had nothing to hand so it is kind of floating.
 
Didn't have the heart to do it yesterday as getting the pedals out of the rig and back in is more work than taking the pedals apart!!
Ha, yeah, I hear you! I ended up taking the pedals out and mounting them directly onto my rig when I was fiddling with different springs and stuff.
 
So looks like I've sorted it. It was a short.

Looks like the plug that had the the metal connectors sticking out of it had drifted over and was resting against the metal housing of the brake pedal.

So I guess if two of those metal connectors made contact with the metal housing at the same time then pop.

The instructions said to secure that plug but the double sided sticky tape they mentioned was not in the box.

I guess the instructions were out of date as they didn't mention the different sized buffers or the metal end thing that has to replace the plastic one in the housing.

Anyway I dug out sooner insulating tape, secured the plug and stuck some to the housing and it appears to have done the trick

IMG_20200823_114555.jpg


Thanks for the pointer! @GeekyDeaks.
 
I have to say I haven't noticed any positive change as yet.

I did have a nixim spring mod in there already so maybe there was less room for improvement compared to the stock pedal.

Also I'd had it for years and was very used to it so it might take a little while to adapt but right now I'm about a second a lap away from the times I was posting before I installed the mod.
 
Ordered mine today, I hope it will make a difference as these pedals are utter s*#@

It's definitely an upgrade over the standard. Have mine installed about 3 weeks now. I found it has improved my non abs car control and immersion alot. I'm only sim racing 6 months so there wasn't a whole lot of muscle memory to unlearn. I was only starting to properly get to grips with the 'odd' g29 brake pedal.
 
I found it has improved my non abs car control and immersion alot.
Do you still have your pedals connected to the wheelbase? The reason I ask is because I recently did a DIY version of the Leo Bodnar adapter with an Arduino and I was genuinely surprised at the difference it made. I don't know if it was the greater resolution (8bit vs 10bit) or the removal of the 'kink' the firmware applies (maybe a bit of both?), but in heavy braking zones it meant I was no longer gambling if I would make it.
 
Do you still have your pedals connected to the wheelbase? The reason I ask is because I recently did a DIY version of the Leo Bodnar adapter with an Arduino and I was genuinely surprised at the difference it made. I don't know if it was the greater resolution (8bit vs 10bit) or the removal of the 'kink' the firmware applies (maybe a bit of both?), but in heavy braking zones it meant I was no longer gambling if I would make it.

Ye they are still plugged into the wheel base. Didn't notice any kink, but i wasn't looking for one either! The pedal travel is maybe 1/3 of the stock so i'd guess the resolution is going to do better.
 
The pedal travel is maybe 1/3 of the stock so i'd guess the resolution is going to do better.

Looking at the effort gone into the design, I'd be happy to place real money on the fact that Rob took significant effort to engineer a solution that still provided the same voltage drop as a full press of the pedal. I certainly did the same with my DIY project. The problem is that the ADC in the G29 is not great, so you get something like 70-80 discrete values out rather than 256 and then once you hit about 75-80% of the brake range, the sensitivity to voltage drop (i.e. pressing the pedal harder) doubles making that last 25% or so really tricky to modulate.

I'd recommend checking out the Leo Bodnar adapter, or if you like to tinker I can give you the details of how I hooked mine up via an Arduino.
 
Looking at the effort gone into the design, I'd be happy to place real money on the fact that Rob took significant effort to engineer a solution that still provided the same voltage drop as a full press of the pedal. I certainly did the same with my DIY project. The problem is that the ADC in the G29 is not great, so you get something like 70-80 discrete values out rather than 256 and then once you hit about 75-80% of the brake range, the sensitivity to voltage drop (i.e. pressing the pedal harder) doubles making that last 25% or so really tricky to modulate.

I'd recommend checking out the Leo Bodnar adapter, or if you like to tinker I can give you the details of how I hooked mine up via an Arduino.

I paired the truebrake with the leo bodnar not to long after installing the truebrake and getting it all calibrated... OMG what an epic difference from life with an upgraded spring bushing, and over the original rubber brick!
 
Will this mod work as normal if connected to a Thrustmaster wheelbase with their DB9 PEDALS T.RJ12 adapter?
 
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It is a huge improvement over stock spring or a mod spring (mine snapped). It now feels more like a real pedal. It measures pressure which is superior to the pots on stock pedal. I highly recommend it. I used it with Bodnar cable without issue.

It is a quality piece and uses a Bourn pot that have been around since the 70s. You can see where you money goes. During this crisis I like the fact they did not decide to skimp and waited for Bourn to supply them again to continue delivery. I had to wait but it is well worth it.
 
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I'm using the Brake Mod for a little over 2 months now ,and i have to say it's absolutly fantastic.
After using a 'floppy' pedal for some 30 years i decided to upgrade my aging G25 brake pedal and again,it's fantastic.
Took me a little time to get comfi with it,but it's better then it ever was.
Still have to try that Bodnar cable thingie though.
Although i already changed the standard spring in the g25 for a firmer spring,this is so much better.
Thx you for this great piece of hardware.
 
I need to hurry up and finish my handbrake based around this.. I was steaming ahead on it but missed the boat on a batch so by the time I got it I was on other projects! Once I finish it though, I'll surely post it here and maybe the relevant print files and a parts list etc. Imo this is a more practical solution than a loadcell or hydraulic for a handbrake.

To that end, have you guys considered developing this into standalone handbrake? A lot of folks would be interested in one regardless of what pedals they use.
 

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